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AMBLING REMINISCENCES 






•of 



A RESIDENCE ABROAD 



ENGLAND— GUERNSEY. 



■BY- 



1 



J. L. PEYTON, 



AUTHOR OF "THE AMERICAN CRISIS," "OVER THE ALLEGHANIES AND 
ACROSS THE PRAIRIES," "HISTORY OF AUGUSTA CO.,VA , ETC., ETC. 



l Much have I seen and known ; cities of men 
And manners, climates, councils, governments." 

— Tennyson. 



STAUNTON, VIRGINIA : 

S. M. YOST & SON, PUBLISHERS. 

MDCCCLXXXVIII. 



[All Rights Reserved.] 



fc 






ITBB UBRARY 
OF CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON 



TABLE OF CONTENTS: 

CHAPTER I. 



CHAP PER II. 

l'iie Dark Side of London Life— The Social Dregs 12- 27 

CHAPTER in. 
The Kew Gardens and Richmond Park — Ruminations over some of 

John Bull's Peculiarities ... 28 39 

CHAPTER IV. 
Further Experiences of Richmond — Gypsies — John, Earl Russell, &c. 40 — 4X 

CHAPTER V. 
Windsor Castle, Past and Present — George IV — The Lawless Lords 

of Other Days— The Royal Stables— The Parks, &c 48— 59 

CHAPTER VI. 
The Inauguration of the Second World's Fair in London— The Fine 
Art Department — American Exhibition — Letter to the "Times" 
— Nevv-Made Friends 59 — 71 

CHAPTER VII. 
Letter to the "Times," referred to in Previous Chapter — Gladstone, 

Bright &c, &c 72— 76 

CHAPTER VIII. 

'The Shaw Farm of Prince Albert — English Agriculture — Stock 
Breeding, &c.,— Political Influence of the Landlords — Duke 

of Somerset * . . . . 77 — 80 

CHAPTER IX. 

Hampton Court — Mons. Assolant — Cardinal .volsley 86 — 101 

CHAPTER X. 
Harrow-on-the Hill — Byron', Early Days — Hampstead Heath — Ru- 
ral Sports — Kissing in thj Ring, Highgate, &c, 101 — 1 16 

CHAPTER XL 
A London Law Court — The English on America — The Duke of 
Somerset — The Land Laws, &c , — The Courts of Queen's 
Bench and Exchequer — Nomination of Sheriffs — Lord Mayor's 
Banquets— The Right Honorable William Cubitt, M. P., Lord 
Mayor of London — A Village Graveyard — Curious Epitaphs. 117 — 130 

CHAPTER XII. 
Sanitary Science — House and Town Sewerage — Its Influence on 

Health and Longevity 131 — '4 2 

CHAPTER XIII. 
The Royal Mint — A Distinguished Man and a Club Cub— Sir John 

Shelley— The Illusions of History 1 4j— 1 5° 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIV. 
The Derby Day— British Love of Sport— The Popularity of the Turf 

— The Celebrated Racer Eclipse 151 160 

CHAPTER XV. 
.Dover— Fashionable Society on the Seaside — The past and Present 

— : Dangers on the Old Road !6o 167 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Dover — The Cinque Ports — Ancient Customs — Walmer Castle- 
Deal— Death of the Duke of Wellington— The Middle Age 
Monks — Religious Intolerance. ■ 168 176 

CHAPTER XVII. 
Folkestone— Club Life— Martello Towers— Shorncliff Camp and the 
Organization of the British Army — Visit to a Country House— 
Lord Ellenborough — Etiquette, &c , * 176—184 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
Visit to a Country House— Lord Ellenborough— Matters of Etiquette 

— Osmond Priaulx — Tourists 18 4 jgg 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Romney Marsh and Dungenees— The Military Canal— Napoleon 
—Plans for the Invasion of England — The Origin of English 
Lighthouses— A Type of the Modern British Politician 189—199 

CHAPTER XX. 

From Folkestone by Dover, Deal and Canterbury to London — The 

Cathedral— The " 'Ashes' ' of Kings— The Fate of Sovereigns, &c. 200—208 

CHAPTER XXI 
Chatham— Faversham— Rochester— Sir Francis Doyle— Gads' Hill 
— Cobham Hall — Mss Letters of Sir John Peyton, Governor of 
the Tower and of the Island of Jersey — Edmond Beales The 
Reformer 208—217 

CHAPTER XXII. 
Seven Oaks — Montreal — The Amhersts — Sir Philip Sidney— Knoll 
Castle— Showmen— Towbridge Wells — Battle Abbey — Return 
to London 217 231 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

The Anglo-Norman Isle of Guernsey — Literature &c.,— The Sport- 
ing Club— The Institutions of the Island, &c— Hauteville 
House, Victor Hugo, Private Theatricals, &c. — Public Lec- 
tures, &c. — St. John's Readings — Lectures on Electricity — 
Workingmen's Association — Remarks by Colonel J. L. Peyton — 
Physical Features, Former State, &c. — The Island One Hun- 
dred Years Ago — Religion, Past and Present, &c 231 — 268 

APPENDICES. 

Appendix A. — Trees— Lines by Georges Metevier 269 27o 

Appendix B. — Letters of Dr. Benjamin Franklin 271 297 

Appendix C. — Prominent Guernseymen since 1600 298 






RAMBLING REMINISCENCES, 



CHAPTER I. 



LONDON PAST AND PRESENT. 



On the 22nd of November, 186 1, after a boisterous voyage 
across the South Atlantic from Charleston, S. C, by the Burmuda 
and Azore Islands, in the Confederate man-of-war, Nashville, 
Capt. Robert W. Pegram, commanding, we found ourselves 
comfortably ensconced in a West-end (London) Hotel. — 
Every one has heard of London and its November fogs — 
Few Americans know what either exactly is. Daniel Web- 
ster, after his return to the United States, was asked what 
he thought of London, and replied, "I have not yet done wonder- 
ing." This language gives expression to the sentiment with which 
it has always inspired us, and we are sure we shall never cease to 
wonder at London or a genuine London fog, dim, dreary, sullen 
as it is, particularly in November, when it is a vile, double distilled 
fog of the most intolerable kind. Winter has already scattered 
his shafts, and this penetrating fog comes like a demon in search 
of the dead strewn in town and country, through forest and field. 
It is cold, it is wet, it' is dark, it shrouds all things in a ghostly 
gloom, a smoke like darkness. But for the gas lights it would be 
black as the ninth plague of Egypt at mid-day. Looking out of 
our window in Trafalgar Square, the morning after our arrival, 
we saw the town wrapped in a vast winding sheet of gray mist 
and yellow smoke. It was eleven o'clock, still there was no sign of 
day ; gas blazed in street lamps and shop windows. The smoke 
was thick, the mist thicker, the sky black ; few persons were 
abroad ; fewer cabs, and the drivers of these few shouted appar- 
ently *at the darkness through which they slowly groped their 
way. About one o'clock the fog for a few moments cleared up, 
and seemed sneaking off into the country. The blackened sky 
became yellow, and the sun loomed as through a glass darkly. — 
Our spirits were reviving when the sun quickly covered himself 
again with the clouds of night and sailed unseen across the sky. 

Stiff in every limb, with tender feet and heavy head, the effects 



2 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

of a winter voyage across the ocean, a tour round our chamber 
contented us on this our first day in the great metropolis. Look- 
ing out on the cloudy, muggy, dark and wretched streets, strange- 
ly illuminated with flickering gas-lights, if the writer did not for 
the first time in his life, wish himself another man, he certainly 
wished himself in another place. The vitality of our youth was 
not to be quenched, however, by such surroundings, and substi- 
tuting the pnilosophy of maturer years for any depressing heavi- 
ness under which we were suffering, we soon plucked up spirits 
and m a few weeks commenced those explorations which have 
left us ever since, like Mr. Webster, "wondering." 

Let us take a glance at this grim old metropolis : There is no 
romance about the London of the present ; tourists have rummaged 
it from end to end— it is known the world over from Belgravia to 
Bethnel Green, from Camberwell to Campdentown. Yet it still in 
terests and fills the stranger with astonishment. The more he knows 
of it, the more hewishes to know. Widely understood as it mav be 
the number familiar with that great capital is infinitesimal when 
compared with the sedentary world who are almost totally igno- 
rant of all but its name. This is some excuse for re-telling the 
old story of its wonders and mysteries. 

The stranger in London is bewildered at its extent, its gloomy 
grandeur, its grim magnificence He sees before him a labyrin- 
thine confusion of streets, straight, broad and spacious, narrow, 
crooked and filthy, according to locality, and intersecting each 
other at every possible angle. With a correct general idea of the 
metropolis, gathered from a chart, he cannot find his way from 
one quarter to another without the aid of a guide, or even retain his 
knowledge of the points of the compass, unless he remains in the 
vicinity of such leading thoroughfares as the Strand, Oxford Street 
or Piccadilly. He may spend weeks with all the ardour of an 
explorer perambulating the side-walks and visiting the principal 
objects of curiosity, and still have an imperfect idea of the place 
1 he mass of highways and by ways is still as intricate as a Chinese 
puzzle, though during the last decade large sums have been ex- 
pended m straightening old and opening new avenues for the pur- 
pose of simplifying the system of streets, and more readily ac- 
commodating the traffic. y 

The city of London proper commences at Temple Bar and 
covers an area of little more than one square mile, and contains a 
population of 111,784 persons only. As the gateway is without 
beauty and obstructs the most crowded of London's thorough- 
fares, its retention is a striking illustration of the conservative 
character of the English mind, of the tenacity with which our an- 
cestors cling to whatever is old. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 3 



Passing this so-called barrier, we are in the city proper. It is 
not the city of former times, full of densely inhabited houses and 
fine residences, belonging- to the chief merchants, the landed gen- 
try and the nobility — the great landlords of the country ; the city, 
as it once was, of small and narrow streets, of mean lath and plas- 
ter houses on rickety wooden frames and of all imaginable sizes 
and shapes ; the city of badly cleaned and foully smelling streets, 
and of desolating plagues bursting forth from time to time and 
carrying off myriads of people. On the contrary, it is the city 
par excellence of the trade, business and commerce of the modern 
world. The city of the Bank, the Mint and the exchange of 
Lombard Street, Cornhill and Mincing Lane, of warehouses and 
Counting rooms, of vaults and offices, in a word, of those great 
commercial houses whose extended operations embrace the entire 
alobe. The city where the Bankers, brokers, merchants, stock 
jobbers, money-changers, Jew and Gentile, most do love to con- 
gregate, and where they regularly cast up the accounts of the 
world. . 

Fleet street and the Strand are the great arteries of the city, 
and, passing by Temple Bar from Charing Cross, extend to Lud- 
gate Hill, where St. Paul's rears its towering front. Here making 
the circuit of the Cathedral and thence branching into Cheapside, 
Poultry, Cornhill and Cannon streets. These are a few only of 
the great arteries through which the tide of population and busi- 
ness flows. Thousands of others in all directions are daily 
choaked with vehicles and myriads of human beings who swarm 
like bees on every spot. 

Around this focus or centre of business have grown up, with 
incredible rapidity, the different quarters known as Brompton, 
Hammersmith, St. John's Wood, etc., which with the "city" con- 
stitute what is known as the Metropolis, or the Metropolitan dis- 
trict, spreading over an area 18 miles long by 14 wide, and con- 
taining a population of about 3,800,000 souls. This is the monster 
London which has been so well styled a province covered with 
houses. The houses are built almost entirely of brick and are gen- 
erally inferior in size, architectural ornament and imposing appear- 
ance. They inspire no idea, indeed, that they are the palaces of the 
rich and great. The humid atmosphere, causing the smoke to settle 
down upon the dwellings, soon changes their color, the brick be- 
coming of a dingy gray, the whole assuming a dreary and dismal 
appearance. Buckingham Palace, the residence of the Queen, and 
on which vast sums have been lavished, during the reign of George 
IV and since, is not equal to many of the country seats of the nobil- 
ity, and St. James' Palace, where the Royal Drawing-rooms or re- 
ceptions are held, and which was the town residence of the royal 



4 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

family until the accession of Queen Victoria, is alow, red brick 
building resembling a lying-in hospital, for which purpose it was 
originally intended. Excepting St. Paul's Cathedral, Westminster 
Abbey, the New Parliament Houses, Somerset House, the British 
Museum, the University of London, the principal club houses, and 
some of the fine old historical residences, such as Northumberland 
and Chesterfield houses and the new hotels, there is little in the way 
of architectural beauty or symmetry of which London can boast. 
It is a monotonous wilderness of brick and mortar, where the 
stranger sees little evidence, save upon stated occasions of solemn 
processions, of the existence (fan opulent aristocracy and brilliant 
court. The paucity of fine private residences in this great city, 
the seat of the wealthiest of commercial empires, is striking, and 
can only be explained upon the hypothesis that the money which 
would embellish any other capital is elsewhere expended. And 
this is, indeed, the fact. In England the proprietorship of landed 
property carries with it greater dignity and influence than in any 
other country. Hence the nobleman directs his attention special- 
ly to the improvement of his country estates. On these he spends 
the chief part of his time, his talents and capital in making agri- 
cultural experiments, in rearing fine stock, and in growing large 
crops. Here, if he belongs to the old nobility, he keeps up & a 
baronial castle or a stately hall, dispensing a princely hospitality. 
If he is ot the class of new rich, he builds a spacious mansion and 
endeavors to rival "my lords." These large estates have grown 
out of the feudal system and the law of primogeniture, which Dr. 
Johnson rather justified,. because "that it makes but one fool in a 
family," and constitutes one of the peculiar features of England — 
Among the most magnificent we remember to have seen, during 
a long residence in the country, may be mentioned in passing— 
those of the Marquis of Breadalbane, whose property extends^on 
a straight line from his mansion a distance of ioo miles, and the 
Duke of Sutherland's, which covers a whole county in Scotland, 
extending from sea to sea. The Duke of Norfolk's park in Sus- 
sex, is fifteen miles in circuit, and the Island of Lewis, containing 
500,000 acres, is owned by a single individual ! The process of 
absorption is still going on, the larger domains growing larger and 
larger as the number of proprietors decrease. ' A hundred years 
ago there were 250,000 proprietors in England and now there are 
only 30,000. This is a great evil certainly and must be remedied. 
Urgent necessity there is of nationalizing the land, as the present 
state of affairs both in England and Ireland show. Against this 
increasing evil John Bright, the late J. S. Mill and the Manchester 
party generally, have raised their voices and are proceeding to 
"agitate" the country. 






RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



The English nobility and the landed gentry only know Lon- 
don during the season. What the metropolitan mansions lack, 
however, in exterior ornament is more than compensated by the 
expensive and luxurious style of their interior decorations and 
furniture. In the inside, everything is of a sumptuous and elegant 
description. Nothing is wanting which refinement, taste and cul- 
tivation can suggest or gold purchase. Costly paintings adorn 
the walls — they are often more costly than meritorious. Every 
niche has its statue. A simple list of the houses of the principal 
nobility and gentry where valuable collections of art treasures 
may be seen by any one taking the trouble to make application, 
would cover pages. The finest of these is Stafford House (St. 
James' Park) which was built by the Duke of York, second son of 
George III. It is at present owned and occupied by the Duke of 
Sutherland, who is little else than a titled booby. In Bridgewater 
House, the residence of the Earl of Ellesmere, the collection of 
paintings at the death of the Duke of Bridgewater in 1803 were 
valued at $750,000. The collection now contains three hundred 
and twenty -two paintings of the estimated value of $1,500,000. 
We give these figures because the English are a people whose 
imaginations are not transported by figures of rhetoric. They are a 
people with whom, not excepting glory itself, everything ends in 
money * If offered to the competition of connoisseurs this collec- 
tion would doubtless fetch a larger sum. In no country in Eu- 
rope are the arts so patronized and encouraged by the wealthy 
classes. 

It is impossible for the stranger, amidst the confusion produced 
by the multiplicity of objects and images that dance before his 
eyes and glide away, to take a comprehensive view of the whole 
capital. A description of each quarter and all the wonders pre- 
sented to his contemplation, would exceed our limits — require 
volumes. We shall content ourself with giving the result of a 
coup (Veil of the capital from the most commanding spot in the 
city, the summit of St. Paul's Cathedral. Beyond question this 

*The British government votes to her victorious generals and officers of in- 
ferior grade, under guise of public testimonials and swords of honor, magnificent 
pensions and huge sums of ready money. After Sir Garnett Woolsey's suc- 
cessful campaign in Ashantee land, he was rewarded by a lump sum of 
^25. 000 sterling, and on his return from Egypt raised to the peerage, with prob- 
ably a further sum of money by way of supplying him the means to keep up the 
state and dignity of his Barony. Lord de Sausmarez, after his brilliant naval 
victories, was voted $10,000 a year for his life and that of his son and grandson. 
These are only a few instances which occur to memory among those whose 
families are known to the writer. All the world knows the large grants in the 
way of money, lands and houses made by Parliament to such heroes as Marl- 
borough and Wellington. 



6 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

is the most eligible position for seeing the metropolis, and the 
stranger no sooner mounts to the dizzy heights than he is dazzled 
and bewildered by the extent and variety of objects spread out 
before his eyes — one illimitable expanse of streets, courts, alleys, 
squares and parks, alive with restless activity and teeming mil- 
lions. In the section immediately surrounding this centre, all the 
financial transactions of the country are carried on, principally in 
Lombard street, the resort of the bankers, and Capel Court, the 
haunt of the money brokers and stock jobbers. Here, beneath 
the surface of the streets, the private bankers have their vaults, 
which with those of the Mint and the Bank of England contain 
the treasure of the Kingdom. In the circumjacent streets the 
wholesale business is conducted. In a word, it is the heart or 
core of that busy world of London, belonging to the toiling mil- 
lions, and in which a drone is vara avis in terris. 

Sweeping across the southern horizon the eye takes in those 
populous districts to the south of the river, Camberwell, Lambeth 
and Peckham. These are crowded with artizans and the laboring 
classes generally, and it is from the lofty chimnies of this region 
that thick volumes of smoke constantly arise and spread like a 
pall over the scene. To the east appear the lofty spires and 
gilded domes of Greenwich, surrounded by the deep green of the 
wooded heights, while midway between the Northern and South- 
ern limits of the city the river flows. This is crowded with forests 
of masts, smoke-stacks and funnels far as the eye can reach. 
Along the Thames the eye wanders from Westminster Bridge to 
Victoria Docks, a distance of more than ten miles, which com- 
prehends the entire line connected with the harbour and the naval 
and commercial operations of the kingdom. All the streets and 
wharves on the line are crowded with vehicles carrying off the 
goods which have been landed, or bringing down cargoes for 
vessels to be freighted. The busy crowd which gathers here is 
entirely different from that seen near the Bank and Exchange, 
and is composed of another class of those enterprising men who 
contribute so much by their labor to extend the commerce and 
add to the wealth and glory of England. This is the peculiar 
haunt of shippers and importers. About midway in this line 
stands that huge edifice known as Somerset House, where all ac- 
counts of the Kingdom are audited and affairs connected with the 
internal revenues of the Empire are settled, and on a line with it, 
but further down the river, is the Custom House, the never failing- 
barometer of the national prosperity, on which fleet after fleet 
bears down and whose ponderous cranes are perpetually at work 
transfering to the gaunt and dreary looking ware houses, which 
cover this quarter, the immense stores contributed by the world 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 7 

to the wealth and energy of the British people. Also the coal 
exchange and Fish Mongers Hall, the latter the headquarters of 
one of the most ancient and wealthy guilds in the Kingdom. 
Here also is "Shameless Billingsgate," the famous fish market, 
the resort of drunken sailors and oyster wenches so celebrated for 
its vulgar wrangles and intolerable stenches. 

On the same inclined plane but higher up the river, in striking 
contrast to the Fish Market, are those quiet and delightful gar- 
dens extending in sloping greens to the water's edge which be- 
long to the inner and middle Temple Inns of Court, wherein a 
large portion of practising barristers have chambers, wherein 
also, as in colleges and universities, so many young men live to- 
gether upon terms of easy freedom, and are supposed to be en- 
gaged in the study of law, but are in too many cases engrossed 
with the pursuits of pleasure. Lower dov\n again stands that re- 
markable monument of antiquity, the Tower, the chief object of 
curiosity with the majority of strangers. 

"The Tower of Julius, London's lasting shame, 
With many a foul and midnight murder fed." 

This ancient fortress cannot be visited without awakening in 
the mind the recollection of memorable scenes and tragic stories. 
Hard by is that lofty monument erected in remembrance of the 
great fire of 1666, of which Pope said, in allusion to the inscrip- 
tion it bears, accusing the Catholics of burning this Protestant 
city, 

"London's high column, pointing to the skies, 
Like a tall bully, lifts its head and lies." 

On this line also, are found those extensive docks constructed upon 
a scale to accommodate the shipping of the world and which are 
without a parallel among the public works of this or any other 
country, and near by, burrowing beneath the bed of the river, is the 
Thames tunnel, that wonderful triumph of modern engineering skill. 
Diverted from its original purpose it is now used by the Chatham 
and Dover railway, numerous trains daily passing through it from 
the two sides of the river. 

In the opposite direction, two miles from St. Paul's, is Trafalgar 
Square, and the Royal Academy. Sir Robert Peel once declared 
in a moment of patriotic enthusiasm, that this was ''The finest site 
in Europe." The most important work of art in this square is 
the column dedicated to Nelson, which rises alone in solitary ma- 
jesty, with its base at once decorated and guarded by the bronze 
lions of Sir Edward Landseer. Here the famous West-end begins, 
in which are grouped the Parliament Houses, the Abbey of West- 
minster, the Royal Palaces, the Home and Foreign offices, the 



8 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Headquarters of the Army, the Admiralty and the Government 
offices generally. Also the Club Houses, the residences of Court 
retainers and all those most distinguished for rank and wealth, 
and who make up the fashionable world. This is the quarter 
whence issue those endless lines of showy equipages which roll 
with stately grandeur along Rotten Row through Hyde Park and 
Kensington Gardens. 

To the north of Hyde Park lies Tyburnia, a handsomely built 
modern city, principally occupied by successful merchants and 
bankers, the noveaux riche ; all those who are undergoing, in the 
significant language of the club houses, the transitorial state be- 
tween commerce and fashion. Tyburnia is a sort of Hades or 
purgatory where aspirants for Belgraviaand Mayfairare prepared 
to enjoy those Elysian fields. 

The health, beauty and comfort of the West-end are increased 
by three grand parks, the largest of which, Hyde Park with Ken- 
sington Gardens, contains 688 acres. In the district, popularly 
known as Bayswater and Nottinghill, there are likewise many 
noble squares, and it is in reference to these squares and parks 
which, indeed, exist in every quarter of the metropolis, that it has 
been truly said, they are the nostrils and the lungs of London. 

There are few meritorious statues in the public places of Lon- 
don ; a peculiarity due, the Londoner will tell you, to the English 
climate, which quickly destroys such works of art when exposed 
to its action, but which a stranger is more disposed to attribute to 
a want of appreciation of the fine arts — sculpture more especially. 

Notwithstanding its extraordinary size, the health of London is 
better, as the bills of mortality show, than that of any large city in 
Europe. This fact is rightly attributed to the excellent, but still 
inadequate, system of drainage. The rapid increase of the Me- 
tropolis has made the subject of drainage one of growing difficulty 
and embarrassment, especially since it became evident that the 
sewers could no longer be discharged into the river. Under this 
system the river itself was but a vast sewer, and the banks were 
all but insupportable. During the summer the air was filled with 
noxious vapors and fatal fevers generated, notwithstanding the 
temporary expedients resorted to for correcting the evil, such as 
scattering lime and other disinfecting agents on the water and over 
the slimy shores. It was the pressing importance of this question 
which led, in 1858, to the formation of a vast system of sewers, or 
subterranean tunnels, 12 feet wide and 9J- feet high, to run by the 
sides of the river to a point 15 miles distant, where they discharge 
into the river at high tide, that the ebb tide may remove the refuse. 
The total length of the great receiving sewers is 72 miles, and the 
estimated cost $15,900000. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



From this coup d'eil we gather the fact that London so far ex- 
ceeds the capitals of other countries that it may be regarded as, 
par excellence, the metropolis of" the world. It is not only the 
most populous, but most wealthy, if not the most enterprising. 
The population is greater than that of the kingdoms of Hanover 
or Westphalia, and nearly double that of Greece. It is nearly as 
great as that of the City and State of New York, the most popu- 
lous of the United States, and little less than that of Scotland. 
London may be likened then to a kingdom concentrated upon the 
territory of a very small province. Nowhere, in such a space, 
can there be found gathered such vast interests, so much luxury, 
so much misery, so much pleasure, such sorrow, so much wealth, 
such poverty ! 

A retrospective glance at its mutations will not be uninteresting. 
Little over two and a half centuries ago, at the accession of James 
I, the population was 150,000- less than half the population of a 
dozen modern cities within a day's journey of Pall Mall. It had 
increased to only 675,000 in 1700, and in 1801 had just reached 
860,000. The progress has since been more rapid, and in 1870, 
as we have seen, the population exceeded three and a half mil- 
Queen Elizabeth, and subsequently James I and Charles I, were 
alarmed at the increase of the inhabitants, and sought to retard 
the progress of the population. By royal proclamations Elizabeth 
prohibired the erection, within three miles of the city gates, of any 
new house or tenement "where no former house hath been known 
to have been." James I and Charles I, issued similar proclama- 
tions, the latter declaring that if larger it could "neither be gov- 
erned nor fed." Charles was perfectly correct in this opinion. 
But for the invention of steam, London could not be fed at this 
day, and to govern it requires an army of 10,000 policemen. In 
the time of Charles I the city was without an organized police, and 
was the receptacle of thieves and robbers who stalked abroad in 
daylight, setting all authority at defiance. Nor was it lighted at 
night? nor supplied with water, nor indeed, any of the modern 
appliances for securing health, comfort or security ; and it is not 
surprising that royal minds should have been filled with misgiv- 
ings at the prospect of its increase. 

The Strand, in the time of Henry VIII, was merely a country 
road leading through green fields to Westminster, and was so 
full of ruts and holes that the King ordered it to be paved at the 
expense of the owners of the adjoining lands. The Churches ot 
St. Martin's-in-the field and St. Giles'-in-the-field were so called 
from having been originallv erected literally in the fields. During 
the reign of Elizabeth, when it was first rated, the Parish of bt. 



IO RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Martins contained only one hundred persons who were liable for 
poor rates. West of this was the open country, where now stands 
St. James, Piccadilly, Pall Mall, Regent Street and the West-end 
quarter. The present fashionable Mayfair was distinguished as a 
dairy farm, and the region of Dover street and Berkeley square 
was famous for game. Oxford street, then known as Tyburn 
road, lay through a country district, of which Pennant wrote about 
the middle of the last century: "I remember Oxford street a 
deep hollow road and full of sloughs, with here and there a rag- 
ged house the lurking place of cut throats; insomuch that I was 
never taken that way by night, in my hackney coach, to a worthy 
Uncles who gave me lodgings in George's street, but I went in 
dread the whole way." What a contrast to the brilliant Oxford 
street of to day. 

A hundred years ago the inhabitants of Kensington, intending 
to visit London during the evening, collected in large number's 
and marched in a body for defence and mutual protection The 
managers of theatres in Islington announced in their play-bills 
"A horse patrol will be sent in the new road to-night for the pro- 
tection of the nobility and gentry who go from the squares at the 
end of the town. It was not considered safe to cross Lincoln's 
Inn fields on a dark night, or Hounslow heath after dark The 
streets were badly lit with oil burners. So much so that links 
were carried before carnages and foot passengers as late as i?oq 
and these linkmen and boys were amongst the most numerous 
and disorderly classes of London. 

Bethnel Green and Spital-fields were in 1805 rural districts - 
Now they are probably the most populous districts of London 
and there are miles of spacious streets in even these, which are 
considered the most inferior town quarters. 

What is true of them is equally true of the districts south of the 
river, as far as Dulwich and Camberwell, now a den^e mass of 
human dwellings extending in all directions. In the 17th century 
this was simply a wild and unenclosed tract of semi-swamp land 
In the 17th century the river Fleet ran between Temple bar 
and Ludgate Hill., flowing into the Thames near Blackiriar's 
Bridge Barges sailed up this stream to discharge their cargoes 
at Holborn hill. In the course of time the Meet became a nui- 
sance, nothing more than an offensive sewer, and was covered in 
and is now one of the main underground drains. On the north' 
the present district oi Moorfields was simply what its name be- 
speaks, a moor or len. So was the present site of Finsbury which 
takes its name irom the Fens on which it is built and which were 
first drained in 1527. 

Few houses were built of brick previous to the great fire in 



RAMBLING REMINISCE^ 1 CES. II 

1666 ; there were some few built however between 1616 and 
1636. The most interesting of those are in Lincoln's Inn Fields, 
Covent Gardens, Great Queen street, St. Martin's lane and Al- 
derso-ate street. The best specimen of old English domestic arch- 
itecture in the city is Crosby Hall in Bishopsgate street, which was 
erected of stone and timber in the 15th century. When built it 
was considered the finest house in London, and is full of historic 
interest, being referred to by Shakespeare as the residence of 
Richard III. After the great fire, the city was rapidly rebuilt and 
extended westward, but as late as 1708 the papers spoke of Sir 
Robert Walpole when minister, thus : "The right Honorable 
Premier comes to town this day from Chelsea." It takes less 
time now to reach London from the sea coast at Brighton or 

Hastings! 

Notwithstanding the already gigantic proportions of London, it 
is annually increasing at the rate of 80,000, and for many miles 
after leaving what is technically known as the Metropolis, it is dif- 
ficult to define where the country begins and the town ends. The 
everlasting tide of brick and mortar rolls on, covering fields, parks, 
towns and villages. Silent villages, sleepy hamlets are obliterated 
by masonry ; fields and parks are mapped out into squares, cres- 
cents and streets, shops, public houses, cab and omnibus stands, 
school houses, churches and suburban residences appear, and the 
country becomes incorporated into the town— an embodied part 
of the great city. 

There seems to be no limit to its growth, while the country 
advances in wealth and prosperity, unless it be presented in the 
obstacle to which Charles I. alluded -the inability of all means of 
transportation to bring the population food. This difficulty may 
paralyze its growth ; it does not appear that any other is likely to 
do so. Good dwelling houses for the poor, spacious streets, 
squares -and parks, an abundant supply of pure water, thorough 
drainage, will keep off plague and pestilence— -can railways and 
steamboats prevent famine ? 

Having given the reader, briefly, a tolerable idea of London, 
without encumbering the account with figures, we shall have occa- 
sion in subsequent pages to make him acquainted with the metrop- 
olis in other aspects, and give him a glimpse of its social condition 
and of some of the subdivisions of its mixed population, their 
modes of life, manners and customs and actual condition. 

We will not sav that those who have not seen London have 
seen nothing, but they have failed to see a great and curious spec- 
tacle. Under its one aspect of magnificence it is without a rival 
in modern times, anc^ in its other of degredation, poverty and 
crime it undoubtedly surpasses all other cities -ancient or modern. 



12 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

In the West- end, the rallying point of its rank and wealth, it is 
gayer, brighter, more resplendent with fashion, glitter and gold 
than even Paris, and in its remoter districts sad and dull without 
a parallel. Whatever pretense of life lingers about these regions 
is highly suggestive of still-life, if not of death itself, which renders 
them more truly appalling, more ghastly than Pompeii. 



CHAPTER II. 



THE DARK SIDE OF LONDON LIFE. — THE SOCIAL DREGS. 



Having in the preceding chapter presented a general idea of out- 
side London, we shall introduce the reader in this to some interior 
views. He will not see in them the most pleasing, interesting or 
popular aspects of metropolitan life, but there are plenty of writers 
who riot in descriptions of the beau monde, by which we mean 
the world of fashion, for neither wit nor learning are elements in 
it. On the other hand the number is small indeed, of those who 
are willing to take the less attractive, not to say revolting part, of 
portraying scenes where vice wears no veil and decency forever 
blushes. Let it be our part, at least, to touch upon them. 

During a long residence in London, the author gathered the 
information embodied in this chapter from various sources and by 
personal visits to the haunts of the destitute, and the dens of 
thieves. He was sometimes accompanied by a clergyman of the 
District, but more frequently by a brace of well armed policemen. 
The scenes disclosed to him deepened his convictions that London 
forms no exception to the rule that sunshine may fall upon the 
earth and bless it, but the shadow is ever at its side. To know 
London you must see both sides of the picture —its dens of misery 
its regions of squalid poverty and perennial suffering, as well as 
its West end mansions and shops, its noble squares and extensive 
parks. Prominent as is the mighty Babylon of our day for its 
wealth and grandeur, it is equally disgraced by its exceptionable 
regions of poverty which excite pity, and of crime which awaken 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 13 

fear. While it is undeniably a pleasant thing to contemplate man 

in all the exaltation of his wisdom and virtue, it is also of service 

, to us to occasionally look into his obliquities and to distinctly re- 

I mark how great and portentious are his follies, his crimes and his 

sufferings. 

Penetrate into remote quarters, and you find behind the smil- 
ing exterior of West-end wealth and splendor, masses of misera- 
ble, over-crowded houses, immured," as it were, in close and nar- 
row streets, from which narrower alleys radiate, where the sun 
never peeps and broad daylight is never seen ; swarms of poverty 
stricken people, pale with grief and suffering, emaciated, toiling 
! men and women, by the side of beggars and thieves, and all 
maintaining a desperate struggle with want — literally fighting for 
I life. No belle, glittering with jewels, rolls in her coach to the 
Queen's Drawing room without startling the ear of dying poverty 
in some hovel of wretchedness and despair. No gaily dressed 
congregation reaches its fashionable church without encountering 
I the fumes of taprooms and gin palaces, and mixing with their 
1 crowd of squalid, drunken customers. Thus is exemplified the 
truth: 

" Wherever God erects a house of prayer, 
The Devil always builds a chapel there." 

I The Royal Palace has its disgusting back-ground of reeking 
! sinks, slums and hovels in Pimlico. The opera has its counter- 
part in the low, vice engendering penny theatre, and the balls of 
the aristocracy are set off by the costermonger's two-penny hop. 
The fine shops of Regent street and Piccadilly draw their supplies 
of silks and rich stuffs from the poverty stricken dens of Spital- 
fields. The gayest and most brilliant streets of the West-end are 
close upon St. Giles, the darkest London haunt of crime and 
misery. Hordes of beings rise every morning without as much 
food as will serve them through the day, and who derive a pre- 
carious existence by sweeping the crossings, selling matches, gath- 
ering bones or rags, riddling cinders out of dust holes, retailing 
apples or oranges, collecting and selling the refuse vegetables of 
the markets, running errands, and, worst of all, girls selling their 
perishing charms for the wherewithal to buy bread and meat. — 
The stranger dreams not of these things when sauntering through 
Piccadilly or Pall- Mall, where a beggar is rarely seen, and the 
panorama of which is but a successive procession of prosperous 
industry and superfluous wealth. The moral geologist of London 
however, can map out the localities of the different classes, each 
having its haunt, as clearly as the physical geologist does the 
chalk and clay, marl and gravel deposits of any given section of 



*4 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

country. Each of these localities is known to then). They can 
point in an instant to the retreat of the burglars, the shop lifters 
the coiners, the dog stealers, the pick-pockets, the garroters the 
murderers, the house burners, the hiding places of the infamous 
generally, where no policeman dare venture alone. The spots 
where are gathered the social dregs, the lees, the offscourings of 
he great city the Pariahs, outcasts and outlaws, whose hands like 
the hand of Ishmael,are against the world. 

Formerly one of the most notorious of ail these haunts was St. 
Oiles, one of Dickens' favorite resorts for studying low life and 
obtaining materials for his inimitable sketches. St. Giles was 
however broken up by the extension of Oxford street through its 
heart, The inhabitants did not cease to exist, and the army of 
beggars knackers, thieves and murderers, thus unhoused settled 
down and crammed themselves in the district about Saffron Hill 
and Smithfield, a region where are still seen, as in Hogarth's day, 
over gin sellers doors, "Drunk here for one penny, dead drunk 
for twopence, and clean straw for nothing." Not even is it safe 
tor the clergyman to enter this district without police attendance 
In some parts it is a huge bagnio, in others a thieves' caravansary • 
in others are ware-houses of stolen goods and manufacturies of 
decaying poisonous food; the whole district being a sink of nau- 
seating stenches and moral putridity. 

But it is not in such outlaying districts alone that masses of 
human beings are huddled together in filthy courts and alleys — 
1 he Royal Palace is close upon the sinks and stews of Pimlico 
the streets of bagnios and the dens of thieves who are the tenants 
of the Dean and Chapter oi Westminster. Eaton Square in 
famed Belgravia, closely adjoins one of the still worse drained and 
most squalid parts of the West end. All around Westminster 
Abbey are reeking rockeries, under the very noses of the law- 
givers of the land. This is equally true of the fashionable quarter 
of Regent street— it lies in the midst of rookeries, filled with hu- 
man beings for whom modern civilization and progress has done 
absolutely nothing. The largest and finest streets and quarters 
indeed London over, have their back ground of wretchedness In 
these favored localities the fine buildings are but screens for mis- 
ery behind them, which shocks the mind and from which men 
avert their gaze In too many cases industrious, hard working 
families are huddled together in a single room, a sitting room by 
day, and by night a bed-chamber. Many spots like A|ar's Town 
have been squatted upon, and it is found "impossible to remove the 
squalid inhabitants. The ground is undrained, houses foul the 
streets filthy, water scarce and a clean life impossible. It is the 
same case in the mmories, Shoreditch, Whitechapel, Wappino- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 15 

and in their antipodes Paddington, Bermondsey and Lambeth. — 
The disreputable and the criminal classes and the working people 
are environed with nuisances and live in dwellings which barely 
supply the most elementary wants of our being, and where the 
moral as well as the physical atmosphere is full of poison, espe- 
cially for the susceptible nature of youth. If there be goodness, 
generosity, nobility in any toiling inhabitant, it is poluted and 
cramped by the poison and penury of all around. But of these 
redeeming- qualities there is, we fear, but little. The majority of 
the resident families are drunken and destitute, and filth and im- 
morality abound to an extraordinary extent. 

In the districts occupied by the better class of laborers — the 
the porters, policemen and such like — there is likewise extreme 
poverty, Though their wages are high, so are their rents. Can 
any one wonder that rent troubles exist in England as well as Ire- 
land ? There is another drain upon them, the almost constant 
presence of sickness in their dwellings, and the want of medicines 
and medical advice. A few years ago, the philanthropic Lord 
Shaftsbury made a visit to one of the favored localities, as they 
are regarded, near Golden Squares, and thus describes it ; ''It 
is a quarter inhabited by the most respectable of the laboring- 
classes, They were all deeply sensible of the misery brought on 
them by the condition of their dwellings and the impossibility of 
keeping them tidy, and by the fetid smells to which even habit 
had not reconciled them. These families have each but one room, 
about twelve feet square, in which they sleep and live, and some 
in addition carry -on their trade. I found many of them full of 
steam, exhaling from clothes hung up across the room to dry, after 
having been washed, many of them in the same water, owing to 
its scarcity. In every family we heard of sickness and death ; 
some had lost two thirds hardly any less than one-half of their 
children. Their houses had been for the most part once inhabi- 
ted by separate families of some fortune, and were partitioned off 
into lodging rooms, at weekly rents, varying from is.6d for a very 
bad cellar, to 5 shillings for a large upper room. In no case had 
they any but an intermittent supply of water at the bottom of the 
house, which in some cases was kept in water butts of decaying 
wood. Some of these rooms were in overcrowded cow houses, 
where cows diseased by the badness of the air, supply the neigh- 
borhood with diseased milk, some close to slaughter nouses." 

From this description it is readily seen that the mortality must 
be frightful. Indeed it is said to exceed that of a well regulated 
hospital, and is far beyond any losses England sustains in Afghan 
and Zulu campaigns. Typhus fever is a constant denizen. What 
else, indeed, is possible when each small house is occupied on an 



l6 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

average by seventy ? The lessee who pays from /^20 to £30 
rent, sublets the rooms at from two to three hundred per cent, on 
the original rental. It is common for thirty and forty children to 
sleep in a single room 18x20 feet. These are the scenes of defile- 
ment and pestilence in which thousands of children are reared. 
Their only education is obtained in such homes and in the streets 
round about them. They are constant witnesses of drunkenness 
which grows out of this state of physical defilement, and thus be- 
come familiar with beastly scenes. 

From these dens and haunts issue the lawless, roaming and 
deserted children of the Metropolis, over fifty thousaud in number. 
One half of these dine out, living on garbage and sleeping under 
porticos, sheds, carts, the dry arches of bridges and viaducts, in 
out houses, saw pits, stair cases, in the open air, or in those cheap 
lodging houses where forty are placed in a small room 12x18, the 
floor of which is covered with straw, shavings or old rags, and 
where they pay a penny each for the night's accommodation. It 
is in such haunts that the larger part of the crime which is com- 
mitted is concealed. They are but nurseries or breeding places 
for the prisons ; the homes of wild, neglected, lawless children. 
These gamin are seen in every part of London. They are bold, 
pert and dirty, half starved, half clad, haggard, yet vivacious. 
They talk obscene slang, raise the shout of laughter at the reeling 
drunkard, pick pockets and prowl in all directions in search oi 
prey. Their only education is obtained in their lodging houses 
or gathered from the festering gutters. The principal part of 
their education consists in learning the art of picking pockets and 
committing other crimes without detection. To facilitate the work 
of instruction, the professors, who are aged and experienced old 
rogues, who have retired from active life, resort to many ingenious 
devices and contrivances. Among these for testing the ingenuity 
and skill of youth aspiring to become a pick -pocket, is a lay figure 
suspended by a small elastic cord from a bell fastened in the ceil- 
ing. Stuffing the pockets of this figure with port-monies, pencil 
cases, hankerchiefs, etc., they are then buttoned up and the senior 
class of light fingered gentry is brought in for instruction. The 
professor now diligently practices them in all the arts and ways of 
emptying the pockets of the lay figure without sounding the bell. 
Those who perform the task again and again with dexterity, are 
graduated arid sent abroad to prey upon the public, while those 
who do not, are soundly flogged. If after repeated floggings and 
months of instruction, they do not acquire the requisite delicacy 
of touch and agility of action to perform such sleight oj hand feats 
they are permanently passed into another class and become ap- 
prentices to less difficult branches of the robbing profession. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



In the complicated state of modern society there are many 
causes operating to produce the crime that nestles in the streets of 
great cities, which meets us at every turn in the rural districts, 
which haunts us in our going out and coming in, which spares 
neither age nor sex. It may be born of ignorance, of depravity, 
of want, but above all it must be set down to intemperance ; to 
the whiskey bottle and the ginpalace. These are the fruitful 
sources of the frightful demoralization of the people. In London 
there are 180,000 gin drinkers, who spend $15,000,000 a year in 
this spirituous drink alone. During a period of thirteen years 
249,000 males and 183,920 females were taken in custody in Lon- 
don alone, for being drunk and disorderly. Of the ten or twelve 
thousand charges entered annually at Bow Street police station, 
one-half are for being drunk Samuel Warren, author of '* Ten 
Thousand a Year'' who was in 1871 Recorder of Hull, in the 
course of a long and luminous charge to the grand jury, recently 
said : "As all crimes have their origin in intemperance or igno- 
rance, there are two causes to which it is your duty to pay parti- 
cular attention." 30,000 persons are annually committed to pris- 
on in Scotland, 40,000 in England and it is estimated that 90 per 
cent, of these crimes arose out oi the drinking custom of society. 
These are terrible facts. 

The existence of the dangerous classes, to which we have refer- 
red briefly, in the midst of modern society, under the shadow iA 
our churches, schools and libraries, is one of the most deplorable 
incidents connected with the vaunted progress of the age Classes 
who owe nothing to society but^a bitter grudge—- who owe nothing 
to, as they never derive anything from civilization. The ferocity 
of these classes was brought to light in Paris by the French Com- 
mune — classes of whose existence scarcely any one had previous 
knowledge, and greatly added to the horrors and terrors of that 
era of crime and bloodshed. Assi and his associates were little 
else than "tiger apes" or demons in human shape. They were 
gaunt, inhuman, merciless and savage; a frightfully demoralized 
brood, who sprang as if from the earth, and filled the streets of 
the city, the halls of the Tuileries and the saloons of the aristocra- 
cy. All law and order was overturned and these barbarians held 
for a time supreme command. Everybody knows the excesses 
and crimes of that second "reign of terror." There cannot be a 
doubt that London contains an equally savage race of "tiger apes" 
ready to rush forth on the least occasion, to commit equally savage 
and revolting excesses. The world is not their friend, or the 
world's law. Nor have they any idea of the governing authori- 
ties than that they constituted an armed despotism which prevents 
their earning a livelihood. They hate all law because they are 



18 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

taught to believe that it is but a tyranny administered for their op- 
pression. They have no idea of religious or moral principles, and 
when they are aroused, what is to restrain the exercise of their 
grossest passions ? Society has no greater enemy than these 
neglected classes - the wretched — the half fed dregs of the nation, 
who fester in the cesspools of all great cities. All must shudder 
at the flood of crime which, like a lava stream flowing from a vol- 
cano and destroying the vineyards of the sunny land, is apparent- 
ly, in spite of repression and detection, withering the good of the 
world and scorching its promises into the ashes of disappointment. 
Yet in our opinion there is no reason for despair. The earnest 
and thoughtful know that below, deeper than all these bad influ- 
ences and more powerful, there is the true spirit bubbling up, 
through the hot crust of evil and neglect, in springs of purity — 
that truth and falsehood are grappling and no one has ever known 
truth to have the worst of it, in a fair and open encounter. This' 
spirit is pouring itself forth by a thousand channels, is making 
religion its minister and science its handmaid. It is sent forth in 
sermons, essays, lectures, pamphlets, novels, poetry — in a thous- 
and ways we art told that refinement and barbarism are contend- 
ing powers, and in order that the rich may enjoy their luxury the 
poor must be elevated ; that one class of the family of man can 
never be happy while others are miserable. This is the voice 
which urges noble men to give to the poor parks, picture galleries 
and libraries, baths and wash houses, improved dwellings which 
will enable them to live with some decency and refinement. In 
short, the true spirit of the times is one directed to the improve- 
ment of the moral and social state of the masses. This spirit has 
already accomplished much since these notes were penned, in 
eradicating and repressing the evils of which we have spoken, and 
when it was impossible utterly to eradicate them, to mitigate their 
evils. Let us hope that this great and beneficent work will be 
ceaselessly prosecuted until the holy mission is accomplished. It 
is no doubt painful to have seen, at times it may be depressing to 
reflect over such things and scenes as those just described. The 
man, however, who has a heart to appreciate and a brain to un- 
derstand, cannot but be improved by such extension of his knowl- 
edge. No matter where he may be afterwards placed, he has laid 
up for himself mental food for life. 

Charity, curiosity and philanthropy have united to portray 
with uniform accuracy all the incidents in the life of the London 
poor. Home missionary societies, newspaper reporters, adven- 
turous philanthropists, and the intelligent foreigner have pene- 
trated into their retreats and have brought to light innumerable 
details, curious, sad and revolting. The darkest recesses of their 






RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 19 



social state have been revealed to us. An elaborate inventory 

' has been made of their defects, physical, moral and spiritual. We 

I know what their dwellings are, how they live ; the amount of 

; their incomes and how they spend them, what they save or 
rather what they do not save; how they are taxed and what usury 
they pay ; how many can read and write, what they eat, drink and 
wear, how many live in one house and sleep in one bed, and 
and finally how much sooner they sink into graves than the com- 
fortable classes. All has been investigated and lies exposed to 
the public gaze. The physician has inspected their sores, and 

; the magistrate their vices. The Divine knows how many do not 

attend church, and the teetotaler how many frequent the gin shop. 

It was highly desirable that such information should be ob- 

! tained. Having procured it, those who are willing and able to 
aid the poorer classes in their efforts to elevate themselves, now 
know what measures to take, how the existing evil may be 

I remedied. 

It is not our purpose to enter into these grave questions. We 
shall confine ourselves to giving some of the details of the daily 
life of the 50,000 prowlers of the streets. The people and au- 
thorities of London will doubtless know how to grapple with the 
subject in its practical bearings. 
'The nomadic population of London, the vagabonds or Metro- 

! politan Gypsies, or those who live upon the settled classes at 
large, is composed pretty much as follows ; Beggars of all kinds, 
tone grubbers, mud larks, patterers, costermongers, fruit-and-fish 
sellers, dogsellers, hawkers of all kinds, finders, sifters, street ar- 
tists, musicians and showmen, acrobats ; in short, the entire loose 

I and wandering population. The "finders" are a leading class and 
live by picking up in the public thoroughfares, bits of coal, ends 
of half smoked cigars, bones, rags, and such like odds and ends, 
which they manage to sell for money. 

In addition to the waifs, in the way of lost articles, picked up 

! by these Finders, they in the course of their trade of living in the 
thoroughfares, occasionally find the way into the pockets of the 
inexperienced and unwary. Indeed it is believed that the larger 
part of the "findings" of these light fingered gentry, are of small 
articles which have never been lost. The largest and most influ- 
ential division of the street Bohemians goes by the name of the 

1 costermongers, and this class includes fish sellers, retailers of veg- 
etables, oranges, ginger beer, pop-cock, fruit and such like arti- 
cles These wandering traders, people who carry their stock upon 

j their backs or in a hand barrow, are the hucksters and green- 
grocers of the streets, and supply a large portion of the working 
population with food, little comforts, and the lighter articles of 



20 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

dress. The "upper ten" of these occasionally own a donkey and 
cart. Many women and even children belong to this roving body 
of tradesmen, and scarcely any of them can read or write. — 
Amongst these the percentage of Irish is very large, and they are 
said to assume a place among the lowest strata of society in other 
great provincial cities, as well as in London. A fact, if true, 
strangely in contrast with the settled position the Irish win in 
America by their steady industry and many noble qualities. 

Leaving the class of itinerant hucksters, we next come to the 
patterers, or distributors of wayside literature, the street musicians 
or organ grinders, the sellers of water cresses, the keepers of cof- 
fee stalls, where a black mixture, one-half chicory and the other 
half possibly catsup — it tastes like it — is sold at a half penny per 
cup; the cat's meat retailers, whose stock consists of the carcasses 
of defunct horses and dogs; ballad singers who parade in front of 
the best houses, about eleven o'clock p. m., making night hideous 
with their shrieks ; play bill sellers and purveyors of dubious 
news ; bone grubbers and mud larks ; crossing sweepers, street 
periormers and show men; travelling menders of chairs, umbrel- 
las, clocks and pots, and the professional tinkers ; sellers of bon- 
net boxes, toys, stationary, plaster statuary, songs, ditties and last 
dying speeches ; vendors of tubs, pails, mats, crockery and black- 
ing; oflucifer matches, which won't light, corn salves, clothes 
pegs, brooms, sweet meats, commonly called "cholera pizen," ra'- 
zors, which like those immortalized by Peter Pinder, were not 
meant to shave but sell ; dog stealers and venders of dogs, dog 
collars, birds, coals and sand ; scavengers, dust men and many 
others. It is believed that not fewer than 60.000 individuals be- 
long to this class, and like the 50,030 mentioned previously, find 
their living in the streets. 

As the wine and spirit business is the final resort of old army 
and navy officers, who wish to add to their pensions; of broken 
down gentlemen, and of prodigal sons, who are indeed their own 
best customers, so the costermonger's trade is taken up by specu- 
lators of a lower grade, when all other avocations fail. It often 
happens that you will find among the patterers, those who have 
been clergymen in the established church, and among the orange 
and herring sellers, those who have been at one time in their lives 
mechanics or laborers. As a general rule, however, the costers 
are a distinct people. The children of the costers grow up cos- 
ters, as gypsies' children grow up gypsies. They acquire the 
slang, the wandering habits, and the vocation of their parents ; 
and rarely in after life settle down to any fixed employment. When 
efforts have been made by benevolent and well intentioned people 
to reclaim the children, it has been generally found impossible. 






RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



The author was informed by his friend, Rev. Francis C. T. Mo- 
ran, brother-in-law of Sir H'ardinge GifTord, present Solicitor- 
General, Incumbent of St Philipps, the Evangelist, Peekham, one 
of the worst quarters of South London, that a young girl of 
twelve years of age, whom he had taken from her parents to 
bring up as a domestic in his family, was in a few months so op- 
pressed with the confinement, the ease, comfort and plenty of a 
well regulated household and the restraints of civilization, that 
she availed herself of an opportunity, when sent out upon an 
errand, to return to her poverty and the Arab freedom of her 
street life, and no persuasion on his and Mrs. Moran's part could 
induce her to give it up again. She preferred the bare existence 
she could pick up in the streets with its liberty, to all that religion, 
civilization and plenty could give her when restricted to the con- 
ventional rules of society among domestics. And had she been 
acquainted with the poet's lines would have probably quoted 
them, "give me again my hollow tree, my crust of bread and 
liberty-" 

"Bless you," said one of these wild wanderers when asked how 
they live, "we don't find a living at all, it is only another way of 
starving." While this is true of a majority, some of them do 
well, especially the dealers in fish and vegetables, the higher 
grades of whom make fair earnings, but unfortunately they are 
spent as quickly as made. The costers are a gambling, improv- 
ident set, fond of cards, liquor and tobacco. After business hours 
they retire to their dens, and with only the feeble light of a tallow 
candle pass hours at all fours, blind hookey, or cribbage. When 
excited they lay heavy bets, but play principally for beer and gin. 
A majority of costers belong to what are called the "sporting 
community ;" are fond of pugilism, horse racing, dog fighting and 
rat killing. They are always present at places of amusement, 
such as penny gaffs, two penny hops, and three penny theatres. 
The boys are early taught to fight, or as it is called in their slang 
to "work their fists. ' All disputes between them are settled in 
the ring, where no interference is allowed by the umpires, but the 
antagonists are permitted to fight it out. Of these arenas there 
are several in each quarter, located generally in underground 
London and these encounters usually take place at night, and are 
witnessed by men, women and children. Serving out a police- 
man is the most noted exploit of a young coster. Until he has 
served out at least one of the legal custodians of public order, he 
has no standing in the burrowing community. The policemen 
are called "Bobbies" or "Peelers." They are so called in mem- 
ory of their founder, the late Sir Robert Peel, under whose au- 
spices they were introduced to supercede the "Charlies," and 



22 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Bow street runners of the preceding generation. Thus says 
Burns : 

"At length attacked by runners three 

Peg fell, besmeared with wounds so gory, 
And Bob was hanged on Tyburn tree, 
She died for love and he for glory." 

Between the bobbies and the costers there is perpetual war. 
Strategy, tactics, treachery and cunning are employed by both 
sides to secure victory. When a coster has been unlucky and is 
captured, and some of them have been in prison a dozen times, 
they are looked on as martyrs by their comrades. After their 
imprisonment and return to their friends, they are invariably re- 
lieved and rewarded by a general subscription. Long inured to 
this war with the Peelers, they acquire the skill, cunning, and 
treachery of savages. The coster endeavors to take the peeler or 
crusher by surprise, and often crouches at the entrance of a court 
until his foeman passes, when a stone or brick is hurled and the 
coster immediately vanishes till the effect of the blow is known. 
If the crusher is brought to the ground, he is quickly mauled 
with his own baton which the coster carries off in triumph to his 
retreat. Here it is used for the first night to stir a bowl of gin 
toddy, after which it is burnt, as they cannot gratify their pride 
by preserving their trophy longer than one evening, seeing that 
the peelers are pretty sure to give the coster haunts a visit after 
one of their number is served out; and it would go hard with 
those found cherishing such a souvenir of victory. The love of 
excitement as well as a fondness for gambling is universal among 
the fraternity of costers ; even the young are desperate gamesters, 
and no effort to mitigate the evil and eradicate the taste has ever 
been of the slightest avail. On the contrary, the very exertions 
of the police to put a stop to it, have seemed to increase their de- 
sire to indulge in it. These incorrigible scamps hold with Solo- 
mon, "stolen waters are sweet, and bread eaten in secret how good 
is it." Pie boys and butchers' apprentices will toss each other 
for their stock ; ill luck only increases their recklessness, and they 
will proceed until they have gambled away their caps, coats, cra- 
vats and even shirts. 

The chief place of amusement for the drama-loving costers is 
the "Vic," orCobourg theatre which holds in its galleries about 
2,500 persons. On star nights it is so crowded, that at the back 
it is common to see boys piled on each others shoulders all 
around. The rules of this theatre do not require a full dress 
circle but rather its antipodes, and the heat on such occasions be- 
ing extreme, the costers generally divest themselves of their coats 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 23 

and waistcoats while the "ladies" hang their bonnets and shawls 
over the iron rail in front. 

A not uncommon incident in these theatres is thus graphically 
and poetically described : 

Pat Jennings in the upper gallery sat, 

But leaning forward, Patrick lost his hat. 

What shall he do? pay at the playhouse door 

Three shillings for what cost when new but four! 

While thus he ponders overwhelmed with grief, 

George Richards whispers, "Take my handkerchief." 

"Thank ye," says Pat, "but one won't make a line," 

"Take mine," cries Soper. and cries Green "take mine." 

A motley cable now Pat Jennings ties, 

Where Spital fields with real India vies, 

Down darts the varied chord of Iris hue. 

Brown, black and yellow, speckled, pink and blue, 

George Bond below with palpitating hand 

Loops the last kerchief to the coster's band, 

While to the applauding galleries round him, Pat 

Made a low bow and touched the ransomed hat. 

An occasional burst of the full band is heard by gushes, as if a 
high wind were raging. Recognitions take place every moment, 
and "Bill Smith" is called to in a loud voice from one side, and a 
shout in answer from the other, asks, "What's up?" Or family 
secrets are revealed, and "Bob Triller" is asked where "Sal" is, 
and replies amid a roar of laughter, that she is "a-learning the 
•pi-nanney."' " The conversation ceases suddenly on the rising of 
the curtain, and then the cries of "Silence! Ord a-a-r ! Ord-a-a r !" 
make more noise than ever. Whilst the pieces are going on, 
brown, fiat bottles are frequently raised to the mouth, and be- 
tween the acts a man with a tin can, glittering in the gaslight, 
goes round crying "Porta a-r ! who's for port-a-a-r !" No delay 
between the pieces will be allowed, and should the interval appear 
too long, some one, referring to the curtain, will shout out, "Pull 
up that 'ere window blind !" or they will call to the orchestra, 
"Now, then, you cat-gut scrapers! Let's have a ha'porth of live- 
liness!" But the grand hit of the evening is always when a song 
is sung to which the entire gallery can join the chorus. Some 
actors at the minor theatres make a great point of this, and in the 
bill upon one night, when we visited the "Vic," under the title of 
"There's a good time coming, boys," there was printed, "assisted 
by the most numerous and effective chorus in the metropolis," 
meaning the whole of the gallery. The singer himself started the 
mob, saying, "Now, then gentlemen, the Exeter Hall touch!" and 



24 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

beat time with his hand, parodying M. Jullien with his baton. An 
"angcore" on such occasions is a matter of course, and, despite a 
few murmurs of "Change it to Duck-legged Dick," invariably 
insisted on. 

The morality of the costermongering community is, as may be 
imagined, low. They do not believe in the sanctity of the mar- 
riage vow. Not one-tenth of those living together are married. 
They consider it a waste of time and money to go through the 
form of wedlock, when they can live together and be quite as 
highly esteemed by their fellows without it. Among them mar- 
riage is not honorable, or concubinage disgraceful. The unmar- 
ried women living with her lover stands quite as high as the 
married. These unions last only so long as they are agreeable to 
both parties, and are dissolved by mutual consent or otherwise, as 
the case may be. New ones are formed and costermongerdom is 
not scandalized. The two penny hop is usually the place where 
matches are made, and the affair is generally settled the first 
night of meeting. The boy coster is probably not over fifteen and 
the coster girl is under twenty. Having taken the first step in life 
by their match they set up costering on their own account. 

The religion of the costers is as low as their morals. Few if 
any ever attend church. Some have never heard that there is a 
God. Few read and those who can hate tracts which "gives them 
the 'orrors." In religious matters the costers are not more igno- 
rant than the bulk of the poor population of London. Few per- 
sons even in England have an idea of the practical heathenism in 
which vast numbers are growing up. While this terrible condi- 
tion of affairs prevails at home, the sympathies of the Christian 
people of England are sought to be aroused in behalf of the Afri- 
can blacks and the Chinese mulattoes ! And in the 19th century 
it is still true as in the days of Shakespeare, "in England they 
will not give a doit to relieve a lame beggar, but will lay out ten 
to see a dead Indian." 

Upon this subject a recent writer , one who has investigated the 
condition of the poor of London minutely and elaborately, remarks 
"that a class numbering 50,000 should be permitted to remain in a 
state of almost brutish ignorance, is a national disgrace. If the 
London costers belong especially to the 'dangerous classes,' the 
danger of such a body is assuredly of our own creation; for the 
gratitude of the poor creatures to any one who seeks to give them 
the least knowledge is almost pathetic." 

The ragged schools supported in the neighborhoods of the poor 
and depraved are not patronized by the costers. Their children 
are never sent, and the only education they get is acquired like 
that which made Sam Weller "sharp," in the streets, and is in a 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 25 

word, an education in crime. In everything connected with the 
supply of their immediate wants without labor, in procuring 
money without working for it, they possess a precocious acute- 
ness. As a natural consequence, they have an irrepressible re- 
pugnance to any settled industry, and despise nothing so much as 
honest labor. It could scarcely be otherwise when we recollect 
the moral atmosphere in which the coster grows. 

Strange as it may seem, certain rude principles of honor exist 
among them. Such property as they possess is always exposed 
and they leave their stall in charge of a competitor in the same 
line of business without the slightest fear or suspicion. Their 
table, their hand-barrows, the stable containing their donkeys, 
are unwatched, unguarded by lock or bolt, but the coster sleeps 
soundly and securely, relying upon the honor which prevails 
among thieves. This is somewhat remarkable when we consider 
that the donkey is included among the unguarded property of 
the coster. All costers have a hankering after these little animals. 
The strongest tie of affection in the coster's heart is that which 
binds him to his donkey. He is kind to his donkey, however 
cruel he may be to others. Ill treatment to his donkey he re- 
sents as a personal affront. However meagre his fare the coster 
shares it with his donkey, always giving it the larger portion of 
his bread, and his confidence in the intelligence of his donkey is 
unbounded. 

"It is all nonsense to call donkeys stoopid," said one, "them's 
stoopid as calls them so ; they'se sensible, sensible to the last. 
Not long since I worked to and from Guildford with my donkey, 
cart and a boy ; Jack, (the donkey.) was slow and heavy in coming 
back, until he came in sight of the lights of Vauxhall and then he 
trotted on like one o'clock, — he did indeed ! just as if he smelt it 
was London, besides seeing it, and knew he was at home." 

"There was a friend of mine," said another man, 'had great 
trouble with his donkey a few months back. He was doing a 
little work on Sunday morning at Wandsworth, and the poor 
thing fell down dead. He was very fond of his donkey and kind 
to it, and the donkey was very fond of him. He thought he 
wouldn't leave the poor creature he'd had a good while and had 
been out with in all weathers by the roadside, so he dropped all 
idea of doing business, and with help, got the poor dead thing in 
his cart, its head lolloping over the end of the cart and its poor 
eyes staring at nothing. He took the place of the donkey be- 
tween the shafts. He thought he'd drag it home and bury it 
somewhere. It wasn\for the value of it he dragged it, for what's 
a dead donkey worth, even for rat's meat ? There were a few per- 
sons about him —mourners. They were quiet and seemed sorry 



26 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

for the poor fellow and for his donkey. The church bells struck 
up, and up came a crusher and took the man up (for violating the 
Sabbath) and next day he was fined ten shillings, I can't exactly 
say for what. He never saw no more of his animal, and lost his 
stock as well as his donkey." 

The costers, like all other persons, when "tight up," are made 
the victims of the rapacity of usurers. Not having the capital to 
become the owners of the tables, carts and hand barrows used in 
their business, they hire these from persons who make a support 
by letting them out. It is a good living too; on every ;£ioo of 
value in hand barrows, thus advanced by the owners, they derive 
an annual interest of not less than 20 per cent, per week, or one 
thousand and forty per cent, per annum. This is a usurious rate 
of interest quite up to, if not beyond that of the most inexorable 
modern Shylock. The cost of a barrow is when new, about £2, 
but no instance is on record of a coster having saved money 
enough to become the owner of one. They prefer to pay 1 or lis 
per week for its use. If they had the money they would not 
purchase ; and on several occasions when benevolent persons have 
presented them with barrows, they have immediately sold them 
at a deduction of fifty per cent, to realize ready cash — nothing be- 
ing in their eyes so desirable as immediate money. The owners 
of the barrows live like Lords. One man owning 120 barrows 
worth ^240 derived from them a net income of ,£360 a year. 
Many of these owners who let barrows on a large scale, become 
wealthy in the course of a few years, and often retire to ease and 
independency in an ornamental cottage or a suburban villa. 

With these meagre details we must here stop. It is a painful 
subject inasmuch as it exhibits a vast number of human beings 
living in a degraded state, abandoned to mere sensual life. The 
darkest clouds, however, are lined with silver and this picture is 
not without some cheering light. Evidence is not wanting, in 
even these wretched beings, of human goodness which would 
bring forth the richest fruit with proper culture. We have never 
felt, when visiting these haunts, any other sentiment than that of 
commisseration for these unhappy victims of neglect. It is not 
difficult for the well-fed moralist, seated in his easy chair, his 
slippered feet upon the fender and a bottle of ruby wine within 
reach, to expatiate on the depravity of human nature and the 
beauties of virtue, knowledge and religion. Aye, preaching is in- 
deed easy. We first stigmatize these victims of misfortune as 
brutish, stolid, wicked —then reap the rewards of their labors and 
deny them the dignity of citizenship, take from them all incentive 
to perseverance, all desire to be respectable, all future hope, and 
then declaim against their recklessness, their disorderly habits, 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



-7 



their ignorance and their wickedness ! In other words we never 
want a plea for our own shortcomings and misconduct. 

Could the moralist so easily stand the wear and tear of poverty? 
Were he subjected to their trials what would become of him and 
his prudence and self denial? Where would be this well wined 
and well dined homilist without hope to stimulate and port to 
fortify ? If instead of his leisure to moralize upon the frailties of 
human nature, he were confined to some irksome employment 
from dawn till dusk, fed upon insufficient food, married to an 
overworked and underfed factory girl, deprived of the enjoyments 
opened up by education, with no place of recreation but the pot 
house or the two-penny theatre, we imagine the complacent mor- 
alist would be little better, than those he looks down upon from 
the heights of his prosperity and enjoyment. As no life is pleas- 
ing to God but that which is useful to mankind, would it not be 
wiser and more virtuous to labor to redeem these wretched people, 
instead of denouncing them ? If after providing them healthy 
employment and remunerative wages, suitable amusements for 
hours of relaxation, books, newspapers, lectures, concerts and ex- 
hibitions ; in a word, doing our duty, putting our neighbor in 
possession of all the advantages we enjoy, they continued incorri- 
gible, it would be soon enough to inveigh against their sins, the 
sins of suffering humanity. But some people will never learn any- 
thing, for this reason : because they understood everything too 
soon. He is a good divine that follows his own instructions, and 
these railing moralists would be more useful men and more reli- 
able guides if they preached less and worked more, since it is 
agreed that the distinguishing characteristic of a man of merit is 
to be ever active in laudable pursuits. 



28 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



CHAPTER II 



THE KEW GARDENS AND RICHMOND PARK — RUMINATIONS OVER 
SOME OF JOHN BULL'S PECULIARITIES. 

So powerful was the effect produced upon us by the strange 
experiences we had now acquired, and which we have detailed in 
the preceding chapter, that we resolved, for our heart was troub- 
led, our spirits depressed, to turn for relief to nature, for all nature 
breathes the language of hope and mercy. Experience teaches 
the soothing influence of the country, the beneficial effects of from 
time to time looking upon green fields and bright flowers ; of giv- 
ing the mind an interval of repose while the body wanders over 
scenes of beauty, and the heart expands under the canopy of 
heaven. 

Thankful for the opportunity of leisure which enabled us to 
enjoy at this time, rural sights and scenes, we set forth with alac- 
rity, in the direction of Kew and Richmond. We went forth 
determined to see, in the limited time at our disposal, as much as 
possible of life in villages and hamlets, farm houses and cottages ; 
in palaces and castles, parks and gardens ; to attend fairs and fes^ 
tivals — in a word, to mix with the people and study their habits 
and customs, if possible, in all the conditions and walks of life, 
persuaded that the character of a people cannot be obtained by 
confining one's observations to a metropolis, however great that 
metropolis may be. 

Our route was down Parliament street to Westminster, which 
stands in the centre of that remarkable locality which may be re- 
garded as the heart and core of the British empire. From this 
centre go forth the veins and arteries which give vitality to the 
most distant parts of England's dominions Here are grouped 
the Parliament Houses, in which the Peers of the Realm and the 
representatives of the people — the Lords and Commons — assem- 
ble. Here also the innumerable offices for the transaction of all 
public business, civil and military ; Buckingham Palace, the town 
residence of the Queen, St. James' Palace, in which the drawing 
rooms or receptions occur, and Marlborough House, the residence 
of the Prince of Wales ; Westminster Hall, in which for nearly 
eight hundred years the superior courts of justice have held their 
sittings ; the Horse Guards and the Admiralty — the respective 
head quarters of the army and navy ; Westminster School and 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 29 

Westminster Abbey ; within a few stones' throw Lambeth Palace, 
the official residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. On every 
side are the evidences that the multitudinous affairs of the British 
Empire are here transacted ; that this is the arena upon which 
has been solved the theory of the British Constitution ; that here 
her great and enduring institutions have been moulded intosfnpe; 
the arena where battles have been fought, which if of less thrilling 
interest, have not been of less importance, in their influence on the 
affairs of men, than those which follow the shock of contending 
armies - the arena where noble hearts have pulsated and a long 
array of illustrious orators and statesmen have passed, whose 
names and deeds will be gratefully remembered wherever Chris- 
tianity and civilization find an abiding place. 

Pursuing our course up Constitutional Hill we reach Hammer- 
smith, and then the long-wished-for country of green -hedges and 
cultivated fields. The day was bright and joyous, a rich, soft sun- 
light descended upon the landscape and fell in golden streaks 
• upon the river. Carried forward at a brisk trot in the Putney 'bus 
we were soon in the streets of the antique village of Kew. 

Kew is one of those quaint old towns, so common to England, 
abounding in the disorders of architecture, where are seen side by 
side, long low fronts and narrow, high gables, broad windows, 
with French plate glass and narrow ones with diamond panes, 
some mullioned, others bay windows projecting over the walls, 
latticed piazzas and hit>h porticos, houses of red brick and others 
of grey stone, some with one wing and others with two and where 
two, most usually unlike ; some roofs that are flat and others steep 
and the whole without regard to congruity, yet where there is in 
the general aspect a certain harmony and decided picturesque- 
ness. 

Rich in its ancient historical reminiscences, Kew carries us back 
to the fantastical days of hoops and farthingales, of full bottomed 
w r igs and snuff colored coats, of silk breeches and dangling swords; 
of pointed shoes and cocked hats, all of which were in full vogue 
during the earlier period of that Georgian era from which these 
far famed gardens date their foundation. Those were the days 
during which men systematically and as a measure of common 
prudence executed their wills and bade farewell to their families 
before starting on the perilous journey from London to Bath; 
when upon the side of the rumbling stage coach were duly 
enumerated the towns it would pass through and the inns it would 
stop at. Old England, however, has passed away with the stage 
coach, and while she has bequeathed to us much to be grateful for 
and much to admire, her work has been done. It is with young 
England we have to deal now — the England of railways and tele- 



3° . RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

graphs, of steam boats, of the penny post, of gas lit cities and cheap 
newspapers, oflyceums, libraries, etc. 

Crossing Kew green we saw in many windows cards offering 
apartments to let. Wishing to know how these compared in va- 
rious ways with those of London, we rapped at one of the doors, 
and were introduced by a dowdy servant girl, her sleeves rolled 
up above her elbows and her face smudged with dirt and black- 
ened with smoke, to her mistress, Mrs. Jones. Mrs. Jones was 
quickly discovered to be a representative woman of her class, and 
with a real woman's volubility. As she conducted us through the 
house she almost stunned us with a torrent of words in which she 
set forth the advantages of Kew in general as a place of residence 
and her edifice in particular, as the most eligible and desirable of 
Kew lodging houses. The impulsive landlady went on to declare 
that she had been uniformly patronized bv the quality, such as Sir 
John McLeod and Lord Claud Hamilton,who came there annually 
to fish ; by the Percys of Homedale, not the Homedales of Percy 
a junior branch of that ancient race, and that if we came to her 
she would guarantee us every home comfort and all reasonable 
luxuries. Notwithstanding our haste to see the vegetable prides 
of Kew, we suffered ourselves to be detained until she had count- 
ed up among the gentle-folks she had entertained, a considerable 
part of the peerage, and, what seemed to us the larger moietv of 
the landed gentry. J 

The house, a roomy, rambling one, was ordinary enough in ap- 
pearance and appointments. The lodgings, however, were higher 
in price than similar suites in London Expressing surprise at 
this lact, she informed us with an emphatic toss of her head which 
caused her cork-screw curls to tremble in the still air as her cap 
darted in the direction of the opposite wall in a parabolic curve 
that kew was most decidedly a fashionable town, not so large as 
London, but by no means small, and quite charming "Besides " 
said she with a triumphant air, as she straightened herself up 
throwing back a pair of square shoulders and advancing a protu-' 
berant t ust, "1 live in the same street with the Duchess " 

Incredible as it may seem to American readeis, a feeble impres* 
sion only was made on our minds by this earnest advocate; and 
we backed out of the front hall without having engaged lodgings 
Recrossing the green to the Brown Jug, a respectable looking 
inn, we heard from the barmaid while despatchiug in the parlor a 
glass of the inevitable 'arf and 'arf; a girl robust in figure and fresh 
in complexion— that Mrs. Jones not only lived in the same street 
but on the same side ol it, with the Dowager Duchess of Cam- 
bridge and that she was in the habit of entertaining many *hi 2 h 
judicial gents and other official functionaries." This fact account- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 3 1 

ed at once for the good woman's credit and consequence, for the 
indignant toss of her head and the high price of her apart- 
ments. 

A rain coming on it was decided that we should pass the night 
at the Brown Jug. After a European repast in the shape of a 
"meaty tea," we established ourselves in a fireside chair and began 
to ruminate. 

A century's residence is by no means necessary in the mother 
country to make the stranger acquainted with the abject servility 
of the middle and lower orders towards the nobility. The deity 
of rank is absolutely idolized by them. The successful man of 
business, be he banker, merchant or manufacturer, considers no- 
thing more desirable than to bestow his daughter, she may be 
beautiful and accomplished, upon the son, though an unworthy 
son, of a Lord. On the other hand it must be admitted that the 
impecunious Viscount is not too proud to replenish his coffers by 
an alliance with a wealthy tea dealer, beer brewer or cotton spin- 
ner. It is a fair bargain and an understood thing that the money 
offsets the rank. The eagerness, however, with which the middle 
classes pursue their high game, and their pride at bringing it down, 
is marvelous. Few things connected with the commercial classes 
so much excites Republican surprise as this gross want of self re- 
spect. That sense of equality to which Americans are bred, finds 
no place among the inferior orders in Britain. Instinctively they 
kotou to it the moment they are confronted by superior rank. 
This obsequiousness is peculiar to the shopocracy — as deeply im- 
planted in them as the Sepoy's abhorrence of a greased cartridge. 
To them a title outweighs all earthly considerations. To be pat- 
ronized by a Lord is a great stroke of good luck and will make 
the fortune of a tradesman, or a green grocer or fish monger. 
Everybody is sure to patronize those whom nobility patronizes. 
To be surrounded by the odor of aristocracy is a safe card for a 
fortune. And this though the ancient nobility is principally sprung, 
as they should know, from the twenty thousand adventurers who 
landed at Hastings in ic66 and of whom it has been truly said: 
"These founders of the House of Lords were greedy and ferocious 
pirates. They were all alike, they took everything they could 
carry, they burned, harried, violated, tortured and killed until 
everything English was brought to the verge of ruin. Such, 
however, is the illusion of antiquity and wealth, that decent and 
dignified men now existing boast their descent from these filthy 
thieves. Or if you come down to later times, of which a faithful 
record has been left by Grammont, Pepys and Evelyn, from pros- 
titutes taken from the theatres and made duchesses, and their 
bastards, Dukes and Lords." 



32 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

When a shopkeeper has amassed a fortune, he retires to Ty- 
burnia, on the route to the West- end or some fashionable water- 
ing place, and seeks the means of introduction into a higher circle. 
In a country enjoying- the commercial prosperity of England, the 
number of such aspirants is large, and they often find it no easy 
matter to accomplish their wishes. The affluent "upper ten" are 
ever on the alert to head off intruders and preserve the exclusive- 
ness of patrician realms. Relying solely upon their wealth, the 
new rich endeavor to acquire, through its instrumentality, the 
"open sesame." It is their only card ; luckily it is a trump, and 
the best of trumps— the long trump. In the end they always 
succeed. The advertisements in the supplement to the Times fur- 
nish many striking evidences of these facts. Among the more 
recent we have seen is the following : "Home offered free of ex- 
pense. A married lady of good family and highly connected, 
offers to receive as her guest for the winter season or longer, any 
lady or young lady of good birth, who in sole return would pro- 
cure introduction for them to the leading society of either Dover 
or Leamington. All traveling expenses snd further advantages 
paid. ^ A happy home offered. Full particulars, with the best 
and highest references given. Address, L. V., Portman Library, 
Baker street, Portman Square, London, W." 

The same feeling, in a modified form, shows itself in all classes 
—even in the Peerage, where the gouty old Baron turns up his 
humor-eaten nose and his watery eyes in contempt at modern de- 
generacy and the new creations — the new Peerages. 

In the piping times of peace the principal avenue to success is 
through the law — a lawyer of eminent learning and ability rarely 
failing to make his way into Parliament and thence to the peerage. 
Two cases of the kind occurred during our residence in England. 
Sir. Wm. Vernon Harcourt, who was a rising barrister in 1861, 
(and who, by the way, married a daughter of the American histo- 
rian, John L. Motley,) ten years later^ was a Member of Parlia- 
ment for Oxford and Solicitor General And Sir Hardinge Gif- 
ford, who was little known beyond his Inn of Court in 1861, was 
in 1875 Member of Parliament for Guilford and is the present 
Solicitor General. These conspicuous men, who owe their success 
to their bright intellectual endowments, their erudition and perse- 
vering industry, are sneered at by the older Peers, who supercil- 
iously style them "Law lords " They seem to have forgotten that 
the power, wealth, and influence of a country lie not so much in 
the higher as in the middle classes; not with the aristocratic few, 
but with the plebian many. What true man is there, however 
great his pride of race, who would not rather owe his position to 
his powers of heart and intellect, rather than to the mere accident 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 33 

of existence which brought him into life as the heir of a nobleman 
instead of the son of a peasant. That class designated more par- 
ticularly as our ancient nobility — those descended from the first 
Norman invaders or old Saxon nobles, are in general very proud 
of their descent, and most of them disdain all familiar intercourse 
with any of those among their fellow subjects, whom they think a 
degree below themselves, or if they condescend to speak to them, 
and admit them to some kind of familiarity, their condescension is 
such an odd mixture of urbanity and haughtiness, that it proves 
very disgusting to men of any parts and spirit. During our first 
visit to London in 1851-52, the writer had the pleasure to become 
acquainted with a "city magnate," Mr. Jones Lloyd — one of those 
enterprising merchants whose operations extend to the farthest 
corners of the earth. On his return to London ten years later, he 
was much gratified to find Mr. Loyd's great merits and success 
had been recognized, and that he had been raised to the Peerage, 
as Lord Overstone. We were not a little disgusted, from time to 
time, to hear these illiberal and narrow-minded old fogies still 
haughtily speaking of Lord Overstone as Jones Lloyd. Men like 
Lord Overstone smile at such impotent malice, while the mass of 
the people regard it as "all right as matters go" and are ever 
raking among the musty records of the Herald's Office to trace 
their origin to some one of the above mentioned twenty thousand 
Norman adventurers. A rage for titles exists and where the title 
of a woman is higher than that of her husband, it is not dropped, 
but ever paraded in contrast with his, which is construed, "how 
wonderfully I have condescended to marry him," 

In every paper you see, during the season, such announcements 
as the following taken from the Times : "Frances, Countess Wal- 
dergrave and the Right Hon. Chichester Fortesque, M. P. (her 
fourth husband, her title being derived from her first) received a 
select party at dinner on yesterday," and "The Countess of Guil- 
ford and Mr. Elliot will leave town on Wednesday next for the 
Continent" — Mr. Elliott being her second husband. 

If a man belongs to an order of Knighthood, he never forgets 
to sign after his name letters by which he is known, as John Bull, 
C. B., meaning Companion of the Bath, and Richard Roe, K. G., 
Knight of the Garter. 

A country gentleman informed us that it was common in the 
rural districts for wives of Members of Parliament to have engraved 
upon their cards, " W. M. P.," meaning wife of a Member of Par- 
liament, but as no case of the kind came under our observation, 
we must presume that he was indulging in chaff. A dingy look- 
ing dealer in milk and cheese opposite our lodgings sent us his 
card which ran as follows: " Harry Patmorc, P. A. R. F" Not 



34 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

understanding the meaning of these letters, and presuming that 
he could hardly belong to a learned society or the most recent 
batch of new creations, we had recourse to our landlady who 
solved the mystery by explaining that the title he bore was ''Pur- 
veyor of Asses Milk to the Royal Family." 

The daily papers chronicle the most trifling incidents connected 
with the Royal family, so that they may be said to live constantly 
in the full gaze of the public — to have no private life whatever. If 
the Prince of Wales should come to town for a day from his coun- 
try seat, Sandringharn, the details are gathered by the penny a- 
liners and Jenkinses of the press and all the circumstances of the 
journey to and fro are minutely detailed, as if the route he took 
to the railway station, and the persons by whom he was attended, 
were matters of the greatest public importance. The public is 
informed that his carriages were close and not open ones; that 
the carriages on arriving at the station did not draw up at the 
public entrance, but passed on to the Queen's private waiting 
room ; that there was a platform, and moreover a platform cover- 
ed with crimson cloth, and that the Royal party alighted on said 
platform — that the Prince and Princess appeared in excellent 
health and spirits, and that instead of passing on from the platform 
to the waiting room without condescending to notice the specta- 
tors, they actually "bowed very graciously to the bystanders." 
The dress of the Princess is described with the minuteness and 
particularity of a mantaurnaker, and the Prince, we are told, wore 
a wide awake instead of his usual chimney pot hat. The names 
oi the officials who received the Royal party on the crimson cloth 
platform and escorted it therefrom are duly recorded, and before 
the perilous journey is commenced the farther additional informa- 
tion is vouchsafed that the "State saloon was placed in the centre 
of the passenger train," and that notwithstanding these tremend- 
ous preparations, "the train left at the usual hour," and travelling 
by certain stations with its illustrious inmates — the only stations 
by which it could pass — arrived at the usual hour at the London 
terminus, wh^re we are further told, every preparation was made 
by the railway authorities for the reception of the Royal party, 
who are said to have stood the fatiguing journey of two hours 
remarkably well. Every incident is now again detailed how they 
left the train, what carriages they entered; through what streets 
they passed ; how his Royal Highness, seeing a chimney on fire, 
expressed the opinion that the public health rt-quired that all fam- 
ilies residing in the Metropolis should adopt the Derby patent for 
consuming their own smoke ; how the public assembled in front 
of Marlborough House to catch a glimpse of the future king and 
queen, and how they were disappointed by the Royal party which 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 35 

turned up Piccadilly and down Constitution Hill and alighted at 
Buckingham Palace. 

In extenuation of this snobbery, the stranger is told that these 
published details are collected by the newspaper reporters from 
footmen, butlers and kitchen maids, and are not communicated by 
the "noble lords and ladies" themselves ; that he must not fall into 
the error of making them responsible for the prying curiosity and 
vulgar weakness of the Jenkinses of the journals who believe that 
the human race is divided into men, women and the British peer- 
age. An explanation doubtless true in the main, as we regret to 
see in our country a similar system of espoina^e growing up, and 
the private gatherings at our houses published to the world, and 
the remarks even of our guests not unfrequently passed in review 
in some sheet which lives on the profits of what is styled in the 
phraseology of the day, sensational journalism. 

Whatever truth there may be in the Britton's explanation of 
these peculiarities, the stranger cannot be long in the country with- 
out observing that there is an extravagant homage paid to rank 
and title. It is the weak point in the English character. What- 
ever they may say, the fact is undeniable, they love a lord. Dur- 
ing our protracted residence in Britain we have rarely known a 
public meeting of any kind without a lord in the chair. One of 
the sacred animals is, after the custom of certain eastern people, 
always placed in the van. Even the Scientific Societies insist 
upon having a lord for President. The Royal Geographical had 
Lord Ashburton for its presiding officer for years. It does not 
matter to them whether he has or has not attainments — he has a 
title — that's what they want, not the booby who sports it. Science 
does not prostitute itself to ignorance only to rank. No institu- 
tion of learning- school or college- — is founded without having 
titled patrons or visitors to satisfy the popular requirements These 
are selected from among the aristocracy, whatever their want of 
qualifications, the more glaring the want of qualifications, the 
higher sounding must be the title. The title of Prince or Duke 
will cover with the mantle of charity even Egyptian ignorance. 
There is no learned or literary society in England which would not 
be proud to have a Prince or Royal Duke in the chair, so deeply 
rooted is that popular veneration for the consecrated race. 

The injurious effects of this prevalent feeling is seen in the con 
duct and bearing of many of the nobility, and it is only strange 
that it does not ruin the whole race A man has very little chance 
of knowing how to conduct himself in this world who has from 
his infancy been the object of slavish adulation. First worship- 
ped by his nurse, then flattered by grooms, stable boys, peasants 
and hangers on of the family, then todied by tutors, he enters col- 



36 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

lege only to find his caste held sacred, and when he enters the 
world he finds himself delivered over to the adulation of the en- 
tire public. It is not surprising that they are sometimes arrogant. 
If people prostrate themselves before them why may not ihe peo- 
ple expect to be trampled on? It is not the fault of the lord, but 
of the people. 

Much to be regretted is the fact that instead of worshipping 
rank, class or caste as do the Hindoos and Brahmins, they do not 
confine their reverence to purity of character, great thoughts and 
noble deeds. Here all the world could unite with them. The 
popular reception or value set upon a title by the lower orders 
gives the title its value — if people ceased to worship it, no one 
would desire it. But no sooner is a man invested with a title, got 
a handle to his name, than he finds himself invested with new 
power — a power that does not reside in himself, but in the hearts 
of those who fawn upon him . It is the aristocratic spirit and 
sympathy which pervades the entire mass of society which gives 
the aristocracy their power. — The English are at heart aristocratic 
and never cease struggling after its honors. They spend their ' 
lives, giving up comfort and happiness, to reach its ranks, or that 
their children may do so. The growth of centuries, this spirit is 
supposed to hive had its origin in the Norman conquest and the 
feudal system. However this may be, ages must pass before it 
can be eradicated. The feudal system still exists in a modified 
form in England. The law of primogeniture — the accumulation 
of vast landed estates in a few hands, the laws of entail, &c, which 
have been thrown off by all Europe, by America, and by the 
English colonies throughout the world, still continue in force in 
the sea-girt island. The laws are still made by the aristocratic 
few, for the benefit of the patrician classes. The privileges and 
immunities of this class being found in ancient usage and the cus- 
toms of bygone ages, they cultivate a reverence for the past, dis- 
parage everything new or modern, and thus seek to strengthen 
their position by encouraging the growth in the minds and heaits 
of the people, of sentiments of respect for the law-givers of a 
semi-barbaric age in which these privileges had their origin. This 
well known sentiment, we may add, is turned to amusing effect in 
the new operetta, styled " The Pirates of Penzance" which is now 
being successfully performed at the Fifth Avenue Theatre, New 
York. In an encounter between the pirates and the police, the 
latter are conquered. The condition of the police seems hopeless 
but the sergeant is not without resource. 

Serg. — To gain a brief advantage you've contrived, 

But your proud triumph will not be long lived ! 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 37 

King. — Don't say you're orphans, for we know that game. 
Serg. — On your allegiance we've a strong claim. 

We charge you yield in Queen Victoria's name ! 

This is an appeal that no Englishman, not even a pirate, can 
resist. The King and his crew at once surrender. 

King — We yield at once with humbled mein. 

Because, with all our faults, we love our Queen. 

The General orders them to be marched off in custody, when 
Ruth enters : 

Ruth. — One moment; let me tell you who they are — 
They are no members of the common throng, 
They are all noblemen who have gone wrong ! 

This announcement has an electrical effect on the General and 
the police, who at once kneel in homage at the feet of their late 
foes. 

General. — No Englishmen unmoved that statement hears, 

Because with all our faults, we love our House of Peers. 

This is no overdrawn picture, yet we find a certain class of 
British tourists in this country, with true Cockney audacity, "ridi- 
culing what they style the American's love for titles. These carp- 
ing faultfinders are offended with the existence of military and 
naval titles in a country uncurst with a standing army and an in- 
vincible armament. They forget that we have a bellicose militia. 
We are willing to admit that the average American is not alto- 
gether without something of the "Britisher's" love of gewgaws, 
nor are "his sisters, his cousins or his aunts," but nobody in this 
country attaches the slightest importance to these militia titles. 
They do not enhance the credit or consequence of the persons 
who bear them, are often conferred in merriment by boon com- 
panions. But if we are to take as true the moral of the operetta, 
so recently and admirably represented by amateurs in Staunton, 
we could hardly be charged with an ill-regulated and false ambi- 
tion, if we ranked the Admiral of one of our yacht squadrons with 
the "ruler of the Queen's navee." 

But whither are we wandering? What has become of Kew ? 
Revenons nous a nos moufoii. 

The pleasure gardens of Kew constitute its chief attractions, 
though many of the disciples of Isaac Walton frequent the Thames 
hereabouts, pursuing their favorite pastime, These famous gar- 
dens have been improved with much taste, and show, notwith- 
standing the level surface originally, a considerable variety of 



38 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

scenery. The botanic gardens are noted for their exotic treas- 
ures collected from every part of the world, which flourish in the 
Palm house, the largest glass structure we have seen, save the 
Crystal Palace, "unconscious of a less propitious clime." 

On entering the gardens from the village, one of the first objects 
which attracts attention is the willow, an offspring from that which 
overshadows the tomb of Napoleon at St. Helena. We were sur- 
prised to find at this early season, in full bloom in the open air, 
many flowers of vivid hue ; scarlet geraniums, crocuses, yellow 
callecolaries, hyacinths and heliotropes. 

Among the rare trees pointed out to us were 2,oco Chinconas, 
from which the sulphate of quinine is manufactured. For some 
years prior to i860, the British government was successfully en- 
gaged in the task of supplying these trees to the East Indies. 
They are produced at Kewfrom seed brought from South America. 
Much fear was felt of the entire destruction of the tree in South 
America, when the British, government hastened to fit out an ex- 
pedition under one of its ablest admirals, with C. R. Markham as 
botanist, to proceed to Chili and Peru to collect trees and the seed 
of the tree, as a means of preserving and propagating it in its own 
equatorial and other fever stricken colonies. These labors have 
been crowned with gratifying success, and the day is not far dis- 
tant when the price of quinine, so expensive now, will be within 
reach of the poorest sufferer. Worthy of all praise, we trust this 
enlightened policy may be pursued by the authorities of our Gulf 
States. The climate of the cotton States is doubtless well adapted 
to the growth of the Chincona tree ; it is certainly prolific in the 
diseases in which quinine is taken with good effect. 

From imperial Kew we passed on to Richmond and soon 
reached the terraced road on the hill which leads directly to the 
Park. This road, lined and shaded by great oaks in the gnarled 
majesty of old age, commands an extended and beautiful view of 
the Valley of the Thames, which is covered with country seats, 
farm houses and villages. The line of beauty was never more 
faithfully depicted in landscape than by the course of the broad 
and beautiful river. So regular are its windings, so just are the 
length and curvature of its sweeps, and so well proportioned are 
its width and the space it occupies in the rich valley through 
which it flows, so tranquil and lake-like is the surface of the 
water that at first sight we cannot divest ourselves of the idea 
that nature has called in the assistance of art, and has ornamented 
the scenery beneath us with reference to the most approved prin- 
ciples of landscape gardening. 

In a few minutes more, we entered the celebrated Star and 
Garter Inn, which is situated just outside of the main entrance to 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 39 

the Park, and after indulging in some of the expensive dainties 
dispensed at this establishment, leaving our baggage, we set off 
for a stroll in the enchanting scenes of the park, more than 1,000 
acres of which are covered by a dense forest. From Oliver's 
mount, in the park, St. Paul's Cathedral and Windsor Castle may- 
be seen on a fair day. Yet you cannot penetrate a half mile into 
the dark recesses of the forest without feeling that you have taken 
leave of civilization and the haunts of men. 

The park occupies a portion of the ancient hunting grounds of 
William the Norman and his regal successors for centuries, and 
the sites of many of the lodges of the rangers, around which are 
strewn masses of ruins, are still pointed out to the stranger. How 
are times changed ! The days of Robin Hood and hismerry men 
are gone ; the sound of the hunting horn no longer awakes the 
echoes in the solitudes of the few forests which have survived 
the desolations of centuries ; the swineherd no more attends 
his charge under the mighty oaks, and the lady of high degree, 
attended by her knights and retainers, cannot now be seen, can- 
tering on her palfrey with falcon on her fair hand awaiting the 
flight of the heron. The great law of change has acted here as 
elsewhere. Old things have passed away and all traces of them 
are rapidly disappearing. No where more so than in the vicinity 
of London. Buildings are starting up in every direction and anon 
speculative builders and joint stock companies will overlay beau- 
tiful Richmond with brick and plaster. Such is the progress, the 
utilization of the age. The lovers of the philosophical science of 
esthetics must unite to preserve the beautiful and sublime in na- 
ture and art, or both will perish in the din of machinery and the 
smoke of factories. 



40 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



CHAPTER IV. 



FURTHER EXPERIENCES OF RICHMOND — GYPSIES — JOHN 
EARL RUSSELL, &C. 



While sojourning in Richmond, we wandered on one occasion to 
the outskirts of the Park looking over the waste of an adjoining 
common, inhaling with pleasant exhiliaration the unbreathed air of 
the heath. Soon our attention was attracted by a thin, vapory 
column of smoke ascending from a ravine, about two hundred 
yards distant. Approaching the spot, we saw a ragged tent, 
around which several swart, sun-burnt children were playing. On 
the opposite side of the tent stood a shaggy pony yoked to a 
rieketv cart. Several men were busy packing away goods and 
chattels belonging to the party, which was evidently about to strike 
tent and be off. We recognized them at once as a party of gyp- 
sies. Our appearance seemed anything than agreeable to these 
Bohemians ; the children scampered off, while the men appeared 
perfectly unconscious of our presence. An old hag hobbled from 
the tent at this embarrassed moment, her dishevelled hair stream- 
ing over her back and shoulders, her glassy eyes distilling rheum, 
and introduced herself by asking if we wished to have our for- 
tunes told. She accompanied this question with the encouraging 
remark "that our faces were lucky." Declining to appeal to the 
fates upon the question of the future, we scattered a few pennies 
among the children, who were momentarily becoming bolder and 
lessening the distance which divided us. The unsympathetic men 
who witnessed what was going on from the corners of their furi- 
tive eyes, now advanced, as if we were friends, and became as 
amicable and communicative as could be desired. Our intimacy 
increased rapidly. In a half hour we ascertained that they had 
no accurate knowledge of their own origin and history, that there 
was nothing peculiar to the habits of this particular party — that 
they were simply common- place strollers. 

This singular and unhappy race, for it is unhappy, as can be 
seen from the expression of vacuity and melancholy in their faces, 
is generally believed to have had its origin in Hindostan where 
they belonged to the lowest class of Indians. They are supposed 
to have taken to flight early in the 15th century when India was 
ravaged by Timur Bey for the purpose of spreading the Mahom- 



RAMBLING REMINISCEXSES. 4X 

etan religion, and thousands were put to death. Their exit was 
through the Southern Persian Gulf to the mouth of the Euphra- 
tes, thence to Bassora into the great desert of Arabia, afterwards 
into Arabia Petrea and so into Egypt by the Isthmus of Suez. 
They claim, however, to be Egyptians and account for their vaga- 
bond life by referring it to a judgment of God upon their fore- 
fathers who refused to entertain the Virgin Mary and Jesus, when 
they fled into their country. Every effort to conform them to the 
usages of civilization and systematic labor has proved futile. They 
adhere to their wandering, almost savage mode of life, picking up 
a scanty support by petty thieving, peddling, tinkering, jugglery, 
legerdemain, fortune-telling and general cheatery. Wherever their 
camp fires are seen glimmering at night there are sure to be twist- 
ed necks and vacant nests in neighboring hen-roosts. Among 
themselves they speak a language of their own, which is not the 
slang of thieves, but the language of Romany, which has sprung 
from the Sanscript and the Zend, an ancient Persian dialect. A 
dictionary of this tongue has been prepared and the Bible transla- 
ted into the idiom by Barrow. But their language is on the de- 
cline and the race passing away. The number in England does 
not now exceed 15,000 and as the commons are enclosed and the 
land brought into cultivation, they are gradually losing the spots 
on which they have so long pitched their tents and lighted their 
camp-fires. In some sections of the country in both England and 
Scotland, particularly in the latter, they have intermarried with the 
rural population and become much assimilated in manners and 
customs. When about to leave, one of the girls was brought for- 
ward (she was not over fifteen years of age) and sang with consid- 
erable taste and power "The Gypsy's Tent," commencing as fol- 
lows : 

u Our fire on the turf, and our tent 'neath a tree — 

Carousing by moonlight, how merry are we ! 

Let the lord boast his castle, the baron his hall, 

But the house of the gypsy is widest of all. 

We may shout o'er our cups, and laugh loud as we will, 

Till echo rings back from wood, welkin, and hill; 

No joys seem to us like the joys which are lent 

To the wanderer's life and the gypsy 's tent." 

Rewarding the sun-burnt denizen of nature with a few pence, 
we left by a path leading to Pembroke Lodge. 

When visiting Scotland in 1852, we had the pleasure to meet 
Lord John Russell, who had recently resigned the seals of office 
as Premier. He was driven to this course by the unpopularity of 
his ecclesiastical titles bill, and the secession of his old colleague, 



42 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Viscount Palmerston. Aggrieved at the course of events, he had 
sought in the bracing air and marvelous variety of scenery in Cal- 
edonia, some relief from the bitterness and melancholy which 
seized upon him as his policy failed ; his old friends dropped off, 
and enemies arose out of the darkness, as pigmies wax bold when 
a giant falls. 

An admirer of his liberal principles, political and religious, like 
a few of his British party friends, who loved him well and stood 
staunchly by him to the last, in good and evil report, we never 
wavered in our respect for Lord John. His course from 1861-65, 
when Foreign Secretary, did not meet our approval in so far as it 
referred to America's relations with Great Britain. At this period, 
when disappointed and irritated at his management of the foreign 
office, in connection with American affairs, we spoke of his Lord- 
ship in far from complimentary terms. It was unbecoming in us 
and unjust to him. His foreign policy was then, in our opinion, 
liable to grave objections, whether considered with reference to 
British or American interests. Time has entirely changed 
this opinion. Now, that there is no longer passion to cloud the 
reason, may the manes of the deceased statesman be appeased by 
this frank avowal. 

During the many years that we were on one side of the Atlantic 
and Earl Russell upon the other, our time occupied with private 
affairs, and he controlling with consummate ability the destinies of 
the British Empire, we never lost sight of him. Immediately on 
our return to Europe in 1861, we met him again, not through re- 
lations established with the British Foreign Office by Mr. Yancey 
or Col. Mann, then resident agents of the Confederacy in London, 
but through Sir William and Lady Hutt, with whom we had form- 
ed cordial relations, which soon ripened into affectionate friendship. 
For months during the season, we met him almost daily at the 
houses of mutual friends. Sir William was a member of the Cabi- 
net, being Vice President of the board of trade and M. P. for 
Gibside, and the life long friend of Lord John. Lady Hutt was a 
member of the Walpole family, and thus a cousin of Lady 
Francis Russell, the wife of Earl Russell's younger brother, Lord 
Francis Russell, R. N., and daughter of the late Rev. 
Algernon Peyton, D. D., Dean of Ely, by his wife, Lady 
Mary Walpole, daughter of Horatio. Earl of Oxford. Lady 
Hutt's connection with the Bedford family, and her kinship to the 
Peytons, caused the Hutts to take no small interest in us, which 
they exhibited at this time and during the long period of our so- 
journ in England, by innumerable acts of hospitality and kindness. 
Lady Hutt always claimed us as an 'American cousin,' a claim which 
we good humoredly allowed without an appeal to family records. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 43 

Their disinterested friendship caused us to feel much less solitary 
and more secure than would otherwise have been possible, and 
contributed much to the pleasure of our sojourn in England, and 
to our travels on the continent, when we crossed the channel to- 
gether to enjoy an "outing" in beautiful France 

In another place we have spoken of Earl Russell as an eminent 
man, author, statesman and diplomatist, but better acquaintance 
with him considerably modified our early impressions. We had 
recently visited him — a visit the details of which we shall spare 
the reader who cannot be much interested in the way in which 
one gentleman meets another in his family, or in which a man eats 
his dinner with the assistance of half a dozen footmen and a butler. 
This visit to Richmond, however, furnishes the opportunity for a 
more extended notice of him than has appeared in "The American 
Crisis," and which few men more richly deserve. We can give 
the salient points in his character and career very much as we re- 
ceived them from Sir William Hutt and others, partly now and 
partly at subsequent periods. 

After his last retirement from office, Earl Russell took up his 
Residence at Pembroke Lodge, in Richmond Park, which was 
granted to him for life by favor of the Queen. Since he has led a 
secluded life, taking little interest in what is said or done by the 
outside world, and had perhaps less knowledge of the general 
public and of the men who most influence their fellows, than any 
political leader has had during the present century. Here he was 
passing his old age, hale, hearty, affable, resigned to its condition, 
thoroughly experienced, philosophic, full of judgment, learning 
and sobriety. It is here that he met, during the recesses of Parlia- 
ment, the small coterie of whom he was the especial favorite ; and 
the leaders of that old whig party of which he was at once the 
historian, the centre and the traditional idol. Few, if any, of the 
public men of the country have been more mixed up with the 
political affairs of the nation during the last forty years than Earl 
Russell. None of these notabilities have rendered more important 
services to their parties, yet we have not found one of his contem- 
poraries, and we have conversed with many of them, willing to 
admit that he is an eminent statesman and still less a great man. 
In reference to his public career it is said that it was no evidence 
whatever of his possessing, fine parts. That some of the most 
momentous events in English history occurred under and were 
controlled by the feeblest and most insignificant minds known to 
her parliamentary annals. That the majority of the cabinets who 
directed and often misdirected Wellington throughout the Penin- 
sular, he who won Waterloo, imprisoned Napoleon, partitioned 
Kurope and disposed of the fortunes and nationalities of millions 



44 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

of the human race all over the world — the Bexleys, Sidmouths, 
Vansittarts, Bathursts, Liverpools and the rest — were miserable 
mediocrities, execrated for their mingled feebleness and ferocity 
while living, and despised when dead, "forgotten as fools or re- 
membered as worse," as the satirist says in his lines on Sheridan, 
who was the victim of these malignant incompetents. 

Whatever may be said by the rivals and contemporaries of Earl 
Russell, all impartial men will agree in the opinion that his abili- 
ties, if not of the first, are ot a very high order, almost raising their 
possessor to the rank of genius. One of his marked characteristics, 
said Sir Wm. Hutt, is caution, still he has always had the reputa- 
tion among friends and foes of being rash, headstrong, self-willed 
and indifferent to consequences, provided he can carry, or thinks he 
can carry his point. It was this reputation which caused the cele- 
brated remark of Sidney Smith that Lord John would undertake 
the command of the Channel fleet or the most difficult operation 
in surgery with equal sangfroid, such was his self sufficiency and 
precipitancy, Nothing could be be more unjust than this estimate 
of his character. Though he has occasionally given utterance 
to indiscreet phrases and indulged in intemperate language, 
a retrospect of his career will show that he has always been pru- 
dent and pains taking. The best evidence of this is the fact that 
at an early age he was put forward by his party, the old Whigs of 
the Holland House School, as the conductor or manager of the 
leading questions of the time. To discharge the duties of this 
position required rare powers, and among the most essential of 
them was supposed to be those of a good debater. For forty 
years he took the lead and obtained the ear of the House of Com- 
mons, discharging the duties of his responsible position with suc- 
cess, though he has no pretentions whatever to eloquence, or what 
is called in America, fine speaking. As a speaker he has had to 
contend with physical difficulties of the most discouraging descrip- 
tion—a small, insignificant and undignified presence ; petite, inex- 
pressive and common-place features ; a harsh, dissonant and mo- 
notonous voice; an embarrassed, ungainly, confused, stammering, 
yet didactic and somewhat pragmatical manner; all these made 
up the aggregate drawbacks to his rhetorical success. Yet he 
overcame them all and for a score of years, led the House of 
Commons, which is regarded in England as the most fastidious 
audience in the world, but which in reality does not excel in its 
acumen our own House of Representatives. During the long 
period since his first entrance into public life, he has figured 
prominently in connection with every public measure of import- 
ance, has held together his party with matchless skill, always kept 
an eagle's eye on his opponents, never gave them an advantage, 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 45 

was always on the lookout for their weak point, and rarely missed 
an opportunity of inflicting upon them a. serious political injury. 
Such are the rare qualities which have enabled him so long to 
maintain himself at the head of the liberal party. However his 
rivals may ridicule his shortcomings in comprehensive legislation; 
however intellectual radicals may sneer at his mental and literary 
deficiencies; however economists may object to his multiplication 
of places for proteges of his own family ; whatever general excep- 
tions may be taken to him ; as a tactitian and party leader he had 
no rival in his day; hence in hours of disaster the liberals still 
instinctively turn to him. He never appears so well as when sur- 
rounded by obstacles, difficulties and impediments ; is always 
greater in opposition than when in office at the head of a trium- 
phant party. Notwithstanding his external frigidity and apathetic 
hauteur, there is about him, when you get to know him, and 
especially in his own home, a great deal of geniality and kindness 
of feeling. His adversaries declare that he is a politician in con- 
tradistinction to a statesman, the first belonging to that numerous 
class who are constantly thinking of what the country will do for 
them, while the latter belong to that class of patriots who are ever 
thinking of what they can do for the country. There is more 
satire than veracity in this witticism when applied to the Right 
Honorable Earl. A close examination into the history of his 
public career has satisfied us that there is little in Earl Russell's 
course to justify this severe judgment, nor do we believe it will be 
that of a non-partizan and passionless posterity- 

At the early period of his life when he essayed to attain fame as 
a dramatic writer and poet, his personal friend, Tom Moore, dedi- 
cated to him some verses in which the immortal bard undertook 
to persuade his lordship to leave Parnassus and stick to Parliament; 
at the same time he reminded him of the responsibilities which 
attached to the house of Russell. It is not known whether Moore 
was envious of Lord John's frequent draughts at the fount of 
poesy, or whether he really believed his friend was never likely 
to become a favorite with the muses, and in kindness to his liter- 
ary infirmities, tendered him gentle reproofs in poetry, on which 
he could not venture in person. The lines, however, had the effect 
of chastening down Lord John's exhuberant taste for metre — his 
poetic mantle was soon thrown aside and exchanged for the digni- 
fied robe of the legislator. 

Earl Russell was born in 1792 and entered Parliament as a mem- 
ber for the "rotten borough" of Tavistock in 1814 ; in 1820 he was 
member for the Huntingdonshire ; for the town of Bandon in Ire- 
land in 1830, and for Devonshire in 1831, which seat he vacated 
in 1834, on his appointment to the office of Secretary for the Home 



46 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Department, and was the guiding spirit of Lord Melbourne's ad- 
ministration. From 184* to 1846, whilst Sir Robert Peel was in 
power, Lord John Russell led the opposition, and on the defeat of 
Peel this year succeeded to the Premiership, which he held until 
1852. In office, he showed an indisposition to take the initiative 
in any marked measure of progress and advancement. As a 
consequence, he could only depend on a small and uncertain ma- 
jority in Parliament ; and the inefficiency of his ecclesiastical titles 
bill, accompanied, nearly at the same time, by the secession of his 
colleague, Lord Palmerston, forced him into retirement. Under 
the administration of Lord Aberdeen, he was Foreign Secretary 
for a short time and then Lord President of the Council. Lord 
Palmerston now became Premier, and in 1855 appointed Lord John 
Colonial Secretary, and he represented England at the Vienna 
Conferences, and in consequence of the dissatisfaction caused by 
his diplomatic course, again resigned. In 1859 he resumed office 
under Palmerston as Minister for Foreign affairs, and bore a con- 
spicuous part in the solution of the important questions which oc- 
curred in political affairs in different parts of the world. Amongst 
these may be mentioned the protests made by the British govern- 
ment to that of Russia against the oppressions practiced on the 
Poles; its endeavors to deter the great German powers from pur- 
suing an aggressive policy towards Denmark, and the disputes 
which arose between England and the United States during the 
civil war. It must be admitted, with reference to some of these 
vexed questions, that however unsuccessful the efforts of England 
may have been, through the backwardness of allies, in averting the 
evils it sought to counteract, the sincerity of its intentions, as evin- 
ced in its diplomatic action under the auspices of Earl Russell, 
has been clearly manifest. We, therefore, who felt at the time, or 
now feel, any bitterness towards the mother country for her course 
towards the South during the civil war — her apparent want of 
sympathy— should now, that the hour of passion has passed, be 
ready to unite in according to her the meed of praise for having 
been wiser in that great crisis than we ourselves were 

During his active political life, such was his patient, persevering 
industry, that he contributed largely to the literature of the day. 
Among his best known works are his Life of Lord William Rus- 
sell, his Miscellaneous Essays and "Memories of the Affairs of 
Europe," "A Concise History of the British Constitution," "The 
Nun of Arvouca, a tale," and a tragic drama styled "Don Carlos." 
His most recent work composed during his retirement, is entitled 
The Rise and Progress of the Christian Religion in the West of 
Europe, from the reign of Tiberius to the end of the Council of 
Trent. This work illustrates how happily and usefully the even- 






RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 47 

ing of his days was passed, how far he was removed from those 
discontented, querulous, ill-conditioned, gouty old men, who ludi- 
crously contend against the grave— a burden to themselves and a 
nuisance to all around. He did not indulge in the vain regrets of 
those who regard death as the "evil day." Death, he knew, could 
not be staved off, however our energies may be economized, that 
in the end we are all brought to bay ; there is no more thread on 
the reel ; for the fates together have spun the whole web of our 
existence and there is an end. The ancients lamented old age 
and the grave, because not believing in the immortality of the soul, 
there was no hope beyond it — nothing but everlasting night. 
When the flower of youth is passed, says one of the pagans, it is 
better to die at once, and he prayed that he might be struck dead 
at sixty. These unnatural pagan sentiments exaggerate the value 
of bodily strength and animal spirits, the joy of the wine cup and 
the delights of love. They evince an imperfect idea of the pleas- 
ures of matured intellect, of calm sagacity and of that tranquil 
wisdom which looks before and after without terror and without 
excessive regrets. Christianity corrects by its sublime teachings 
alike the pagan's morbid love of youth and his dread of old age. 
And Earl Russell lived and died an humble, sincere and pious 
Christian. 

Before leaving Richmond, where we had passed so many happy 
hours, and which we have since revisited many a time, with the 
old pleasure, a word more must be ventured as to its past. 

In the early part of the last century it was much frequented as 
a watering place. A mineral spring in the park was supposed to 
possess valuable curative elements. Both pleasure seekers and 
invalids were attracted to its gay halls and life giving streams. 
Grand hotels, pump rooms, baths, squares, terraces and crescents 
were erected or laid out in eligible and commanding situations. 
The son of a dead baron, or some such sprig of nobility, was al- 
ways installed as master of ceremonies, and an eminent rural M. 
D., the cousin of a living Viscount, if such could be had, as well 
doctor as an analytic chemist, was sure to receive from the man- 
aging committee the appointment of resident physician. Dowa- 
ger whist players, half pay officers, old maids, fortune hunters, 
widows without fortunes, but ready for the matrimonial game, 
people of good family and questionable morals flocked to Rich- 
mond Spa. 

This is now all changed. The spring still flows, but seems to 
have lost its virtues; and in Richmond's palmy days was proba- 
bly more "doctored" with tinctures of iron and sulphur than were 
the shaky valetudinarians who here resorted for the tonic or aper- 
ient waters. 



48 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

The grand houses of the past are now business places, and steady 
going people replace thejackanaps and Jack-a-dandies, simper- 
ing maids and old blades of 1750. 

No intelligent foreigner in London fails to visit Richmond, 
either to enjoy the scenic beauties of the park or dissipate the 
spleen by its water, which, if without mineral ingredients, are 
much purer than those of the Metropolis; or to enliven the im- 
agination and improve the understanding by learning the associa- 
tions of the place and reviving the instructive history of the past. 



CHAPTER V. 



WINDSOR CASTLE, PAST AND PRESENT — GEORGE IV— THE LAWLESS 

LORDS OF OTHER DAYS — THE ROYAL STABLES — 

THE PARKS, ETC. 



A friend, who is ever ready to impart information in an agree- 
able way, has recently expressed the opinion, in our hearing, that 
we love pleasure. The innocent lamb may prefer work, but not 
the straying sheep. A man of nice perceptions, our jidus Achates, 
rarely fails in a diagnosis. We do not cousider it worth while, 
therefore, to deny the "soft impeachment." Yet we would not 
have our reader imagine that we love nothing but pleasure be- 
cause, instead of returning to the dingy atmosphere of London, 
We shall penetrate forthwith deeper into the country, and possibly 
to the heart of the Royal county of Berks. 

During the annual absences of the Queen, the State apartments 
in Windsor Castle are thrown open to the public, and joining the 
"madding crowd" of sight seers, we bade adieu to Richmond, and 
made the best of our way to this ancient seat of British Royalty. 
No season could have been more favorable for our excursion. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 49' 

The trees were in leaf and the country clothed in verdure. Pleas- 
ant parks, well cultivated fields, quiet homesteads and patches of 
common and garden enlivened and beautified the landscapes on 
the entire route. The sky was of a sweet opaline blue— some- 
thing one does not see every day in England. Looking out upon 
the Heavens and the earth, we came near startling our neighbors 
in the railway carriage, by exclaiming, how pleasant to live some- 
times ! 

But the train stops. Our dream is fulfilled ; there stands the 
Round Tower; in a moment we are hastening to the Palace gates. 
We stop to scan the exterior of the building, we run through it, 
we return and linger to study it, and feel when it is over a certain 
sense of disappointment. 

The castle is an old stone edifice, with turrets and battlements 
more like an antique fortress in exterior appearance than a do- 
mestic habitation. Has somewhat the cold and sombre aspect of 
a prison, and its gaunt buttresses and dim archways, and high and 
broad ramparts plainly tell the history of its feudal origin. The 
narrow, meanly built streets of the town of Windsor extend on one 
side to the very gates, and the visitor emerges from them to pass 
immediately into the palace court. But for its situation on a 
lofty hill and the surrounding park and forest, with its wild and 
picturesque scenery, Windsor Castle would be the most cheerless 
and unattractive of homes, though it has been much modernized 
and has so many of the adjuncts of domestic life, that its appear- 
ance has ceased to create the idea of one of those rugged fort- 
resses destined solely for war, whose gloomy towers suggest to 
the imagination only dungeons, chains and executions. Neverthe- 
less, it carries us back to the time when anarchy and violence 
glowered over England , to the age of the Norman and of feudal- 
ism, when there was no distinction but that of soldier and serf. 
To the time when the fair-haired and blue-eyed Saxon was 
crushed by his haughty Norman conqueror, and who, while bi- 
ding his time, breathed against his oppressor curses not loud but 
deep. Windsor, as it now stands, and regarded as a simple spec- 
imen of its particular style of architecture, is unequalled in Eng- 
land for grandeur and magnificence. 

This spot, we are told, was selected as a residence by William 
the Conqueror, who was drawn to the neighboring forest by his 
fondness for the chase. The country now embraced in the Royal 
county, was then as famous for wild boars, as it now is for Berk- 
shire pigs. William I., built, according to tradition, a rude fort- 
ress on the spot occupied by the present edifice, and that or some 
other Royal building occupied the ground till the 14th century 
when the existing castle was erected. The old building had gone 



50 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

much to decay when George IV. awoke to the fact that it Was the 
only specimen of a Royal Palace of any antiquity or pretentions 
in England, and determined to preserve it, if for no other reason 
than as a memorial of the past. Accordingly the government in 
1824 undertook its restoration and spent on the work — so says the 
guide book — ^900,000. An idea may be formed of its extent 
from this fact. From that time it has been the country residence 
of the Royal family (it causes Berkshire to be styled the Royal 
county ;) though the Queen has from her enormous wealth — she 
is said to be the richest woman in Europe — secured several more 
congenial country seats, one, Osborne, in the Isle of Wight and 
the other Balmoral, in the Highlands of Scotland. The latter was 
built at the request, so it is said, of Prince Albert, a man of good 
sense and much taste, not like a castle, but after the modern style 
of a gentleman's residence. 

On the north side of Windsor Castle the State apartments are 
situated and consist of nine large rooms in a suite, the first be- 
ing the Queen's grand audience and the last, Her Majesty's grand 
presence chamber. We could see no particular reason why they 
should be so styled, though like the rooms of all palaces they are 
capacious and abound in gilt. They are approached by a wide 
stone stair case, the grand stair-way of course, which is gaudily 
painted with fabulous stories from Ovid's Metamorphasis, and at 
the head of which stands a stature of George IV. whose great am- 
bition was to be styled, as he was on the slenderest possible 
grounds, "the first gentleman in Europe " 

George IV. was one of the most wretched specimens of a man 
who ever existed on or off a throne, uniting in himself the sot, 
dissembler and roue. The late Sir George Jackson, in his re- 
cently published volumes, photographs the life of the early part of 
the present century. He speaks of the Prince of Wales in 1804 
(afterwards George IV.) and of an illness which arose from the 
fact that the Prince and the Duke of Norfolk had been so drunk 
for three whole days, that the former at last fell like a pig, and 
would have died like one, but for prompt and copious bleeding. 
How rude the "first gentleman" could be when he chose, even to 
his wife, is well known. At a drawing room, held by Queen Char- 
lotte in June, 1807, when the Prince and Princess of Wales were 
present, he took no notice of the Princess. Turning his back 
upon her, he stood between her and the Queen, and as long 
as the Princess remained he kept up a conversation with his sis- 
ters, thereby preventing them from addressing a word to his wife. 
This feeling against his wife he paraded everywhere. He was jeal- 
ous of her popularity — quite unnecessarily, for she made herself 
ridiculous, and the subject of scornful criticism, by her lavish dis- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 51 

play at evening parties of her protuberant beauties. At these par- 
ties the Prince would stare at ladies whom he knew, without speak- 
ing to them. His condescending speech was addressed only to 
his first wife, Mrs. Fitzherbert and her sister, Lady Hagerstone. 
The first of these ladies lived at Brighton with the state of a Queen 
and the spirit of a goddess of mirth. Meanwhile, his Royal High- 
ness flirted with "his future Duchess," the Marchioness of Hert- 
ford. He knew how to play a good part at times. In 1811 he 
gave a grand fete at Carlton House at which Louis XVIII and the 
sad looking Duchess of Angouleme appeared. The Prince re- 
ceived Louis as a Sovereign de facto. "I am only a Count of 
Lille," said Louis modestly. "Sir," said the Prince, "you are the 
King of France and Navarre," and he treated his guest according- 
ly. Both the Prince's wives, Mrs. Fitzherbert and the Princess of 
Wales were at home by themselves, but the favorite of the hour 
was commanded to attend. It cannot be denied that English so- 
ciety needed refinement in the first decade of the present century. 
And I may add, some of the foreign society was quite as free and 
easy. 

We never think of George IV without the caustic lines of 
Thackeray recurring to memory. "I try to take him to pieces and 
find silk stockings, paddings, stays, a coat with frogs and a fur col- 
lar, a star and blue ribbon, a pocket handkerchief prodigiously 
scented, one of Truefitts best nutty brown wigs reeking with oil, a 
set of teeth and a huge black stock, un6*erwaistcoats, more under- 
waistcoats and then nothing. There was nothing of him but a 
grin and a bow." 

But we will never get through Windsor if we linger after this 
fashion before a statue, even though it be that of a Monarch. The 
ceilings of all the suite, constituting the State apartments, are paint- 
ed in imitation of fresco by Antonio Verrio, an Itallian artist in- 
vited to England by Charles II. He is little known to fame but 
made a fortune decorating Palace walls. His forte consisted in 
painting gods, goddesses, nymphs, naiades and the whole host of 
heathen mythology, in the brightest colors and the most extraor- 
dinary attitudes Instead of giving this fabulous host the graceful 
attitudes of divinities, they are oftener represented as semi- 
nude and sprawling in all sorts of grotesque contortions. The 
general effort of Verrio's pencil, however, is decidedly ornament- 
al. These rooms are furnished obviously at great cost, and are 
elaborately decorated with paintings, many of which have faded, 
with gobelin tapestry, wearing the appearance of having been moth 
eaten, and with much statuary etc. They look, on the whole, 
more like public galleries than as if they had ever been the scenes 
of private life and domestic comfort. There could be nothing 



52 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

really comfortable in them. No fire, however large, could heat 
them, and as for preventing draughts, it would be impossible with- 
out sealing them up. It is not surprising then that the Queen has 
provided herself with modern mansions. 

In one of the apartments our eyes were attracted by a portrait, 
taken from life, of Mary Queen of Scots. Mary was a lovely 
woman, with an expression of great sweetness and sincerity of 
character She is represented as holding a crucifix in her right 
hand and in her left a breviary. The painting bears a lengthy and 
high-flown Latin inscription which in substance represents her to 
have been by right Princess and legitimate heiress of England and 
Ireland, as tormented by the heresies of her people, overcome by 
rebellions, and deceived by her relation, Queen Elizabeth, perfid- 
iously detained a prisoner for nineteen years, until the English 
Parliament, stimulated by religious animosities, by an inhuman 
sentence condemned her to death, when on the 18th of February, 
1587, she was beheaded by the common executioner in the 45th 
year of her age and of her reign. 

The next room, of elegant dimensions, is the dining room, or Wa- 
terloo chamber, as it is called, from the fact that William IV gave din- 
ners in it in commemoration of the victory of the 18th of[une,i8i5, 
surrounded by all the surviving commanders who took part in that 
famous battle It is the repository, too, for the portraits of all 
those connected with the memorable field. Among these portraits 
is one of George IV, who'is said to have — under a hallucination 
of mind— affirmed that he was present at the battle, and to have 
repeated the tale so frequently that he finally came to believe it 
himself. On one occasion, having appealed to the Duke of Wel- 
lington, His Grace, with infinite presence of mind replied, "Sire, I 
have often enjoyed the honor of hearing your majesty relate the 
anecdote." The banqueting hall or State dining room is, says the 
Hand Book, "two hundred and thirty-four feet long, thirty-four 
feet broad and thirty- two feet high." which we are prepared to 
believe and accordingly take on credit. The ceiling is emblazoned 
with the armorial bearings of all the Knights of the Garter, from 
the institution of the order down to the present time, all dead, all 
buried, all forgotten. How can one look upon these records with- 
out a cloud of melancholy stealing over the heart. 

At the eastern end of the gallery stands the throne. The guard 
room is full of ancient relics in the way of old armor hanging from 
the walls, warlike and sporting implements of different ages and 
countries, the whole furnishing food for curious and amusing spec- 
ulation. The last of the rooms exhibited is the Queen's presence 
chamber, a capacious apartment much like the others. 

Of course nothing like a description can be attempted of the 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 53 

decorations and furniture, articles of virtu, etc., in or about the 
castle, nor would such a catalogue interest any but a guide book 
compiler, or a cockney reporter of the Jenkins type. 

Passing into the court yard on the way to the chapel and look- 
ing upon the old castle, around which the ivy twined its solemn 
arms, we could but reflect upon how many a venerable pile time 
has moulded into beauty, which in the day of its power was only 
terrible! The age of chivalry seemed to pass before us, the turf to 
heave beneath our feet, strange vibrations seem to run along the 
dead that slumber there, and forth they come again, with their 
stern, earnest faces ; the mailed warrior, the representative of an age 
long passed away — the white stoled priest, the minister of the old 
faith; the serf with the wassail bowl.and the most strange and eccen- 
tric of all, the rude jester of the old baronial hall. For a moment they 
all live again, while we catch once more rude snatches of their mirth 
and music, revelry and song. Such is the poetry of an old castle, of 
an old baronial ruin ! In the days of the castle and baron, however, 
they were terrible things. In the age of King Stephen, A. D., 1 134- 
1158, when the Barons exerted their greatest power and indulged 
in unlimited feudal insolence and feudal tyranny — an age of castles 
— when 1,500 were built and garrisoned, all the laws of God and 
man were trampled under foot, and the castle was little else than 
the stronghold of robbers and highwaymen. "Every rich man 
made his castles" (says that old chronicler, John of Salisbury ,)"and 
held them against the King, and the land was filled with castles. 
Grievously they oppressed the people with their castle works. — 
When the castles were made, they filled them with devils and evil 
men and then they seized every one who was supposed to have 
any property — man and woman, both by day and night, and put 
them in prison for their gold and silver, and punished them with 
such inexpressible torments as none of the martyrs ever suffered. 
They hung them by the feet and smoked them with foul smoke ; 
and they hung them by the thumbs or by the head and hung fire 
to their feet ; they put knotted cords about their heads and twist- 
ed them till they pierced their brains. They put some in dungeons 
where were adders, and snakes, and toads, and so tormented them. 
Others they placed in a Crucet House, that is a chest which was 
short, and narrow and shallow, and they put in sharp stones, and 
pressed people in them till all their limbs were broken. In many 
of the castles were things very horrible and hateful— these were 
"Lachantages," that were as much as two or three men could lift, 
and they were so contrived that the man was fastened to a beam 
with sharp iron about his throat or neck, that he could neither sit 
nor lie down, nor sleep, but was always compelled to support that 
weight. Many they tormented with hunger. I cannot tell all the 

(14) 



54 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

sufferings and all the torments which the wretched people bore du- 
ring the nineteen years of Stephen's reign. They laid tributes 
upon towns, and when the wretched people had no more to give, 
they ravaged and burnt all the towns, so that you might go a long 
day's journey and not find a man dwelling in the town, or the land 
tilled. Then was corn, and flesh, and cheese, and butter dear." 

Some may be inclined to regard this as an exaggerated account. 
Far from it. It is matter of history, that during the reign of 
Stephen, England presented one continued scene of confusion and 
bloodshed. David, King of Scotland, espoused the cause of his 
niece, Matilda, daughter of Henry I, youngest son of the conquer- 
or ; by his wife Matilda, daughter of Malcolm III, of Scotland, 
and niece of Edgar Atheling. This marriage united the Saxon 
and Norman lines. Henry I usurped the dukedom of Norman- 
dy, and by this act, brought England into collision with France 
and laid the foundation of the wars which ensued. Matilda, niece 
of David, was the widow of Henry V, Emperor of Germany, and 
David invaded England to maintain her right; he was defeated at 
the battle of the Standard, but Matilda, who soon landed in Eng- 
land, was acknowledged by the clergy, but during the civil wars 
was expelled. It was during these times of civil commotion and 
wars for the succession that castles multiplied in England and the 
land was desolated by the rival barons and their retainers. 

Such having been the condition of affairs during the reign of 
Stephen, we are not surprised when our chronicler adds "many 
abandoned their country, others forsaking their houses, built 
wretched huts in the churchyards, hoping for protection from the 
sacred character of the place. Whole families, after sustaining 
life as long as they could by eating roots, herbs, dogs, and horses, 
perished at last with hunger, and you might see many pleasant 
villages without one inhabitant of either sex. In this King's time 
all was dissension and evil, and rapine. The great men rose against 
him they had sworn to support, but with whom they maintained 
no truth. They built castles which they held out against him," 

This is the poetry of old castles to which we flock in the pres- 
ent day with such eager curiosity, over which we indulge in so 
much sentiment. 

From the State departments we proceeded to St. George's Chapel, 
which stands on the spot of the ancient edifice, built by Edward 
III in honor of St. George of Cappadocia, Primate of Egypt in 
the fourth century, and Patron saint of England. St. George was 
put to death by the Pagans of Alexandria. Though he gave them 
ample provocation still having been slain by detested Pagans, it 
was enough, with a little legendary coloring, to make him a mar- 
tyr. The crusaders read of him in their calendars and martyrolo- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 55 

gies, and under the winning appellation of St. George the Victori- 
ous, he was installed among the Christians of the East. These 
circumstances and the assistance which they imagined they had 
received from the beatified St. George, at the siege of Antioch, led 
them to adopt him as the patron of soldiers and tutelar saint of 
England. He was, as one tradition avers, in reality a Cappado- 
cian tanner, but be this as it may, he has been for many a century 
a favorite with all sorts and conditions of Englishmen, thus — 

''Our ancient word of courage, fair St. George !" 

was the invocation of the fierce Crook-Back upon his last battle 
field of Bosworth, and Shakespeare, with strong, double-edged 
wit, makes the bold bastard Falconbridge refer to him, as 

"St. George who swinged the dragon, and e'er since 

Sits upon horseback at mine hostess door." 

On entering the chapel, our admiration was excited by the 
beauty of the architecture, which is elaborately ornate. In one of 
the chapels is the beautiful cenotaph of the Princess Charlotte, the 
unhappy daughter of George IV. Here are buried a long line of 
Royal personages and illustrious heroes "by all their country's 
wishes blessed." While lingering among the tombs, Addison's 
beautiful lines recurred to memory: "When I see Kings lying by 
those who deposed them ; when I consider rival wits placed side 
by side ; or the holy that divide the world with their contests and 
disputes, I reflect with sorrow and astonishment on the little 
competitions and debates of mankind ; when I read the several 
dates of the tombs, of some that died yesterday, and some six 
hundred years ago, I consider that great day when we shall all of 
us be cotemporaries and make our appearance together." 

In allusion to the fact that the rival Kings of York and Lan- 
caster sleep here, side by side, Pope wrote : 

"Let softest strains ill-fated Henry mourn, 
And palms eternal flourish round his urn ; 
Here o'er the martyr King the marble weeps, 
And, fast beside him. once fear'd Edward sleep*, 
Whom not the extended Albion could contain, 
From old Bolerium to the German main. 
The grave unites, where e'en the great find rest, 
And blended lie the oppressor and the oppress'd." 

. The choir portion of the chapel is appropriated to the perform- 
ance of divine service and the ceremony of installing the. Knights 
of the Garter. The stalls of the Knights are arranged on either 
side of the choir — over each stall are mantle, sword, helmet and 



56 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

crest of the Knight by whom it is occupied. Above these is the 
banner on which are his armorial bearings and at the back of the 
seat, on engraved brass plates, are recorded his name, style and 
titles. The brass plates of former occupants for centuries are pre- 
served as a perpetual record of the distinguished honor each has 
in his lifetime borne ; amongst them is that of Sigismund, Emperor 
of Germany in 1418, Casimer IV, King of Poland, in 145 1, and 
Robert Peyton, who assumed the surname of UfTord and was Earl of 
Suffolk in 1349, who was one of the founders of the Order. 

George III and IV and William IV all died at Windsor and lie 
in the Royal Dormitory, to the east of St. George's Chapel, where 
all the members of the Royal family who have died in England 
have been placed since its application to the purposes of a mauso- 
leum, with the exception of the Duke of Sussex, who, at his own 
request, was buried in Kensal Green Cemetery, and the unhappy 
queen, wife of George IV, who was removed to Brunswick. One 
cannot visit such a spot, rile with royalty in its ruins, without its 
suggesting the moral of the poet ; "The glories of our blood are 
shadows, not substantial things." It sinks deep into our souls that 
God is "no respecter of persons," and there is "no king saved by 
the multitude of an host." Such visits seem to urge the admoni- 
tion upon the mighty and the lowly, "Be wise now, O ye kings ; 
be instructed, ye judges of the earth. Serve the Lord with fear 
and rejoice with trembling." It is ''appointed unto all men once 
to die :" but after death the judgment ! The mind is startled 
from the engrossing pursuits, the cares and anxieties of this world, 
and we apply these texts in all their force. How impressively do 
they counsel the wisdom of seeking pardon and peace from that 
Saviour by whom alone we are saved. 

On the next morning we attended service at St. George's 
Chapel and saw a number of the gallant veterans called the "Mili- 
tary Knights of Windsor," who have residences in the immediate 
vicinity of the castle and small annual pensions. The only duty 
imposed upon them being a regular attendance at church and con- 
stant prayer for the prosperity of the sovereign. 

There are two parks at Windsor. The little park nearest the 
castle, contains 500 acres, which is enclosed by a brick wall. It 
is studded with clumps of trees and abounds in promenades, the 
finest being the "long walk," which is lined with elms. Here are 
the Queen's stables, wherein, like those of Branksome Castle, "a 
hundred steeds feed free in stall." These stables, plain and sub- 
stantial, are built on the most approved plan for securing fresh air, 
light and uniform temperature, for the comfort of the animals. 
The heat is regulated by a thermometer and is not allowed to 
rise above 65 Far., or to sink below 50. The system of ventila- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 57 

tion is by openings near the ceilings, constructed so as to prevent 
a current of air from passing over the animals. The light is uni- 
form and without any glare, and the rooms are ceiled so as to 
prevent dust from the lofts getting into the eyes of the horses and 
the ascending gasses from lodging in the hay. The stalls are 
level and have clay floors — inclined stalls and plank floors have 
been universally abandoned in England, as they fatigue and iniure 
the horses. The stalls are roomy so as to encourage the animals 
to lie down, and no straw is ever put in them for bedding. 

The Queen keeps the full complement of forty carriages in dif- 
ferent styles and one hundred blooded horses for use while at 
Windsor. The kennels are near the stables, where Her Majesty's 
fancy dogs are kept, embracing almost every kind and variety of 
dog, foreign and native. It is a unique collection in which the 
Queen is said to take much interest. 

The dairy and farm buildings are extensive, and combine every 
accommodation and modern improvement. The great park con- 
tains 1800 acres and is much admired for its varied and picturesque 
scenery. This park was a famous place as early as the 12th cen- 
tury, when Henry II not only kept his deer here, as the legend 
goes, but "diverse strange beastes, which were sent unto hiine 
from foreigne countries farre distante, such as liones, lepardes, 
linxes and porkupines." 

The park is at present well stocked with deer and pheasants 
which furnish excellent shooting and a constant supply of game 
for the Queen's household. In this park lie the Home and Shaw 
farms, two of the model farms of Prince Albert. The only work 
of art in the park is a colossal equestrian statue of George III, 
which terminates the "long walk" at a distance of at least three 
miles from the castle. There is a handsome school building near 
the farms in which the children of the servants connected with the 
castle and property are educated. It was established by Prince 
Albert The boys receive a good English education and are in- 
structed in the practical operations of farming and gardening, 
while the girls are taught sewing, ornamental needle work and 
domestic affairs. 

In the southern extremity of the grounds lies the celebrated lake 
entitled Virginia Water, the lovely natural scenery of which has 
been heightened by the aid of art. A road has been constructed 
around the lake, so that all the best views may be seen in an after- 
noon drive. The shade trees are principally larch, pine and fir. 

At the head of the lake the road crosses an embankment having 
a rustic stone fence on one side, covered with moss and ivy, and 
from which a road leads over a bridge across the water and to the 
Fishing temple, an elegant pavilion, surrounded by grounds or- 



(15) 



5 8 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

namented with fountains, flowers, plants and statuary. The roof 
is painted in various colors and ornamented with dragons and 
other grotesque figures. This building was erected for the use d[ 
George IV and those members of his family and household who 
were fond of angling. The lake is sufficiently large to admit of 
piscatorial amusements upon a large scale. In a romantic glen 
below the lake stands a fine ornamental ruin styled "the temple 
of the gods." 

The scenery here is singularly wild and sweet. It is a kind of 
sacred valley of delightful solitude, Which makes one dream of 
nymphs and shepherds. 

A more delightful country than that in the vicinity of Windsor 
we have nowhere looked upon. The scenery, though not roman- 
tic, is extremely pleasant. The winding Thames pursues its course 
through fertile meadows and well cultivated fields, with a back 
ground of sloping hills and woodland heights. A favorite resort 
of the pent-up denizens of London for a day's outing, a thought- 
ful man finds abundant material for study, whether wandering 
beneath the wide spreading trees of the parks, basking in the sun- 
shine of the castle walls or walking along the streets of the good, 
quiet town. Not only will the busy crowd of passers by, the scenes 
of excitement presented, and the incidents of each moment suggest 
reflection, but the houses will be as books with open leaves full of 
moral instruction and practical hints. Those dwelling places are 
proofs and expressions of ingenuity, skill and social' habits, and 
thus they illustrate the superior nature, the inventive mind, and 
the soul of sympathy and affection with which God has endowed 
man. How diversified are the habitations in architecture, style 
and appearance ! under what different circumstances, from what 
various motives, for what diversified ends were they planned and 
built? They remind one of the innumerable forms, the many 
tinted hues of man's condition, characteristics and feelings. What 
changes have occurred since the edifices were reared ! What a 
new era has dawned on our civilization since yonder time-worn 
mansion was raised ! How many have passed into eternity since 
then! What changeful aspects have the families within those 
walls presented from time to time ! People have come and gone, 
children have been born, parents have died ; the rooms ^have 
witnessed weddings and funerals, joys and sorrows. The contrast 
between the outward look of some of these abodes and the inner 
feelings of the occupants, how startling ! Here perhaps, where 
all seems so splendid, where many a proud equipage sweeps up 
to the door and powdered footmen rise at the rap, and distinguished 
visitors are announced and aristocratic names echo in the halls, 
hearts are wasting with ambition, envy, disappointment, fear. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 59 

shame, remorse ; whereas in yonder humble tenement, peace may- 
dwell, for "Faith shuts the door at night, and mercy opens it in 
the' morning." The houses of princes and peasants exhibit alike 
the same moral phenomena. 

Here we bid adieu to our didactics, to Windsor, the town and 
castle. Windsor Castle ! Its antiquities and its pleasantness can- 
not be comprehended in a visit. Its annals, memoirs, legends, 
would fill volumes and they must be pondered ere one can enter 
into the spirit and philosophy of its history, or understand the 
famous men who have figured in its courts. Let no one, however, 
be kept back from a visit — not even the bird of passage, or the 
summer tourist, for the visitor of a single day will see much to 
deeply interest, though he may see more that he does not under- 
stand. He will come away in any case with a fund of knowledge 
which, though a little mixed and undigested, is yet strangely 
pleasing. Stored up in the memory these experiences will con- 
stitute the agreeable musings of old age. If at times when recall- 
ing the past, melancholy should mingle with the retrospections, as 
is apt to be the case, it will be found to have something in it 
sweeter even than pleasure. 



CHAPTER VI. 



THE INAUGURATION OF THE SECOND WORLD'S FAIR IN LONDON — 

THE FINE ART DEPARTMENT — AMERICAN EXHIBITORS — 

LETTER TO THE TIMES — NEW-MADE FRIENDS. 



The opening of the great international exhibition of 1862 occur- 
red during our sojourn in London. The only notes"of this grand 
affair which we have are in the form of two brief letters 'to a friend 
in Virginia, from which we make the following' extracts : "The 
international exhibition was inaugurated in this place; onj the 1st 
of May. Nothing could have been more propitious" than the 
weather on the opening day. The sky was calm^'and^cloudless, 
the air bright and genial. For weeks before the ist, a continuous 



60 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

stream of visitors had been pouring into London from every 
quarter. The papers had already announced the arrival of Fred- 
erick William, Crown Prince of Prussia, of Prince Oscar of Swe- 
den and Queen Christiana, of Spain, with their respective suites. 
The Japanese Embassy was also here, minus the ubiquitous 
"Tommy," who created such a stir among the spinsters of New 
York ; there were commissioners from almost every country. It 
was apparent to me long before the opening day that this great 
and noble enterprise would be a complete success. 

I left my lodgings, 39 Bedford Square, about ten o'clock in the 
forenoon, and found the streets filled with gaily dressed people 
wending their way to the West-end. On reaching Hyde Park 
corner, I saw tens of thousands who had already assembled. 
Flags were suspended across the streets and floated from windows 
which were gracefully decorated with awnings and filled with 
cheerful faces. In the distance were seen the lofty domes of the 
exhibition building, enlivened by the flags of every nation. The 
procession of carriages with elegantly dressed ladies, extended 
from Apsley House (the Duke of Wellington's) in the direction 
of Brampton and the marble arch, far as the eye could reach. 
The road from Buckingham Palace up Constitution Hill was lined 
by a dense mass of human beings in holiday attire ; along the 
whole route detachments of horse guards in their brilliant uni- 
forms, and metropolitan police were interspersed through the 
crowd, the whole forming a scene of gaiety, excitement and con- 
fusion of the most pleasant and exhiliratin^ character. London 
was evidently in all her glory. 

Leaving the Park I took a position near the entrance of the 
building, where I had an excellent opportunity of observing the 
distinguished arrivals. The chief object of interest with the masses 
seemed to be the Queen's, or what was styled the Royal party, 
the Ministers of State and the Lord Mayor, and as each of these 
arrived, the delighted multitude loudly cheered — made the welkin 
ring. The coaches containing the Royal party were draped in 
black, and the occupants and servants were in deep mourning. 
The contrast presented by the mournful procession to the gay and 
brilliant equipages by which it was preceded was deeply impres- 
sive, and suggested many painful associations in connection with 
Prince Albert, with whom these enterprises — international exhibi- 
tions — originated. The Royal carriages contained Prince Fred- 
erick William, who wore the uniform of a Prussian General, and 
Prince Oscar of Sweden, with their respective suites. The Prince 
of Wales, whom it was hoped would be present and officiate in the 
opening ceremonies, in place of his father, was, to the general re- 
gret, absent in Egypt. It is said that he was sent abroad to divert 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 6 1 

his mind and heart from a young lady, the daughter of a distin- 
guished Cambridge barrister, with whom he became acquainted, 
and for whom he formed a passionate attachment while at the 
University, and with whom he wished to "link his fate" — the mar- 
riage act of George III to the contrary notwithstanding. 

The Royal party, government officials, distinguished foreigners 
and others to the number of about 30,000, having assembled in 
the building at one o'clock, the procession was formed in what 
was styled "Procession Court," and after a grand flourish of 
trumphets, took up the line of march for the spot from which the 
Exhibition was, with imposing ceremony, to be declared open. 

As the procession moved on, Lord Palmerston, who is a popu- 
lar favorite, was reoeatediy cheered, as also, Lord Derby, who is 
a feeble looking old man who gets along by the aid of a cane. 
Nothing could exceed the brilliancy of the spectacle presented by 
the moving crowd in which the uniforms of soldiers were mixed 
with the black gowns of the Judges and the white robes of the 
Doctors of music and the ten thousand hues of the ladies' Spring 
dresses. 

When the Commissioners had taken their seats the first verse of 
the National Anthem was sung by more than 2000 musicians, and 
then the special music composed for the occasion to the following 
appropriate words by Alfred Tennyson, Poet Laureate. 

Uplift a thousand voices full and sweet 

In this wide Hall with Earth's inventions stored 

And praise thee, Universal Lord, 

Who lets once more in peace the nations meet, 

Where science, art, and labour have outpour'd 

Their myriad horns of plenty at our feet. 

O, silent father of our King to be, 
Mourn' d in this golden hour of Jubilee, 
For this, for all we weep our thanks to thee I 

The world compelling plan was thine, 
And lo ! the long laborious miles 
Of Palace ; lo ! the giant aisles, 
Rich in model and design ; 
Harvest tool and husbandry, 
Loom and wheel and engin'ry, 
Secrets of the duller mine, 
Steel and gold, and corn and wine 
Fabric rough, or Fairy fine, 
Sunny tokens of the line, 

(16) 



62 

RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Polar marvels and a feast 

Of wonder, out of West and East, 

And shapes and hues of art divine'.' 

All of beauty, all of use 

That our fair planet can produce, 

Brought from under every star 

Blown from over every main, 

And mix't as life is mix't with pain 

The works of peace with the works'of war. 

O yes, the wise who think, the wise who reign 
From growmg commerce loose her latest chain, 
And let the fair white-winged peace-maker fly 
lo happy havens under all the sky 
And mix the seasons and the golden hours 
Till each man finds his own in all men's good, 
And al men work, in noble brotherhood, 
And ruling by obeying nature's powers 
And gathered all the fruits of peace and crown'd with all the flowers. 

h/re^ in which 

Prince Albert, and to the part cu a ■ W f ^"/j* the death of 
sioners of the exhibition^ the rr Z 7 s , tained h Y the Commis- 
Jar disappointment at the absence of Z O ^ an £ t0 the P°P U ' 
witli a brief history of the SI ? Queen ' , He deluded 
nation of the scheme fo h din" h e C'Tr^ W T ith the reali - 
Exhibition in England g SeCOnd Great International 

and common place after Jhti? .f ! y .'- but exce edino-ly dull 
declared open" a midst tl e c ers of Z^7'' ^ Exhib ^ wa 
3UJ of the building and repeated sa ft th ° USa " ds J- and 

I cannot, of course, attemnt am, H Artllle, T ln the Park. 

^^yoiwh^^^^^^ of. the multitudi- 
-i£n products, as the results of th remarkable ,n Bnt 'sh and For- 
ry-all contained ^^^^'^^^^coun^ 
or a simple catalogue. Duilding- -volumes are required 

, The <r*^ </' *// standing under e ither of *u j 
exhibition building itself and ookin^ down tl ^ ° f the Vast 

lost unequalled beauty T pfi / * the nave ' ls one of al- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 6 , 

• senses filled with admiration, I felt the full for™ n f »h. a 
ke hath her victories no less renowned ttn^wlfe 

:ild be more glorious, what scene more noble than tl ■', I 
seated of the peaceful rivalry of the natbnl ? What marks 
b* strongly the progress of the age, the comin<r of thJ? 
of universal brotherhood, in which the gen ,T s iiri°o Chr'isT 
y w.th all its humanizing and ennobling influence s is toiupe " 
e the barbarism of the past, and to banish forever those X, 
ch survive in the brutal contests of the present in w\Zl u> 
tes right, and virtue and patriotism are'crusled o ,e Earth 
fee power of tyrants, or the frenzy of fanaticism 
ny attempt at a description of the infinite varietv of articles on 
ibition as I have said, would be absurd and failto a tract af 
|.on at this remote period, but the following e.x act from a sec" 
letter written to our Virginia friend, in May, 86 2 w°lTnot be 
?ether without interest as it contains some information as to 
Particular department, that of Art, and the contrib mionslo it 
! fellow countryman then in London, and with whom we form 
pleasant acquaintance, and the story of whose life is one of 
r, perseverance and energy : e OI 

le fine art department of the International Exhibition of iSfi, 
f n,s for the first time in the history of the arts, a coTection of 
Bs of contemporary artists from every civilized nation An 
ktnmty is thus afforded the observant and reflective mind of 
paring the styles of the various schools, and lea u"toa ea 
nd instructive investigation of the causes which have prod^c 
ose peculiarities and excellencies by which thev arc^distm- 
,ed. The walls of this vast department are adorned by the 
s of men of the greatest genius, and afford space for he 
s of persons noted for some bold innovations upon the Un- 
acknowledged principles of art. g 
thout attempting to give any lengthened review of these va 
Reductions or the impressions by which they have nd vidu" 
ffected me, it may be at least useful to give you the" 
result upon my mind. They may be serviceable to the £" 
ause of the arts in our own States. The styles of "schools" 
nte as distinctly marked as the boundary lines which senate 
nmtry from another; for no observant eye can fa after a 
iys examination of these schools to recognize the d stmc 
fferences and to see fhat their characteristic qua ides are 
ects of that system of teaching which prevails in he a« 
tions of each country. Hence it is that' whilst S os hua 
■Ms was at the head of the English Academy, the young ar- 
hether pupils or not of that institution, followed his manner 
ceived instruction as coming from an oracle in art It Z 



6 4 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

thus that the great mass in every profession are certain to follow, 
many slavishly, the theories and practice of those who either from 
genius, from management or from Royal patronage have attained 
to distinction and high rewards. So that the characteristics of a 
schoolare changeful, and according to the accidents of the success 
of individuals. At one period the method of Sir Joshua influ- 
ences the great body of young aspirants, at another it is Sir Thom- 
as Lawrence who rules supreme. Then Wilkie leads the way for 
a host. Finally, the English school has changed entirely from the 
masculine, dashing and effective style of Reynolds, until it lias 
arrived at the effeminate, dry and ineffective manner of those who 
style themselves, however inappropriately, "Pre-Raphaelites." 

These facts are readily gleaned from the large number of pic- 
tures displayed in the English department of the Exhibition, which 
extends over a period of a hundred years, during which they were 
executed. The departments of the French and other foreign 
schools, as they contain only the work of living painters, give' a 
much more restricted scope for the study or elucidation of the 
principles which 1 have ventured to assert. In the French school 
we see no work which was inspired by the dry, academic and classic 
practice of David, Nicholas Poussin, or Le Brum— their works were 
those of academicians and founders of the earliest schools of 
France. I see now in their stead the influence of later masters 
such as Horace Vernet, De Laroche, Ary, Scheffer, the one differ- 
ing as much as possible from the other. 

The Belgian school being essentially French in character and 
derived from the teachings of Parisian masters, follows the same 
law and adds its testimony to the justness of my views. The Tus- 
can school presents in its leading work by Ussi, the Fruits of the 
Florentine Academy, under the late Presidency of Bezzuoli. Spain, 
Russia and other countries of Europe cannot be said to possess 
any school whatever, their leading artists having generally been 
students in Paris and their style and excellencies attributable en- 
tirely to its professors. 

The American department contains a few paintings, six only 
two by Cropsey and four by Kellogg, two portraits and two ideal 
pieces. The landscapes by Cropsey, one representing an Autumn 
on the Hudson, and the other a Cane brake in Louisiana, are two 
of the finest specimens of this kind of painting in the Exhibition 
The atmospheric tints peculiar to the American Autumn, and the 
rich foliage of the iorest and the brilliant sunset sky are admirably 
painted. J 

Kellogg's portraits are quiet and natural in color with serene 
and thoughtful expressions, the draperies well cast and carefully 
worked up, and the drawing admirably executed. The "Flower 



RAMBLING' REMINISCF.NSES. 65 

of the Seraglio" represents a Turkish girl seated at an open wind- 
ow, evidently contemplating with delight a flower which grows in 
a vase placed upon a table by the side of the Divan upon which 
she reposes. A glimpse of the neighboring buildings is seen 
through the latticework of the window. At first view of this picture 
I was struck with the power and brilliancy of the sunlight which 
pervaded it. This quality of light brought to my remembrance 
several paintings belonging to the French school which, over all 
others, is pre-eminent in this essential and rare beauty in painting. 

Passing this piece I next saw his "Bath Scene." This is a sub- 
ject calling for many of the higher qualities in an artist, a fore- 
shortened naked figure; one half in a powerful light and the 
other in reflected light, partially derived from it, the whole figure 
being surrounded by stuffs of the greatest variety of texture and 
rich and varied colors. This principal figure is a girl reclining 
after the pleasures of the Oriental bath, and apparently just drop- 
ping- into a gentle slumber amid the cushions which supported her. 

This principal figure and chief point of interest is quite upon 
one side of the picture, the attendant features being situated on 
the other side, a very difficult and rare system of composition. 
This important painting which strikes the spectator at once with 
pleasure, is one requiring daring and educated qualities in the ar- 
tist, both of which have been successfully illustrated in the piece 
which seems an emanation of the loving spirit which led the an- 
cient artists to immortal renown, breathing a devotion to the truth 
of the subject chosen, which works out the result from an innate 
perception of beauty and propriety, and creates of necessity a 
manner of execution peculiarly its own, untrammeled by the dicta 
of academies or by the tyranny which tradition so often exercises 
over the artist mind. The pleasure which the study of the works 
of an artist who combined so much of freshness of thought, vari- 
ety of style and beauty of execution was enough to make me de- 
sire to know something of the routine or system of education 
which had produced these happy results, and as Mr. Kellogg was 
an American, I soon found myself pursuing my investigations in 
his studio and amidst the evidences of his long and devoted labors. 
From my notes of conversation with him, the following brief ac- 
count is given of the method he has pursued, and by which he has 
reached his high position in the practice of art. The example of his 
career cannot but be serviceable to the youthful artist of our coun- 
try, who is striving amidst the darkness around him to fix on some 
system of study which will ultimately secure his success. 

Mr. Kellogg, while still a lad commenced the pursuit of art, and 
though unaided by either fortune, powerful friends, teachers or 
examples succeeded in earning a precarious livelihood in the 



(17) 



66 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

north western States which at that time, thirty years ago, lacked 
every means of instruction in the arts. The Cincinnati Gazette 
of January 9th, 1873, in an article referring to his early predilec- 
tion for the arts remarks "some fifteen years ago in an old and 
leaning frame building that stood, or rather pretended to stand on 
a somewhat noted part of Main street, and whose second story 
was reached by a rickety flight of steps on the outside, were types, 
cases, presses and all the etceteras of one of our old time printing 
offices. And in this ancient office, at one of the cases aforenamed, 
stood a bright eyed, fresh cheeked, mischief loving boy, some 
twelve or filteen years of age, who had "gone" (as the phrase was 
when youngsters here were too proud and independent to be "ap- 
prenticed" and mothers too weak to tolerate the idea of having 
their sons bound out) to learn the "art, trade or mystery" of a 
printer. With all his life and mischief he was yet a dreamy lad ; 
and notwithstanding that he was not lazy, but on the contrary clev- 
er and active, he yet made but slow progress between the Monday 
mornings and Saturday evenings, in the important work of setting 
type. This was a mystery that required a little investigation, and 
on such examination taking place, it was found that some accom- 
modating body had constructed a convenient drawer under his 
type case, which was capacious enough to hold an old violin, an 
eight keyed flute, two or three music books, divers pieces of cray- 
on and man}' sheets of drawing paper, many of which were cov- 
ered with grotesque groups of 'boss' and his 'jours,' and carica- 
tured likenesses of that considerate and good natured class of 
gentlemen loungers, who have from time immemorial been in the 
habit of passing their morning hours around the tables of Editors 
to assist in hunting out news. Withal the youth mentioned was 
good natured and genial, and so when remonstrated with frankly 
confessed that his love of music and the pencil was greater than 
his regard for type, and it was decided that he or his friends for 
him had mistaken his vocation." 

It was shortly after this period that urged by a love of painting 
and a noble ambition he left the West and worked his way to the 
Eastern States in search of examples and teachers. Here, how- 
ever, his necessities forced him to abide several years in the in- 
terior of the State of New Jersey, which was as destitute of the 
means of instruction which he sought as were the states of the far 
West. His success in painting portraits enabled him in a short 
time to reach the State Capital, where he made influential friends 
and obtained a commission from the Legislature to execute a large 
portrait of Washington for the assembly-rooms of the State 
House, which portrait gave such satisfaction that he was honored 
by the Legislature with a unanimous vote of thanks. Instead of 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 67 

resting a moment contented with the approval of his abilities, he 
used the means it furnished him to obtain the instruction he so 
much desired. He visited Washington City and there secured 
the favorable consideration of the Cabinet of President Van 
Buren, among whose leading members was Hon. Joel R. Poinsett, 
Secretary of War, a man of great learning and cultivated taste, 
who warmly interested himself in promoting the honorable views 
of the struggling artist. The result was that the President and 
Cabinet secured for him the friendly notice of the Professors in 
the Military Academy at West Point. Giving up the pursuit of 
painting for the present he proceeded to West Point, where 
through the gratuitous and able ^teachings of the Professors he 
was enabled in the course of a year to lay the foundation of a 
knowledge of perspective and other sciences connected with the 
art of design. With a mind trained to some system in the pur- 
suit of a most difficult art, he resumed the practice, Shortly after 
he went to Tennessee and painted the likeness of General Jack- 
son, ex- President of the United States, and the friendly interces- 
sion of the old hero resulted in obtaining for him several valuable 
commissions from the Government at Washington, by whom he 
was finally entrusted with despatches for the Minister at Naples. 

Here he found himself in the glorious land of art. but without 
means and only one important commission. He diligently pur- 
sued his studies for three years amidst difficulties and privations of 
the most discouraging character, and as his means would not en- 
able him to spend anything upon living masters, he determined to 
seek from the examples of ancient art around him, some knowl- 
edge of the principles by which they were produced. In the 
course of two years, he had by copying some of their best works 
and by a few original pictures acquired the means to study the 
human figure from living models and to obtain in the Hospitals of 
Florence a practical knowledge of the structure, osteological and 
anatomical, of the human form and also to sketch and take elab- 
orate notes of the famous paintings in oil and in fresco which have 
given renown to the most splendid palaces of that great seat of 
medieval art. He had sent original paintings to the Royal Acad- 
emy of Florence which received complimentary notices of the 
press and pointed out such admirable copies of Raphael's works as 
to have obtained commissions enough to allow him to venture to 
spend a season of study among the churches and other deposito- 
ries of art throughout Lombardy and Venice. Determined now 
to see something of the arts of other countries he made a visit to 
Egypt and labored with assiduity in studying and drawing from 
its mysterious and mighty ruins. He then continued his journey, 
sketch and note book always in hand, into the desert of Arabia 



68 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Petrae to the Convent of Mt Sinai where he spent some time in 
exploring this most interesting region of the ancient world. It is 
sufficient evidence of his thoughtful investigation and enthu- 
siastic character to peruse his journal of this journey — a por- 
tion relating to this region being of such interest to Biblical 
scholars as to find a place in Dr. Kitto's work on the Scripture 
lands. After crossing the Desert of Hebron, he made a complete 
tour of the Holy Land and returned to Italy, enriched by a large 
collection of sketches of oriental scenes and characters. The next 
year his love of art and adventure took him again to the East. 
He remained some time in Constantinople, where the American 
Minister extended to him the hospitalities of a home at the Lega- 
tion and the English Ambassador, Sir Statford Canning and his 
accomplished wife, Lady Canning, took a lively interest in his suc- 
cess. It was here that he formed the acquaintance of Mr. A. H. 
Layard, who afterwards disinterred Nineveh, with whom he made 
an extensive tour in Asia Minor, which laid the foundation of a 
mutual and lasting friendship. He now returned to the United 
States from which he had been absent seven years, where he re- 
mained four years prosecuting his profession, after which he spent 
three years more in Italy studying the old masters. He then re- 
moved to Paris determined to glean all that was possible from the 
theories and practices of the most excellent of all schools of mod- 
ern art. After a residence of four years he came to London where 
he has been established for the last five years. 

I have thus traced briefly the career of an artist who starting 
from a sphere where art was literally unknown, and without any 
means of obtaining either instruction or fame, has travelled exten- 
sively through remote countries, and is now settled with honor in 
the Metropolis of the modern world, with port-follios filled with 
subjects sufficient to keep his pencil profitably employed during 
the remainder of his life. 

Probably nothing could give stranger proof of Mr. Kellogg's 
accurate knowledge of the works of the old painters than the pos- 
session of so many of their best productions, for it is only by such 
knowledge that a man of his limited means is able to become their 
owner. His collection is of rare excellence, many of the pictures 
costing him a very small sum, having been found in the most un- 
likely places, and sometimes in a dingy or injured condition — for 
some, however, as they came from well known galleries by public 
sale, something approaching their real value had to be paid, A 
few which have excited the interest of the most enlightened artist 
and critics are of such great importance, that I may be excused for 
speaking at some length as to the manner by which Mr. Kellogg 
obtained them. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 69 

When his collection had, by slow degrees and in the course ot 
his travels in the different countries where they were found, in- 
creased to the number of more than one hundred examples of 
good masters, his atten tion was accidentally called in Paris to a 
small number of paintings, the property of a Swiss lady, who 
upon the death of her father had brought them from Switzerland 
to be disposed of for the benefit of his heirs. This was in the sum- 
mer of 1855. Owing to the war in the Crimea and to the distress 
in financial circles it was impossible to obtain for them the notice 
they deserved. Mr. Kellogg examined them, and was so convinc- 
ed of their value and so reliant on his own discernment, that al- 
though the price demanded for them was thousands of dollars be- 
yond his means, he borrowed the money by pledging as security 
the whole of his own collection, and that too, without knowing the 
opinion of any other person as to the authenticity of the pictures, 
and thus he became their purchaser. 

Among the pictures to obtain which Mr. Kellogg had thus ad- 
visedly risked the whole of his little fortune, were at least two 
which he believed to be of inestimable value. One was a "Hero- 
dias," by Leonardo de Vinci, and the other the "Belle Jardiniere" 
by Raphael. They had been so long hidden in the family of an 
humble connoisseur among the mountains of Switzerland as to 
have escaped the zealous researches of every biographer of those 
two most distinguished masters of the Italian school. 

He kept these pictures in Paris for four years, where they were 
freely open to the visits of all lovers of art ; the best artists and 
most impartial judges declaring them to be originals of the high- 
est value. 

The ' Bellejardiniere' had, however, a rival in a painting of the same 
subject in the Gallery of the Louvre; which though acknowledged 
to be an inferior work, and its originality openly contested by able 
connoisseurs, had in its favor the prestige of some centuries exist- 
ence in that great museum of art, and its authenticity asserted by 
the most indubitable documentary history. Notwithstanding these 
generally received opinion 4 --, he engaged earnestly upon the labor of 
examining every available record which concerned the history ol 
that work. After exhausting the field of research which Paris offered 
to his industry, he made a visit to the famous exhibition of art 
treasures then open at Manchester and to several collections in 
London, to acquaint himself with every work attributed to Raphael 
which could there be found. Returning to Paris he prepared to 
leave that city and establish himself in London, when Count de 
Morny visited his collection, and was so struck with the beauty 
of the Raphael as to express a wish to see it by the side ot the 
picture in the Louvre, and through his influence this was accom- 

(18) 



JO RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

plished, and he obtained at the same time the long desired privi- 
lege for Mr. Kellogg of making a satisfactory examination of the 
two paintings side by side. After this was done Mr. Kellogg re- 
moved to London. Here his fine collection soon attracted the at- 
tention of many noblemen and lovers of art. For three years he 
pursued the study of his subject and finally published a pam- 
phlet, giving the result of his "Researches into the history of a 
painting by Raphael of Urbino, entitled La Belle Jardiniere. (Pre- 
miere Idee du Peintre.)" * 

Of course these researches included the history of the Louvre 
painting and all its traditional claims to authenticity. In the mo£t 
laudable spirit of impartiality he abstained entirely from express- 
ing any opinion regarding its merits, leaving these and the record 
of historical facts which he gives to decide the question of the rel- 
ative value of the two paintings. 

Without going further into this interesting subject, I may briefly 
state that the result of the critical labors of Mr. Kellogg have been 
to prove conclusively that his painting possesses stronger historical 
claims to originality than that in the Louvre, and to surpass it in 
many of those qualities which distinguish Raphael from all other 
painters. 

Through losses and illness in his family, pecuniary embarrass- 
ment now pressed heavily upon him. Against those, however, 
he battled manfully, and the Civil War in America deprived him 
of every assistance from his countrymen. In this most gloomy 
condition of his affair he was induced to dispose of the picture he 
had so long cherished and which was so dear to his artistic spirit. 
Thus after seven years sojourn in the studio of the man who had 
the sagacity to appreciate its character and the courage to rescue 
it from oblivion, his judgment was at last triumphantly confirmed 
and his unswerving faith in its originality and patient labors to 
prove it to the world adequately rewarded. 

The conviction expressed in the preface to the "Researches" that 
enlightened and impartial criticism will ultimately secure for it an 
elevated position among the precious monuments of Italian Art, 
was not founded on erroneous conceptions of the character of the 
picture, for it has, after passing the ordeal of the severest critics in 
Europe, been recognized as an original and at length reached an 
elevated position among the precious monuments of art which 
composed the noble collection of Lord Ashburton. 

-Vide Art Catalogue published by the trustees of South Kensington Museum* 

*Lord Ashburton purchased the painting for two thousand guineas and left it 
as a special legacy in his last will to Lady Ashburton. Tt now adorns the walls 
of Bath House, Piccadilly. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 71 

1 have selected this interesting incident from among similar ones 
in the career of our artist to testify to the value of that course of 
study, which in the absence of Academic instruction, may some- 
times lead to distinction in the practice of art and to a sound judg- 
ment in the appreciation of her noblest works. 

Mr Kellogg's studio is filled with works painted by himself at 
various periods under the influence of the pictures of the old 
masters, which he was at the time studying. They illustrate by 
their different qualities and subjects, the comprehensive field which 
his mind has traversed in its search after knowledge. Refreshing 
himself at times from the fountain of nature, as the greatest and 
noblest of all teachers, he has secured himself from falling into 
that mannerism which is inseperable from the works of all the 
disciples of any one school. 

I do not mean to affirm that he has pursued the only right course 
of study, since he himself laments the loss of many precious years 
of his youth in battling for bread, and that too in a district desti- 
tute of every means of instruction in his profession. That he has 
attained his present high position is due entirely to his natural 
talents and to unremitting labor and observation, wherever his lot 
was cast, owing nothing to any advantages of study which his own 
country had afforded to him in the arduous struggles of his 
youth. 

From the foregoing reflections I have been led to conclude that 
if a country is ever to be honored by the presence and skill of 
native artists, it must afford its youth examples of the works of 
artists of every country who have attained to excellence, and 1 
cannot too highly applaud the course of the alumni of the Univer- 
sity of Virginia in founding an art gallery there. These are as 
necessary as is a library in the pursuit of literature. 

It isalso important that some system should be adopted whereby 
the general principles of art and the sciences, which are essential 
to its successful practice, can be taught in such a manner as to 
leave the student's mind free from prejudice in favor of any par- 
ticular master's style, whilst it gives him the power of expressing 
in the readiest way his conception of subjects which shall hence- 
forth occupy his pencil. 

I am inclined forcibly to the opinion that Academies of Art are 
generally conducted on principles subversive of originality in the 
minds of their pupils by encouraging the belief that reputation 
and rewards are more certainly within their reach, it they follow 
the methods which are practiced by successful academicians and 
that their errors may be avoided and every necessary instruction 
imparted by including departments or Schools of Art in all uni- 
versities similar to those of law or medicine. 



72 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



CHAPTER VII. 



LETTER TO THE "TIMES" REFERRED TO IN PREVIOUS 
CHAPTER — GLADSTONE, BRIGHT, ETC., ETC. 

Immediately upon reaching London, Mr. Yancey requested me 
to write for the papers, a letter correcting certain reports industri- 
ously circulated in England as to the state of public opinion in 
North Carolina. Concurring with him as to the propriety of this 
course, the following letter was written and published in the Lon- 
don Times, on the 24th of November, 1861: 

Sir: — "I have been greatly surprised to learn since my arrival 
in London that an effort has been made through publications in 
the English press, to create the impression that there is much dis- 
affection towards the Confederate Government in all the Southern 
States of America, but particularly among the people of North 
Carolina, and that the proceedings of what purports to be a meet- 
ing of influential and respectable citizens of the county of Hyde, 
in that State, have been published as authority for the numerous 
statements made upon the subject. 

I am directly from the city of Raleigh, North Carolina, having 
come on board the Confederate States war Steamer, Nashville, 
which left Charleston, South Carolina, on the 26th of October, and 
cast anchor off the Itchin, Southampton, on the 21st of this month, 
and have been since August, with the exception of brief visits to 
Virginia, constantly in the eastern portion of the State, where this 
disaffection is said to exist and the meeting to have taken place. 
I need not say, therefore, how much gratified I am that an oppor- 
tunity is afforded me of pronouncing the entire story utterly de- 
void of truth in every particular. No such disaffection exists in 
North Carolina and no such meeting has ever been held. The 
people of North Carolina are united and enthusiastic in the support 
of the Confederate Government, and are determined, under no 
circumstances, to ground their arms till the independence of the 
Confederacy is acknowledged by our enemy. Before the State 
seceded, there was in North Carolina, as in every Southern State, 
(as there will always be in every popular Government,) a divided 
popular sentiment as to the wisest policy to be pursued for a re- 
dress of grievances suffered at the hands of the Government of 
the United States, but the proclamation of Mr. Lincoln, in con- 
travention of all law and authority, calling for 75,000 men, osten- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 73 

sibly to 'hold, occupy, and possess' a few dilapidated sea side forts 
and an armory at Harper's Ferry, a force utterly disproportioned 
to the end announced, aroused the whole Southern people to a 
sense of their danger, and the Act of Secession was passed in 
North Carolina by a unanimous vote of the Legislature. Subse- 
quently it was ratified by a State Convention elected by a popular 
vote and representing the sovereignty of the people. This action 
occurred in the month of April last. Since that time I have not 
heard in my extensive intercourse with the people a single expres- 
sion of opinion in opposition, but, on the contrary, a universal sen- 
timent of concurrence in its justice, propriety and necessity. 

Before I left America the State had sent to the seat of war in 
Virginia, 33,000 volunteer troops fully armed and equipped (infant- 
ry and riflemen), and a regiment of cavalry, numbering 1094. 
There were 6,000 troops on the State coast, and camps of instruc- 
tion established at Raleigh, Ridgeway and Careysburg. War is 
always popular and the people were fired with enthusiasm, so much 
so that the number of volunteers still offering was so much larger 
than was needed, that General Martin, Commander-in-chief of the 
State forces, had, under orders of His Excellency, Gov. Clark, 
issued a proclamation informing the people that no further troops 
would be mustered into service. 

A simple statement of these facts is a sufficient refutation of the 
idea which Mr. President Lincoln so earnestly and persistently 
seeks to create abroad, that there is a Union party in the Confed- 
erate States. It may suit his purposes to create such an impres- 
sion, as a justification of his course in waging a wicked and atro- 
cious war upon a gallant and noble people, whom he is perfectly 
aware he can only wound — never conquer, but he will find few 
charitable enough to believe him actuated either by truth or honor. 

The further statements of the papers of the United States, which 
have been extensively reproduced in the British press, that large 
numbers — multitudes, indeed, of the people of North Carolina had, 
after the fall of Fort Hatteras, gone in and taken the oath of alle- 
giance to the Government of the United States, are likewise devoid 
or truth. On the isolated and barren strip of land where Fort 
Hatteras is situated, there are some wreckers, who support 
themselves principally by decoying vessels to their destruc- 
tion by displaying false lights, &c. Some of these desperadoes, 
who live without the sense of any duty they owe to God or man, 
and who do not wish to be disturbed by their new neighbors, may 
have gone in and taken the oath after the fort fell, but even this 
is doubtful. If the Yankees were dislodged to-morrow, they would 
take a second oath, with equal alacrity, to whoever might next 
occupy the waste. If any meeting favorable to Mr. Lincoln ever 



(19) 



74 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

took place in North Carolina, which I do not believe, it could only 
have have been composed of these wreckers, acting under the 
auspices of their new fledged friends, the Yankee invaders, and the 
salutary restraints imposed by martial law and the guns of Fort 
Hatteras. 

By giving this hurried note a place in your columns, where the 
statements it is intended to correct, have appeared, you will much 
oblige, Sir, your most obedient servant, 

J. L. Peyton. 

58 Jermyn Street, St. James. 
London, Nov. 23rd, 1861. 

P. S. — The statements in the alleged proceedings of the meeting 
in Hyde county, that the writ of habeas corpus, the freedom of 
speech and of the press, and the right of trial by jury, had all been 
suspended in North Carolina, are equally without foundation. 

J. L. P. 

This note had no sooner appeared in the Times,, than large num- 
bers of persons began to call, either to make more particular en- 
quiries as to the condition of affairs in America, to express sym- 
pathy for the Southern cause, or simply to pay their respects and 
invite us to dinner. From this time our circle of acquaintance 
rapidly extended, and we received much civility and kindness 
from persons in all ranks and classes, and these amenities contin- 
ued up to the period when we left on our return, years afterwards^ 
to the United States. 

Elected an honorary member of the Reform Club, we there met 
many of the celebrities of the day — statesmen, authors, lawyers., 
army and navy officers, etc. In the library of the Club much of our 
correspondence, for a time, was conducted and in the whist room 
we were initiated into the mysteries of short whist, which has 
superceded the game played in the days of Hoyle. 

The most agreeable impressions were produced by our new 
made friends, by the ease and elegance of manners generally of 
those in good society, and the entire absence of any pomposity or 
assumption of dignity. Foreigners entertain many erroneous 
opinions as to the English. So far from being a surly, ill-temper- 
ed, rude, vulgar and unfeeling people, they are the reverse, and 
should be valued, and are, by those who know them well, upon 
their high breeding and upon, as a people, being de bon coeur, 
which in its real meaning answers with much exactness to the 
English adjective good-natured. Mr. Gladstone usually sat in the 
Club, when his onerous duties admitted of his being there, talking 
to a listening audience who gathered round about his chair, in an 
earnest and perfectly natural common sense way as if he meant 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 75 

what he said, and said what he meant. This remarkable man 
wields a vast influence — manipulates those about him like a musi- 
cian the keys of his piano. However some of his followers may 
now and again oppose his measures, they do not long remain in 
in opposition — they are soon reclaimed by his eloquence. Few 
can resist the charm, the magnetism of his manners, the force of 
his logic, the persuasiveness of his discourse. He is never at a loss 
or unprepared, but ever ready. He knows what he is going to 
say and how to say it ; is full of arguments, images, tropes and 
figures, and blends them with his facts, with matchless skill. He 
is never cold, dull or monotonous, but always the enthusiast as 
talker, writer, orator and statesman, uniting the originality of the 
man of genius to the erudition of the scholar and the graceful 
manners of the gentleman and man of the world. He unites the 
sallies, the incidents, the surprises, the picturesque of language, 
with reflexion, sequence and thought, and draws his resources and 
his power alike from the premeditated and the unseen, from the 
vigorous precision of art and the simple graces of nature. We 
venerate the man ; his heart is warm, his hands are pure. 

John Bright walks about the rooms with his hands in his breeches 
pockets, chatting familiarly with his friends, and entirely free from 
any affectation, self-assertion or starch. These great men are civil, 
polite, attentive to stranger acquantainces, acting as if they felt an 
interest in them and their comfort — never on any occasion do they 
indulge in vulgar boorishness or neglect of others. Though a 
little reserved on first acquaintance, they soon establish relations 
of personal friendship with those to whom they are introduced and 
with whom they are thrown in the same social position, or who 
are of similar tastes and pursuits. They do not display what are 
called company manners, as do so many coarse and underbred 
people. The manners of high bred English people are always the 
same at home and in society. They never swagger, lounge, or 
carry into even the family circle the actions proper to the dressing 
room. 

Among our most intimate friends in this club, and our relations 
subsist to this day with many who survive, were, Dr. Charles 
Mackay, the popular poet and for many years the American cor- 
respondent of the Times, Mr. de la Prime, a nephew of the great 
Thackaray, Osmond de Beauvoir Priaulx, a distinguished author 
and graduate of Cambridge, Sir William Hutt. M. P., T. Colley 
Grattan, author of "Civilized America," A. J. Beresford Hope, M. 
P., and many others. 

We were also honored by an election as Fellow of the Royal 
Geographical Society, and spent many hours in their rooms, talk- 
ing to the accomplished secretary, Dr. Shaw, to Captain Bedford 



76 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Pirn, R. N., Dr. Rae, Sir Edward Belcher, R. N„ and other 
celebrities. Many evenings were passed this winter and afterwards 
in Burlington House, Piccadilly, listening to the interesting and in- 
structive lectures of travelled Fellows of the Royal Geographical, 
such as Sir Rutherford Alcock, who gave his impressions of Ja- 
pan; Dr. Rae, who told us of out of the way places in Canada, 
and C. R. Markham, who gave an account of his travels in Peru. 

In connection with the Society there is a social club called the 
Cosmos, where we partook of many fine dinners. The English 
love good eating and are a little too fond of talking about it. At 
the Cosmos we were much interested in the conversation of such 
famous guests or members — we do not know which they were — 
as Girard, the French lion hunter, and Paul du Chaillu, the African 
explorer and the first person to introduce Europeans and Ameri- 
cans to a knowledge of the gorilla.* With the editors of nearly 
all the daily papers, Messrs. Delane, Mowbray Morris, and Samp- 
son, of the Times, Thornton Hunt, of the Telegraph, Mr. 
Johnson, of the Standard, etc., we were on familiar terms of inter- 
course. We understood the power of the press and sought its 
aid on our behalf — that irresistible power which is more mighty 
than armies, religions, legislatures or kings ; more rapid than the 
winds, more boundless than space, as intelligent as thought. 

While our time was much engrossed with affairs of serious im- 
port we did not altogether neglect society. On the contrary, we 
entered into its blandishments with keen zest* Who does not feel 
the need of society? Man is a social creature, and though some 
have divested themselves of social affection to a great extent, or 
confined it to very narrow limits, the social principle can never be 
eradicated. What man could be content with all the wealth and 
power the world affords, if no one could taste of his happiness but 
himself? What pleasure could wealth bestow, unless it was im- 
parted and mutually enjoyed ? What is desirable in power, but the 
exercise of it in good deeds ? Who is savage enough to choose a 
solitary felicity ? 

*In October, 1855, du Chaillu sailed from New York for Africa, intending to 
explore the then unknown region lying 2° on each side of the equator. He 
spent nearly four years in this region, penetrating to about longitude 15 east. 
During this time he shot and stuffed 2,000 birds, of which 60 species were pre- 
viously unknown to naturalists and killed fully 1,000 animals, including many 
gorillas and 20 other species of animals previously unclassified. He published 
in London, in 1861, the history of this expedition, under the title of "Explora- 
tions and Adventures in Equatorial Africa." He sailed from England in 1863 
and reached the mouth of the Ogobai river, Africa, in October. On his return 
to Europe he published an account of his experiences under the title : "A jour- 
ney to Ashargo Land." 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 77 



CHAPTER VIII. 



THE SHAW FARM OF PRINCE ALBERT — ENGLISH AGRICULTURE- 
STOCK BREEDING, ETC. — POLITICAL INFLUENCE OF 
THE LANDLORDS — DUKE OF SOMERSET. 



The sudden death of Prince Albert, shortly after our arrival in 
England, investing everything with which he was particularly 
connected with more than ordinary interest, we availed ourselves 
of being at Windsor, to visit the Royal farms — more particularly 
the Shaw farm, of which the Prince was tenant from 1840 until his 
death in 1861. 

This farm consists of 800 acres, and is cultivated extensively for 
the supply of the castle. Since 1849, it has been conducted under 
minute instructions from Prince Albert, who sought to make it a 
model farm, and who here made many scientific experiments. It 
was here that he undertook and carried through successfully his 
plan for perfecting, by judicious crosses, the short-horn breed of 
of cattle. The Prince, in this line, was a worthy disciple of the 
celebrated Jones Webb, who acquired world wide fame for his im- 
provement of stock at his estate of Babraham. 

Of the Shaw farm only one hundred and twenty acres is arable 
land, the rest lying out in grass for permanent pasture or being 
woodland. Thirty laborers and six pair of horses are ordinarily 
employed, but during hay making and harvest an additional force 
is engaged. The great particularity with which the land is culti- 
vated and every farming operation conducted may be inferred 
from the employment of this large force. And they were con- 
stantly at labor. The Prince, an energetic working man himself, 
allowed no idlers on the estate. 

The farm horse in use is of the Clydesdale breed, a cross of the 
thorough-bred with the Flanders mare. The ordinary size of this 
animal is 165 hands high, with a weight, when in good condition, 
of two thousand pounds. They have clean, straight limbs, a light 
step and powerful muscular development, are hardy, good tem- 
pered, intelligent, and, notwithstanding their size, quick and ac- 
tive. Many of Prince Albert's have taken prizes at the agricul- 
tural fairs, and in passing through the stables, we observed that 
the premium cards were attached to the stalls of the successful 
horses. They were pointed out with much pride by our guide, 
Mr. Tate, the overseer of the farm. 



(20) 



78 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



i" The Prince was likewise successful in raising coach horses, 
type of which is produced by crossing the Cleveland bay mare 
with the thoroughbred horse. The points of the coach horse are 
a deep and well proportioned body, short and clean bone under 
the knee, open feet, sound and tough. He possesses a fine knee 
action, lifts his feet high, which gives elegance to his paces and 
action. He carries his head well and has a fine elevated crest. 
The breeding and rearing of horses are carried on professionally 
in England, chiefly in Yorkshire, but many private gentlemen and 
farmers address themselves to it as a means of pecuniary profit, 
and the improvement of their stock. None have been more suc- 
cessful than Prince Albert. 

While traversing the farm-yard, we were attracted by some 
good specimens of the white Windsor pig, a type of the swine 
family obtained by the Prince after a series of judicious crosses, 
and which is supposed to combine more good points than any 
other. We saw them in immediate contrast with a number of 
those celebrated black Berkshire pigs bred on the farm with a 
view to ascertaining, by actual experiment, which was the more 
valuable. Without entering into an examination of the question, 
or the points determined by the Prince's experiments, we gave an 
instant preference to the compactly built black Berkshire pig, with 
his short snout, thick jowls and erect ears. 

Prince Albert paid particular attention to the breeding of every 
kind of live stock, made many experiments and demonstrated by 
his success in this, as in every other department of agriculture, the 
value of science to the farmer. He made it a point before com- 
mencing operations to analyze the soil he purposed cultivating, 
and with a knowledge of its composition, qualities and deficien- 
cies, what crops it best suited and how its absent properties could 
be most economically supplied, he went to work with a reasonable 
assurance of success. 

The Shaw farm is cultivated on what is called the four course 
or five field system, and two grain crops are taken in succession. 
The use of these terms indicate to what an exact and rigid science 
agriculture is reduced in England. The system or course of cul- 
tivation is designated in the lease and no covenants are more 
strictly enforced. The well to do man may find no peculiar diffi- 
culty in executing them, for he has plenty of cheap labor and all the 
requisite implements and machinery. But the number of these is 
small if the accounts, had in 1879, from England are reliable — ac- 
counts which represent the tenant farmers as throwing up their 
leases by the score in order to emigrate to America. The four 
course system means simply that the whole arable extent of the 
estate, whatever this may be, is equally divided between four 



.. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



79 



great crops : thus, say the estate consists of 2,oco arable acres, 
then it would be most probably laid down thus ; in wheat 500 
acres, barley and oats 500 acres, seed and palse 500, and roots 500. 

The landlord insists upon a rotation of crops and the import- 
ance of such system cannot be overestimated. It is well known 
that certain mineral salts or salifiable bases are essential to the con- 
stitution of vegetables. Indeed, it is asserted by chemists that no 
seed exists that is without a phosphate ; and it is well known that 
the alkaline salts powerfully promote vegetation. Such is their 
ascertained influence, that tobacco, barley and buckwheat sown in 
soils absolutely without organic matter, but containing saline sub- 
stances and only moistened with distilled water, are known to have 
produced perfect plants, which flowered and fruited, and yielded 
ripe seeds. Whence it follows, that the presence of saline matter 
favors remarkably the assimilation of the azote of the atmosphere 
during the act of vegetation. 

The importance of considering rotations in connection with the 
inorganic substances that are assimilated by plants, was perfectly 
well known to Sir Humphrey Davy. "The exportation of grain 
from a country which receives nothing in exchange that can be 
turned into manure, must exhaust the soil in the long run," says 
the illustrious chemist, who ascribed to this cause the present ster- 
ility of various parts of Northern Africa and of Asia Minor, as 
well as of Sicily, which, for a long succession of years was the 
granary of Italy. Rome, unquestionably contains in its catacombs 
quantities of phosphorus from all the countries of the earth. Such 
startling facts teach us that the extraordinary production of the 
cereals which is now going on in America is not an unmixed bless- 
ing. The spirit of luxury and extravagance which is growing in 
our country and which causes our farmers to over cultivate is im- 
poverishing our soil ; and unless counterbalanced by an improving 
system of agriculture, the importation of manures and a judicious 
rotation of crops will leave us in the course of time in the same 
condition as the people of Northern Africa — the possessors of a 
kind of desert which was once a garden. Recent intelligence of a 
grain blockade at Chicago, Illinois, tells the story of our excessive 
production. 

"A grain blockade of prodigious proportions, is the feature of the 
grain trade in this market" says the despatch. "The elevators of 
the city, which contain an aggregate of sixteen millions of bushels, 
are very nearly filled to their utmost capacity, and several roads 
are refusing to receive grain for this market, because, when it ar- 
rives there are no accommodations for it. In this condition of af- 
fairs the Directors of the Board of Trade are considering the pro- 
priety of accepting as regular the receipts in the elevators and 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



storehouses along the line of the various railroads It is also in 

torf a 7d to IO bu[l d PrOVid , e temP ° rary St ° ra ^ ° Utside ^ ^ de°va 
tors,, and to build new elevators in various quarters of the citv 

loald with^if T ^ &** ^n g ?he track in the afy 
loaded with grain and are unable to deposit it Tiiere are in 

oK^o 000 ^ 5 ^' 50 ' , WhCat ' 4 ' 000 ' 000 of " corn and enough 
0^,0 atlhl t i,^' if thetota ' I 4,25c,coo bushels, against io,ooS,- 

Xat in the harbor " yean ^ ^ <*"> aboUt a ™ llio " bushels 

astoeHn'ifrt n' nishe i lar ^ quantities of fern, which are used 

dis r"b.iterf * < ^ S a " u C ° W yards ' and with the ha y a » d sfaw 

o tt«e On ,h e ^V h V tTCk ' P ^ UCeS a " abundant su PP>y 
01 manure. On the Shaw farm, as generally, in England no rule 

farm s r haI, S hi ed U - P ° n '>" that aU the ^^w^produced upon the 

condi ion W r SUm ' T" 't Theland is thus ke Pt >« high 
condition We were giad to observe that the wasteful practice of 
applying fermenting and half rotted mature to theoround as a too 

EnXiwh i fhr;r eXtenS, '!f ly , praCticed in eve°y county iS 
England, which we have visited, does not exist on the'Shaw farm 

inila P °ds' o S ° f F l anCe and S«t«riand, the practice of top di4 s-' 
mg lands sown with winter grain, is extensively practice I ThV 
manure is applied when the blade is already above hgound Id 
the passage o, horses and wagons over the fields does" not mate 
ratty injure the crop. Yet farmers generally avail themselve" of a 
time when the ground is frozen to perform the process Tip 
good effects of top dressing with unrolled" straw litter &c hlvl 
been too frequently witnessed to make us doubt its value to the 
growing crop, but we are decidedly of opinion hat a weil ro f ,H 

out straw, woody stems, leaves and weeds— what is called the litter 

fertilizing properties of the manure, acted on chemicallv bv ,t 
01 the soil itself, and the beneficial effects be felt for years. A top 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. Si 

dressing: of leaves or unrotted straw protecting or shading the 
surface, and causing decomposition, is no doubt of considerable 
value to impoverished soil and grass land, and is probpbly the 
best mode of applying unrotted straw, but how different is this 
from exposing to the action of the sun and air a mass charged with 
highly volatile gases? On a large majority of the English farms, 
during this and a previous visit to the country, we have seen the 
manure, instead of being collected in pits or vats, with the liquid' 
refuse, scattered over the barn yards and perpetually exposed to 
the action of the sun and air. The advantage of such pits are 
acknowledged, but the tenants are unwilling to incur the expense 
of having them prepared. They are generally tenants for a single 
year and hold their property under rigid covenants. This system 
of letting from year to year has been adopted as a means, so we 
have been informed, of making the tenants subservient in political 
matters to their landlords. It is perfectly understood they retain 
their premises upon the condition that they vote as their landlord 
may dictate, thus surrendering up their elective franchises and be- 
coming the pliant instruments of his will. This is what . is called 
the conservative influence of the landed gentry. We have just 
laid down a copy of the "Morning Herald," of 1870, containing 
the following paragraph, which bears the conclusive evidence of 
the wrong and injustice practiced under this system : 

"The Duke of Somerset and his Tenants. — The following 
letter has been addressed to the editor of the "Western Morning 
News." The indignation of the inhabitants of Totness has been 
aroused by the serving of notices to quit on most of the tenants 
of the Duke of Somerset, who voted against his Grace's nominee, 
or abstained from voting at the recent election. This dirty work 
was commenced soon after the last election. The victims then were 
Mr. E. R. Turpin and Mr. Blackler, They have this quarter left 
Bridgetown and come into the land of Freedom — viz, this side of 
the river Dart. The victims this quarter include the occupiers of 
both houses and lands, and some of them have been tenants the 
last twenty years and were among the number who acceded to the 
compact entered into some years since for one conservative and 
one liberal member. The following have had notice to quit : Mr. 
John Penwill, Mr. W. Ellis, Mr. J. Willis, Mr. W. Byne. Mr. Robt. 
Lake, Mr. j. Mitchell. Mr. W. K. Hanniford. Mr.Wm, Harris, Mr. 
James Briggs and Mr. T. Tucker. Mr. Robert Earle has given 
notice and so has Mr. Lake. The movement goes far to fully con- 
firm the belief that the Duke is determined to make every one of 
his tenants vote as he bids." 

Many similar paragraphs might be quoted from the papers, and 
many which show that the spirit of Radical reform and change is 

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82 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

fostered among the people by such ill-advised conduct. It be- 
hooves the landlords if they wish to retain their influence and power, 
and that they must so wish none can doubt, to do justice to their 
tenants and yield something of their ancient rights and privileges 
to the masses, whose growing intelligence renders them fit and 
safe depositories of much more political power than they now enjoy. 
The real statesmen of England should see, while it is yet time, 
that it is only by liberal concessions they can satisfy the just de- 
mands of the people and silence clamor. 

By acts of tyranny and oppression the rulers of the old world 
have almost precipitated revolution over half of Europe within the 
last twenty years. And unless wiser councils prevail, the period 
is not distant when we shall see the champions of the divine ri^ht 
of Kings meeting foemen worthy of their steel in the champions 
of freedom. Recent attempts have been made upon the lives of 
the Kings of Italy and Spain and upon that of the Emperor of 
Germany. The Emperor of Russia lives in a chronic state of alarm 
which has been recentlv amusingly illustrated by the following 
supposed. diary of his Imperial Majesty. 

The Czar's Diary.— [From the "Court Journal.] "Got up at 
7 a. m. and ordered my bath. Found four gallons of vitriol in it and 
did not take it. Went to breakfast. The Nihilist had placed two 
torpedoes on the stairs, but I did not step on them. The coffee 
smelt so strong of prussic acid that I was afraid to drink it. Found 
a scorpion in my left slipper, but luckily shook it out before put- 
ting it on. Just before stepping into my carriage to go for my 
morning drive it was blown into the air, killing the coachman and 
the horses instantly. I did not drive. Took a light lunch of her- 
metically sealed American canned goods. They can't fool me 
there. Found a poisoned dagger in my favorite chair, with the 
point sticking out. Did not sit down on it. Had dinner at 6 p. 
m., and made Baron Laischounowonski taste every dish. He died 
before the soup was cleared away. Consumed some Baltimore 
oysters and some London stout that I have had Rocked up for five 
years. Went to the theatre and was shot at three times in the first 
act. Had the entire audience hanged. Went home to bed and 
slept all night on the roof of the palace." 

The visitor to the rural districts cannot fail to be struck with the 
insufficient and insignificant character of the farm buildings gener- 
ally and the condition of dilapidation in which many of them are 
permitted to remain. This is one of the evil consequences of the 
present system of renting from year to year, and can only be ob- 
viated by long leases, which involve an abandonment of the land- 
lords right to control the political course of his tenant ; and a tvvo 
or three year's notice to quit with compensation for permanent 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 83 

improvements. Unless some such policy as this is adopted, rent 
troubles will become as serious in England as they now are in Ire- 
land ; and no earthly power can avert a revolution which will rock 
the British Empire from centre to circumference. 

A striking contrast to the general state of affairs is presented by 
the Shaw farm, which is admirably and completely equipped, with 
buildings, consisting of a farm house occupied by the overseer, 
with all the necessary appurtenances ; foremen's and laborers' 
houses, barns, granaries, stables &c, the whole arranged with 
much skill. The buildings are supplied with corn crushers, straw 
and turnip cutters and other machinery worked by steam power. 
The granaries are in the third story of one of the buildings above 
the threshing floor, and as the wheat is threshed and cleaned, it is 
delivered by travelling cups to the granary bins, whence it is sack- 
ed and delivered into carts outside by an overhanging crane and 
pulleys from the end of the apartment. The same steam power is 
used to grind food for the cattle, and the steam boiler is utilized in 
the preparation of every substance used as food by the stock. The 
cut hay or straw is mixed with turnips, mangle wurtzel, &c, which 
have been crushed by the proper machinery. This mixture is 
passed into a large steaming chest and being there subjected to 
the action of hot air, becomes more palatable and soluble, and 
readily gives up all its nutritive properties. 

The Prince's plan for fattening sheep deserves to be mentioned. 
It is a shed with a sparred floor. Here they are tied up by the 
neck and fed from troughs, upon mixed diet, having salt and 
water at pleasure. At the end of every fortnight they are 
weighed to ascertain what progress ( they are making, and the 
house and pen carefully washed with chloride of lime. Under 
this system as may be imagined, they fatten rapidly. 

The yield per acre of wheat on the Shaw farm is from thirty- 
five to forty bushels, and from forty to sixty tons of mangle 
wurtzel, and of grass at the first cutting 35 tons, at the second 28, 
at the third 21 and at the fourth 8, or a total of 92 tons per acre. 
And yet not an acre of the Shaw farm was originally superior, if 
indeed equal to the poorer lands in the Valley of Virginia. It 
has been made thus productive by intelligent cultivation, by 
labor, and by the steady application of manures. 

The laborers work during the summer ten hours a day, from six 
to eleven, -then eating, and again returning to work from one till 
five o'clock. The horses receive two bushels of grain and one of 
beans each per week, with hay ad libitum. 

Liberal wages are paid the laborers. In this county the ordi- 
nary wages are from ten to eleven shillings per week. Out of 
this the laborer usually pays one shilling rent a week for his 



84 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

cottage to which a small garden is in most instances attached. 

The Royal Dairy for supplying the Castle with milk, cream, 
butter and cheese is situated on this farm. The interior bears an 
inscription mentioning the date of its erection, &c. It presents a 
handsome appearance, the floor being covered with fine Minton 
tiles, of a rich and recherche pattern, and the walls adorned with 
the same kind of tiles in various hues. The ground color of the 
ceiling is green, upon which are many elaborate decorations in 
various tints. The windows are of stained glass of the richest 
description. In niches around the wall are statues of the Queen, 
Prince Albert and the royal children. We could not help think- 
ing they ought to have been occupied by statues of the best cows. 
An ingenious contrivance called the "ventilator," keeps the butter 
and milk cool in hot weather. It bears on either side the mono- 
gram of the Queen and Prince Albert, and is said to be one of 
the Prince's inventions. The interior is adorned with marble 
tables, upon which stand the pans containing the milk. Under 
these tables a constant supply of water is kept, which may be 
drained off at leisure by means of plugs. Three fountains con- 
stantly play, the most beautiful being one representing Gibson's 
"Tinted Venus." Among the articles kept in the dairy are some 
rare old china, presented to the Queen by members of the Co- 
burg family. The patent churn produces in a half hour thirty 
pounds of butter. Clinedinst's water churn would do it in less 
time. The neatness, order and industry of the dairyman and his 
wife are perceptible in all departments of this establishment. By 
one of the regulations, the resident farm laborers are allowed a 
daily supply of milk according to the size of their families. Much 
taste and judgment are displayed in the model dairy, which is but 
another monument to the practical good sense of Prince Albert. 

Among the peculiar institutions of the Shaw farm is a school 
and reading room established by the Prince for the use of the 
farm laborers. A register of those who attended the evening- 
classes and their progress in studies was regularly inspected by 
him, and he never failed to reward the constant attendant and 
successful student. In connection with the school, he provided a 
small, well selected library for the use of all employed on the es- 
tate. 

He always insisted that a mechanic or laborer might prosecute 
bodily and mental work at the same time, and by doing so, he 
secured to himself a constant source of delightful companionship. 
By reason of his books and the information he acquired from 
them, he provided himself with cheerful fellowship at all times. 
Without relaxing his labors, he might, said the Prince, by and 
through his books, be in all times and at all places. How differ- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 85 

ent.it is with his fellow workman who has no such resource — who 
has no such companionship within himself! If his mind is not an 
utter blank, it is filled with a world of trifling and debasing 
thoughts. A man, however, accustomed to think, to read, and to 
hold intercourse with a pure and lofty morality, has tastes above 
those of his illiterate companion, and might hold in whatever 
sphere of life a higher social position. In addition to the library 
which he provided, he encouraged and aided the workmen to 
purchase a few books for themselves, thinking that a well selected 
collection of these in a house was a pledge of domestic comfort, of 
happy fireside influences, and the best security for their continu- 
ance. These good books the Prince regarded as household deities, 
shedding light and intelligence, begetting feelings of friendly in- 
terest within each, to man, and every living thing, elevating his 
ideas of the works of God, expanding his views of this and the 
world to come, staying the downward tendencies of their natures, 
purifying, ennobling and enlarging their affections, and thus be- 
coming the shields of the household virtues. These, he said, were 
the real, true household deities, and not the false gods set up by 
the Romans in their ignorance and superstition. In a word, good 
books were, in his opinion, the best protection of every social 
virtue, and the best security to domestic comfort and peace. Few 
people there are who will not subscribe to the justness of his views 
on this subject. 

A monthly report of the operations of the farm was made to 
Prince Albert, who inspected them closely and issued instructions 
accordingly. This excellent man ever sought, in his farming op- 
erations, as in all the duties of life, to discover what was true and 
to practice that which is good. 

During the period of our visit to Berkshire, the farmers were 
engaged in plowing their land for the spring crop, and the process, 
though nciv to us, was decidedly antiquated. They had five to 
six horses harnessed, one behind another, to the plows, and while 
one man held the handles, another managed the team. From this 
almost obsolete method of turning the sod is doubtless derived 
the old distich: 

"He that by the plough would thrive, 
Himself must either hold or drive." 

The reason for using so many horses and not putting them 
abreast, was the stiffness of the soil and consequent heavy draught; 
that by employing more horses than is necessary they stand the 
work better and longer than when too hard pressed ; that part of 
the team consists of young horses, which are thus exercised and 

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86 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

assist in the labor, without injury to themselves, and harnessed in 
a line ahead of each other, they do not injure the soft surface soil 
on the land side. 

These are very plausible reasons for the plan, but we are dis- 
posed to believe nevertheless that it is better economy to employ 
only the horses required for the work, than supernumeraries to 
prevent possible injury to them; that before putting a young horse 
to the severe work of the plow, he ought to be well broken, so 
that he may perform his work steadily and thoroughly, making a 
full one in the team, and that five or six heavy horses, marching 
one after another, at the bottom of a furrow will do more injury to 
the land than if harnessed abreast. Accepting, however, without 
argument, the explanation of the British farmer, the question is 
submitted to our practical agriculturists, who will, if they have not 
long since done so, soon solve the problem. 



CHAPTER IX. 



HAMPTON COURT — MONS. ASSOLANT — CARDINAL WOLSLEY. 



Milton has observed that he who neglects to visit the country 
in the spring, and rejects the pleasures that are then in their first 
bloom and fragrance, is guilty of "sullenness against nature." If 
we allow different duties to different seasons, he may be charged 
with equal disobedience to the voice of nature, who looks on the 
bleak hills and leafless woods without seriousness and awe. Spring 
is the season of gaiety, and winter of terror ; in spring the heart 
of tranquility dances to the melody of the groves, and the eye of 
benevolence sparkles at the sight of happiness and plenty ; not so 
in winter, then compassion melts at the universal calamity, the tear 
starts at the wailing of hunger and the cries of creation in distress. 
But a truce to reflections on the changes of the seasons. Concur- 
ring in the great poet's views — never going to the country without 
rinding something to revive our curiosity and engage our attention 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 87 

— we accepted an invitation to visit Hampton Court, in June, 1862, 
with a party consisting ot many agreeable persons, among them 
Dr. A. T. Bledsoe, Mr. and Mrs. F. T. Tremlett, Sir Henry de 
Hoghton, Lady Eardley, and three French gentlemen, one of 
them being M. Assolant, the vivacious correspondent of the Cou- 
rier du Dimaiichr, whose letters from England during the Exhi- 
bition of 1862 created so much amusement in Paris and so much 
irritation in London. 

M. Assolant is a good specimen of a Frenchman, gay, witty, 
frivolous, sarcastic, sardonic. His pictures of the English, like 
all drawn by his countrymen, are exaggerated until they become 
ludicrous, and while no one could read them without a laugh, it 
appeared simply ridiculous that John Bull should take them so 
much to heart as he appeared to do. Not only the Times, but all 
the other daily papers, belabored him soundly for his sketches. 
M. Assolant is a fine flaneur, or '^'snapper up of unconsidered tri- 
fles," full 'of anecdote — one of those travelling companions who 
shorten the' longest journey. He kept us in a continual laugh and 
emerged from the train at Hampton Court covered with dust and 
applause. This clever man was born in Aubusson Creuse, in 1827; 
he finished his collegiate career about the year 1850. He was 
now, such was his scholarship, appointed to a professorship in the 
University of France, where he was successfully engaged for some 
years. A fondness for adventure led him to abandon his trust and 
travel in Central America and the United States. On his return 
to France he contributed to the "Revue des Deux Motides," an 
article upon the adventurer, "Walker and the Americans," and 
two rather successful novels. It was thought that while in Central 
America, he took part with the filibusters. In 1858 he pub- 
lished what was called 'une fantasie Americaine," under the title 
of "Scenes de la vie des Etats Unis," and since many other books, 
biographical, historical and fictitious. His most recent work, pub- 
lished about this period, was entitled "Historie d'un Etudiant. " 
For some unexplained reason Mons. Assolant could not get on 
comfortably with the English, but found himself entirely at home, 
like most Frenchmen, with Americans. His whimsical ridicule of 
John Bull was exceedingly droll and amusing. He would stop at 
times and express in a comical way his respect for America and 
the Americans, an admiration and respect which he declared was 
based on the great qualities of both country and people. When 
told that the Americans were English, only born in another hemi- 
sphere, he dissented and declared that though made up of all peo- 
ples, the Americans were more Celtic than Tectonic, and that 
Brother Jonathan, with all his eccentricities and grotesqueness, 
was decidedly ahead of John Bull. John Bull, he said, even be- 



88 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



•icts 

To 



fore the conquest, was made up of Britons, Romans, Saxons, Picts 
and Danes, and had no right to call himself an Anglo-Saxon. In 
fact, said Assolant, there is no such race as Anglo-Saxons and 
never was. He remarked that when it was customary to denounce 
King William as a foreigner, Defoe wrote "The true born Eng- 
lishman," in which he instructs his countrymen as to the mongrel 
races which had conspired to form that "vain, ill-natured thing, an 
Englishman," and showed 

A true-born Englishman's a contradiction — • 

In speech an irony, in fact a fiction ; 

A metaphor invented to express 

A man akin to all the universe. 

In a serio-comic vein he ran over a list of the boasted privileges 
of the English, and said they were all legacies left them by French- 
men. It was to the Norman Kings that England owed trial by 
jury, the amelioration of the condition of the vassals by laws cur- 
tailing the powers of the old barons, the equalization of taxes by 
which lords and commons paid alike ; the summoning of the first 
House of Commons that forced King John to sign Magna Charta. 
Here was the commencement of English nationality, said he, for 
before this period, English history was a mere history of elements, 
of their collisions and of the processes of their fusion. 

At this point a young man, of the cockney type, not, however, 
of our party, who had listened to the discussion in uneasy silence, 
began to show signs of fight, and it required all of Mr. Tremlett's 
clerical authority, and the aplomb of Sir Henry de Hoghton to 
keep the peace. At the next station we were glad to see this lard 
complexioned youth, with fierce grey eyes, piano key teeth, elon- 
gated legs and gooseberry mustache, leave the carriage. 

The French are, as all the world knows, the most racy and de- 
lightful of conversationalists, and M. Assolant shines among his 
own people, in the famed salons of Paris. Yet even he is not 
likely to rival, in this direction, his illustrious countrywoman, 
Madame cle Stael, who is represented as having been so fascinat- 
ing that those who listened to her were not aware, on one occasion 
of a thunderstorm. 

To the politeness, the manners and the accomplishments of the 
fashionable world, M. Assolant adds a thorough knowledge of 
men ; is indeed a man of the world, if not the spoiled child, whose 
caprices have always been laws, and who must, when a child, have 
broken the playthings he was refused. It is possible, therefore, 
that he was "buttering" us at the expense of John Bull, or he may 
have been amusing himself with both at one and the same time. 
Sir Henry de Hoghton was too much occupied with a flirtation 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 89 

with Lady Eardley to pay attention to the Frenchman, who cer- 
tainly diverted the rest of the party no little. Dr. Bledsoe, who 
gave the witty Gaul small credit for sincerity in his pronounced 
American prejudices, directed many heavy shot at him. which 
struck with telling- effect. M. Assolant is a man of middle height, 
handsome features, dark complexion, calm black eyes, thick, wiry 
mustaches, hanging like those of a Tartar. His voice is sweet and 
musical and when he smiles his face assumes an air of benevo- 
lence. 

The train, which had been gliding on with jerks of white vapor, 
now stopped with bragging puffs of smoke, and the porters throw- 
ing open the carriage doors cried out : "Hampton Court !" 

Hampton Court is known the world over as one of the most in- 
teresting spots in England, whether considerered with reference 
to the historical associations with which it is rife, its extensive pic- 
ture galleries, or the beauty of its gardens and parks, both of which 
have been elaborately and elegantly improved. 

Therefore of Hampton Court we shall give a brief account : 
Entering its gates it is impossible not to pass in review at once the 
singular history and deplorable fate of the wonderful man by whom 
it was reared, and who here lived in an ostentatious style of more 
than regal state. Without indulging in the extravagances of the 
stock tourist, who might here detain the reader several hours with 
his "contemplations" in the style of Volney's, "here once stood a 
populous city, the seat of a powerful empire," we shall content 
ourselves with a rapid resume of the principal events in the life of 
Cardinal Wolsey, who built the palace when at the height of his 
power, and with the deliberate purpose of making it surpass in 
size and magnificence any Royal residence in Europe. 

Thomas Wolsey was born in Ipswich, Suffolk, in 147 1, and 
was the son of a butcher. Though not wealthy, his father's means, 
were sufficient to enable him to bestow upon his son a liberal edu- 
cation, which he completed at Magdalen college, Oxford. During 
his university career he exhibited extraordinary talents and in- 
dustry'. 

The multitude of the offices and dignities, civil and ecclesiastical, 
which he afterwards filled is so curious, that at the risk of being 
tedious, we shall run hurriedly over the list. In 1504 he was 
chaplain to Henry VII. with dispensation to hold three living ■ 
stations he acquired through the influence of Sir John Naphai 
Governor of Calais. Young Wolsey had gone to France shortly 
after leaving Oxford and took service under the Governor, and 
showed such remarkable diligence and discretion that he was 
recommended by Sir John to his sovereign. His next appoint- 
ment was royal almoner, and in 150S, Dean of Lincoln. In 15 



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90 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 






he received a grant of the parsonage of St. Bride, and in the same 
year was appointed Canon of Windsor, and was a member of the 
King's privy council. He afterwards succeeded to the Bishoprics 
of Tourney, Lincoln and York, and Primate of England. He 
eclipsed the Archbishop of Canterbury and every churchman 
about him, and became Cardinal and Legate, receiving his Cardi- 
nal's hat from Leo X, and this year (15 14) he was advanced to the 
office of Lord High Chancellor of England. The emoluments of 
these offices were enormous, but did not satisfy the Cardinal, who 
is known to have received gifts and pensions from the King of 
Spain, the Duke of Milan and other foreign potentates. He greatly 
applauded Leo X when he burnt Luther's books declaring him a 
heretic, and next received from his Holiness a bill granting him 
authority to visit the monasteries, and conferring on him the tenth 
of all the revenues of the English clergy. Henry VIII also em- 
powered him, in the year 15 18, to confer letters patent of denizen 
under the great seal ; and then to make out conges d 1 elire (the 
writ to choose a bishop), royal assents, and restitutions of tempor- 
alities of ecclesiastical dignities, as well as to take the homages and 
fealty of all persons, which might be due to the crown for such 
temporalities — sources of the most extraordinary influence and 
emolument. He now became Bishop of Bath and Wells, and of 
the rich abbey of St. Albans ; then the administrator of the sees 
of Worcester and Hereford. In the same year he received the 
grant of the office of Bailiff of the Lordship of Chestnut in Hert- 
fordshire and park keepers of Bantingsly. He sympathized strong- 
ly with the Pope when Luther burnt the Pope's canon law and 
styled Leo a persecutor, a tyrant and the very antichrist. Leo X 
granted him authority, in 152 1, to make 50 knights, 50 courts 
palatine, 40 apostolic notaries, whose privileges were equal to 
.those made by the Pope himself, namely, to legitimize bastards, 
and confer degrees in arts, in law, medicine and divinity, and also 
to grant all sorts of dispensations. Another bull empowered him 
to check and put down the new Protestant heresies. The Cardi- 
nal this year sent an ambassador to the King of France and the 
Emperor Charles V, and he received a grant of 9,000 crowns from 
the Emperor besides 2,500 in lieu of a former grant. 

During the year 1522 he held the see of Durham,. and in 1524 
received a new bull from the Pope confirming his power to visit 
and suppress disorderly monasteries, and in 1529 became Bishop 
of Winchester. In a word, he had bestowed upon him an amount 
of honor, preferment, and emolument for 25 years the like of which 
the world had never seen and will never probably see again. His 
revenues exceeded those of the King himself or of any Sovereign 
in Europe. His state, too, was in keeping with it. At mass he 



RAMBLING REMINISCENXES. 9 1 

was served by Dukes and Earls, who took the assay of his wine 
on their knees, and held him his basin at the lavatory. 

He was the steady friend of learning- and of learned men — inti- 
mate with Erasmus and induced the Kings to invite both Titian and 
Raphael to England — he established seven lectures at Oxford, a 
college at Ipswich, and founded Christ Church, Oxford, in which 
the royal princes and the sons of the nobility to this day continue 
to receive their educations. He had a passion for building, and 
was always thus engaged, and his structures were remarkable for 
their superiority to those of the age. 

When in the zenith of his prosperity he built Hampton Court 
1516-1526. He was the actual ruler of England, both in Church 
and State by the favor of the King and the courtesy of the Pope. 
Flattered and sought by power and beauty at home, and by the 
crowned heads of all Europe, he was hated, yet feared by court- 
iers ; haughty, arbitrary and vindictive ; possessed of revenues to 
which the incomes of the greatest nobles were poor, he lived in a 
splendor and state such as became only a reigning Prince, and ex- 
pressed his swelling vanity in the well known words, "Ego et rex 
meus" — I and my king. 

His palace, composed of five courts and two hundred and eighty 
chambers for the use of guests, and rooms for eight hundred ser- 
vants, was the only place where he could entertain the crowds that 
flocked by every road to pay him court. Such was the magnifi- 
cence of the establishment that Grotius, the great jurist, who was 
envoy to England, in 1615, says of it: "If any Briton is ignorant 
of what is wealth, let him repair to Hampton Court, and thereaf- 
ter having viewed all the Palaces of the Earth he will say, 'these 
are the palaces of Kings, but this of the Gods.' " His household 
consisted of fifteen knights, forty squires and eight hundred ser- 
vants, many of whom were the seedy and beggard descendentsof 
the proud old barons. His steward was a Dean, his treasurer a 
Knight, his Comptroller an Esquire — he disdained to have an or- 
dinary person filling an office near his person. His head cook 
daily wore damask, satin or velvet, with a heavy gold chain about 
his neck. He held a levee every morning at which he appeared 
habited in red velvet, after which he went abroad in State. Af- 
fecting humility, he sometimes went abroad as a priest, mounted 
upon a mule, but the animal was always concealed under a moun- 
tain of trappings. His own attire was princely, and his retinue 
on these, as on all other occasions, numerous and brilliant. The 
saddle and saddle cloth were of costly crimson dye, fringed with 
gold. The costliest sables covered his shoulders, gloves of red 
silk his hands, and his shoes were inlaid with diamonds and pearls. 
Betore him marched two priests carrying silver crosses, before them 



92 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

two gentlemen bearing silver staffs, before these went a nobleman 
of high order, bearing his cardinal's hat, and foremost of all rode 
a pursuivant-at-arms with a massive mace of silver. The train 
was made up of other officers and attendants. Such were the 
splendid gildings with which he covered his pretended humility. 

The cardinal lived many years in this kind of splendor, long 
enough to learn that it was all vanity. He served a fickle and ca^ 
pricious master. A turning point came in his fortunes and he 
sank more rapidly than he had risen. The crisis in his fortunes 
was his remonstrance against the King's marriage with Anne 
Bolyne. The favor of the King was withdrawn, and a plot de- 
vised for his destruction. Arrested upon a charge of high trea- 
son, his parks and palaces, his treasures and revenues, all the 
sources of his princely income, were forfeited. Crushed and bro- 
ken in spirit, he became a prey to melancholly and disease and 
soon descended into the grave. His head was thus saved from 
the block. 

His fortunes and his fall are thus finely described by Dr. John- 
son in his "Vanity of Human Wishes :" 

In full blown dignity see Wolsey stand, 

Law in his voice and fortune in his hand, 

To him the church, the realm, their powers consign: 

Through him the rays of royal bounty shine ; 

Turn'd by his nod the stream of honor flows : 

His smile alone security bestows : 

Still to new heights his restless wishes tow'r, 

Claim leads to claim and power advances pow'r : 

Till conquest unresisted, ceased to please, 

And rights submitted left him none to seize. 

At length his sovereign frowns, the train of state 

Mark the keen glance, and watch the sign of hate- 

Where'er he turns, he meets a stranger's eye. 

His suppliants scorn him, and his followers fly ! 

Now drops at once the pride of awful state, 

The golden canopy, the glittering plate, 

The regal palace, the luxurious board, 

The liveried army of the menial Lord. 

With age, with cares, with maladies opprest, 

He seeks the refuge of monastic rest : 

Grief adds disease, remember'd folly stings, 

And his last sighs reproach the faith of Kings. 

The palace has been occupied since the days of Henry VIII by 
by many remarkable persons. His son, Edward VI, was born at 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. no 

Hampton, where a few days afterwards his mother, Jane Seymour 
died. Here Henry VIII married Catharine Parr. Here Bloody 
Mary and her husband, Philip of Spain, passed their honeymoon 
Here the Princess Elizabeth was entertained, and afterwards where 
the potent queen sometimes assembled her Court. Here lames 
I of Scotland summoned his famous conference of bishops and 
Puritan leaders to confer on the settlement of religion Here in 
1605, was entertained Francis, Prince of Vandemois, son of the 
Duke of Lorraine, and a large company, the feastings and festiv- 
ities lasting a fortnight, and here died in 1618, Anne of Denmark 
Charles I was imprisoned here and made his celebrated attempt to 
escape from it November nth, 1647. During the plague in Lon- 
don, Charles I and Katharine of Braganza fled to Hampton and 
remained there until it was over, 68,000 persons having perished 
Here they were when the great fire occurred, which' destroyed 
eighty nine churches, including St. Paul's, and 13.200 houses and 
covered 436 acres of ground with ruins. 

Thinking persons were all disposed to acknowledge the hand of 
God m thesejudgments, on account of the sins of both Kino- and 
people But in the midst of justice it was tempered by mercy and 
that which at the time was a dire calamity, has since proved a 'last- 
ing blessing ; the ravages of the plague were stayed by the fire 
which completely purified the atmosphere, and the old city with 
its narrow streets being destroyed, way was made for the erection 
of one more commensurate with the requirements of modern 
times ; and the mighty city which excites the astonishment of for- 
eigners, which is now the emporium of the commerce of all na- 
tions, and which is justly styled the metropolis of the world arose 
from the great fire of 1666. 

Here Oliver Cromwell, the destroyer of the monarchy and the 
founder of the short-lived Republic, held his court, as well as at 
Windsor and Whitehall. There his daughter Elizabeth married 
Lord Palconburg and another daughter Lord Rich, heir of the 
Earl of Warwick. Like many modern Republicans, Cromwell 
courted rather than disdained a connection with the nobility. Here 
he devised his foreign policy which was so eminently successful 
resulting m the defeat of the Dutch and the capture of Jamaica 
from the Spaniards, events which forced Mazarin to acknowledge 
him, and the Venetians and Swiss to seek his friendship. When 
wearied and worn with the strife of parties at Whitehall, disap- 
pointed in his hopes at home, and his life made wretched 'by the 
constant dread of assassination, here he retired for rest, and to con- 
template the more agreeable prospect of his power abroad, where 
he was both feared and respected. And here no doubt he saw 
signs of popular weariness with the Protectorate, and may have 

(24) 



94 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



feared, without disburdening his soul, the ruin of his Common- 
wealth based upon the bible, and the restoration of the son of 
England's murdered -King. It was here that he lost his favorite 
daughter, Mrs. Clay pole, who exhorted him on her deathbed to re- 
trace his steps and seek forgiveness from God. Mrs. C. evidently 
believed in the divine right of kings, and feared that her father in 
seeking to give the English people a Republican government was 
engaged in the devil's work. It was while he was at Hampton that 
the founder of the Society of Friends, the celebrated George Fox, 
visited Cromwell to beg that he would put a stop to religious per- 
secutions. His visits were much enjoyed by Cromwell, who is 
reported to have said to him on one occasion before parting, 
"Come again, George, come often, I feel that if thou ^ and I were 
oftener together, we should be nearer to each other." 

The year 1660 saw the end of the Republic and the restoration 
of Royalty in the person of the murdered King's son. It was one 
of the greatest misfortunes possible to the English people that 
Charles 11 ascended the throne without any restrictions to the 
Royal power, and without any security for the rights of the people. 
The merrie monarch immediately began his revels at Hampton 
Court where he assembled such profligate friends as his brother 
James, Buckingham, Jermyn, Grimmont, Rochester— his own 
and their favorites or shameless mistresses. Such diversions, such 
libertinism, such scoffing at religion, such abandonment of decency 
and such rampant licentiousness was never before seen a1 the En- 
glish Court. Shortly after the rye-house plot, Charles left Hamp- 
ton Court and boldly walked about the west end of London. His 
brother James meeting him one day in Hyde Park, expressed his 
surprise at his venturing abroad in such perilous times. "James," 
replied the King, "take you care of yourself; I am safe. No 
man in England will kill me, to make you king." 

Charles II fell a victim to his excesses, dying in 1685, and was 
succeeded by his uncle, James II. whose arbitrary measures and 
open coalitions with the Roman Catholics, and his sensual life 
caused him to be driven out of the Kingdom. The English throne 
was now offered to William and Mary, who accepted it, and the 
glorious and last revolution in England, that of 1688, occurred. 
It gave the people freedom in the midst of servitude, order in the 
midst of anarchy. Representative Government as it now exists in 
England dates from this epoch— the people owe to it, under Prov- 
idence, whatever of law, security of property, peace and happiness 
they enjoy. William and Mary made Hampton Court their prin- 
cipal, as it was their favorite abode. Subsequent monarchs, down 
to ^George I, have occasionally resided at Hampton Court, but 
nothing occurred of such a character as to be worthy of mention. 






RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 95 

And in 1838 the Palace and grounds were thrown open to the 
public, after the custom of the French and other Continental na- 
tions, and the people are permitted to visit the galleries, gardens 
and parks on so many days each week. 

The picture galleries contain more than two thousand paintings, 
the most celebrated of which are the Cartoons of Raphael, which 
were painted during the last years of the great master's life and 
have been called the "glory of England and the envy of Europe." 

Raphael's peculiar genius is displayed in those great works in 
various respects. Pi is power of invention appears in the most 
advantageous light and nowhere do we so correctly feel how deep- 
ly Raphael had penetrated into the pure spirit of the Bible as in 
these designs. 

The first cartoon is the death of Ananias, which is distinguished 
by all the qualities which constitute and mark the genius of paint- 
ing. 

The second is Elymas, the sorcerer, struck blind by St. Paul, 
Then follows the lame man, restored by St. Peter and St. John, 
the miraculous draught of fishes — St. Paul and St. Barnabus at 
Lystra — St. Paul preaching at Athens and the Last Charge of 
Peter. These seven cartoons are all that remain of a number 
sent to Arras that tapestries might be worked from them. When 
they reached there, the weavers commenced their work of de- 
struction, by cutting each of them perpendicularly into slips in 
order to work conveniently after them. In some unaccountable 
way, after the tapestries were taken to Rome, the paintings were 
neglected and remained buried in oblivion till Rubens, who 
knowing their value, urged King Charles I to rescue them. In- 
vestigations led to their discovery in a cellar at Arras. All but 
these seven were destroyed. The pieces of these were collected 
and reunited. 

Some of the pictures in these galleries are chef d' ouvres, but 
many possess no merit. The frescoes are by Verrio, with whose 
peculiar style the reader is already acquainted. Wolsey Hall is 
hung with ancient tapestry, deliniating the history of Abraham. 
The first of them represents the appearance of God to Abraham, 
and the Patriarch's benediction, declaring that through him all 
the nations of the earth should be blessed— a fact strangely for- 
gotten by those who at present cast such obloquy on the unbe- 
lieving Jew. The second represents the Nativity of Isaac, and 
the peculiar ceremony, still characteristic of the Jews, attendant 
on his birth. The third exhibits Abraham sending out a servant 
to seek a wife for Isaac, his son. The fourth sets forth the return 
of Abraham and Sarah from Egypt, laden with the gifts of the 
Egyptians. In the fifth is delineated the reception of the three 



96 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

angels by Abraham. The sixth shows Abraham as purchasing 
the cave of Macpelah as place of sepulchre for Sarah, his wife. 
The seventh represents the separation of Abraham and Lot, when 
they had resolved on following different courses. The eighth 
and last exhibits the Patriarch as about to offer up his son as a 
sacrifice. The tapestries look as old, if not as familiar, as the his- 
tory they hand down. 

The pleasure grounds, containing about fifty acres, are hand- 
somely laid out and improved and ornamented with jets d'eau. 
Three large paths diverge from the principal entrance, which are 
lined with trees and fringed with flowers. The garden for fruits 
and vegetables contains twelve acres, in which there is a grape 
vine planted from a slip in 1769, festooned, under a glass house 
built for its protection, which bears annually from two to three 
thousand bunches of grapes. The gardner is allowed to charge 
a small fee for showing it to visitors, which yields him a handsome 
annual revenue. From the private grounds a gateway leads into 
Bushy Park, which contains about eleven hundred acres and is 
five miles in circumference, Here there is a stately avenue of 
chestnuts in which there is a circular piece of water ornamented 
by a statue of the goddess Diana. Space does not admit of any 
description of this or the other parks, gardens and pleasure 
grounds, which form so charming a feature in English scenery. 

These grounds and park, which we have said are opened to 
the public, attract, owing to their proximity to the densely popu- 
lated suburbs of London, large crowds, who avail themselves ot 
the privilege to spend a day wandering beneath the leafy bowers 
and by the sparkling waters Upon holidays it is thronged by 
tens of thousands. On Sunday the working classes flock hither 
for rest and relaxation, the picture galleries being opened after 
ten o'clock for their especial benefit. The good use to which it 
is now turned, cannot fail to exert a happy influence upon the 
minds, manners and tastes of the people. Though there are 
many good paintings in the galleries and seme master pieces, it 
would be difficult to find anywhere a larger collection of pictorial 
trash. They have not been executed by royal academicians, 
some of whom enjoy world wide fame, but who are sneered at on 
the continent as England's best — Europe's worst painters; on the 
contrary, these are generally the productions of Court favorites, 
who knew much better how to "crook the pregnant hinges of the 
knee," than to use their pencils. 

Separating at Hampton from the party, to keep an appointment 
in another quarter, we hurried to Leather head, one of the prettiest 
villages in Surry, thence to Dorking, the loveliest country town 
in England. We had accepted an invitation to visit the Bouchiers, 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 97 

whose ancestors had lived in Virginia previous to the Revolution. 
Rev. Jonathan Boucher, or Bouchier, as the name is now spelt, was 
Rector of Hanover, then of St. Mary, Virginia, and subsequently 
Rector of St. Anne, Annapolis, previous to 1776. On the adop- 
tion of the Declaration of Independence, Mr. Bouchier, who was 
a Royalist in his political sentiments, returned to England. Some 
years subsequent to this period he published in London a work on 
the causes and consequences of the American Revolution. He 
always retained a friendly feeling for our country and people — 
more particularly the people of Virginia and Maryland — and trans- 
mitted it to his family and immediate connections. 

With these hospitable friends we remained some days, during 
which time we made many excursions in the country — one of them 
to Deepdene, the princely estate of the Hope family, where Dis- 
raeli wrote Coningsby. While in this lovely rural district, mixing 
with the country people, we heard much of the territorial aristoc- 
racy and the evils attending the present land laws. The views we 
then heard have a present interest in view of the agitation in both 
England and Ireland for a change n these laws, rent tenures, &c. 

The landless people complained that they were entirely ignored 
by the proprietors, who rebuked all who dared, in any way, di- 
rectly or indirectly, to express an opinion about the lands which 
did not beiong to them and in which, therefore, they have no con- 
cern. The champions of the people asserted that the land was 
originally the property of all, but by confiscations and other legal- 
ized forms of robbery, at various periods in English history, it had 
lound its way into the hands of first one and then another Royal 
favorite. In process of time it has fallen into possession of a few 
privileged families ; the number of landlords being only about 30,- 
000 in a population of nearly 20,000,000. They further allegvxl 
that it is kept in their possession by the law of primogeniture, by 
entails and by the difficulties thrown in the way of its acquisition 
and the enormous expense attending its conveyance. At present 
the sale and transfer of the soil is fenced round with difficulties and 
expenses, rendering them nearly prohibitory to all except persons 
of great wealth. One gentleman said he had rented a house at 
^45 a year and had paid legal expenses connected with the lease, 
of ^15. It was the general opinion that the laws which were passed 
in iormer times by the aristocratic few, in order to secure their ill- 
acquired estates, were now producing the most disastrous results. 
The discovery of steam had opened a way for supplying England 
with the wheat, meat, cheese, &c. of America, Russia and other 
large grain and beef producing countries and this had entirely 
changed the position of the tenant and all those who derived their 
living from the soil. Yet landlords wished to keep up the prices 



^5) 



98 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

of their land to the point they had reached when there was no 
such competition and the tenant was protected by corn laws. 

This state of affairs has led to a surrender of many leases and 
there are no applicants for the farms An English friend in De- 
cember last, (1879) in a letter to the writer, stated that the Earl of 
Abergavenny had seventeen farms thrown upon his hands in the 
county of Kent, and the Duke of Marlborough 4,000 acres in Ox- 
fordshire. This same Duke, John W. Churchhill, is now Lord- 
Lieutenant of Ireland, and is charged by Mr. Parnell with the 
partizan distribution of the funds raised by voluntary contributions 
in America and elsewhere for the relief of the starving Irish. — 
Many of those tenant farmers who have the capital are leaving, or 
preparing to leave England to become citizens of the United States. 
Heaven be praised, there is plenty of land here, room for all. 

We have recently seen a statement of one of the great landed 
proprietors of the reasons which prevent his pursuing a more lib- 
eral course towards his tenantry. It is in substance, that his rents 
could not be reduced, because in addition to his own family, many 
others derived an income from his landed property. Tenants nat- 
urally enough reply that they do not care to cultivate land at a 
loss to themselves, merely for the purpose of supplying old dowa- 
gers and younger sens with the means of living in idleness and 
luxury. 

At a meeting of his tenantry which recently took place, the 
Marquis of Ailsbury told a piteous tale of how he was encumbered 
with a whole park of poor relations. He said : 

" Protection had been talked of as a remedy for the present dis- 
tress, but he urged them not to expect it. Protection was alto- 
gether out of the question. No Ministry would dare to attempt 
it, for it could not be introduced without causing a revolution in 
the country. A tax on the food of the people was an impossibility. 
He had come into an estate which was most heavily mortgaged, 
and, in addition to a large family, he had three dowagers to pro- 
vide for, who, it should be remembered, would not take twenty per 
cent, off their allowances because times were bad, and he had re- 
duced rents that extent. As a consequence he, of course, had 
very little to live upon." 

Consequently the heavily burdened Marquis, with his three 
country seats of Tottenham Park, in Wilts, Jerveux Abbey, in 
Yorkshire, and East Sheen, in Surry, and his London Mansion, 
could not do what he would have wished to do, namely, abate 
something considerable from the rents of his tenantry. 

Unfortunate nobleman ! His estates encumbered by the neces- 
sity of keeping up four establishments, that he may be said to 
''live pretty , much like a gentleman," with the further payment of 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 99 

thousands to three dowagers, and these old ladies determined on 
maintaining their style and state, on keeping their coaches, butlers, 
footmen, horses and dogs, no matter how hard the times, how de- 
pressed the agricultural interest, how impoverished the tenants, 
how niggardly the wages of farm laborers. But the noble Marquis" 
troubles did not end here. He is still further weighted by a num- 
ber of younger sons who must have their allowances that they too 
may be considered gentlemen. Our readers may wish to know 
what a gentleman is in this tight little Island. This is the picture 
of an English gentleman drawn by one of the greatest of English- 
men : 

"Perhaps you think I should not class myself among gentlemen, 
and yet I have as good a right to the name as most of the set. I 
belong to no trade ; I follow no calling; I rove where I list, and I 
rest where I please. In short, I have no occupation but my indo- 
lence, and no law but my will. Now, sir, may I not call myself a 
gentleman ?" 

Ask one of the dowagers to reduce their establishment by a 
couple of flunkeys and a carriage or so, in consideration of the im- 
poverished state of those who furnish them the means of maintain- 
ing it, and you'll get an angry negative. Ask one of these younger 
sons to live upon a less income and he will tell you the idea is pre- 
posterous. "Demme, you insult me. How can I gamble for large 
sums on a diminished income?" Let farmers, laborers and all 
connected with the land go to grief, come to the poor house, be 
driven from the country, dowagers and younger sons and others, 
hangers on planted upon the land,will have their uttermost farthing. 

Neither the Marquis of Ailsbury, with three dowagers on his 
back, and with tithe collectors, tax gatherers and younger sons at 
his heels, and overweighted tenants worrying his lands, nor those 
under him can compete with the United States in grain growing 
and cattle breeding, and therefore the end is close at hand. 

Nothing but a thorough repeal of the land laws will render the 
soil as productive and remunerative as it might be. Some means 
should be adopted for preventing thousands and tens of thousands 
of idle and useless persons being quartered upon its product. A 
man should be enabled to buy an acre of land as easily and readily 
as he can a leg of mutton. That mischievous law of primogeniture 
which places immense estates in the hands of one person, who 
must either provide for a number of others out of its revenues, or 
by quartering them indirectly on the public, should be abolished. 

In Alfred A. Walton's history of the landed tenures of Great 
Britain and Ireland he remarks on this subject : 

"There can be no doubt that a considerable portion of our op- 
erative classes and manufacturing population, as well as a portion 



IOO RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

of the manufacturers themselves, would have been employed in 
agricultural pursuits, had the land not been to a great extent lock- 
ed up against their enterprise and industry. And this must con- 
tinue so long- as the usurpation of the soil by the few to the exclu- 
sion of the many continues and the agricultural population kept 
stationary or non-increasing, which is the social effect of our pres- 
ent territorial arrangements, while the 'surplus population,' as it 
is termed, is compelled to take refuge in our large towns and cen- 
tres of industry. It will therefore be seen that the freedom of the 
soil is of the highest importance to the whole community ; both 
to the operatives, the mechanics and artizans of our large towns as 
well as the trading community, and likewise to the farmers and. 
laborers in the rural districts." 

Every man, therefore, be he landless or landlord, is more or less 
interested in the laws affecting 1 the ownership, the transfer and 
cultivation of the soil. In the present condition of affairs, En- 
glish tenants cannot compete with foreign farmers; the system 
tends to pauperise the landlords as well as those dependent upon 
them. It encourages the breeding of a race of high class paupers 
that are too lazy to work themselves, but not too proud to live 
upon the labor of others. They are a curse to the country. In a 
word, however prized by the privileged few, the land laws must 
be repealed. Such are the views of the mass of the British peo- 
ple, whether English, Scotch or Irish. 

But all the evils of the system in England are intensified in 
Ireland. In that unhappy country there are 20,ooo,oco acres of 
land, and 6 v ooo,ooo of acres are owned by 292 persons, and 744 
persons own 9,612,000, or nearly one-half of Ireland is owned by- 
less than 800 perscns. And there are twelve men who own 1,310,- 
000 acres or about 108,000 acres each. And the three or four 
millions of people who are the tenants of the great landlords and 
tenants at will, having no lease, and liable to have their rents raised, 
or to be turned out at short notice. Worse still, these great land- 
lords do not live in Ireland, but receive and spend the rents they 
extract from their tenantry in other countries. And the absentees 
acquired their property by the confiscation of about 3,000,000 of 
acres in the reign of James I, of seven or eight million during the 
protectorate of Cromwell, and of 1,000,000 under William III. 
In other words, nearly all the land of the tenantry has been taken 
away from the legal owners and given to strangers. Since that 
period the penal laws of England have inflicted indescribable in- 
justice and wrong on the Catholic population in Ireland — so much 
so that not more than one-tenth of the land, in recent times, has 
been in the hands of Catholic proprietors — the bulk of the Irish 
population. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. IOI 

With such a terrible history of wrong, cruelty and oppression, 
who is to blame in the present day, for Irish disloyalty and Irish 
famine. Who does not see that the time for a change in the land 
laws has come- 



CHAPTER X. 



HARROW-ON-THE-HILL — BYRON S EARLY DAYS — HAMPSTEAD 

HEATH — RURAL SPORTS — KISSING IN THE RING, ETC. 

— HIGH GATE, ETC. 



We had often taken counsel with the more intimate of our new 
made English friends, as to an excursion on foot to that metro- 
politan locality, Harrow on the-hill. Indeed it had been agreed 
that we should "do" the place on the first fine day. This was not 
long in coming. The ioth of May invited us forth. Our party 
consisted of some famous walkers, among them R. B. Barnwell, of 
Charleston, S. C, Haviland Burke, since M. P., for one of the 
South-western shires, the heir and representative of the great 
statesman and orator, Edmund Burke, and Dr. Granville, ("Old 
Granny," as he was familiarly styled) of the British Museum. 

Our route lay through Westbourne Grove and Kensall Green. 
The days of May are ever fair in Old England, yet fairest and. 
best of May days seemed this particular one. Pure, cairn and 
sunny, we cannot describe how much we enjoyed the sweet, ex- 
hilirating atmosphere, the rustle of leaves, and the ripple of sound 
that gladdened the morning. The hedges were decked with a 
profusion of primroses, butter-cups, daisies, cowslips and other 
wild flowers unknown in America, except in conservatories. 
Across the highway the shadow of many an old oak was cast. 
Every where there was a divine fullness; a mysterious sense of 
expansion suggested the unseen effort of the sap in motion. 
Glittering things glittered more than ever ; loving natures became 

(26) 



io2 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

more tender. There was a hymn in the flowers, and a radiance 
in the sounds of the air. The widely diffused harmony of nature 
burst forth on every side. All things which felt the dawn of life 
invited others to put forth shoots. A movement coming from be- 
low, and also from above, stirred vaguely all hearts susceptible to 
the scattered and subterranean influence of germination. The 
flowers shadowed forth the fruit as young maidens dream 
of love. It was nature's universal bridal. It was fine, 
bright and warm. Through the hedges in the meadows 
chifdren were seen laughing and playing at their games. The 
fruit trees filled the orchards with their heaps of white and pink 
blossoms. In the fields were primroses, daftodils, hyacinths, 
cowslips, daisies, violets, milfoil, speedwell. Flowering vines cov- 
ered the thatched roofs with colored patches. Women were 
plaiting hives in the open air ; the bees were abroad, mingling 
their hummings with the music of the air. . 

On one side of the road there was a firm, smooth raised side- 
walk, about ten feet wide, which made the walking perfectly com- 
fortable—as much so as on the pavements of a city. This atten- 
tion to the wants of foot passengers is general throughout Eng- 
land. This makes it plain that the laws, even in aristocratic Al- 
bion, are not enacted entirely in the interests of those who ride in 
chaises. This particularity as to the comfort of walkers arises, in 
part, from the high value which is set by the English upon human 
life ;' which causes them to sacrifice to its preservation many con- 
siderations of interest and convenience. The high speed, too, with 
which they drive in the country, never stopping to avoid pedes- 
trians, make these side-walks a kind of necessity. 
' While resting at an inn on the roadside, regaling ourselves with 
a glass of ale, each of us having ordered, "a pint of the bitter in 
the pewter" — one of those roadside inns, which we never see 
without associating them with the old coach and four, and the 
'ostler in fustian shorts and yellow leggins, standing with a water- 
ing pail at the 'osse's 'ead's, a drove of sheep passed on to Smith- 
field market. The shepherd, who seemed hot and thirsty, stop- 
ped to have his 'arf and 'arf, and being a talking man, informed 
us, while emptying his mug, that his sheep would fetch £2.12 
each from the butchers. "Ees, Ees they'll fetch that or the 
butchers be a precious lot o'ard screws. Pen't that lots o' 
money ?" and without waiting for a reply he walked off praising 
his sheep, which had been well kept together by one of those In- 
telligent creatures, the shepherd's dog. 

On leaving the inn, we continued our way by a gradually as- 
cending and winding road until we reached the summit of Har- 
row hill. The panoramic view which meets the eye of the spec- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. IO; 



tator from this eminence is beautiful indeed— London to the east 
reposes like a huge monster under its clouds of smoke ; to the 
south are the famous Surrey hills or Epsom downs, to the north, 
the village of Stanmore and the baronial seat of the Marquis of 
Abercorn, and to the west the distant turrets of Windsor Castle 
stand out in gloomy grandeur against the sky. 

Harrow, which was formerly a market town and place of some 
consequence, has dwindled into comparative unimportance. It is 
a unique and antique town, marked by the quaint and picturesque 
architecture of the Elizabethan regime. Formerly the residence 
of the Arch bishops of Canterbury, it is now only known and dis- 
tinguished as the seat of one of England's four great schools. 
This school counts among its former pupils some of the most dis- 
tinguished names in British history, such as Sheridan, Byron, 
Theodore Hook, the wit and novelist, Earl Dalhousie, governor 
general of India, Earl Hardwick, Earl Westmoreland, Sir Henry 
Lytton Bulwer, the Earl of Aberdeen and Lord Palmerston. 

It was here that Byron was placed at an early period and where 
he was associated with Sir Robert Peel, Lords Clare, Powerscourt 
and De la Warr, the Duke of Dorset and other eminent men with 
whom he formed passionate friendships or .contracted life long 
enmities. He made, as everybody knows, but little progress in 
his studies, but gave such evidences of talent that the Head 
Master, speaking of him about this time, said that he had talents 
which would add lustre to his rank. 

The school was founded by John Lyon in the 16th century, and 
contains on an average 800 scholars varying in age from twelve to 
twenty. As we proceeded through the town from the King's 
head hotel, we saw large numbers of these healthy looking lads 
strolling through the streets or listlessly idling near the cake 
shops. The yard of the school house was also well filled with 
others engaged in play- Lyon took a deep interest in the school, 
and before his death drew up a set of statutes for its government, 
with full instructions for the disposal of the estates, which he in- 
tended to appropriate to its support. Among these statutes was 
one requiring a sufficient sum to be set aside for the support of 
four of the most distinguished scholars at the universities, two at 
Cambridge and two at Oxford. In selecting them, he required 
that preference should be given to his own km, to natives ol Har- 
row and to such as are "most mete for towardness, poverty and 
painfulness." To obtain the first position at the school is a high 
honor and brings the successful pupil prominently to the public 
attention His 'future course is watched with no small interest. 
Under the head of University intelligence, the success of the Ox- 
ford dons and the Cambridge wranglers is annually given through 



104 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

all the newspapers to the country. Thus the Times refers to a 
Cambridge commencement. 

UNIVERSITY INTELLIGENCE. 

Cambridge, January 24. 

The following list of honors at the Bachelor of Arts' Commence- 
ment was issued to-day. The moderators were Percival Frost, 
M. A., St. John's; Robert Baldwin Hayward, M. A., St. John's. 
Examiners: Arthur Cockshott. M. A., Trinity ; Anthony William 
Wilson Steel, M. A., Gonville and Caius. Wranglers : Dr. 
Moulton, St. John's ; 2, Darwin. Trinity. 

[Here follows a list of forty-seven young men upon whom 
honors were conferred. Of the two highest the first and second 
senior wranglers, the Times proceeds to say :] 

Mr. John Fletcher Moulton, of St. John's College, the Senior 
Wrangler, the third son of the late Rev. J. E. Moulton, a Wes- 
leyan minister, was born at Madeley, in Shropshire, in Novem- 
ber, 1844, and is therefore just twenty-three years of age. He 
was educated at Kingswood School, Bath, under Mr. H. Jeffer- 
son, M. A. Lond, until the age of sixteen, when he presented him- 
self at the Senior Oxford Middle-class Examination and was 
placed first in the general list. For the next three } r ears he was 
engaged in tuition, during which time he matriculated at the Lon- 
don University, and carried off the exhibition in mathematics, be- 
sides passing the honorary examinations in classics and chemistry. 
From this time he seems to have devoted his attention more par- 
ticularly to mathematics, and his career has been one of unin- 
terrupted success. In April, 1864, he obtained the first Minor 
Scholarship for mathematics at St. John's College, Cambridge, 
and in June gained the Mathematical Exhibition at the first B. A. 
Examination at the London University. He subsequently grad- 
uated there, gaining the Mathematical Scholarship. In October 
of the same year he commenced residence at Cambridge, and 
during the whole of his University career, he has been at the head 
of his college examinations. In June, 1866. he was elected a 
Foundation Scholar of his College. 

Mr. E. J. Routh, of Peterhouse (Senior Wrangler in 1854), was 
Mr. Moulton's private tutor, thus adding another to the long suc- 
cession of senior wranglers who have read under his care. The 
Rev. J. V. Durell was his college tutor. 

Mr. George Howard Darwin, of Trinity College, the second 
wrangler, the second son of Mr. Charles Darwin, the well known 
author of the "Origin of Species," is in his 23rd year, and is a native 
of Down, in Kent. He was educated at the Ciapham Grammar 
School, under the Rev. Charles Pritchard, President of the Royal 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. ■ 105 

Astronomical Society, and Hulsean Lecturer at the University of 
Cambridge for 1867, the late Head Master, and the Rev. Alfred 
Wrigley, M. A., F. R. A. S., the present Head Master. In the 
Easter Term, 1866, he was elected a Foundation Scholar, and he 
has been three times Prizeman of his college. Like the Senior 
Wrangler, Mr. Darwin's private tutor was Mr. Routh, his college 
tutor being the Rev. R. Burn. 

The schools of Eton, Rugby and Winchester hold equal rank 
with Harrow. The head scholars from each, who annually enter 
the Universities, compete on their new theatres for scholastic hon- 
ors amid the anxieties of their friends and the general expectation 
of the public. The successful collegian is almost certain to pass, 
in time, from the University to some high position, sometimes into 
Parliament and sometimes at the bar. This was the case with 
William Pitt, Horace Walpole, Sir Robert Peel, Lords Aberdeen, 
Palmerston and many others. This fact refutes a charge brought 
against the English by the French that they are insensible to liter- 
ary merit and heap honors upon actresses, danseuses and song- 
stresses, who have the entretothe houses of the first nobility, while 
a poor homme de lettres is is left to starve in a garrett. 

It is true that Milton sold Paradise Lost for ^15, while Charles 
II, to whom the British Parliament granted six millions of dollars 
annually for his support, was spending hundreds of thousands upon 
his mistresses and bastards. Yet even then all England was not 
insensible to the genius of Milton, or enamored of the depravity 
of Charles. The poet's admirers were found among those from 
whom the chief glory of a nation arises, and the sovereign was 
the leader of society and those whom we might not inaptly style 
the "dangerous classes." The one was serving his God and coun- 
try, reflecting honor upon human nature, and the other entailing a 
line of spurious nobility upon England. Ignorant people in our 
day look up to and reverence those whom we are taught to style 
"our betters," and who are they? Charles II, by his mistress, 
Lucy Walton, had a son whom he created Duke of Monmouth ; 
by another favorite, Nell Gvvynn, a second son, whom he created 
Duke of Richmond, and by Barbara Vilhers he had three sons, 
one created Duke of Cleve and, the second Duke of Grafton, and 
the third Duke of Northumberland. These were a few only of 
his favorites and his bastards, and he indulged them to the utmost 
of his power. All these mistresses and their bastard sons were 
recognized at court and supplied with money to maintain their 
"exalted" rank. His unhappy Queen was obliged to humiliate 
herself and treat them with courtesy, even familiarity. The men 
who surrounded the King were of like character, and while 
Charles' reign was the most scandalous which England has ever 

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106 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

seen, those of other and even very much later sovereigns have 
been disgraced by great and disgusting immorality and licentious- 
ness. Mr. C. S Parnell, who is creating so much interest in 
this country by his eloquent appeals on behalf of his suffering 
countrymen, recently repelled, in a vigorous style, peculiar to 
himself, an attack made upon his veracity by Lord Alfred S. 
Churchill, brother of the Duke of Marlborough. When speaking 
in Springfield. Massachusetts, January 30, Mr. Parnell referred to 
Lord Alfred Churchill's cable dispatch and said ; 

"This young nobleman says that my statement that the relief 
fund of the Duchess of Marlborough is being administered for 
political purposes is false. Now I have the best and most recent 
fc information from the distressed districts that my statement is ab- 
solutely true and that all persons out of favor with their landlords 
are precluded from participation. More than one parish priest 
also hfis already complained that the fund is being administered 
for sectarian purposes. The word of a descendant, on the one 
hand, of the notorious Sarah Jennings, mistress of the Duke of 
York, and on the other hand, of Churchill, first Duke of Marlbor- 
borough, of whom Macaulay write as follows: 'That he owed 
his rise to his sister's dishonor, and that he had been kept by the 
most profuse, imperious and shameless of harlots,' will be scanned 
somewhat closely by the American people, who at least can boast 
that their ancestors were honest men and women." 

This vigorous retort tells incidentally the story of the reign of 
George III, Society took its tone from the court, and we doubt 
not in the days to which we refer, a pretty ballet girl was more 
highly esteemed in West end society than a scholar, literary man 
or statesman. Happily those days have passed away, let us hope 
never to return. Under the reign of Victoria, the Court has set 
an example of purity and domestic virtue, worthy of all praise. 
The taunt of the French in the present day is an anacronism. — 
However true it once was, it is not so in the present. This may 
be asserted with force, notwithstanding the many vices which tar- 
nished the character of the Prince of Wales in his earlier days, and 
which he has been weak and wicked enough to carry into maturer 
years. 

While the facts we have mentioned in connection with the dis- 
tinguished University student, attest the iavor with which the En- 
glish of our day, look upon the successful student and literary man, 
it cannot be denied that the chief importance is attached to wealth 
and ancient lineage. When during the Premiership of the Earl of 
Derby — 1867- 1868 — he was supposed to be dangerously ill and 
iivi politicians were casting about for a successor, the old grandees, 
their organs and supporters, spoke in the following deriding tone 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. IC7 

of Mr, Disraeli, who for many years was the intellectual leader — 
the man of brains — in the Conservative party. (Though this was 
evidently his position, it was years before the old fogies would ac- 
knowledge it.) Who, they asked, should be Premier if the failing 
health oi Lord Derby made his resignation necessary? Mr. Dis- 
raeli ? Well it can hardly be pleasant to Mr. Disraeli to find that 
very few think of him as the coming man. He is unconnected, 
landless, wanting in rank and social position, utterly unable to 
keep his party together, said even conservatives, and his oppo- 
nents expressed themselves, we need hardly say, fir more emphat- 
ically. In the popular mind it seemed necessary in a Prime Min- 
ister that he should be connected with the half dozen great houses, 
who are styled in England "our governing families;" that he 
should be a large landed proprietor, which would imbue him with 
what are called conservative influences ; that he should if possible 
be a nobleman, that is to say be of such rank as would give him 
commanding social position. All this was supposed to be neces- 
sary, but the sequel has proved that they are not always so — that 
the world moves. 

In spite of his social and pecuniary deficiencies, his Jewish ori- 
gin, his low estate, and the bitter hatred of an influential section 
of Parliament, that section led by Daniel O'Connell who denounc- 
ed him as a miscreant and wretch whose "life is a living lie" and 
finally as the "heir-at-law of the blasphemous thief who died im- 
penitent on the cross." Mr, Disraeli has risen by force of his 
splendid genius to the highest position in the state, having been 
twice Premier. During the latter and his present term of office, 
this remarkable man has extended the British Empire by vast ac- 
quisitions of territory in Africa and in India, made millions of 
British subjects and fenced them round about with what he called 
a "scientific frontier." He has also added the title of Empress to 
that of Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ire- 
land, or as it is colloquially said in England, 'made an Empress." 
At the same time, he has pursued his policy of "Empire and Lib- 
erty," and claims that he has preserved the sf.r/us quo in Europe, 
and maintained for England, peace with honor. So much for a 
man of the people, for a man of genius. A man too who, as Mr. 
Bright once said, "has not a drop of English blood in his veins" 
and who consequently met unusual opposition, and had to over- 
come extraordinary prejudice. He has that which is better than 
blue blood — to wit, brains. 

And now after his extraordinary career, his marvelous success, 
in his seventy-sixth year, he is not affected with the weakness of 
age, but is vigorous with the strength of manhood, having a seat 
in the House of Lords and possessing in a remarkable manner 



108 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

its confidence. There is only one other man in England to whom 
the destinies of the vast British Empire and the prospects of Ire- 
land are likely to be entrusted with better results, namely : Mr. 
Gladstone, Lord Beaconsfield's life-long- rival and political oppo- 
nent. Of Mr. Gladstone it may be truly said that he is Mr. Dis- 
raeli's superior every way ; more brilliant in oratory, more ster- 
ling in integrity, more sincere in his convictions, more statesman- 
like in his views, more terribly earnest in all he says and does. — 
To him the fortunes of the British Empire might be, and in our 
opinion, ought to be, entrusted by that people who will never cease 
to celebrate his pure and immortal fame. 

It was often said during our residence in England, that the Con- 
servative party, without making any professions or promises, car- 
ried through more measures of reform than the so-called Liberals. 
There was some color of reason for this remark, the fact being that 
the Liberal party ever showed the way of reform to the Tories. — 
This was the case as to Catholic emancipation ; the corn laws, and 
with the reform act of 1867. For many years previously, the Lib- 
erals preached in vain that the admission of the working classes 
to the franchise was required by the state of society, and that it 
would strengthen the constitution. When the Tories came into 
power, they who had always bitterly opposed the idea, faced about 
and passed the act extending the suffrage. Thus the Liberal par- 
ty, with such leaders as Gladstone and Bright, has ever been the 
pioneer of reform, though the Tory ministers have from time to 
tirne sought to gain the popular applause and reap the fruits of 
victory by passing the best conceived and most cherished liberal 
measures. But to return from this digression. 

Beyond the school house stands the Parish church, surrounded 
by generations of tombstones One of the first pointed out to us 
was that known as "Byron's Tomb," from the fact that it was his 
favorite resting place. He thus refers to it in his childish recollec- 
tions : 

"Oft' when oppress'd with sad, foreboding gloom 
I sat reclined upon our favorite tomb." 

It is said that he would spend hours here engaged in thought, 
chewing the cud of sweet and bitter fancies, brooding in lonliness 
over the first stirring of passion and genius in his soul, and occasion- 
ally, perhaps, indulging in those bright forethoughts of fame, under 
the influence of which, when little more than fifteen years of age, 
he wrote these remarkable lines : 

"My epitaph shall be my name alone ; 
If that with honor fail to crown my clay, 
Oh may no other fame my deeds repay ; 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 109 

That, only that, shall single out the spot, 
By that remember' d or by that forgot." 

Secured in the wails Qf the church is an ancient brass. It was 
taken from the floor of the church, where it was half concealed by 
a pew. It is engraved with a grotesque figure intended to repre- 
sent the founder of the school, and inscribed with a highly eulo- 
gistic epitaph, in what then passed for English, but which is now, 
hardly intelligible. 

After an uncommonly pleasant day spent in wandering about 
the streets and neighborhood of Harrow, we brought up at the 
Kingshead Inn for a 6 o'clock dinner. We had intended return- 
ing to London by a night train, but clouds were gathering in the 
sky, and before we were half through with "our mutton," gusts of 
wind, more like the blasts of March than the zephyrs of May, 
drove the rain drops beating in sheets against the windows. 
Arise and wander forth ? No, it was quickly decided that we 
should spend the night under the friendly shelter of the Inn. 
"You have decided wisely," said a quiet gentleman, whose name 
we soon afterwards learnt was Evershort. This respectable 
looking person was the only occupant of the room when we en- 
tered, and was dining at a small table on a chop and a pint of 
stout. Dressed in the subdued habit of a rector, he had some- 
thing decidedly clerical in his sleek appearance. "Yes," he con- 
tinued, "we shall have a bad night. Better remain here, and if 
we can get some cards we may spend a pleasant evening in spite 
of wind and weather. I suppose you all play whist; for myself 
I am very fond of a rubber." 

This speech, following what some of our party regarded as Mr; 
Evershort's rather expressive silence, took us by surprise, and our 
conversation hung fire for a few minutes like a damp squib. 
Barnwell, however, who possessed many of the good points of a 
man of the world, and was devoted to the well .known game, 
acted as our speaker. He politely responded to the advances of 
our civil neighbor, fell into a pleasant chat with him and quickly 
pledged us for a lubber. Meanwhile we had discussed, soto voce, 
whether we had not come upon a professional card sharper, who 
only wanted the opportunity to relieve us of our guineas in the 
neatest possible manner. The South Carolinian turned toward 
us, as Mr. Evershort left the room in search of his pipe, and re- 
assured us by pronouncing the quiet man as of rigid views mor- 
ally and ecclesiastically — in others words, said Barnwell, "he's the 
c'rrect card." 

Our social meal over, a comfortable cloud was blown, the quiet 
man having rejoined the party, lit his pipe and ordered a glass of 

(28) 



HO RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 






brandy and soda. The card table was now opened in front of the 
jocund fire under the brilliant gas chandalier and the rubber com- 
menced. Time wore on without any noteworthy incident, and 
we separated for the night at twelve o'clock, little having been 
won or lost. Mr. Evershort, however, was indebted to Barnwell 
in the sum of thirty shillings and being short of change promised 
to hand it to him the following morning. This, by the way, he 
forgot to do no doubt in the hurry of leaving. When we de- 
scended next morning to the breakfast room, the waiter informed 
us that our sleek friend had left two hours before. Barnwell was 
"flabbergasted" at this communication, and positively declined to 
enter into any kind of fun over the "c'rrect card." 

Immediately after our breakfast we began to consider of the 
most agreeable way of returning to town. This leads us to en- 
quire, is motion synonymous with pleasure? and is it sufficient to 
agitate ourselves to be amused ? In that case we take too much 
amusement. What shall we do this morning? What shall we 
do this afternoon ? What shall we do this evening ? It is the 
diurnal refrain, and there we go on foot, on horseback, in car- 
riages, thinking of nothing, going everywhere, with enthusiasm, 
laughter and jests, which return with us, sit down at table with us, 
dance with us, sing with us and do not leave us even at the silent 
game and when holding the "c'rrect card."* 

But to proceed. Wishing to enjoy the refreshment of another 
country walk, we descended the hill on the eastern side and struck 
off for the northern heights of London by Frognal road and 
West end lane. This route led us to Hampstead and Highgate, 
two of the most charming environs of the metropolis. Near the 
latter the Right Honorable Angela Georgiana, Baroness Burdett- 
Coutts, to give her the full title recently conferred on her by the 
British government in recognition of her many shining virtues, 
resides in Holly Lodge, surrounded by beautiful gardens and 
grounds. The hills on which these villages are situated, though 
only five miles from the Thames, are from three to four hundred 
feet higher than the surface of the water at Blackfriars Bridge. 
Their elevation, the purity of the air and water and the existence 
of one or more mineral springs in the neighborhood, have long 
made Hampstead and Highgate favorite residences for commer- 
cial and professional men. Rents are consequently from twenty 
to twenty-five per cent, higher than in any part of London, but 
the West end, and all the country hereabout, is covered with at- 
tractive looking dwellings. 

These stone, brick and stuccoed villas, with their well kept 
lawns and dainty flower beds, and surrounded by handsome 
grounds of from two to five acres, with Hampstead's free village 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. Ill 

life and retired haunts, render it the most desirable locality as a 
residence near London. 

Hampstead Heath is a rough, broken common, covered with a 
stunted growth and famous for its bracing air. In early days it 
was a haunt of wild beasts. When these were driven off. it be- 
came a place of concealment ior more dangerous characters, 
thieves, highwaymen, robbers, fugitives from justice and other 
outlaws. In the course of time the drivell.ers of fashion displaced 
the highwaymen and it degenerated into a disreputable watering 
place. About a century and a half since Hampslead occupied on 
the north the same position that Richmond assumed on the south 
side of the Thames. It was patronized by the idle, the opulent, 
the unscrupulous. The Royal family composed of George I, 
about the time he created his mistress, Sophia VVahnoden, Count- 
ess of Yarmouth, were in the habit of "honoring" Hampstead with 
their presence. On every side there were houses of amusement 
and dissipation — ball rooms, gambling hells, gin palaces, and 
bagnios, and all patronized by the elite. It was also a kind of 
Gretna Green, where unfortunate lovers, east of Temple bar and 
Blackfriars road, were united in "private" for the public amuse- 
ment. In a comedy acted at Drury Lane Theatre in 1706, en- 
titled ''Hampstead Heath," many amusing passages occur, which 
vividly describe the scenes and company in those days. 

Half a century later "the Wells" figure as semi-fashionable 
haunts in the pages of Smollet's Raderic Random and Fanny 
Burney's Evelina, and yet a generation or two, and we find them 
satirized by Lord Byron in the Childe Harold as the Sabbath 
haunts. 

"Where the spruce citizen, washed artizan, 
And snug apprentice gulp their weekly air. 
The coach of hackney, whiskey, one horse chair 

* * * * * 

To Hampstead Brentsford Harrow make repair 

# # % :fc # 

And many to the steep of Highgate hie. 

Ask ye Boeotian shades the reason why ? 

'Tis to the worship of the solemn Horn 

Grasped in the holy hand of mystery 

In whose dread name both men and maids are sworn 

And consecrate the oath with draught and dance till morn." 

It must be remembered that the expression "solemn horn," in 
these lines bears reference to an ancient tavern known as "The 
Horns" at Highgate, the host of which was wont for many years 
to pledge novices in nut brown ale, never to eat brown bread 



112 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

when they could get white, or to drink small beer, when they 
could get strong, &c. — but with a saving reservation always, "un- 
less you like the inferior article better." The custom has long 
since become obsolete, shall we add, the more's the pity ?" 

Steele lived here about the year 17 12, for the then common pur- 
pose with people who were "hard up," of eluding the vigilance of 
his creditors. During this period he composed many of his con- 
tributions to the Spectator. 

In Hampstead Church there is a tablet inscribed to the mem- 
ory of one Mr. Waad, who is described as the English Columbus. 
Some account of his voyages are contained in a work published 
in 1536, in which it is said that Waad being a man of "goodly 
statue, and of great courage, and given to study of cosmographic, 
encouraged divers gentlemen and others, being assisted by the 
King's favor and good countenance, to accompany him in a voy- 
age of discovery upon the Northwest parts of America, wherein 
his persuasions took such effect, that within short space, many 
guests of the Inns of Court and of the Chancerie, and divers 
others of good worship, desirous to see the strange things of the 
world, very willingly entered into the action with him. They 
embarked at Gravesend for Cape Breton and New Foundland, 
where they suffered from famine to such an extent that they cast 
lots and devoured each other ! Finally such of them as survived, 
among whom was Waad, were relieved by a French vessel in 
which they returned to England." 

Whether this monumental eloquence is fact or fiction does not 
appear. It strongly reminds one, however, of the witty remark 
of a wanderer through a modern cemetery : "Here lie the dead, 
and here the living lie." 

Hampstead is not now what it was. This is fortunate. With 
characteristic fickleness, fashionable society long since abandoned 
it for other haunts of folly and dissipation. The heath still re- 
mains to some extent, the same savage wild, swept by cool blasts 
and healthful breezes; the quaint red brick mansions of Tudor 
date or brown and yellow edifices of Hanoverian respectability 
still remain monuments of its departed greatness; the old crowd 
of court bucks and ladies, "all air and no dress," are no where to 
be seen nowadays. We are glad oi it. The place still has, how- 
ever, many charms, and on holidays, presents no common scene 
of gaiety. Anew company, recruited from other classes, occu- 
pies the vacant places and enlivens the scene with its coarse but 
honest jollity. It is now the resort of the inhabitants of the 
densely peopled districts of the city who fly at every opportunity 
from their sweltering confinement to luxuriate in a country at- 
mosphere and upon the sight of green fields. The splendid 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 1 13 

saloons of the past, radiant with youth, beauty, wealth and fashion, 
wit and all the seductive allurements of polished vice, have given 
place to dimly lighted tap rooms, the stale joke of the fat grocer, 
and the rough fun of the butcher boy and bar maid. In other 
words, plain but honest people replace the royal, noble and black- 
guard snobs, swells, rakes, blades and rascals of other days. 

Our visit to the heath occurred on the occasion of the Easter 
Monday holiday when thousands of the "bold peasantry, their 
country's pride," were mixed up with the denizens of London 
engaged in rural sports. The English are remarkable for their 
love of rural amusements. One of the sportive games was danc- 
ing on the green. A large party were assembled, having a "set 
to," as they called it, to the music of a violin and flagolet. The 
music was — 

"Moll in the wad and I fell out. 

And what d'ye think it was about, 

She had money, J. had none, 

And that was the way the row begun/' 

The dancing was full of the logic of the toe, not to say the fan- 
tastic toe. Double quadrills, eight on a side, making a set of 
thirty-two, were the popular figures. Dancing on the green is 
one of the most ancient popular amusements of the rustics. The 
spirit of the game consists in movement, restless activity, the ex- 
citement of motion. The young folks bound from the ground as 
if on a spring board, advance and recede, grasp each other by the 
waist and fly about like whirligigs, or as Dean Swift himself, much 
given to witness and even participate incognito in these rustic 
frolics, well expresses it in his "O'Rcurk's Bridal." 

"Hand in hand they dance around, 

Cutting capers and ramping ; 
A mercy the ground 

Does not burst with the stamping." 

Everything about the crowd when we saw it was natural, un- 
affected, full of simplicity, — their features, complexions, dress and 
attitude corresponding-, and we must confess that we looked on 
with approbation, if not admiration. We venture to record this 
while concurring in a general detestation of those fashionable 
round dances so much patronized at this day by the gay world. 
A reprehensible kind of dissipation which has caused it to be said 
somewhat axiomatically that a woman however virtuous she may 
be, ceases to be so after a waltz of three or four hours. It is a 
physiological phenomenon, which we limit ourselves to mention- 
ing, that it is no longer a woman who is held in the beau's arms, 

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114 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

no longer a thinking, reflecting human being, but if it may be so 
expressed, only a sensation ready to quiver at the least contact. 

At a short distance another game was progressing, called "kiss- 
ing in the ring," As this game is played with some difference, 
we will describe it as we saw it. A ring is formed on the green by 
the young people of both sexes joining hands. There are often 
as many as a hundred in a single ring, a half dozen young girls or 
more then enter the arena, and moving around, each selects the 
handsomest young man, to whom she throws her handkerchief ; 
she then bounds away, breaking through the ring and flying over 
the common, the young man in pursuit. He does not find it diffi- 
cult to overtake the blushing girl, and after considerable resistance, 
and no small amount of rough embracing, but devoid of vulgarity, 
she is brought back to the enclosure, where in the presence of all 
she is saluted with a smacking kiss. They both then join hands 
and take their position in the ring. After all the girls have thrown 
the handkerchief and gone through the process of being kissed in 
the ring, the young men enter the circle and throw a bandanna to 
the romping girls. They in turn fly and are pursued and brought 
back and saluted in the same hearty manner. Frequently as 
many as a dozen pairs are in the circle at the same time paying 
the soft penalty. While this is going on those who form the ring- 
are pulling and swaying to and fro, indulging in all kinds of mer- 
riment and not infrequently huzzaing the too evident gusto with 
which some rustic beau takes his kiss. This is a favorite game 
with maid servants and sailors, and many matches date their origin 
from this custom. Whatever objection the refined and elegant 
may find to this promiscuous assemblage of the sexes, it is doubt- 
ful whether anything more full of innocence and gayiety could be 
devised for the amusement of young folks. We are satisfied that 
these recreations in which the women share or humanize by their 
presence, are in the highest degree conducive to the health and 
rational enjoyment of the lower classes and that the objection to 
them comes from old maids whose sensitive natures are unduly 
frightened at the idea of collecting both sexes for the purpose of 
recreation. If music and square dancing are innocent for the 
higher orders, why are they sinful for the lower? 

Notwithstanding all the maiden blues can do, all the care taken 
by the ancient prude and spinster to banish everything like merry 
making from all but the rich, with a view to the public morals, 
female chastity before marriage is confessedly at a low ebb among 
the inferior classes, both in town and country. And we cannot 
but think that it is somewhat due to the course of our spinsters in 
discouraging open air amusements, as they unquestionably, to our 
mind, tend to virtue rather than vice. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. II5 

A pleasant stroll of two miles through a shaded lane on the sides 
of which at suitable intervals, wooden benches are placed for the 
benefit of pedestrians, brings you to Highgate. These seats under 
the old oaks are favorite spots, where congregate comfortable 
looking nurses around whom cluster children of all ages, from the 
rosy Miss of two years to the stately gentleman of eight. We 
never cease to admire the English nurses. They have an especi- 
ally maternal manner and appearance. Blue of eye, red of tint, 
broad of shoulder and kind of tongue, they are the centre of that 
solar system, round which toddle and tumble in eccentric orbits, 
those wonderful planets— little children. 

Such notices as this on the wooden benches -serve to protect 
them : "Do not abuse what is intended for the public benefit." 
Similar notices preserve the flowers and shrubs in all the London 
parks. In conspicuous places on boards in large letters the visitor 
reads: "It is hoped that the public will abstain from destroying 
that which is cultivated for the public gratification." This is per- 
fect ; the aim of every society is that each one should be always 
his own constable and end by not having any other. 

On the opposite side of the Hill from Hampstead and near its 
base in front of a Tom and Jerry Shop, fixed in the ground, on 
the road side, is a small gray stone which marks the spot where 
the celebrated Whittington halted to rest and ruminate over his 
hard fate when leaving London for the country and where he 
heard the peals of the Bow bells, which seemed to utter the gentle 
and heart cheering admonition, "Turn again Whittington, Lord 
Mayor of London town." Everywhere in this neighborhood you 
observe in the shop signs how highly the memory of this civil 
patriot and munificent benefactor of the poor is still appreciated. 
One establishment is called "The Whittington." Another "The 
Whittington Cat." Another "Whittington and his Cat," nor 
should we omit to add that one of the most thriving reunions of 
the London middle-classes bears the name of the "Whittington 
Club." 

The Mill is crowned by Highgate church, from the cemetery 
of which a wide prospect of the surrounding country, including 
the metropolis, is obtained. Highgate, like its neighbor, has long 
been a favorite haunt of Londoners, but by reason of its closer 
proximity to the city, is rapidly losing its ancient rural characteris- 
tics and becoming a modern town. As an evidence of its remark- 
able healthfullness, it is said that not a case of the plague occurred 
here during the period when it scourged London in the reign of 
Charles II. 

The unfortunate Arabella Stuart, who was like Lady Catherine 
Gray, in close proximity to the throne, and whose only crime was 






Il6 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

marrying" the man she loved, was for some time imprisoned in a 
house still standing at Highgate. She disguised herself in a suit 
of men's clothes and escaped. Taking a boat on the Thames, she 
soon got aboard a French barque lying off Gravesend, where she 
wished to await the arrival of her husband, Lord Seymour, then 
a prisoner in the Tower, with whom the projected flight had been 
concerted. Her friends dissuaded her from this course and the 
barque dropped down the river and into the channel where anchor 
was cast. Meanwhile Seymour escaped from the Tower and pro- 
ceeded down the river, but not seeing the French barque, engaged 
another vessel to land him at Calais, to which place he made good 
his escape. His absence from the Tower was soon discovered and 
several ships of war sent in pursuit — -one of which overtook the 
barque containing his wife, which after a short engagement was 
captured and Arabella Stuart returned to London where she was 
confined as a State prisoner in the Tower. She bore her fate with 
cheerfulness, when she heard that her husband was safe in France, 
but her spirit was soon broken by grief and solitary confinement, 
and she became insane and died in this condition after four year's 
imprisonment. 

At the period of the restoration Seymour returned to England 
and was created by Charles II, in grateful recognition of his fidel- 
ity, Earl of Hertford. He ever cherished a romantic affection for 
the Lady Arabella and named his eldest daughter by his second 
wife after her. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. II7 



CHAPTER XI. 



A LONDON LAW COURT — THE ENGLISH ON AMERICA — THE DUKE 
OF SOMERSET — THE LAND LAWS, &C — THE COURTS OF QUEEN'S 
BENCH AND EXCHEQUER — NOMINATION OF SHERIFFS —LORD 
MAYOR'S BANQUETS — THE RIGHT HON. WM. CUBITT, M. P., LORD 
MAYOR OF LONDON — A VILLAGE GRAVEYARD — CURIOUS 
EPITAPHS. 



When returning one day through Westminster Hall, from a 
visit to the House of Commons, we were struck with the counte- 
nances of a number of persons lounging in the neighborhood of a 
door, upon the left hand side and half way down the vestibule. 
"Easter term has just begun," said our companion, Dr. Norton 
Shaw, "let us take a look at the court." 

"Easter term has begun!" What a tremendous meaning these 
simple words have for thai unfortunate class of human beings 
called clients. Almost unconsciously we stopped to scrutinize the 
wretched people pressing towards the temple of judicature. Al- 
most every passion which can excite the human mind was depict- 
ed in the countenances of that miserably agitated crowd. There 
was the eager, grasping creditor, gloating over the prospect of 
making good his "pound of flesh," and there his hapless victim, 
despair pictured in every line of his countenance, and there the 
sly, sinister- visaged scoundrel waiting the result of his cruel 
plans to over - reach the unwary victim. On every side 
the wretched victims of the law's uncertainty and delay, of the 
pettifogger's rapacity, the knave's talent for stirring up dissension, 
creating discord, and transferring to his own pockets the substance 
of the ignorant, helpless and unwary who have fallen into his hands 
and are at his mercy. 

With a soothing sense of relief that we were non-litigant and 
non expectant, the thought occurred to us whether it was possible 
that any human being but a hungry attorney could look upon that 
picture of passion, of hopes and tears, and not feel that ignorance 
is bliss in everything connected with suits in law and suits in 
equity. 

During a protracted residence in the mother country, we heard 
so much derogatory of American courts, of the practical denial ol 
justice in them, that we formed a high opinion, indeed, of what 
was always held up to our admiration in contrast therewith — 

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Il8 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

namely, the British tribunal. It was a common thing to hear 
American courts spoken of as if such a thing as justice was alto- 
gether unknown to them. Returned cockney tourists, big with 
travelers' stories and virtuous indignation, declared that in the 
United States, more particularly in New York, it was not only the 
common, but the right thing, to bribe judge and jury, and to 
suborn witnesses. Shocking accounts of James Fisk's connection 
with the Erie railroad swindles were related, and of the manner in 
which he was encouraged and protected in them by the New York 
courts. With agreeable merriment, the Tammany ring robberies 
bf : the city treasury, New York, and the "brilliant career" of Boss 
Tweed were enlarged upon, and also the operations of Jay Gould, 
James McHenry and other railroad "financiers," as well as the 
^'eccentricities" of Gen. Belknap and the whisky rings. All the 
facts were given with an extraordinary amount of fiction until the 
whole affair seemed very much like "Yankee Doodle," with vari- 
ations. The substance of all these horrible narratives was that 
tHere was a total denial of justice in American courts, a collusion 
between judge, jury, witnesses, lawyers and suitors for the purpose 
of robbing litigants and enriching themselves on the spoils. Bri- 
gandage in Spain and Italy was represented as a flea bite in com- 
parison with the luxury of going to law in America. A suitor 
when entering a New York court was said to take leave of hope as 
Dante represented was the case with the lost soul when entering 
the infernal region. So much in this spirit, vein and humor had 
been said in our presence, if not addressed to us — when addressed 
to us, of course, always in the politest manner — by our mellifluous 
and self satisfied British cousins, and always in contrast with what 
our modest relatives asserted was the unsullied purity of their own 
bench and bar, that we confess we approached the portals of 
one of England's principal courts with a respect much akin to 
reverence. 

Years have since passed away and a long residence in Britain 
satisfies us that there was no occasion for emotion on approaching 
the courts of Westminster ; that in fact, justice is about as indiff- 
erently administered in that venerable pile, as in our own much 
abused tribunals. Probably no where in the world is such high 
flown nonsense talked about justice as in England, and probably 
nowhere is it more difficult to obtain substantial, cheap, immediate 
redress for wrong or injury. The truth is there can hardly be said 
to be such a thing as a well defined and understood law governing 
any case. Shelves groan with books of precedents, but these con- 
flict as often as they agree. Miles of statutes have been enacted, 
but one half of them contradict the other half Hundreds of thous- 
ands of subtle and acute intellects have thought out "cases," but 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. I 19 

each is designed to upset some case which preceded it. The re- 
sult is that instead of an easily understood, clear, comprehensive 
code of laws, the English are burdened with a veritable labyrinth 
of obsolete phrases and still more obsolete ideas, among which 
justice is eternally losing her way. No man can hope to do more 
than master certain parts of this inchoate and useless jargon, and 
so from age to age the abuse grows larger and larger, the courts 
become more and more expensive, and suits of all kinds more 
costly, more hazardous and more unsatisfactory when they are 
concluded. As laws aie made by lawyers, it is difficult to under- 
stand where reform is to come from. It is this which really bars 
the way to judicial reform, either partial or extensive. But until 
there is reform in these matters and English justice becomes a little 
more just, and bears a less resemblance to trickery it behooves 
Englishmen to cultivate more modesty in their comments upon 
what they term the shortcomings of the American system What- 
ever bold front John Bull may show to the "intelligent foreigner" 
in favor of the stability of all British institutions, public opinion in 
Eng'and is ripe for a change not only in the land laws, but in the 
entire system of laws, both municipal and constitutional. A few 
year's residence in the country satisfied us on this point — 
There is not an intelligent man of business in England who has 
ever been engaged in legal transactions, who does not know to 
his cost the petty pieces of legerdemain by which solicitors, for 
example, divide with accountants every divisible fragment of a 
bankrupt's estate, leaving the unfortunate creditor in payment of 
his debts, a lithographic copy of the accounts, and the memory of 
a swindle. While the law makers are selected from the class who 
themselves fatten on the law, who can expect they will permit, 
much less foster, any measure which they fear will curtail their own 
incomes. This much we venture to remark on this important 
subject — some of it was applicable a few years since to our own 
country— and without intending to cast wholesale censure and 
accusations of fraud and lolly against a whole body of men Yet 
we repeat that it is not going too far to assert that lawyers favor 
the present obscurity of the law, and will always exert the whole 
of their vast, influence to keep it involved. The means of their 
living they imagine is inextricably associated with its inextricable- 
ness. To Simplify statutes and make criminal and civil offences 
less the jungle they now are, would be in their opinion to make 
lawyers a luxury instead of a necessity. And for this reason, if 
for no other, the profession in England has always been found vo- 
ting against reform and impeding judicial progress. It is much to 
be regretted that the prejudice against everything American is so 
great that they do not try our experiment of codifying and sim- 



120 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 






plifying the laws, the pleadings and all the procedures of the 
courts. Such a course has not been found in the United States to 
materially affect the profits of the profession to the honest practi- 
tioner. On the contrary, nowhere is it better understood that the 
man who acts as his own counsel has a fool for his client. 

The English prejudice against everything American, we must 

'sky rn passant, has been recently illustrated in a clumsy way by 
trie Duke of Somerset, (to whom we introduced our reader in the 
sixth chapter as an oppressor of his tenantry,) in a work published 

' last year by "his grace," entitled "Monarchy and Democracy. ' 
Monarchy in England he considers to be as good as dead already, 
although he thinks that there is danger of its being galvanized 
into a sort of life by the reckless action of those people who sup- 
port Lord Beaconsfield in his efforts to exalt the Crown. To that 
extent he is right, except that he confounds with the English na- 
tion the electors who gave Lord Beaconsfield a majority in Par- 
liament ; in all the rest of his book he is altogether wrong. The 
. twaddle of this aged driveler is in curious contrast with John 
Bright's recent speech at Birmingham. Mr. Bright showed that 
England had progressed wonderfully during the past 50 years 
through the growth of popular power and the gradual overthrow 
of political abuses. The Duke of Somerset thinks England has 
been going down hill during tire past 50 years, just because so 
many political abuses have been overthrown. He looks back 
almost with tearful eyes on the state of things existing before the 
Reform act of 1832 was passed, the time when as he says "the 
aristocratic patron, the jobbing borough-monger, the self elected 
corporation, the venal freeman, 'and the drunken pot-walloper, 
nominated a considerable proportion of the House of Commons !" 
That was the golden age. of England, he says, when the "glorious 
British constitution" was in its most glorious condition. True he 
would have preferred a rule of "aristocratic patrons" alone, without 
the drunken pot- wallopers and their allies; but as they were part 
and parcel of the same system he reverences them all. Will it be 
believed that in this year of grace 1880, a duke, who was once a 
cabinet minister, would have the effrontery to say this to the en- 
lightened, liberty loving people of England, among whom Repub- 
lican sentiments are growing daily ? Yet so it is. The Bourbons 
learn nothing and forget nothing. The Duke devotes irtany chap- 
ters to sneering at and slandering all reforms and all reformers. — 
Frankness about the working classes, the proletariat as he calls 
them, is impossible with him. He writes thus: "In all accumula- 
tions of animal matter there is an immediate tendency to ferment, 
and a crowd of human beings is especially liable to effervescence." 
Here is a noble duke who compares the people of England to 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 121 

nothing better than putrifying "animal matter," and yet he is not 
only tolerated, but by a certain class is reverenced. In looking back 
upon the history of England we can find nothing good within a half 
century which has come from the Tory party of which the Duke is 
one of the leaders. The history of Tories is a struggle to preserve the 
status quo of class privilege and popular ignorance and subjection. 
Toryism is intense in proportion to the injustice or inequality of 
which it is the offspring. It contains many stupid people, no doubt, 
whose interest is more imaginary than real, but as a whole it is the 
party of privilege, and as such, hostile to change, however salutary it 
may appear to the philanthropist. There will always be tories, We 
fear, in England and in every country, for to abolish them would be 
to abolish selfishness and stupidity. To get rid of them would be 
to renovate the mind and conscience of mankind 1 . 

His grace traces all the tendency to change in England to the ' 
example of America and consequently he hates America-and ev-' 
erything American. 

This aged fribbler belongs evidently to that old nobility which., 
is more venerable than valuable, and his friends, if frjends such a 
man can have, will regret the closing years of his life in acts of 
charity and repentance, rather than in an exhibition of his narrow 
political views and his scoffing infidelity. Among the hideous 
spectacles of his declining years has been his malevolent attacks 
on Christianity. Nothing more is needed to make him appear 
odious. Americans can afford toletthem pass in contempt, firm, 
as every true born American is, in a fervent belief in the principle 
of human solidarity, and in the ultimate reign of Democracy and 
fraternity the world over. 

Let us get back to a more pleasing and reputable subject by re- 
joining our reader, whom we have left so long standing in West 
minster hall in front of an imposing looking door, which interpos- 
ses between the outside world and the dignified body of a British 
Court. Mounting a few steps and pushing open two doors, one 
within the other, and which move smoothly and noiselessly on 
their" hinges, we find ourselves in the presence of — an old woman, 
sitting at an apple stall, supplemented with a collection of stale 
ginger bread and cheap lollipops, and close by the side of a roar- 
ing fi're. This is the lobby of the Court of the Queen's Bench, 
and the huge fire is intended to heat the court room, which it 
does by a system of flues. The old woman who does not object 
to the temperature of Madeira, with her solitary apple and 
stall, is all that is left of the famous array of shops which once 
graced Westminster Hall, constituting its chief attraction and 
making it a fashionable promenade. The Court of Queen's Bench 
is so called from the ancient custom of holding courts before the 



(3i) 



122 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

monarch in person, and the writs of summons still run in the an- 
cient formula, citing the litigant parlies to appear before "ourselves 
at Westminster." 

Leaving the roaring fire and the old woman in possession of the 
lobby now at a heat of. we imagine, at least ioo ' Fahr., we passed 
through another door and were at once in the presence of the 
court. The chamber is some forty feet square and as many in 
height. Tt is dimly lighted from a domed circular lantern in the roof. 
Under a carved canopy in front of the royal arms, raised upon a 
kind of dias, sit four yellow-tanned, mummy-like objects, their 
heads enveloped in immense gray wings, amplified by two side 
appendages that rest upon the shoulders. Their bodies were cov- 
ered with scarlet gowns, redundant in material and disposed in 
ample folds and broidered with ermine tippets and cuffs. Though 
the dress is barbarous, it is imposing, and in a degree dignified, 
and seems to verify Shakespear's acute remark, "through tattered 
clothes small voices do appear, robes and furred gowns hide all." 
Below the judges sat on benches behind a long table covered with 
green baize, the registers and masters of the Court, and below 
these the lawyers engaged in the case before the Court ; below 
these again the bar, opposite to and facing the judges. The heads 
of all covered with grey wigs which brought to o ;r mind the ex- 
clamation of one who loved them not, "Oh, men, with heads cloth- 
ed in horse hair and effrontery." The bodies of all these men of 
the law were enveloped in flowing black gowns, their feet cased in 
shining patent leather pumps with silver buckles, and from their 
breasts depended a couple of clerical looking bands of the finest 
cambric. A violet colored bag crammed to bursting was near 
each one, and a bundle of parchments tied with red tape. These 
learned gentlemen are the incarnation of legal wisdom and expe- 
rience ; the experts who handle the machinery of the law and 
expedite or frustrate as the case may be, the decrees of even 
handed justice. Below them, in a kind of pit, are the clients, wit- 
nesses and other interested parties. Behind these there are sev- 
eral consecutive rows of seats, filled with attorneys, barristers and 
the bar generally, and behind these, rows of benches rise, one 
above another, on which the public find seats. These, whenever 
an interesting case is before the Court, are filled to overflowing.— 
Notwithstanding the large crowd, the utmost quietness — the near- 
est possible approach to silence — prevails. The slightest noise or 
disturbance, a hum of voices, or a shuffling of feet, is quelled in a 
moment, by an admonitory "hush-sh — sh," which passing around 
subsides into stillness. These disturbances rarely arise with the 
spectators, but generally originate with the gentlemen in wigs and 
g owns, 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 123 

Upon the occasion of our visit, the case in progress was on a 
motion for a new trial in a case of libel and seemed to create unu- 
sual interest in spectators and professionals The counsel for the 
plaintiff, who interlarded every period with "my lud" and "ver lud 
ship*' was zealously endeavoring to impress the bench with a sens 
of the profound injur)' his client had received from the libeler. — 
Hut the chief was not very penetrable to the Counsel's arguments 
— seemed to understand just what was pertinent to the case and 
how much to credit to bunkum. He interrupted the "learned coun- 
sel" as his lordship styled him, with much courtesy, in the middle 
of a rather monotonous piece of legal rhetoric and questioned 
him as to certain admissions which the plaintiff had made to one 
of his own witnesses. These cannot be denied and they constitute 
in his lordship's opinion, a justification of the terms complained of 
as libelous ; and in two or three words the rule nisi for a new trial 
was refused. The counsel's unexhausted resources of wind were 
choked down for another occasion. The disconcerted counsel, his 
chagrin softened by the consideration of the judge, who interlard- 
ed every period with "my learned friend," bagged his papers and 
disappeared, his face flushed and his wig all awry, while the next 
case was called. 

As the learned counsel retired there was no demonstration on 
part either of the bar or spectators. The decision was received 
as a decree of fate which must be submitted to in silence. The 
slightest demonstration of either approbation or censure would 
have been instantly checked by the court officials. This singular 
gravity on part of the spectators was something for which we were 
hardly prepared. Dr. Shaw, however, explained that they were 
for the most part old stagers at the law, who had in times past lost 
and won many a cause. The destiny of many had thus been de- 
cided for life, and from having long lived in the excitement of the 
courts, they could not live without it. Besides being always within 
convenient reach of the officer they served on many juries and thus 
picked up an honest. penny and a poor living. There are not a few 
men of this kind, who without the slightest interest in any cause to be 
tried, are as punctual in their attendance as the judges, and who 
are never known to be absent during a single day or single hour 
while the court is open. "I have been a guide, showing people 
over the Parliament 'ouse, 'all, and habby thirty years," said a dirty 
stranger- who held out to us a dirty paper, containing his testimo- 
nials of character and efficiency as a guide, and who essayed to 
scrape acquaintance with inveterate politeness of language and un- 
assailable composure of manner on the prospect oi being employed 
as a guide, "and 'ave never seen the Judge happear without Hold 
Timmy Smith hind Freddy Bu/lcr. People do say Timmy bun- 



124 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

derstands more law 'an hany of the bar and that 'is Lordship 'ave 
been known to hask 'is opinion on a knotty pint."' 

The interesting manner, we may remark parenthetically, in which 
this cockney dropped his h's reminds us of an amusing anecdote 
or two in illustrating this inveterate habit with a certain class of 
English people. A student at one of the two British military 
academies had copied a drawing of a scene in Venice, and in copy- 
ing the title had spelled the name of the city I 'ennice. The draw- 
ing master put his pen through the surperfluous letter, observing, 
"Don't you know, sir, that there is but one hen in Venice?" on 
which the youth buist out laughing. Being asked what he was 
laughing about, he replied he was thinking how uncommonly scarce 
eg£>s vnist be there. The master, in wrath, reported him to the 
Colonel in command, a Scotchman. He hearing the disrespectful 
reply, without in the least seeing the point of the joke, observed, 
"an a verra naatural observation too." 

A barber while operating on a gentleman during the cholera 
epidemic, said, "After all, the cholera is in the hair." "Then ' re- 
plied the customer, "you ought to be very careful what brushes 
you use." 

"Oh sir," replied the barber, laughing, "I did not mean the 'air 
of the 'ed, but the hair of the hatmosphere." 

And one seasoned cockney tells another, "My 'ed used to hake 
ready to bust " 

These illustrations of a vulgar habit are not given solely be- 
cause they amuse, but because it furnishes us the opportunity to 
say that we regard the care of the English language as at all 
times a sacred trust and most important privilege of the upper 
classes. Every man of education should make it the object oi 
his increasing concern to preserve his language pure and entire, 
and to speak it, so far as in his power, in all its beauty and per- 
fection. 

It must not be forgotten, however, that we are in the court 
room. In casting our eyes over the audience, it was not difficult 
to distinguish the old attendants from the rest of the listeners, 
who were now, many of them, for the first time in their lives be- 
fore a court. They are excited and unable to settle comfortably 
in a seat. If they do so for a moment they are up and off at a 
tangent, as some sudden thought strikes them. Rushing to the 
apple stall to cool their fever with gin and a temperature of 
ioo°, or to write a note at one of the desks in the rear, of which 
there are always several available, and thus to inform their coun- 
sel of some vital point forgotten till that moment, or perhaps never 
before imagined. 

From the Court of Oueen's bench we returned through the 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 1 25 

lobby to Westminister Hall and entered the second side-door 
which introduced us to the Court of Exchequer. This Court ex- 
ercises functions extra judicial, and keeps up the observance of 
certain traditionary customs and rites, as for example it regulates 
the election of sheriffs. As the English mode of electing the 
sheriffs is peculiar and unlike anything American it will not be 
uninteresting to give a brief account of it. Annually on the day 
after St. Mai tin's, November 12, a Privy Council is held to re- 
ceive the report of the Judges, of the persons eligible in the sev- 
eral counties to serve as sheriff. The chancellor of the Exchequer 
sits upon the bench arrayed in a figured silk gown, trimmed with 
gold, (this is the only occasion on which the chancellor of the 
Exchequer takes his seat in this court). Next are the members 
of the Privy Council, the Lord Chancellor and Judges of the 
Queen's Bench and Common Pleas; below sit the Judges and 
chief Baron of Exchequer, and on the left the remembrancer or 
recorder of the Court. The names of three persons in each 
county who are eligible for sheriff are reported by the judges 
when excuses for exemption may be pleaded. When the Privy 
Council have considered the list, the names are finally approved 
by the Queen in Privy Council, which is done by Her Majesty 
pricking through the names approved on a sheet of paper called 
the Sheriff's Roll. There is au exception to this mode in case of 
the sherifts of London and Middlesex, who are chosen bv the 
Livery, but are presented on the morrow of the Eeast of St. 
Michael, in the Court of Exchequer, accompanied by the Lord 
Mayor and Alderman, when the Recorder introduces the sheriffs 
and details their family history, and the Cursitor Baron, an officer 
of the Court who attends at Westminster to open the Court prior 
to the commencement of each of the fixed terms, and on the last 
day after each term to close the court, signifies the sovereign's 
approval ; the writs and appearances are read, recorded and 
filed, and the sheriffs and senior under sheriffs take the oaths, and 
the late sheriffs present their accounts. At this point the crier of 
the court makes proclamation for one who does homage for the 
Sheriffs of London, to "stand forth and do his duty;" then the 
senior alderman below the chair rises, the usher of the court 
hands him a bill-book, and holds in both hands a small bundle of 
sticks, which the alderman cuts asunder, and then cuts another 
bundle with a hatchet. Similar proclamation is then made for the 
Sheriffof Middlesex, when the alderman counts six horseshoes 
lying upon the table, and sixty-one hob nails handed in tray, and 
the members are declared twice. By the first service the alder- 
man does service for the tenants of a manor in Shropshire, the 
chopping of sticks betokening the customs of the tenants supply- 

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126 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

ing their lord with fuel. The counting of the horse shoes and 
nails is another suit and service of the owners of a forge .in St. 
Clement Danes strand, which formerly belonged to the city, but 
no longer exists, while as to the manor in Shropshire, even a cen- 
tury ago no one knew where the lands were situated, nor did the 
city receive any rents or profits from them. 

Annually on the 9th of November the Lord Mayor's procession 
takes place from the city to Westminster. It is conducted at the 
present day with all the barbaric splendor of early days, interferes 
with the business of the Metropolis and excites the ridicule of 
ioreigners, but the English cling to it with a kind of childish de- 
light. On the arrival of the pageant at Westminister, the Court 
of Exchequer administers the oath to the new Lord Mayor. At 
the same time the late Lord Mayor renders his accounts, and the 
Remembrancer invites the Barons to the banquet at Guildhall, 
This annual feast, where all that can delight the gastronomist is 
displayed in bounteous profusion, is one of the "institutions" of 
old England. It is attended by the Cabinet ministers, prominent 
M. P's. and other officials, the foreign Ambassadors and distin- 
guished strangers. All the circumstances connected with this 
repast are too well known and are moreover not of sufficient im- 
portance to bear being communicated to the reader. 

It may not be uninteresting to add to what we have said a brief 
sketch of the Lord Mayor holding office on our arrival in London 
and the munificent banquets which he gave during his year of 
civil mayoralty. 

An invitation to attend one of these feasts led to our acquaint- 
ance with Mr. Wm. Cubitt, M. P., and we have rarely known a 
better specimen of a straightforward, blunt, honest man, whose 
true merits rest on performances. Mr. Cubitt belongs to that class 
of successful men, so esteemed the world over by right minded 
people, who have been the chief architects of their own fortunes 
and fame. He has had none of the advantages which attach to 
birth and aristocratic friends or to fortune, but has carved out his 
passage to wealth and distinction by his own skill, industry and 
enterprise. Mr. Cubitt's career is a refutation of the popular er- 
ror somewhat prevalent in this country, that no one can rise in 
England without the prestige of rank and wealth. He is sprung, 
like Mr. Gladstone and very many others now eminent, from the 
middle class, and was brought up to business. By persevering 
industry, good sense and the practice of those homely and truly 
domestic virtues comprehended in ''Early to bed and early to 
rise, make a man healthy, w r ealthy and wise," has risen step by 
step to occupy a distinguished position in station and society. The 
borough of Andover first honored itself by honoring Mr. Cubitt 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 127 

with a seat in Parliament in the year 1847, and this, too, in prefer- 
ence to a gentleman enjoying the honors of an escutcheon and the 
claims of an aristocratic birth. It was a fine tribute to his moral 
worth, for much as he is distinguished for his sound sense and 
good judgment, he is loved more for his benevolence, his virtue 
and honesty. "It is not," we may add in the words of Sir Walter 
Raleigh, "tor their wisdom that we love the wisest, nor in their wit 
that we love the wittiest, but for their moral worth ; the other qual- 
ities only make us proud of their acquaintance." Though pos- 
sessing no parts of an orator, by his industry and application to 
his legislative duties, his zealous advocacy of conservative princi- 
ples and his suavity of manner, he soon gained a strong position 
in the House. To his suavity he adds a felicitous good humor, 
an even temperament and happy disposition on all occasions. He 
has done since entering into political life what so few public men 
do, established a character for honesty and sincerity. Thus though 
possessing few of those shining qualities, which distinguish many 
of his colleagues, he possesses more weight and influence. 

He has gained his position, not by the length of his speeches, 
has rarely been seen "on his legs," but by the silent, unwearied 
energy with which he watches and takes part in the progress of 
legislation. Though chosen by the particular district of Andover, 
he has always felt since the election that he served for the whole 
realm, that he did not enter the House for the specific duty of 
representing Andover, but for the general purpose of serving the 
public, that it was not for the .single advantage of his own district, 
but for that of his country. 

. During numerous conversations we had the pleasure to hold 
with Mr. Cubitt, about the time and subsequent to the occasion of 
his Guildhall Hall banquet, he spoke to us of the secret of his suc- 
cess in life. The substance of what he said was that his rule had 
been deliberately to consider, before he commenced, whether a 
thing was practicable. If not practicable he did not attempt it. — 
If it was practicable he w^ould accomplish it, if he gave sufficient 
pains to it, and having begun he never stopped till the thing was 
done. 

Mr. Cubitt is now in his seventieth year, but in full possession of 
his health and faculties. Is of medium height, pleasing counte- 
nance and unaffected demeanor and more like a quiet country gen- 
tleman than an old politician long accustomed to public life and 
the blandishments of West-end society. A finer specimen of hon- 
est John Bull could not be found. Much as he has accomplished, 
evidently he is a man capable of greater things than he has per- 
formed. There are many such men in the world. They seem 
sent amdno- men with bills of credit, which from a sense of their 



128 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

own strength ; the plentitude of their own resources, a conscious- 
ness of their ability to secure when they please to put forth their 
power ; they seldom draw to their full extent. Within six months 
of the period when these lines were written, we went to Sir Wil- 
liam's country seat near Dorking, one of the most elegant homes 
of Old England, and amidst scenery unsurpassed for its beauty. 
And, alas, that it must be said, within a few months of this time 
the glorious old man sunk into an honored grave. 

Returning from our visit to Mr. Cubitt's, we passed near Craw- 
ley and entered the village churchyard of Barstow. 

During the short time we remained here we copied the follow- 
ing quaint and curious inscriptions from the tombs. They are now 
given verbatim et literatim, the grammar, rhyme and reason, cap- 
ital letters, punctuation and orthography, just as we found them. 

r 

All human things are subject to decay, 

And when death summons mortals must obey. 

II. 

Of all things Certain unto our Eye, 

Nothing's more Certain than we're born to die. 

III. 

Let angels guard the sleeping dust, My soul to Christ in whom I trusi 
And when I wake with great Surprise, in my Saviour hope to rise. 

IV. 
Spectators here behold the Earthly grave, from Death's due debts none my life 

would save, 
Then weep not husband nor my children dear, I am not lost, but only sleeping 

here, 

V. 
We here doth lie turn'd to clay 
Until the resurrection day, 
When we account to God must give 
How we on earth our lives did live, 

VI. 

Though suddenly from me my life was took 
I hope the Lord has not my soul forsook, 
Therefore dear friends, lament for me no more 
I am not lost but only gone before. 

VII. 

I come into this world indeed. I saw it was in vain, 
I therefore did return with speed into my God again. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 129 

VIII. 
All you in strength that here pass by 
Think on the Dead that doth here lie, 
And when you think remember that 
The grave you're sure will be your lot. 

IX. 
My glass is run, my time is spent 
And Christ my God have for me sent. 
Come trim your lamps and with your oil prepare to go 
For God will call for you also. 
X. 
With my God I hope to rest, and with my Savior Jesus Christ, 
The pains of Death I have gone through and so I bid the world adieu. 

XI. 
Censure not rashly nature apt to halt 
That man's Onborn that dies without a fault. 

XII. 

Sleep on sweet babes and take thy rest 
And live with Christ among the blest. 

XIII. 
O ! husband dear my time is past 
My love remained while life did last 
Let none for me to sorrow take 
But love my children for my sake. 
My body now is turned to Dust, 
My soul to Christ in whom I trust. 

XIV. 

While on earth I did remain 
My latter end was grief and pain, 
God took me when it pleased him best 
My soul in Heaven I hope to Rest. 

XV. 
In youthful inscence my mind was cheerful bent 
I did not dream of Death, till Death to me was sent 
How soon the thread of life was Broke into with me. 
Death may not seem near you and yet be at your feet 
To meet you in that place whare joy never ends 
How happy I shall be to meet there dear friends. 



(33) 



130 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 






XVI. 

O fatal Death that could no longer spare, a tender wife and loving mother dear, 
Her loss is great to those she left behind, a sincere Christian and a friend, 
She has gone awhile before a debt to pay 
Pray God prepare us all for that great Day. 

XVII. 
When God cuts off the thread of Life 
Then fatal death parts man and wife. 
Therefore my Husband and children dear, 
I am not lost but sleeping here. , 

XVIII. 
This world is a city full of crooked streets 
Death is a market place we all must meet. 
If life were merchandize, the Rich could buy 
Then they would live and the Poor must die. 

XIX. 

Here lies a woman who lived a sober life 
A tender mother and a loving wife 
A good neighbor and a faithful friend, 
And as she lived we hope soon to end 

It is remarkable that so many quaint and curious epitaphs should 
be found in one village cemetery. We were told the presiding 
genius of the place was the blacksmith. He must, however, have 
simply been the imitator of some preceding genius loci, as many 
of these memorials showed symptoms of great age. Leaving the 
sacred spot with many of Harvey's meditations passing through 
our mind almost as if they were our own, we stepped into a rail- 
way carriage and were soon again under the smoke of London. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 131 



CHAPTER XII. 



SANITARY SCIENCE — HOUSE AND TOWN SEWERAGE — ITS INFLU- 
ENCE ON HEALTH AND LONGEVITY. 

The present era is remarkable for the commencement of what 
may be called a new science, which has for its direct object the 
extension, so far as means may avail, of the average duration of 
human life. It would be culpable ingratitude not to hail with san- 
guine hope the energy of the sanitary movement which now per- 
vades the land. It will not, perhaps, be until one or two genera- 
tions., that much impression will be made by its agency on exist- 
ing evils. But posterity will, probably, see the public mind sub- 
mitting to be enlightened and the public will directed by men who 
have rendered themselves competent to the office. The result 
will, in all likelihood, be that, with God's blessing on the work, an 
incalculable amount of physical suffering will be averted, and a 
large accession of good in all senses of the word, obtained. 
Each successive generation will occupy a position, as regards 
health, beyond that of its predecessor, and will leave to its child- 
ren a still greater immunity from the bodily ills that afflict human- 
ity. 

The health of communities may be improved, without their hav- 
ing any intelligent apprehension of the reasonableness of the 
means employed ; cities and towns may be drained and ventilated, 
and both rich and poor participate in the advantage without one 
of the inhabitants understanding how the benefits were brought 
about. And on the other hand, influences adverse to health, may 
rise unsuspected from the soil, or exist in the water drawn from 
the bowels of the earth, and scatter disease and death broadcast 
through the community. While in the rural districts visiting and 
sojourning in many charming looking villages the general and de- 
plorable neglect of sanitary drainage was brought prominently to 
our attention. No country is blest with a larger number of med- 
ical philosophers than England and in the great cities the sanitary 
authorities are ever on the alert. Yet in many of the towns and 
villages which we have visited there is no sewer system whatever 
and in others it is entirely inadequate.* The death rate is conse- 
quently much higher than it would be but for the unnatural con- 
dition of living and the tone of health in those who survive lower- 
ed to such a point that, if they do not become actual charges on 



132 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

the public, they transmit an inheritance of physical weakness to 
their posterity. 

Absolute health cannot be hoped for by any child of Adam. — 
We suffer for the sins of our forefathers and inherit disease and 
the tendencies to disease which they incurred. Causes of ill health 
have operated on the bodily constitution from birth. It is not in 
the power of more than a few, to select the circumstances under 
which they will live and to avail themselves of all the suggestions 
which the enlightened physician is now prepared to offer. The 
mass of mankind will remain subject to poverty. Unhealthy influ- 
ences surround us unsuspected. The arts and employments of 
life are often such as can only be rendered comparatively uninju- 
rious. Toil of mind and body must be persisted in, although 
known to be excessive. Sorrow, care and anxiety must be endur- 
ed by thousands, who are ignorant of the only remedy against 
them — a living union to God, through Christ— and necessity will 
continue to oppose obstacles, often insurmountable, to what the in- 
structed judgment knc^ws to be expedient. 

There are few readers who have not been exposed to one or the 
other of these causes of ill-health, and who will not therefore read- 
ily concur, for the most part, in the justness of these'observations. 
Nor is there any reason why they should not be made. They do 
not weaken the force of- the advice, to strive to become as strong 
and well as possible. The whole of human life, very nearly, is a 
battle between good and evil ; and in the matter of health, most of 
us have to make the best of what we would rather had been other 
than it is. Many will wish they had known in their youth what 
any one may know now, who once sees it to be his duty to try and 
be well. And many will wish that their parents had been taught 
that their children had bodies as well as minds, which also needed 
to be educated. But it is the rule of this life, however numerous 
the expectations may seem, that whatever is made the object of in- 
telligent pursuit, is more or less completely attained. And the 
manly, rational determination to be well that we may be useful, 
will certainly have its reward. Space will not permit us to enter 
into a description of the various organs of the human body, and 
the functions to which they are subservient. Nor can we delay to 
consider what individual effort is required within the walls of peo- 
ple's houses and in the regulation of their habits in order to secure 
and retain good health. Common sense and the experience of 
mankind teach that personal cleanliness, that the function of the 
skin, with its millions of pores, may not be impeded ; that regular 
exercise, proper nutrition, pure air and water are the conditions on 
which depend good health. There are also mental and moral 
causes of disease and ill health worthy of consideration, but it does 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 133 



not belong to our plan to refer more particularly to them at this 
time. It is enough for us to allude thus generally to these essen- 
tial matters. We shall confine ourselves herein to a few remarks 
on the subject of sanitary drainage, and the deplorable results 
which follow its neglect. 

The question has interested the writer for many years, and its 
pressing importance was revived in his mind, as above mentioned, 
by the almost total neglect of these matters in the lovely villages 
and towns scattered over England which he visited at the period 
when these notes were being collected. 

It is only within a comparatively recent period that the vital im- 
portance of the subject has engaged the public attention, though 
the evils it is intended to mitigate, or altogether avert, are as old as 
civilization. The ancients fully understood the matter and the 
great men among the Jews. Greeks and Romans considered per- 
sonal cleanliness and the surroundings of a man's dwelling, wheth- 
er this was a tent, a hut or a palace, as of paramount importance. 
In fact in most Eastern countries, cleanliness makes a part of their 
religion. The Jewish and Mahometan religions enjoin various 
bathino-s, washings and purifications. No doubt the washings may 
appear* whimsical to some, yet few things would tend more to pre- 
vent diseases than a proper attention to many of them. Were . 
every person, for example, after visiting the sick, handling a dead 
body, or touching anything that might convey infection, to wash 
before he went into company, or sat down to meat, he would run 
less hazard either of catching the infection himself, or of commu- 
nicating it to others. By negligence in this matter infectious di- 
seases are spread in all places where large crowds are brought 
too-ether in camps, hospitals, cities and towns. The Jews during 
their encampment in the wilderness, received particular instruc- 
tions with respect to cleanliness. "Thou shalt have a p'ace also 
without the camp, whither thou shalt go forth abroad. And thou 
sh 'It have a paddle upon thy weapon ; and it shall be, when thou 
wilt ease thyself abroad, thou shalt dig therewith, and shalt turn 
back, and cover that which cometh from thee."— Deuteronomy th\ 

Pliny says the common sewers for the conveyance of filth and 
nastiness from the city of Rome were the greatest of all the public 
works- and bestows higher encomiums upon Tarquinius, Agnppa 
and others who made and improved them, than on those who 
achieved the greatest conquests. And the Emperor Trajan gave 
particular directions to his proconsul Pliny concerning the 
making of a common sewer for the health and convenience of a 
conquered city. It is, indeed, from the ancients we derive maxims 
to which nothing can be added. From an ancient Greek physi- 

(34) 



1^4 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

cian we get the cardinal hygienic formula, "pure air, pure water 
and pure soil." It was a marvel to ancient travelers on what a 
stupendous scale the works of Egypt were constructed to obtain 
a supply of sweet water from the Nile, and those of Babylon to 
£et it from the Tigris and Euphrates. The ruins of the ancient 
aqueducts for supplying Rome with water from the Sabine and 
Albanian hills form one of the most striking features, (exciting the 
astonishment of all intelligent travelers,) in the landscapes of the 
Campagna, at the present day. The stone pavements also on 
which the ancient sewers were bottomed are still visible. No 
wanderer among the ghastly exhumations of Pompeii can have 
failed to observe the careful provision made for securing a supply 
of water, and must have viewed with astonishment and delight the 
many baths, some of them unburied in almost perfect condition, 
as they existed 2,oco years ago. Nor can the traces of the net 
work of drains which kept the city pure have escaped his atten- 
tion. 

During the dark ages when the forests of the North poured 
forth their hordes, wave after wave, in all the strength and vigor 
of primitive nature, unlettered and barbarous, the knowledge of 
sanitary needs perished from men's minds, and the medieval cities 
were cursed from time to time with plague and pestilence. During 
this long period of about ten centuries — from A. D. 476 to 1492 — 
the death rate was so high from the neglect of the laws of health, 
that population increased at the rate of something less than one 
per cent, in ten years.* 

A national passion for pure air and general cleanliness is sup- 
posed to have been revived in Europe by the Moors, who invaded 
Spain during the Middle Ages and remained thereuntil about the 
period of the discovery of America. 

All thoughtful men, whose attention has been directed to the 
subject of the public health in cities and towns agree as to the ab- 
solute necessity of a thorough system of underground drains. — 
Consequently, in populous communities like those of London, 
Paris, New York and other great cities enormous sums have been 
expended to attain this object. Engineers and architects tell us, 
if common sense does not, that the waste of such communities 
cannot be accommodated, or be rendered innocent by any number 
of cess pools, however numerous or well constructed ; that a sys- 
tem of cess pools or open vaults tend to saturate the soil with fetid 
matter. Around each cess pool, for a considerable distance, the 
soil is poisoned. "External to this limit," says a high authority 

* For an intensely interesting account of the Epidemics of the Middle ' 
'he reader is referred to Dr. }.. F. C Hecker's great wo.d< 






RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. I 35 

on these matters, "the filth is destroyed bv the action of the oxy- 
gen of the air, which is a threat purifier. Within the limits named 
the animal matter preponderates either constantly, or at some pe- 
riod of the year. They may remain simply disagreeable without 
being dangerous, and may again, in a way whose details have as 
yet escaped investigation, become the seed bed or the nursery of 
the infection that breaks out in fevers and dysentery. The dag- 
ger increases as the quantity of filth and the number of its recep- 
tacles increase. To cover them up does not necessarily remove 
the evil. The putrid matter soaks into the soil and moves upward 
and downward in it with the motion o( the soil water." 

It is a truism that the health of man requires that he should 
have pure air, pure water and clean soil. Common sense and 
practical experience alike condemn the pollution of the air we 
breathe or the water we drink. And it has been well said that 
"we live or we die, live well or miserably, live our full term or 
perish prematurely, accordingly as we shall wisely or otherwise 
determine." In other words, our lives are short or long just in 
proportion to the care we pay to the laws of health. It is a mat- 
ter which addresses itself to the builder of an isolated house who, 
if wise, will make provision against allowing the soil to become 
polluted by the accumulation of waste which follows occupation. 
And by placing his kitchen, stables, pig sties and other outbuild- 
ings at such a distance as to render any necessary visitation of the 
air from them innocuous. 

If these country houses on healthy sites and in the vicinity of 
running streams of pure water, are liable to become centres of 
disease, by neglect of cleanliness, how greatly is the danger in- 
creased as population grows and houses multiply and are brought 
together in cities and towns. The danger is intensified by the 
further fact that in a town the filth in one house is the cause of di- 
sease and death in others. It is not a private, but a public ques- 
tion, a matter affecting all, in what state each individual inhabitant 
of a city or town keeps his house or grounds. No one should be 
allowed, or is, in a well regulated town, to keep upon his premises 
any festering organic matter, cess pools, pig sties, decaying vege- 
tables, or any other refuse that endangers the lives of his neigh- 
bors. The health of each is important to all and it is the duty of 
all to join in securing it. If they cannot be induced to do so by an 
appeal to their good sense, they should be forced to it by munici- 
pal regulations. 

When the municipal authorities are so blind or indifferent as to 
disregard these laws, sooner or later they are spoken to in terrible 
language — the language of disease and death. It has been wisely 
Iv said "that pestilence is the angel w'th which it would seem, it 



136 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

has pleased the Almighty to awaken the human race to the dut; 
of self preservation ; plagues are not committing havoc perpetu- 
ally, but turning men to destruction and then suddenly ceasing 
that they may consider. As the lost father speaks to the family 
and the slight epidemic to the city, so the pestilence speaks to th< 
nation." 

In cities and towns it is obviously impossible for works of gen- 
eral drainage to be carried out by any than public authority. In 
some European and South American cities, notably in Cadiz and 
in Rio de Janerio, joint stock companies have been formed under 
municipal authority for general drainage. They are usually de- 
nominated "Public Improvement Companies," and all houses are 
required by law to communicate with the extensive ramifications 
of sewers thus opened, and to pay to the companies a certain an- 
nual rent. These companies keep the city clean and healthy, and 
usually declare a semi-annual dividend at the rate of from ten to 
twelve per cent. When such works are executed by the munici- 
palities under direction of boards of health, the boards are invest- 
ed with plenary powers to the end that the works may fulfil every 
proper condition. The boards require all houses within the cor- 
porate limits to connect with the sewers ; they refuse to aliow the 
erection of dwellings on unhealthy sites, they provide ventilation 
for the main sewers, constructed in a way to prevent the poison- 
ous gasses from affecting the inhabitants, thus lessening the chan- 
ces of the introduction of gasses from the public sewers into the 
private houses, and they require all private cess pools or other 
repositories. of filth to be closed. 

All authorities on the subject agree that the individual house- 
keeper has these problems to solve: "1. To protect his house 
against excessive damp in its walls, in its cellars and where prac- 
ticable in the surrounding atmosphere. 2. To provide for the 
perfect and instant removal ol all matter of fluid or semi-fluid 
organic waste. 3. To provide a sufficient supply of pure water 
for domestic use. 4. To guard against the evils arising from the 
decomposition of organic matter under the house. 5. To remove 
all sources of offense and danger which may affect the atmosphere 
about the house. 6. To prevent the insidious entrance into the 
house, through communications with the sewers, cess pools, &c, 
of poisonous gasses resulting from the decomposition of the re- 
fuse q{ his own household with which a common sewer may bring 
him into communication. 

And in the sewerage of towns the main drain should conform 
to the following conditions : It should be perfectly tight from one 
end to the other, have a continuous fall from the head to |the 
outlet, be perfectly ventilated, so that the injurious gasses that 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 137 

necessarily arise from the decomposition of matters carried along 
in the water or which are left clinging to the sewer walls, shall be 
diluted with fresh air, and shall have such means of escape as will 
prevent them from forcing their way into the dwellings through the 
traps of the house drains. It should also be constructed so as to 
admit of its being inspected and of its being flushed with pure 
water. This ought to be done several times during the week in 
summer. Its size and form should be so adjusted to its work, or 
to its flushing appliances that the usual dry weather flow may be 
made to keep it free from silt and organic deposits. A sewer de- 
ficient in any one of these particulars is unsafe. 

Properly constituted drains, we may add, not only bear off the 
filth cf towns, the source of atmospheric impurity, and thereby 
render unfit for occupation many of those damp, dark, unventila- 
ted basements which are so prolific in tubercular diseases, but les- 
sen, if they do not altogether prevent, other diseases which are 
brought on by a cold, saturated air and the want of light and ven- 
tilation. The importance of light to health is worthy of particular 
mention in this connection. Whether your house be large or 
small, give it light. There is no home so likely to be unhealthy as 
a dark and gloomy house or room. Light is necessary in order 
that the animal spirits may be kept refreshed and invigorated. No 
one is happy who in working hours is in a gloomy house or room. 
The gloom of the prison has been considered a part of the punish- 
ment^ of the prisoner, and it is so. The mind is saddened in a 
house that is not flushed with light, and when the mind is saddened 
the whole physical power soon suffers. The heart beats languidly, 
the blood flows slowlv, the breathing is imperfect, the oxydation 
of the blood is reduced and the conditions are laid for the develop- 
ment of many wearisome and unnecessary constitutional failures 
and sufferings. Without light none of the functions of nutrition 
or growth will prosper ; it is positively necessary to digestion — 
The evolution of the tadpole into the frog is prevented if the ani- 
mal is kept in the dark. The narrow street and confined dwelling 
are prejudicial to health, not simplv because the air is pent up, but 
because the blessing of light is scantily enjoyed. Gas light when 
introduced into these dismal cellars which many living beings are 
still permitted to inhabit in large cities, is the bearer and sustained 
of life • it acts too, as a powerful disinfectant, counteracting putn- 
faction' and destroying the spores of disease, rendering harmless 
the poisonous vapors in the air. The fact was frequently mention- 
ed to the writer while in England that small-pox seldom, if ever, 
entered the houses of those who used gas. We have also been 
told that children suffering with the whooping cough are quickly 
cured by frequenting houses where gas is used or manufactured. 

(35) 



138 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 



While unable from actual observation to confirm these statements 
we have no doubt of their reliability and strongly urge in the cause 
of health the general use of gas light. By substituting it for oil 
we are delivered from the danger of explosions, of being burnt to 
a cinder, and banish from our houses the offensive odor of burning 
wicks, the grease and filth of the cheap and foully smelling lamp, 
and any aerial poison they may scatter through the apartments. 

The principles on which houses and towns should be drained 
having been thus briefly explained, we must here point out the 
practical results, in the way of improved health, which have fol- 
lowed the introduction of a sewer system in a number of English 
towns. 

Dr. Latham gives the following table, showing the effect on 
health of sanitary works in different towns in England : 



Banbury,. . . 

Cardiff, 

Croyden,. . . 

Davis, 

'Ely 

Leicester, . . 
Macelesfield 
Merthyr, . . . 
Newport, . . 

Rugby 

Salisbury. . . 
'Warwick . . 



Population 
in 1861. 


Average deaths 




Reduction of 


in 1,000 
before drained. 


After drainage. 


typhoid fever, 
rate per cent. 


10,288 


23.4 


20.5 


48 


3 2 954 


33-3 


22.6 


4<> 


30.229 


237 


18.6 


63 


23,108 


22 1 


20.9 


36 


7,847 


23-9 


20.5 


56 


18,056 


26.4 


25.2 


48 


27,475 


29.8 


23-7 


48 


52,778 


33-2 


26.2 


50 


24752 


31.^ 


2L& 


36 


7.818 


191 


18.9 


10 


9,030 


27.5 


21.9 


75 


10.570 


22 7 


21 O 


52 



It must be remembered too, that this great saving of life has 
been the result of works that are far from perfect. The average 
reduction of typhoid rate was 47! per cent., nearly one half. It is 
believed that perfect drainage and ventilation, with a supply of 
pure water and plenty of light, would prevent the occurrence of a 
single case. Comment upon such facts is unnecessary. They tell 
their own tale. It has been truly said that a man is born to health 
and longevity ; disease is abnormal, and death, except from old 
age, is accidental, and both are preventable by human agencies. — 
Those, therefore, who recognize the close relations between dis- 
ease and its preventable causes, should band together in every 
town and city, and unite with the public authorities in executing 
plans for promoting and securing the public health. The other 
class of ignorant, indifferent and slothful persons cannot be aroused 
until the outbreak of some malignant disease, when it is too late to 
•commence sprinkling lime and other disinfectants in street gutters, 



R A M B L I N ( J R E M I N ISC E N < : E S . 



'39 



cleaning out cess pools, lighting up cellars, digging drains and 
searching after a supply of pure water. 

It cannot be denied that this important question is one greatly 
ignored in healthy communities and in towns which hiving long 
existed as villages, cannot realize its deep importance when they 
have grown into populous cities. There are few persons, indeed, 
whose attention has not been specially drawn to the subject, who 
realize the terrible significance of an increased death rate. It 
question which involves not only the health of individuals and 
communities, but the longevity o( generations. In fact the gn 
est and most distressing obstacles to the advancement of the human 
race is the impairment of individual lives by defective health. If 
a whole generation of men and women could live through the 
present ordinary forty or fifty years of life, free from periods of 
illness so serious as to interrupt the full exercise of their bodily 
and mental powers, it is plain that the unimpeded physical labor 
and mental activity of such a generation would carry forward the 
economies and intellectual progress of the country in which they 
lived with a success and velocity not to be calculated. No sources 
of suffering or sorrow are more common in the world as it now 
exists than the spectacle of noble natures and noble enterprises 
reduced to failure and premature death In millions of cases the 
community invests, in no figurative sense, an extensive capital in 
the rearing and teaching of groups and classes of investigators, 
inventors and thinkers, and finds itself suddenly deprived by 
some malignant fever or wave of sickness of all return for the 
sacrifices it has made: and so the present generation is 
made poorer and the heritage of coming generations is 
made less. As all accumulation and progress is the result of 
labor, it follows that both must be obtained in the highest degree 
where the laborers enjoy the most vigorous health throughout 
the largest number of years. The poverty and backwardness of 
the Middle ages of Europe were mainly caused by the prevalence 
of disease and by a death rate so high as to limit the increase of 
population, as we have said, in some countries to less than ten per 
cent. 

For many years in England, France, and in the Eastern and 
Northern States, the governments and peoples have been more or 
less systematically at work devising plans and executing improve- 
ments with a view to lessening the prevalence of disease and pro- 
longing human life ; and for the last few years the force of public 
opinion has led the authorities of the larger cities, North and South, 
East and West, to regard sanitary control as an essential part of 
local administration. Such fearful scourges as the yellow fever 
last year in Memphis, Grenada and other Southern cities, have 



140 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

effectually aroused those afflicted communities to the necessity of 
action, and already extensive works have been carried out in some 
of them, notably in Memphis. There is reason to hope and believe 
that this enlightened policy will effectually protect them against 
future visitations of pestilence. In all of our larger cities a sani- 
tary staff has been appointed, hospitals built for small pox and 
fever cases, and for the control and limitation of epidemic diseases. 
Among the powers conferred upon these sanitary boards or staffs, 
is the important one of demolishing unwholesome dwellings, and 
prohibiting the erection of houses upon unhealthy sites. These 
old buildings were the permanent seats of disease and crime. — 
Where and whenever extensive drains have been constructed and 
a supply of pure water has been obtained for domestic use and 
with which to flush the sewers, the most gratifying diminution of 
the death rates has indicated the favorable effects of these sanitary 
measures. This has not only been the case in England, as we have 
seen from Dr. Latham's tables, but in every European country and 
in our own. In fact the death rate has declined in almost exact 
proportion to the energy and extent of the sanitary measures. 

It is to be hoped that these cheering facts may have their influ- 
ence upon the authorities of our prosperous 'arid growing '"city of 
the hills," and that something may be done by them in this direc- 
tion before we are reminded of the necessity of such works by a 
visitation of disease and the decimation of our population by 
death. When undertaken, let us hopethat the work may be upon 
a comprehensive plan for the accommodation of every part of the 
city and large enough to meet the wants of a much greater popu- 
lation than Staunton can now number. 'I hat our population is 
destined to be very much increased by accessions from abroad and 
within a comparative brief period, there is every reason to believe. 
W 7 ith the introduction of pure water into towns, the abolition of 
under-ground and cellar dwellings, still so common in the crowded 
parts of London, Paris and New York and all large cities; the 
construction of drams and sewers, ventilated by shafts fixed at 
their highest points and carried above the eaves of the houses, the 
rapid conveyance of all excretal matters long distances from the 
towns and the utilization of all refuse, animal or vegetable manure, 
typhus and typhoid fever, once so common in those centres of 
population has become of comparatively rare occurrence ; and all 
other infectious diseases have been largely reduced in amount 
while the general health has been improved. 

That in any large city among its working classes typhus and 
typhoid fever should be nearly extinguished implies a diminution 
of human pain and misery which cannot be estimated. How ter- 
rible is the condition of the widows and orphans deprived of the 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 141 

earnings of the husband and father by premature death" at; en- 
trance or in the midst of the productive period of life, for the most 
prevalent and fatal forms of sickness among the poorer classes are 
deadly fevers. If typhus can be reduced to a very low point, a 
latent resource of civilization will be developed in a most obvious 
and beneficent manner, and a potent mode of enlarging the means 
of enjoyment and the possibilities of raising the race to a higher 
level of physical and moral health. 

The philosopher's ideal of human health and the duration of 
human life may not be, with our present means and knowledge, 
Utopian, but it is a noble ideal to keep before us. Life extends 
naturally to five times the number of years required in the 
various orders of animals to arrive at maturity. The elephant 
is young at thirty, and lives to 150; the horse matures at five, and 
lives to 25 years ; the lion and ox mature at four, and live to 20; 
the cat matures in eighteen months, and its full life is 7? years. 
Man arrives at maturity at about twenty, and ought therefore to 
live to one hundred. The body ceases to grow at the end of 
twenty years, but it does not cease to increase till forty, at which' 
age it reaches its most complete physical condition. During the 
next thirty years, or to the age of 70, called the period of invig- 
oration, all the functions become or ought to become more cer- 
tain, al! of its organization more perfect. At seventy old age 
should begin and last for about fifteen years: from eighty -five to 
one hundred there should be ripe old age, not accompanied by 
disease or pain, but marked by a gradual subsidence of the vital 
functions. 

The possibility of arriving at this great prolongation of the 
active, investigating, inventive and thinking years of human life is 
the most limitless of all the latent resources of civilization. With 
the present average longevity in the United States of thirty to 
forty years the course of public policy, peace or war, wisdom or 
folly, is determined by men of imperfect and misleading experi- 
ence and reflection which are attained at about thirty. In a com- 
munity living on the average twice as long as at the present, the 
control of affairs would be in the hands of men fortified by the 
large wisdom of 50 or 90 years ; and every question, public or 
private, would be judged by men undisturbed in the exercise of 
their faculties by defective health or distressing pain. Consider 
even now what a bound forward we should accomplish if for a 
year there were not a single ailment in the land. Not only would 
the absence of pain and disease prolong and render more pro 
ductive in every material and mental sense the application of 
human labor and enterprise ; but among its earliest effects would 
be the development of the degrees of symmetry and beauty in the 



(36) 



142 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

human frame. Deformity is no part of human nature and to any- 
one who observes it is plain that nature never ceases in its efforts 
to diminish or cure it ; and what is more, nature is ever on the 
alert to translate into perfection of faculty and form any improved 
circumstance of physical condition in food, clothing, shelter, or the 
abolition of degrading labor which may chance to be arrived at by 
the community ; and so it comes about that the eye of reflective 
science, aided by the growing certainties of knowledge, can even 
now see that the tendencies toward a higher physical life within 
the reach of human power are beyond a doubt. 

Human life is so transitory, under all circumstances, that no 
effort to prolong it should be lost. Pliny, the younger, thus 
speaks on this subject, and we cannot close this chapter bettc r than 
by quoting the words of that intelligent and highly educated man. 
"Is there anything in nature," says he, "so short and lim- 
ited as human life, even at its longest ? Does it not seem 
to you but yesterday that Nero was alive? and yet not 
one of those who were consuls in his reign now remains ! 
Though why should I wonder at this? Lucius Piso used 
to say, he did not see one person in the Senate whose 
opinion he had consulted when he was consul ; in so short a space 
is the very term of life of such a multitude of beings comprised! 
so that to me those Royal tears seem not only worthy of pardon 
but of praise. For it is said that Xerxes, on surveying his im- 
mense army, wept at the reflection that so many thousand lives 
would in such a short space of time be extinct. The more ardent 
therefore should be our zeal to lengthen out this frail and transient 
portion of existence, if not by our deeds yet certainly by our lit- 
erary accomplishments ; and since long life is denied us, let us 
transmit to posterity some memorial that we have at least lived." 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 143 



CHAPTER XIII. 



THE ROYAL MINT — A DISTINGUISHED MAN AND A CLUB CUB — 
SIR JOHN SHELLEY — THE ILLUSIONS OF HISTORY. 

Few strangers visit London without making an effort to see the 
Mint. One of the stock sights, it is pleasantly associated with 
new sovereigns and the jingling music of gold — "bright, yellow, 
hard and cold." Nor is the Royal mint without great memories, 
for the celebrated Sir Isaac Newton was once master of it. Anti- 
quarians claim still greater associations for the spot, asserting that 
Ceesar coined money at this identical locality during the Roman 
occupation. 

The American is not long in England, or, indeed, in any part 
of Europe, without learning that history is one thing and tradi- 
tion another and a very different thing. What is commonly 
called history is worth knowing, though if we are to confide in 
Neibuhr, Miller and other modern philosophical investigators. 
there is more of fiction than of fact even in history. This is es- 
pecially and very naturally the case as to ancient history which 
has found, as to the Romans, for example, such a learned sponsor 
for its authority as Rollin. As for the stories or traditions re- 
lated by guides to gaping tourists, to be retold on the traveler's 
return home, and many of which find their way into the average 
guide book, they are the merest stuff and rubbish, pure inven- 
tions, baseless as the fabric of a vision. Stories no more to be be- 
lieved than are those "interesting" relics to be taken as genuine 
which are manufactured wholesa'e at Birmingham, to be retailed 
by vendors of curiosities as relics from the various'battle-fields of 
Europe; spots so industriously visited by pilgrim cockneys and 
such sort of peripatetics. These wanderers who annually go 
forth in search of the picturesque, come back heavily laden — not 
always, however, with new ideas. One has Josephine's watch ; 
another Peter the Great's punch bowl, another the first cannon 
ball fired at the siege of Metz, and a fourth the 'sword carried by 
the Bertrand du Guelin in the French wars against the English. 
But to be serious, two classes of people generally go to Europe 
for the summer, instead of the watering places at home — pleasure 
seekers and merchants engaged in the foreign trade. The latter 
generally take their families, or two or three of them at least. 



144 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

This increasing international intercourse produces only good re- 
sults on both sides of the Atlantic. These gigantic steamers, fly- 
ing to and fro between Europe and America, like shuttles in a 
U>- loom, are weaving the nations closer and closer together. Trade 
is benefitted, opinions are modified, manners improved and minds 
are expanded. Traveling is, indeed, the very best means of edu- 
cation ; and yet something beside travel is essential to the mere 
pleasure seeker. 

"A man may have studied and traveled abroad, 
May sing like Apollo and paint like a Claud, 
May speak all the languages south of the pole, 
And have every gift in the world but a soul." 



It is to be feared that the majority of those who now trave 
abroad belong to the class described by Lord Bacon: "He tha 
traveleth into a country before he has some entrance into the lan- 
guage, goeth to school and not to travel, and he knows not what 
things are worthy to be seen, what acquaintances they are to seek, 
what exercise or discipline the place yieldeth." In response to 
what kind of society the traveler should seek his lordship con- 
tinues ; "As for the acquaintance which is to be sought in travel, 
that which is most of all profitable, is acquaintance with the secre- 
tary and employed men of ambassadors, for so in traveling in one 
country he shall seek the experience of many. Let him also see 
and visit eminent persons in all kinds, which are of great name 
abroad, that he may be able to tell how the life agreeth -with the 
same." How few are governed by this safe counsel ! How many 
return, bringing only spurious relics and the fabulous lore of gos- 
sipping guides. 

But starting out to strip history and tradition, in a single sen- 
tence, of some of their illusions, we are digressing into other 
matters. Let us return by assuring the reader that we want faith 
in all stories connecting the Roman Dictator with money making 
on the spot now occupied by the Royal Mint. "Money making" 
was something to which the great Julius never descended, though 
he would have excelled in it, no doubt, had he chosen. He pos- 
sessed, as all the world knows, that kind of universality of genius 
and practical sense, which his modern imitator epitomizes in these 
words, "There is nothing in war," said Napoleon, "which I can- 
not do by my own hands. If there is nobody to make gunpowder 
I can manufacture it. The gun carriages I know how to construct. 
If it is necessary to make cannon at the forge I can make them. 
The details of working them in battle, if necessary to teach, 1 shall 
teach them. In administration it is I alone who arrange the 



! 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. I45 

finances." Without doubt Csesar would have done all these as 
well if not belter than Napoleon, but as we shall probably have 
occasion to refer to him again — to his management of his finances 
and his campaigns — before bidding adieu to the reader, we shall 
now pass on and occupy ourselves for the present with things be- 
longing to the present. 

Supplied with a permit to visit the mint, obtained from the mas- 
ter by our friend, Mr. William Boyle, of Somersetshire, we ap- 
peared one fine morning before the gates. Here we were politely 
received andushured in by a liveried servant. 

While in the ante room, we saw from a card on the wall the 
various parts to be visited. We shall be happy if our reader de- 
rives a tithe of the pleasure this visit afforded us from the reces- 
sarily short account we shall give of it. 

Our guide, a man of much intelligence, of much suavity and 
patience, conducted us first to the smelting house, where we saw 
six burning furnaces and in each a pot full of molten gold. 

He inforrnedjus that the gold was received from the Bank of 
England in set's of 100 ignots in the form of bricks. The ingots 
weighing 14 carrots each are brought to standard gold by an alloy 
of copper or silver. While our guide was making these explana^ 
tions, the preparations were going on to decant the fluid. 

The inside of the moulds were rubbed with oil that the metal 
might run more freely. A workman then brings a pot full of the 
melted metal. As it is too heavy to be -easily held or steadily 
poured, it is placed in a ring and supported by a crane. The ves- 
sel is steadied in the hands of the workmen by means of a rope 
attached to the lever and which is held by another person. He is 
thus able to empty the vessel into the moulds with ease and stead- 
iness. 

It was a most interesting sight and we never wearied of looking 
at the light orange hue of the stream of gold. As the metal ran 
into the moulds it was .sometimes accompanied by small pieces of 
coke, but these from their less specific gravity floated to the sur- 
face and were easily separated. In a few moments the metal in 
the moulds appeared of a greenish white color, but this was mere- 
ly a superficial crust, not thicker than a sheet of paper. The 
moulds were now disjointed, being formed of iron bars, and out 
came the blocks of gold which were immediately plunged into 
cold water. 

While in this room a large number of unstamped sovereigns or 
blanks as they are called, were thrown into the pots, and then pass- 
ed into the moulds. These imperfect coins, the cuttings, and all 
loose gold is thus disposed of, and the process of smelting entails 
a loss of only one and a half grains on the pound troy. 



(37) 



I46 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

From this room we passed to the next, that was designated on 
the card we had seen, as the rolling room. Here we were literally 
surrounded by bars and sheets of the precious metal. The bars 
brought to this room to be rolled are about three-quarters of a 
yard long. They are presented to the rollers, by which they are 
laminated and reduced to the determined thickness, which is seven 
grains too heavy. The sheets into which the bars are reduced are 
of three kinds and of different thicknesses and are termed fillets, 
ribbons, or lengths, and to bring them to their proper conditions 
there are in this room six gradations of rollers. It not unfrequent- 
ly happens that a difficulty occurs in the process of rolling, and 
that the gold when about three-fourths rolled becomes hard and 
brittle, and entirely unfit for stamping. When this occurs it is an- 
nealed in this manner: The lengths are placed in copper cases of 
cylindrical form, and are again subjected to the furnace. When 
taken out and dipped in water they become soft as lead. 

While in this room we were shown the circular shears, or hori- 
zontal circles of iron, which are kept constantly revolving by ma- 
chinery. These shears which 'never tire" cut inch thick metal 
without a moment's pause or cessation. They are considered so 
dangerous that they are fenced in and secured by a guard. 

In order to ascertain whether the fillets, sheets or lengths of gold 
are of the same thickness as the outside rim, several holes in a 
zigzag form are punched in them before the stamping process com- 
mences. Every evening before the men are allowed to leave the 
mint the gold that is weighed out to them in the morning is weigh- 
ed back in the evening. During the day no workman is allowed 
to leave the mint, consequently there is a cooking room within the 
walls, where all are supplied with food. The cooking is all done by 
gas so as to prevent the necessity for bringing in coal, and to dimin- 
ish the opportunities for dishonesty. Instances of theft are rare, 
but some instances are on record, of which the following are two : 

An old soldier, who was once in the employment of the mint, 
watched a moneyer, (these were persons who formerly contracted 
with the government to coin gold and silver — a system now entire- 
ly abolished,) as he was carrying various bags of gold, struck him 
down and locked him in. The rogue then seized four of the bags 
and ran off and got upon board an American ship. He was soon 
tracked by those blood hounds of Themis, the Bow Street officers, 
and brought back, tried and hanged. The other case was that of 
a workman who was tempted by the gold passing through his 
hands to retain 60 sovereigns, with which he disappeared. Though 
the most vigilant search was instituted he was never afterwards 
heard of. It is surmised that the receivers of the stolen property 
murdered the man and disposed of his body. These robberies 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. I47 

awakened the vigilance of the authorities, rules were established to 
prevent them, and they have consequently not been repeated. — 
To enforce the rules of the mint a company of regular troops are 
kept on guard at the establishment day and night. 

Proceeding, we next arrived at the adjusting room, where all 
the fillets, sheets, &c, are carried for examination and adjustment. 
By adjustment is meant seeing that every part of the sheets is of 
exact size and weight of every other part. When the sheets are 
taken to this room they are seven grains heavier than necessary. 
Each length of gold is inserted about two inches into a flatting 
machine. The part so inserted is "pinched" half as thick as the 
remainder of the bar. It is then taken to a machine, called a draw 
bench, where the pinched part is inserted between the steel cylin- 
ders. The sheet being drawn through, is cut into four lengths, and 
passed to the "tryers" who take each length, and with a punch, 
the size of a sovereign, cuts out a block, and it is invariably the 
standard weight. In this room there are twelve cutters, or presses 
with an extreme pressure of one hundred tons. The action of 
these cutters is vertical, and at each descent it cuts a sovereign out 
of the golden sheet. The piece falls into a box below. While we 
were watching the process, our friend, the parson, counted nearly 
a hundred sovereigns which had dropped into the box. When full 
this box is emptied into trays, of which there were many in the 
room, each containing five thousand sovereigns or about $25,000. 
The remnants of gold left from this process are called "scissel" from 
the latin word scissum, to cut, ^ind are re-melted. The sovereigns 
are taken from this room into what is called the sizing room, where 
each piece is weighed to ascertain whether it is standard weight, 
then reweighed by another set of men called cheatmen. They are 
then passed, if all right, to the ringers, who sound them on iron 
anvils and reject those which do not ring. The others are passed 
into the strongholds, which are fastened with formidable doors, 
with double locks, requiring two keys to open them, and these 
keys are kept by two different persons. 

From these strongholds the blank sovereigns, which are very 
hard and brittle, are taken to the annealing room to be softened 
and tempered. These blanks, in iron boxes, are put into the furn- 
ace. They are then boiled in diluted sulphuric acid in order to 
remove every particle of impurity. They are then put into an 
oven to dry and are afterwards shaken in beechwood sawdust, that 
they may be clean and warm to receive the impression. Great 
care and delicacy are required in these processes, tor the blanks 
if heated even a very few degrees more than enough, would run 
into a mass, and if not sufficiently heated, condensation would take 
place and the impression would be spoiled. 



148 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

The blanks are now transferred to the press room where they are 
stamped and made coins. Our guide explained in an admirable 
manner how this was done. He first showed the lower part of the 
press, round the top of which he placed a milled collar. This col- 
lar rested on a spring. He then placed the blank upon the lower 
die, and showed how the spring causes the collar to rise. Then 
the upper die descends with great force, by mere impetus, stamps 
the impression and expands the gold till it fits and fills the collar, 
and at the same time the milling is transferred to the edge of the 
piece. The dies are made of cast steel very finely tempered and 
engraved. 

The presses stamp upon an average sixty pieces per minute, or 
3,600 per hour, or in a day of ten hours 36,000 pieces or $180,000. 
The eight presses in a room, if they were all in operation, would 
thus stamp in a day 288,000 pieces, or $1440,000. The last room 
to which we were conducted was the weighing room, where the 
blanks are weighed in the most perfect of all weighing machines — 
Colton's Automaton Balance. These blanks subjected to the 
weighing process turn out to be three kinds, the heavy, medium, 
or light. The first and last are recast, the medium only are retain- 
ed for circulation, although they are not quite standard weight. — 
Not one sovereign in a thousand is standard weight and yet by 
the balances in use the 1 -150th part of a farthing's value can be 
weighed. The most delicate scales, deflect eight times out of ten 
with the thousandth part of a grain, the smallest fraction used 
for practicable purposes. The reason blank sovereigns only a lit- 
tle above the medium are rejected a"nd remelted, when the merest 
touch of the file would bring them to the proper weight, is because 
there would be loss, waste and temptation, and besides it would be 
an imperfect mode of coining. 

Walking out from this instructive visit we ruminated as we pro- 
ceeded towards the tower, upon 

•'Gold! gold ! gold ! gold! 
Bright and yellow, hard and cold, 
Molten, graven, hammer' d and rolled; 
Heavy to get. and light to hold ! 
Hoarded, bartered, bought and sold." 

On our return from "the city" Mr. Boyle, who had previously 
asked us to dine with him, said that we should have the company 
of Sir John Shelley. We enjoyed much the prospect of meeting 
this veteran, having heard him speak two or three times in the 
House of Commons, and having heard a great deal in society of 
him, of his advanced liberal or Americanized opinions and his vig- 
orous forensic efforts and encounters in the House with the cham- 
pions of the tory party. ' 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 149 

A few minutes before the dinner hour, Sir John made his ap- 
pearance in company with a young man by the name of Henniker. 
This young gentleman had that well-known audacity of manner 
and address which belong to the "howling swell" of Picadilly or 
West end "Club Cub," a coarse bark like laugh, and spoke with a 
drawl. He interposed his exclamations with many aw-aws, as "God 
bless my soul! aw." "You don't say so, aw." "Icawn'tmake it out! 
aw, aw !" and yawning slightly, he would subside for a time into a 
placid stupidity. 

With Sir John, we need scarcely say, we were much better pleas- 
ed. His presence and manner, let us add before going further, 
impressed us more in the parlor than in the Senate. His personal 
appearance was striking and his manner what the French style 
distingue. Though at first he was what the English are apt to be, 
a little stiff, awkward and embarrassed, he soon became easy, then 
free, (the sherry had passed several times before this) and finally 
delightful company. Under what the middle class styled his "aris- 
tocratic demeanor," we discovered a kindly nature and generous 
soul ; an unpretending sturdy John Bull, uniting at once the gen- 
tleman and the man of business. 

He evinced a strong wish to talk upon the subject of America 
and asked numerous questions as to the practical workings of our 
Republican institutions, making what we considered a just and 
sensible observation that he did not consider the question of Re- 
publican government, as at all involved in the issue of the civil 
war, that the war was something totally separate and apart from 
the principles of government, and the result of a difference in the 
property and institutions of the Northern and Southern States and 
in the people themselves. Republican government was' not in his 
opinion on its trial in the United States, as the Tories wish us to 
believe, and however the war may end, said he, you will have only 
Republics, the U. S. Government restored, or Republics North and 
South. He further said that he had long advocated the assimila- 
tion of English laws to those of America, had favofed the vote by 
ballot, the extension of the suffrage to all rate payers, and triennial 
parliaments. Indeed, said he, I have been ironically called the 
people's idol and seriously denounced as the mob orator. Here- 
upon he laughed heartily. And this, too, said he, recovering from 
his merriment, though I represent in my person the Barony of 
Sudely, which has been in abeyance five centuries, and which I 
claim and shall seek to have revived, and off he went again with 
loud laughter. 

During the dinner he informed us that he was returned to Par- 
liament for the first time at the general election in 1852 as a mem- 
ber for Westminster. His object in desiring a seat in the Honse 



(38) 



I50 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

was to assist in the development of the great work of reform, so far 
as it was compatible with the state of public advancement and the 
theory of the existing; British Constitution. "I was then and I 
suppose I ought to say am now, a patriot devoted to the interest 
of my country," continued Sir John with a twinkle in his eye, 
"though Dr. Johnson once testily defined patriotism as the last 
refuge of the scoundrel." It is needless to say that this is not my 
definition. This remark and his comical manner again set the table 
in a roar. The conversation now branched off for some time into 
channels suggested by his remarks. After awhile, when we had 
subsided into a more quiet mood, Sir John said that his colleague 
in this Westminster contest was Sir de Lacy Evans, (subsequently 
so much distinguished as a Major General in the army of the Cri- 
mea,) and the Tory candidate, Viscount Maidstone, son of Sir 
Finch-Hatton, Earl of Winchilsea, and Mr. William Coningham. 

This election gave rise to immense excitement, and in the midst 
of the furor it was thought ihe seat of Sir de Lacy was in great 
jeopardy, but on the close of the polls, the General was elected by a 
majority of 400,while mine was over 700. So much for a mob orator. 

We informed him that we had twice heard him address the 
House, at which the Honorable Baronet seemed much gratified. 
We did not tell him our opinion, that while a frequent speaker he 
has no pretentions to oratory. His delivery is bold and rapid and 
without the slightest attempt at effect, he conveys to his auditors 
the most truthful expression of his political statements. 

While the friend of progress and reform, Sir John has not. nor 
could he ever become a radical of the modern type. He sympa- 
thized largely with the young England movement, but he had 
"no objection to the lord, provided he was a gentle one." The 
course of the Tory party hurried him to lengths of which other- 
wise he never would have dreamed. He might have been utilized 
by a wiser aristocracy as a wiser Church of England might have 
utilized Wesley. However they lost their chance, and Sir John 
Shelley had come to entertain principles utterly at variance with 
any form of Toryism whatever. Sir John Shelley is proverbial in 
private life for his known uniformity of conduct ; from tempera- 
ment not less than policy, he is ever consistent ; at all times con- 
ciliating ; neither harsh nor dogmatical to those differing from him 
in opinion, but ready to extend the olive branch to his opponents 
when the heat of controversy has subsided. Through his active 
career as a public man he has been characterised by his strict sense 
of honor, his uniform urbanity and kindness. His whole career 
illustrates well the remark of Saurin, "True courtesy of manners is 
one of the fruits of the love of God. It is Christian benevolence car- 
ried into detail, and operating upon all circumstances of social life." 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 15I 



CHAPTER XIV. 

THE DERBY DAY— BRITISH LOVE OF SPORT — THE POPULARITY 
OF THE TURF — THE CELEBRATED RACER ECLIPSE. 



Sir Francis Bacon, administering some wholesome advice to his 
patron and friend, George Villiers, afterwards Duke of Bucking- 
ham, the favorite and prime minister of James I, declares that in 
the courts of princes "there must be times for pastimes and dis- 
ports;" and he recommends the "riding of the great horse, the tilts, 
the barriers, tennis and hunting, which are more for the health and 
strength of those who exercise them, than in an effeminate way to 
please themselves and others." How far this sage counsel may 
have contributed to the modern prevalent taste, among all classes of 
English, for out-doors sports, it is difficult to say. That they love 
fresh air — boating, running, leaping, boxing, wrestling and the 
quoit — in a word all kinds of athletic games and open air exercises 
and manly sports, is undeniable. There never is a horse race with- 
out an Englishman being, if possible, there or thereabouts. The 
good effect of these habits, too, is easily recognized in the ruddy 
complexions and robust constitutions of both men and women in 
their breed of good horses. While the women certainly do not 
engage in steeple chasing, pigeon shooting and such like convivi- 
alty, they are great pedestrians and understand the importance to 
health, mental and physical, of exercise and wholesome sports. — 
Fond of archery, lawn tennis, croquet, some of them have been 
known in times past to act the jockey, many at the present day 
follow the hounds, and almost all attend the races. 

The Empress of Austria, Elizabeth Amelia Eugenie, daughter 
of the Duke Maximilian-Joseph, and cousin to the King of Bavaria, 
an English woman in her tastes, who is specially given up to the 
chase, has within the past month of 1880, sent from Austria to Ire- 
land, fifty hunters and a train of servants, that she might engage 
in this healthful exhilirating sport. Only four of these steeds are 
intended for her Majesty's own use, the others will be used by her 
attendants. 

Such habits not only improve the physique, but refresh and in- 
vigorate the spirits, and the stranger quickly discovers, after ming- 
ling with the British in the mother country, that the merrie isle is 
inhabited by a jolly race. He is not long in learning that the 



152 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

common estimate of John Bull by the outside world is a false and 
erroneous estimate ; that the sturdy Briton is not, as many imagine, 
of a cold and arid nature, morose, unsympathetic and deficient in 
the finer feelings of human nature. On the contrary, quite the 
reverse. Under his frigid exterior there lies a genial temper and 
kindly nature. Break through the ice and you find a living stream 
beneath. However reserved, haughty and Dlunt John Bull may 
appear to the world, he is in reality, as all discover who know him 
well, an honest, generous, good fellow, fond of society, of sport, 
of sherry. The heat of his nature may be latent, but it only needs 
the friction of society, the sight of woe, the presence of danger, 
to disengage, set it free. 

Entertaining these views, we need scarcely say that we have 
found little among them to justify the remark of Addison in the 
Spectator : "The English are naturally fanciful, and by that gloom- 
iness and melancholly of temper which is so frequent in our nation, 
we are often disposed to many wild notions, to which others are 
not liable." 

Decidedly British in our tastes we looked forward with no small 
pleasure to witnessing the great national Olympic on the Derby 
day. Roused up on the morning of the 4th of June by an unu- 
sual uproar in the streets, we quickly despatched our breakfast and 
issued forth. All London was astir for the Derby, the event with 
which the day was big. The streets were crowded with every de- 
scription of vehicles from the coster-monger's donkey cart, to the 
fancy gentleman's four-in hand. Business was at a stand still and 
the mews and slums, as well as the squares and avenues, poured 
forth a continuous stream of human beings. Lords and gentle- 
men, bankers and merchants, shop keepers and workmen, men, 
women and children, all came forth, bent upon a spree. A single 
instinct seemed to animate the entire mass. Everywhere in the 
streets, vehicles stood taking in their living freight and no end of 
boxes of "wittels" and baskets of bottles. Flags were suspended 
from the carriages and the horses were gaily decked with ribbons; 
the common people hurrying on foot to the downs, where in their 
holiday attire, though out upon a "rough roll and tumble excur- 
sion," while the "swells" who were perched upon the tops of the 
omnibusses or peered from the'cabs were smartly dight, and thick- 
ly veiled in light blue or violet falls. The fair sex mustered in im- 
mense force, in summer dress and crowded the vehicles or trudged 
on the side walks. Many of the lower orders who, doubtful of 
their powers to do the journey on foot in a single morning, even 
under the inspiration of gin toddy and rum bitters, had started the 
day before and were now camped upon the field or were setting 
forth on their journey from the road side pot-house. The roads 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. I53 

leading to the course were filled with a double line of vehicles, 
crowds of horsemen and pedestrians and at the distance of twelve 
miles from London were so blocked up that frequent halts were 
necessary. From the windows of many of the houses on the 
route flags were displayed, the union jack and the tricolor, and 
indeed the flags of all nations, conspicuous among them the stars 
and stripes, notwithstanding the "Harvey Birch" affair, the Trent 
affair and affairs generally on the American side of the Atlantic. 
Many private ensigns fluttered in the morning breeze, giving no- 
tice of Tom and Jerry shops and other public places where cor- 
dials and bitters and other things good and bad might be had for 
the money. The road was further enlivened by rustics who gath- 
ered on the side walks and stared open eyed and open mouthed 
at the cavalcade. 

Mounting a cob, we had been previously invited to make one of 
a party of four, we joined the crowd unwilling to lose so fine an 
opportunity of seeing the people and increasing our knowledge of 
their manners and customs. But for this wish to see them to the 
best advantage on a gala day, we should have made our way to 
Epsom by train. 

The first public house of consequence which lay in our route 
was the famous South London Inn called the Elephant and Castle. 
Here great crowds halted for the refreshment of 'arf and 'arf or a 
gill of "old torn" the reputation of the E. and C. wines and viands 
being unbounded. Following suite, we too stopped to wash down 
the dust with the famous "hale." D. Korbes Campbell, the friend 
and intimate of Napoleon III, (a relative of Lord Clyde) and the 
translator of the Emperor's Idees Napoleoniennes info English, 
Osborne Stock, afterwards M. P. for Carlow burroughs, and Capt. 
Manners made up our party. After partaking of a mug of the 
bitter the writer wished to be off, but Manners insisted with such 
good natured pertinacity on the party stopping for a second tank- 
ard and a smoke, that we settled down until the white ashes had 
fallen from the ends of our Havannas. The gallant Captain assur- 
ed us that the delay would be of service as the crowd must lessen 
and our journey be advanced by a little masterly inactivity. Re- 
mounting our horses after this delay we found the streets as full as 
ever. Threading our way onward as well as possible we finally 
reached the open country. Shortly afterwards, Stock, who was a 
politician always watching for a weak point in the Tory policy, 
discovered a "hole in the hedge." He had no sooner pointed this 
out to Manners than the latter leaped his hunter through the gap, 
we all followed suite and scampered onward over the sod as near 
to a gait of 2.40 as our steeds could approach. As we galloped 
on we fancied we could hear the furious voices of the indignant 



(39) 



154 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

farmer and his servants crying after us, and the sharp prongs of 
steel pitchforks, flails, scythes and other rustic weapons floated 
across our excited imaginations. Our engagements at Epsom, how- 
ever, did not admit of any delay to verify, had we desired, these 
suspicious sounds. The only effect of the discordant noises, so 
out of place on this happy day, was to urge our steeds to greater 
exertions. Soon we were beyond reach of the din and no longer 
disturbed in mind by that rustic force and those ugly looking and 
dangerous, though vulgar, implements of war. 

At eleven o'clock we reached the course where not less than 
200,000 persons were already assembled. The scene was what 
newspaper reporters style ''brilliant," and while apparently the 
utmost confusion prevailed, there was really the best of order. 
Tents and booths were pitched in every direction and tens of 
thousands of flags fluttered in the breeze - vehicles were scattered 
over the vast area of sward, and horses were tethered far and wide. 
Equipages were arriving by every road and coming into collision 
with others returning. There was consequently a dismal spec- 
tacle of smashed panels, lost spokes, broken axles and jaded 
beasts. Crowds on foot were pouring in from all the roads and 
across the newly mown fields. On the ground or heath the peo- 
ple were indulging in a variety of rustic games. Every kind of 
character was present from the highest of the "old nobility" to the 
lowest of the houseless tramp. A glance in any direction showed 
you stupid looking German bands, swarthy Italian organ grinders, 
foot sore gypsies, montebanks of every description. Near us a 
female was crying shrimps for sale, while further off, near a crowd 
of women, a man bawled at the top of his voice, "Buy a box of 
patent lozenges, good for pains in the belly." The light-fingered 
gentlemen, from the thimble-rigger to the card sharper, in the 
highest spirits, were industriously plying their avocations. From 
a dirty, ill-conditioned looking fellow on his knees busily shuffling 
three cards, you heard in persuasive notes. "Pick out the face 
card, gentleman, and you'll win a sovereign." A number of 
sleeping, but by no means silent partners, stood round about and 
lost and won their money, generally winning, in order to entice 
the unwary. There was a party playing at the game of "Knock 
'em down," very popular with aspirants for police service. There 
was another at the favorite amusement of "Aunt Sally," not far 
off. The arrows of an archery party whizzed incessantly through 
the air, and every moment you were startled by the sharp and 
rapid reports from the pistol galleries, while the course was all 
over dotted with groups engaged In the exhilirating sport of 
flinging cudgels at long slender wands, the tops of which were 
surmounted by tin or wooden tobacco boxes, velvet pin cushions 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 155 

and hollow wooden boxes framed to represent apples, pears and 
oranges. Young- men sauntered about with Ion- red pasteboard 
probocis, and viewed their friends through sixpenny spectacles. 
Woman, their unkempt hair flowing over their shoulders, strolled 
about, followed by their promising offspring, the broods often as 
large as that of John Rodgers, and the mothers often, as with 
Rodger's wife, with one at her breast. Young ladies now and 
then screamed nervously at some strange sight; in a word, a 
scene of the most indescribable bustle and uproar prevailed. Not- 
withstanding, however, the vast assemblage and its mixed char- 
acter, there was no disorder, no rowdy turbulence, no disposition 
for riot. We were. much struck with this fact. It would be hard 
to assemble in France or the United States five thousand people 
without a profusion of black eyes and bloody noses. Here a 
ready obedience was paid to the lew policemen who were present 
and every one seemed to be in the best possible humor. It. was a 
fine illustration of the Anglo Saxon love of order — a thing which 
seems to be inherent to the English character and which must not 
be supposed to result from special repression in the laws. No- 
where are they more liberal than in England, whatever erroneous 
ideas to the contrary may prevail in America. Many of us im- 
agine, in our ignorance, that o/.rs is the only "land of the free and 
home of the brave." It is a great mistake : a stupendous blunder. 
Nowhere are the rights of the people more jealously guarded than 
in England, nowhere is there a greater spirit of resistance to 
tyranny. This the history of centuries proves. So far as our 
knowledge of England and the English extends — a knowledge 
derived from a cartful perusal ol her history and many visits, ex- 
tending over a period of nearly twenty years, and long residence, 
we are satisfied that they have little to envy in the condition of 
others, even of those who assume to be the freest, happiest and 
best governed people on the globe. We cannot stop to explain 
how they are as free, why they are as happy, and in what they 
are as well governed as the best. Let those who doubt it ex- 
amine her laws, daily becoming more liberalized, watch the 
operations of her enduring institutions and visit her homes. 
1 But we must not forget that we are on the race course. The 
grand stand, perched at an immense distance in the air, was al- 
ready well filled with spectators, as were the numerous smaller 
stands by which it is flanked. Conspicuous on the central plat- 
form, among the "modish fancy," were the Japanese ambassadors, 
who looked very billious, somewhat bewildered and decidedly 
bored though it was reported they had staked heavy sum's and 
could not be indifferent to the issue. Lord Palmerston and many 
of his parliamentary supporters and opponents in both Houses of 



I5 6 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Parliament, was also on the stand, smiling and bowing in his hap- 
piest mood. He wore a blue coat with a velvet collar, and was, 
as usual, sucking a rye straw. It was thought from his unflagging 
good humor, that he had made the opening of diplomatic relations 
with thejapenese Empire the occasion of pocketing the ;£ 30,000, 
which it was said and believed the ambassadors had staked and 
lost. The miscellaneous education he had received in early 
youth and his long official career seems to have fitted the veteran 
Viscount for everv company and occasion, and at a horse race he 
was certainly as much at home as in the House of Commons in a 
desperate party struggle. 

After preliminary races to which little attention was paid, the 
people were notified bv the loud ringing of bells, that the great 
event of the day was about to come oft: The thirty-two ^ horses 
entered lor the" Derby, mounted by their gaily dressed jockeys 
were trotted out and 'took a preliminary canter. They were then 
drawn up in line, and after several starts, which were pronounced 
false, the flag lell and off they bounded, swift as an arrow from the 
bow,' the victor reaching the winning post, a mile and a half dis- 
tant,' in something in the neighborhood of 2:40 to the mile.^ 

The result was immediately announced. An "outsider," an un- 
known horse, against whom forty to one was bet, had won. The 
announcement was followed by a lull of a few minutes, when the 
people commenced hurrying away as for life or death, by every 
road and pathway— some to the railroad stations, some by the 
pikes, in vehicles or on horseback, and thousands on loot and 
over the fields. Boys from ten to twenty years of age, of whom 
there were multitudes, formed the larger part of the pedestrians. 
These urchins had walked out in the morning and were now 
setting out on their return. Not a few were limping like wounded 
hares^but their spirits were not only good, but hilarious. They 
set forward with that stubborn resolution, so characteristic of the 
English race, and which has caused it, in whatever part of the 
world, to endure ail that is necessary to secure their object. In 
patient determination and dogged resolution, John Bull is indeed 
unsurpassed by the Ass. England has thus become the colon- 
izer of the world, the spawner of nations. The physical and 
moral qualities of the British breed, we may say, en passant, so 
fit them for colonizing, that no other race can compete with them. 
If the French or Dutch establish colonies, they are sooner or later 
absorbed by the English. This has happened not only in Amer- 
ica, but, more or less, all over the world. British love of adven- 
ture, hardihood, industry and bull dog tenacity, and the fertility 
of the British mother, have established the English speaking race 
in America, peopled the continent of Australia and the North Pa- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. I 57 

cific Islands, South Africa, and have even made headway in the 

™ e t d P°P ulatl °" °f '«!» and China. Unto them thTs plane, 

seems to be given. For th.s reason hard times, silent industries 

as 1 vvouM n o'lti:r n, t ?' SUCH - aS ln re f Cnt >— '- has seen and inch 
as would blight other nations only arouse old England to an- 

o.her of her great efforts. She thins her overcrowded population 

by emigration, and thus relieves distress by founding newcoS 

Australia, Demarara, South Africa. Canada, and the United Sates 

offer broad welcome to English emigrants. For the best Governed 

parts of the world, the regions of greatest happiness freedom and 

comfort, are those where English is spoken. Tn shon he E di b 

have issued forth from then- tight little island and conquered half 

.he world, and before the o.her half becomes aware ofThat is go! 

mg on, they may find the "blarsted Britisher" in possession. *° 

But we must return from this digression. It seemed strange 

'ffrf/^W hurry in this fashion from he ace courtl 

which they had exhibited such a determined wish to reach I 

appeared almost incredible that so many persons could have taken 

the trouble and incurred the expense of traveling nineteen miles 

under a hot sun and through clouds of dust, for less than Three 

leavlw T h r ent ' bUt f° ^ *T Tens ° f ,housands ""re now 
milS'- h M r n °,' the CaSe however . with "the mass." "The 

tne Derbv' o ha"' ° r tl,Cy UVa ' ; hemseIves °f the annual return of 
the Derby to have a country frohc and inflate their lumjs with pure 

v£sm with'^ P " V k r cham P^"e. No sentiment ifmo e uni! 
versal with our English ancestors than a thorough, genuine love of 
he country. On every occasion they fly to it, and when they re 
tire from the pursuits of the world it is always to the country the 
peaceful scenes of the country. They rightly think that this s 

ca 6 l del 7 ^ ° f ? e T mg Whe " yOU "^ the hi Khest mental and phys 
cal development, the 'Sana mens m Sana corpore." and when old 
the calm repose suited to age. No passion to the English seems 
so universal as that for the race, which is one of Englands's mo 
ancient and popular amusements. It is not only an amusement in 
which everybody participates, but a science by' which thousands 
make a support while others are ruined. Racing of some kind 

the RWH h t , he ea rj' ieSt dayS °" e o1 ' the most D °P ul "r sports of 

the British people. Foot races were common before the Roman 
invasion, afterwards chariot races were introduced and mithraic 
festivities were practiced in many parts of the country. At this 
period racing with horses after the custom of the Romans without 
riders was also practised. Mounted races came in with the Anglo 
baxons and during the ages when a man who could read and wnte 
was considered an effeminate milk sop, only fit to be a clerk of a 
priest, it was usual for knights and gentlemen to ride their own horses 



(40) 



g RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

During the reigns of Queen Elizabeth and James I. both of 
Whom were good S judges~of horse flesh and addicted to he turf rt 
was patronized as now by the royal family and the nobility , o. in 
a word the fashionable world. It was nut uncommon at that pe- 
riod, nor is it now. lor young gentlemen to ride their own horses 
at a match. The writer often saw them do so during Ins sojourn 
in England The turf was in a flourishing condition and 
so continues, as everything in England must be upon winch 
he ton smiies and lavishes its gold Me etings regularly 
took place in Yorkshire and Surrey, at Endfield Chase and nu 
merous other places During the reign of James I, the turf hrat 
assumed systematic dress and was scientifically and methodically 
conducted This national sport flourished with fresh vigor under 
the Merr e Monarch Charles." who established a Royal stud and 
spent large sums in bringing the breed of horses to perfection - 
H P e subscribed plate to be run for at all the meetings entered his 
horse in his own name, and was arbiter of jockey club disputes 
h has from that period maintained the first place among British 
sports and has superceded and taken the place ol the jousts and 
tournaments of the olden day- . _ 

Raring is nowhere so popular or so much supported asm Eng- 
land. This is seen in the inns and public houses, in the pr in s 
which adorn the walls of races, racers and jockeys , anc 1 in this 
year of grace, .8So. a turf club has been opened in the Wes end 
na tron'zed by Viscount Mandeville, M. P., son of the Duke of 
Cchester and the leading nobility, to which Americans : tf dis- 
tinction are admitted to membership, provided then tastes are 
To sey." This is the result the Ten Broeks and P. Lonlard s 
efforts to prove, as they have pretty conclusively done, that the 
American bred horse is superior in speed and bottom to his En- 
dish she This is equally true of cattle, and within a few years 
cattle bred and reared in New York from English stock have been 
sold at enormous sums to be taken back with a view to the im- 
provement of the original race. The etlect of the American cl>- 
niate "seen even more plainly according to the testimony of 
many northern authorities, in the superior phy^ of %^ n 
ican born and bred descendants of English and other European 
ancestors. The average American whether original y sprung 
from the English, Irish, German or Swede, is said to be taller, with 
a deeper chest, broader shoulders and fuller muscular develop- 
men P gea?e e r activity and more energy and endurance than his 
Furooean orosrenitor. While this, if true, is mainly due to our 
fne chma n ,e P ft'may in part be attributed to the ah -undant -„^ 
and satisfactory character of our food supply, a "^ the further tart 
that marrying in-and-in is very rare in the United States, while the 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



159 



union of cousins is too common on the other side of the Atlantic. 
This vicious custom has been carried to such an extent in some 
portions of Europe, notably in the Swiss Cantons and the Chan- 
nel Islands, that epilepsy, imbecility, idiocy and insanity are the 
characteristics of the dwarfish and deformed offsprings of certain 
families. 

An apology for mixing up these grave matters in a chapter on 
the Derby, may be found in the words of Shaftesbury : "If, whilst 
they profess only to please, they secretly advise and give instruc- 
tion, they may now, perhaps, as well as formerly, be esteemed with 
justice the best and most honorable among authors." 

But to proceed. We need not discourse on the Englishman's love 
of the horse. It is known the world over. He treats his horse like 
his best friend, his second self, and not unfrequently consigns him 
to an honored grave. During the latter part of the last century, 
the celebrated racer Eclipse, who won ,£25,000 lor his owner, dy- 
ing at the age of twenty five, was buried instate, bitter ale and hot 
buns being distributed to the mourners, who mourned most, we 
imagined, that such scenes occured so seldom. Eclipse's heart 
had been previously taken out and was found to be of extraordi- 
nary size, which satisfactorily accounted, as the mourners fancied, 
for the many noble qualities and the great success of the lament- 
ed steed. 

The passion for the race is, as we have said, universal, possess- 
ing all ranks and conditions, and strange to say, if possible, more 
intense with the women than the men. The ladies attended the 
races in great numbers, and have been known to ride at them. — 
One of these female riders was the wife of a Colonel Thornton, 
and evidently his better half. In 1804 she rode a match on which 
£"200,000 were depending, and with so much success that she en 
tered the arena again in 1805 against a celebrated jockey by the 
name of Buckley, and beat him. The fair equestrienne was not 
only an accomplished rider but something of a poet or poetaster, 
and has left some lively rhymes in which she apostrophised the 
delightful sensations of a match. Ladiesdonot now play jockey, 
but still lend their countenance to the turf. Petticoats are interdict- 
ed by the by-laws of the jockey clubs, not to say by an improve- 
ment in the public taste, but the fair sex has by no means abandon- 
ed that department of the fine arts connected with horse flesh — 
Often of an afternoon we have admired the beautiful creatures su- 
perbly mounted, careening through Rotten Row. Their success 
in this Olympic exercise is so remarkable that the most vicious 
colts are often surrendered to their management. They are there- 
fore sometimes called "pretty horse breakers." 

Races are now held in more than a hundred and twenty places 



l6o RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

in England, the most important of which are Epsom. Ascot, York, 
Dorcaster and New Market, at the latter of which places between 
four and five hundred horses are in constant training. Ascot and 
New Market are attended by the most select company, among 
whom is the Queen, and the meetings are conducted without the 
serious drawbacks which detract so much from- those of other lo- 
calities, such as Epsom where the attendance is rarely less than 
150,000. 

The Derby and Oaks were instituted by an earl of Derby near 
a century ago and the Derby day is now regarded as a great na- 
tional carnival, in fact the University boat race and the Derby are 
the only great annual festivals of the people. Both Houses of 
Parliament adjourn for the Derby and it is attended by the Royal 
family, the nobility, by statesmen, tory and radical, the ministry, 
by judges and lawyers, historians, poets, novel writers and journal- 
ists, the aristocracy of birth and intellect as well as by every other 
class of the community, high and low, rich and poor. The "Oaks'' 
is more slimly attended and principally by that portion of the com- 
munity which sports the title of "fashionable," though the usual 
per centum of rogues and blacklegs are always on hand. 



CHAPTER XV. 






DOVER — FASHIONABLE SOCIETY ON THE SEA SIDE — THE PAST 
AND PRESENT — DANGERS ON THE OLD ROAD. 



We do not remember to have seen in England such a succession 
of fair days, so little rain and humidity in the atmosphere, so much 
genial sunshine and so much balmy air as during the autumn it 
was our good fortune to visit Dover and the southeastern counties. 
Every traveler will understand the additional zest with which the 
sight- seer follows his vocation with the accompaniments of good 
health and good weather, which area sufficient guarantee for good 
spirits.' 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. l6l 

Before reaching Dover, lodgings had been secured for us by a 
London friend in Marine Parade, a pretty little terrace of lath and 
plaster villas (semi-detached) extending round the north shore of 
the bay. Behind was the town, flanked by towering chalk cliffs, 
and in front the dark blue sea. Pleasure and fishing boats, with 
the busy groups belonging to them, filled the beach from early 
morning to sunset, and on the channel were vessels of all sizes and 
nations — steam packets also arrived several times during the day 
from Calais, and enlivened the scene by landing their crowds of 
passengers. Marine Parade had long since come in vogue as a 
summer residence for invalids, for fashionable idlers, for gay Lo- 
tharios and wanton women, for all who wished to recommend 
themselves to notice by their dress, their air, and their civilities, 
and its villas during the season were rarely untenanted. Visitors 
always sought lodgings fronting the parade, where they perpetually 
enjoyed sea views and sea air within convenient distance of bath- 
ing machines. Our friend finding one of these villas vacant, took 
it for us and we found ourselves moored between two maiden gen- 
tlewomen, occupying the adjoining villa to the north, and a bilious 
looking Indian officer, on half pay, on the south. The fashiona- 
ble promenade was a long, wide and smooth walk between the 
village and the sea and at certain hours all the world of Dover 
assembled there to listen to the band, to see and be seen. Those 
whom gout or "fastidiousness" kept from touching mother earth 
with their dainty boots, sat in their bay windows, readv to greet 
with smiles and recognitions their less squeamish acquaintances. 
This was a pleasant peculiarity of the terrace. There was anoth- 
er — the end of a blunderbuss telescope protuded, in pleasant 
weather, from almost every window. As the afternoon hour 
of 4 o'clock approached, one could see the straggling haat ton, 
wending their way to the walk for the ostensible purpose of en- 
joying "a constitutional." Though these devotees to pleasure had 
in a measure slept off the effects of the previous night's dissipation 
and fortified themselves with ''bitters," they for the most part ap- 
peared jaded, heavy, wearied. For ourselves, we generally visited 
this scene about five o'clock, when all of Dover, ill and well, grave 
and gay, lively and severe, was on the tramp. The citadel offi- 
cers, in their oay uniforms, mustered in strong force, and eyed 
with profound interest the new comers of the softer sex. 

These Machiavelian bucks soon knew who the late arrivals were, 
where they were from and what they were worth. Whether they 
Were heiresses or co-heiresses, wards in chancery or under the pro- 
tection oi pater f ami lias. If so unfortunate as to have a father, 
his age and bodily condition were soon as well known to them as 
to the medical adviser of a life association, and it was certain to be 



(40 



l62 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

discussed how, when the old fellow was gone, "he would cut up." 
This was the slang phrase, the true meaning of which is, will his 
estate, when divided, leave a handsome penny to one and all of 
his offsprings. If a pretty widow appeared it was quickly ascer- 
tained what was her "jointure," and whether she was encumbered 
with "kids" (i. e. children) or was all forlorn. Dover in the "sea- 
son" is indeed, to make short of a long story, a lion's den, full of 
pitfalls, sunken rocks, snags and shoals, gins and springs set by 
the fortune hunting fraternity. During the forenoon the prome- 
nade was deserted except by limp and smeary children dancing to 
the music of the organ grinder, a half dozen workmen arranging 
the stand for the afternoon band, or making arrangements on gala 
days for a pyrotechnic display of colored fires; a few lank and 
weary female forms flitted to and fro between the Terrace and 
bathing machines, and a crowd of gossiping laundresses, fisher- 
men and seedy looking sailors, who lounged about the sands, 
smoking clay pipes and spinning yarns. The parade only burst 
in all its glories in the post meridian hours. 

Among the afternoon habitues of the mall were our neighbors 
the two gentlewomen and the bilious officer. They had struck up 
acquaintance with us by reason of our close proximity. Every- 
body at Dover is on the lookout for eligible "connections," anxious 
to increase their social circle. The cheerful ladies always walked 
forth, each having in leading strings a sore eyed dog. This is one 
way in which the stranger recognizes that he is in a fashionable 
community ; it is entirely a la mode for a single woman to sport a 
poodle. Another way is to ascertain if the people have music 
with their meals. This is quite the oriental flourish adopted by 
aspirants for the beau monde. Establishing themselves on wire 
bottomed chairs our maiden gentlewomen passed the afternoon 
dividing their attention between their canine pets and the company. 
They seemed to lay in wait of game, with a view to charitable 
comment on any obnoxious looking individual, such as the gentle- 
man with the diseased liver, who might appear. By these vener- 
able lassies such a blade was always supposed to have designs on 
them, and was pronounced a dangerous man. The Indian officer, 
whose long acquaintance with jungles enabled him instinctively to 
scent the presence of an enemy, took pains to locate himself as 
far as possible from his wily neighbors. It was quite apparent to 
the casual observer, that however unsafe he might be, at times and 
on occasions, the damsels were in no immediate danger from him. 

In Parade villas, as we have said, we took lodgings and found 
ourselves in the midst of this kind of a promiscuous and would 
be world of fashion. Much amusement we might undoubtedly 
have derived from a study of life on the sands, but our time and 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 163 

plans did not admit of such delectable dissipation. The town and 
neighborhood presented many objects of interest and with these 
we busied ourselves more agreeably if not more profitably. For 
the best part of the time, we gave the go by to the seething mass 
of humanity elbowing: their way up and down the pathway and 
around the band of H. M. 24th foot. (This is the ill-fated regi- 
ment which lost 850 men at Isandula, Zululand, in 1879.) After 
the fatigues of a well spent day sight seeing and a four o'clock 
dinner, we frequently sauntered forth to the promenade to take a 
peep at vice and folly through the fumes of our cigar. The Lieut. 
Colonel commanding the 24th Regiment, George Vincent Watson 
and his family were old friends, and much of our spare time was 
spent with them. We often dined en garcon at the mess of the 
24th and concluded the evening with a rubber. To Col. Watson and 
the officers of the 24th and the Artillery commanded by another 
old friend. Col. Singleton, we were indebted for much hospitality. 
They supplied us too, with a deal of information as to the 
leading people then in Dover. Among them we soon discovered 
our old friends, Sir Henry de Hoghton and Lady Eardley whose 
flirtation was still kept up with undiminished ardor. Miss Maria 
Turner, author of "The Garden of the Lord" &c, John Fradgley, 
one of the principal officers of the Bank of England, Captain E. 
Newstead Falkner, late of H. M. 30th foot, H. R. Fox Bourne, 
author of "The Lives of British Merchants" and many others . — 
The first few days of our sojourn in Dover were occupied with an 
examination of its ancient ruins of Roman, Saxon and Norman 
origin, and we entered upon the work with the zeal of a discoverer, 
notwithstanding our misgivings as to the value of much tradition- 
ary lore. Rich as is Dover in these memorials of other days, it is 
richer in its objects of present interest, and what with seeing the 
piers and jetties, the military works, the torts and harbors, its civil 
halls and church edifices, its museums and picture galleries and 
its lovely environs, we had little time while in our "Cottage by the 
sea" for anything else. From our lodgings it was but a half hour's 
walk to the summit (from 300 to 400 feet high) of the cliffs north 
of town. Upon these stand the renowned Dover Castle. It is 
said, by antiquarians, of course, to occupy the spot of a Roman 
fortress. Be this as it may, it is well known that shortly after the 
Roman legions were withdrawn, it was strongly fortified by the 
Saxons, afterwards by the Normans, and has ever since been re- 
garded as one of England's strongholds, in fact, the English Gib- 
ralter. Walking round the ramparts, Col. Watson pointed out 
the French coast which could be dimly seen without a glass. From 
this point Queen Elizabeth's pocket piece, so tradition says, once 
threw a ball to the opposite shore, a distance of twenty -one miles. 



164 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

This beautiful piece of brass ordnance was cast at Utrecht in 1544, 
and was presented by the States of Holland to the potent Queen 
Bess. The exterior is ornamented with various figures typical of 
the blessings of peace and the horrors of war, and bears a Flemish 
inscription of which the following is a translation : 

"O'er hill and dale T throw my ball, 
Breaker my name of mound and wall." 

The Flemish language having died out in England, this inscrip- 
tion has been variously translated. In the language of the cock- 
ney, it is thus rendered : 

"Load me well and ram me down. 
And I'll throw a ball to Calais town." 

The almost inaccessible natural position as well as the extensive 
works render the castle impregnable. The present fortifications 
have grown up in successive ages and consequently offer to the 
eye a confusion of style in the several parts. The effect of the 
whole, however, is picturesque and romantic. Over an area of 
forty acres can be traced some uninteligible ruins which are said 
to be the remains of the Roman, Saxon and Norman fortifications. 
After the battle of Hastings the castle was besieged and taken by 
William the Norman. The castle is within itself one of the most 
extensive and most interesting works in Europe. From it the 
views are unsurpassed. To the west the eye wanders over the 
Valley of the Dour, through which runs the London turnpike 
road, until the view is intercepted by a range of hills ; to the north 
the prospect takes in the "North Foreland," the Isle of Thanet, 
Ramsgate, the Downs, Calais and the French coast to and beyond 
Boulogne. In clear weather, the fields, houses and a wide extent 
of country are seen in the Pas d? Cains and even the celebrated 
monument erected in 1805 by the grand army at Boulogne to the 
Emperor Napoleon. The broad expanse of water in the downs is 
constantly enlivened by passing vessels, and presents such a vari- 
ety as is rarely met with. 

Here we shall take the liberty to detain the reader while we 
mount our Pegassus and make a course through the regions of 
the past. 

The old road on the banks of the Dour was formerly the high 
way to London, and became very familiar to us at a subsequent 
period when we traveled on it part of the way to the metropolis. 
Though Gibbon, in his xxxi chapter remarks, "There exists in 
human nature a strong propensity to depreciate the advantages, 
and to magnify the evils of the present time," we confess while 
viewing the silent and deserted inns on this ancient highway, once 
so full of life and activity, that they aroused many suggestive 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 165 

thoughts in the opposite direction, and we by no means considered 
the present as a degenerate age. We reflected with satisfaction, 
almost gratitude, upon having made our debut into the world amid 
the wondrous scenes of this wide awake, progressive age. How 
much better and happier than to have droned away a sluggish and 
half fossilized existence in the "good old" medieval times. We 
realized, as such thoughts passed through our mind, that it was 
of considerable importance when a man was born, at what period 
he comes into the world. It was something to have lived after the 
advent of McAdam, and be able to travel in a stage coach with- 
out risk of life or limb, even if still liable to bruises and contusions. 
It was more to have followed Fulton and the steam engine ; to have 
appeared on the theatre of the world after the introduction of tel- 
egraphy, and when gas had paled the ineffectual fires of the blink 
ing, twinkling, stinking lamp, which at the best only made dark- 
ness visible, and since coal oil has come in, only this up to the 
time when the pent up combustible vents itself in some disastrous 
explosion. We experience not the slightest wish, however our 
mind might sometimes dwell with delight upon the past, as afford- 
ing in some respects more real happiness than the present, to have 
back the past with only the things of the past. We must conclude 
then that experience had in our case corrected that "propensity to 
depreciate" alluded to by the great historian as we think it will in 
all cases when mingled with a little sober cogitation. 

When from time to time we have dipped into antiquarian lore, 
of that veracious kind which challenges our respect in this severe 
matter of fact age, in which so many cherished historical delusions 
have been destroyed, we have been not only amused but deeply 
interested with the accounts given by those grave, quaint men of 
the olden time of the misfortunes and adversities of their days. 
One of these relates how he was in danger of losing his way in 
the ancient north road, one of the best in the Kingdom, and how 
he actually did lose himself between York and Dorcaster. An- 
other tells how in traveling with his wife in his own carriage, he 
twice lost his way in one short tour, and on the second occasion 
narrowly escaped the penance of passing a comfortless night on 
Salisbury Plain. In those days the condition of the roads was 
frightful, and travelers in bad weather were often delayed for 
weeks together. Sometimes the floods were so deep and impet- 
uous that wayfarers had to swim for their lives, while the weak 
and inexpert were swept away. Thoresby relates that in the 
course of one of his journeys he with difficulty escaped drowning 
by an inundation of the Prent. He was afterwards detained at 
Stamford four days on account of the state ot the roads, and then 
was extricated from his position only by a company of fourteen 



(42) 



l66 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

members of the House of Commons, attended by competent 
guides, and who compassionately took him in tow. In 1685 the 
Viceroy on his way to Ireland was borne through Wales in a 
litter, while his carriage, which had been taken to pieces, was con- 
veyed on the shoulders of Welsh peasants to the seashore. 

In those days it was the custom, before setting out upon this 
old turnpike road or indeed upon any of those roads leading from 
the country to the metropolis, to canvass the matter for months in 
anticipation and to spend weeks in anxious preparation for the 
event. Tender farewells were taken of friends and neighbors, a 
will was made and duly signed, sealed and delivered with all the 
solemnities of a death bed testament. Thus says Evlyn's diary : 
"Paris, June 27th. 1650. I made my will, and taking leave of my 
wife and other friends, took horse for England." The intending 
traveler's midnight dreams were haunted by visions of disaster, 
robbery and death ; and his days rendered hideous by the lurid 
gloom which coming events cast over them. If he had survived 
these and the day of departure arrived, his remaining resolution 
was broken down by the parting scene — the wife hanging upon 
his neck, the children clinging to his knees and the sorrowful 
neighbors gathering to take a last look at their adventurous friend. 

Foissart gives an account of a journey accomplished by the 
mother of Richard II, who at the time of Wat Tyler's insurrec- 
tion in 1380, came in one day from Canterbury to London, for 
"she never durst tarry on the way." 

Of course this event would not have been chronicled but it was 
considered a surprising achievement, though performed with the 
aid of all the resources of Royalty and on one of the best roads in 
England. A good idea may be formed of the general insecurity 
of traveling in those days by an account of the expense of trans- 
porting ,£1,000 to Prince Edward the I, in 1301. The 
treasure was brought to London by two knights on horseback, 
attended by sixteen valets on foot. It was not sufficient, however, 
that the money should be protected by men-at-arms. In the ab- 
sence of hotels, excepting in towns, it was necessary to secure the 
guards from hunger. They were therefore accompanied by two 
cooks, whose duty it was to provide a "safe lodging" daily for 
the money, and to attend to the gastronomic wants of its con- 
ductors. One of them, after having accompanied the escort two 
days' journey between Chester and London, spurred on to the 
metropolis to herald the approach of the money. It may be of 
interest in these days to know how these ,£1,000 all in silver were 
conveyed to their destination. In the first place, ten panniers 
"wherein to truss the money," and cords wherewith to tie them, 
were provided, with cost 4s., gd. Then these ten panniers were 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 167 

put across the backs of five hackneys, supplied of course by the 
companies of hackney men established along the road. It took 
the guard eight days to arrive in London with the heavy weight, 
and six days to return to Chester without it. The knights each 
received one shilling a day ; and each valet was well paid, at a 
third of the same stipend. The cooks had each two-pence a 
day ; but the one who was in the prince's service having to stay 
two additional days in London, in order to count out the money 
to the treasurer, received two shillings extra. The cost of hiring 
the five hackneys was thirty shillings ; and the total expense of 
conveying the money in question was £6, 19s., 6d., currency of 
that day, or about ^104, 16s., in modern coin. 

More than two days were required for the journey from London 
to Oxford in the stage coach, in the reign of Charles II, a dis- 
tance traversed now by trains in less than two hours. When in 
1703. George, Prince of Denmark, visited the stately mansion of 
Petworth with the view of meeting Charles III of Spain, he was 
six hours in making the last nine miles of the journey. The car- 
riages were frequently up set and injured ; and one of the 
courtiers in giving an acconnt of it, said that he never once 
alighted, except when the coach overturned or stuck in the mud. 
The roads were equally dangerous in Virginia. In 1662, Col. 
Valentine Peyton, of Nominy, in the county of Westmoreland 
thus speaks in his last will and testament, 'Being about to take a 
voyage to Jamestown, and knowing the life of man to be uncer 
tain, I doe make this my last will and testament." 

Thete were, however, considered the minor difficulties and 
dangers of traveling in those days. The country, particularly the 
neighborhood of highways, was infested by troops of robbers and 
vagabonds. Many of the roads were so insecure that armed 
knights were employed to scour them and perform the duties of 
the modern rural police. The custom at present in Italy, Spain 
and Greece, of taking rich passengers and holding them until a 
ransom is paid, was then common in England. The great terrors 
of the road caused merchants, bishops, monks, lawyers, literary 
men and others to travel in companies, which gave rise to 
Chaucer's description in his Canterbury Pilgrims. Such in a 
general way were some of the delights of traveling in early days, 
and cause us rather to felicitate ourselves upon having had our 
lives cast in modern times. Reflecting over the pleasant advan- 
tages we now enjoy and not having the fear of Gibbon before our 
eyes, we gave vent to our animal spirits piping the following lines : 
"What one has done, when one was young, 

One ne'er will do again ; 
In former days we went by coach, 
But now one goes by train." 



68 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



CHAPTER XVL 



DOVER — THE CINQUE PORTS — ANCIENT CUSTOMS — WALMER 
CASTLE — DEAL — DEATH OF THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON — THE 
MIDDLE AGE OF MONKS — RELIGIOUS INTOLERANCE. 



But to return from this digression. The castle constitutes the 
chief defensive work on the north of Dover, and together with 
minor works in this quarter, and the series of fortifications on the 
hills and slopes to the south, defend all the approaches whether 
by land or sea. There is an interesting feature and peculiarity 
about the works to the South of the town, namely, a winding stair 
case of two hundred steps, or military shaft cut vertically through 
the chalk cliff, thus giving ready access from the barracks above 
to the town. These works lie near the celebrated cliff, called 
Shakespeare's cliff, which the great dramatist made famous. In 
King Lear, Edgar addressing the Earl of Gloucester, gives the 
celebrated description, beginning, 

"There is a cliff, whose high and bending head 
Looks fearfully on the confined deep." 

History, says a distinguished essayist, is a tissue of fables. 
There is no reason to believe that any one page in any one his- 
tory extant, exhibits the unvarnished truth. When Sir Walter 
Raleigh wrote his history of the world he was a prisoner in the 
Tower of London. One morning he heard the noise of a vehe 
ment contention under his window, but he could neither see the 
combatants, nor distinguish exactly what was said. One person 
after another came into his apartment, and he enquired of them 
the nature of the affray, but their accounts were so inconsistent 
that he found himself wholly unable to arrive at the truth of the 
story. Sir Walter's reflection on this was obvious, yet acute. 
"What," said he, "can I not make myself master of an incident 
which happened an hour ago under my window, and shall I im- 
agine I can truly understand the history of Hannibal and Caesar," 
President John Adams thus expresses himself on this subject : 

"I have little faith in history. I read it as 1 do ro- 
mance, believing what is probable and rejecting what I must. 
Thucydides, Tacitus, Livy, Hume, Robertson, Gibbon, Ray- 
nal and Voltaire, are all alike. Our American history for the 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 169 

last fifty years is already as much corrupted as any half century 
of ecclesiastical history, from the Council of Nice to the restora- 
tion of the Inquisition in 1815 If I were to vvritea history of the 
last 60 years, as the facts rest in my memory, and according to 
my judgment, and under the oath of pro vnitate historiarum 
mcarum dcam ipsum obtestor^ hundred writers in America, France, 
England and Holland would immediately appear, and call me, to 
myself, and before the world, a gross liar and a perjured villain." 
This view is not very encouraging and would seem to belie the 
maxim that time will clear up all obscurities. Nevertheless we 
will venture to enter into some of the received particulars of the 
history of this famous old sea side town. If not fiction they pos- 
sess the merit of being equally as interesting. Dover is the prin- 
cipal of the maratime towns constituting the association known as 
"Cinque Ports." This remarkable fraternity, so intimately con- 
nected with the coast of Kent and Sussex, is still in existence after 
a lapse of ei^ht centuries. As early, if not earlier than the Nor- 
man times, Dover, Sandwich, Hythe, Romney and Hastings en- 
joyed peculiar municipal privileges, granted them on condition that 
they would furnish shipping to defend the Southern coast (Eng- 
land having no navy then) and maintain easy communication with 
the continent in time of peace. To them were afterwards added 
YYinchelsea, Rye and Seaford. William the Norman separated 
the civil and military administration of these ports*from that of the 
rest of Kent and Sussex and placed both under a Lord Warden, 
who was the governor of these havens and their dependencies, and 
had the authority of an admiral and power to hold a court of ad- 
miralty and courts of law and equity. This officer resided at the 
castle and exercised the functions of Lord-Lieutenant, sheriff and 
custos rotoloum as also admiral over this part of the realm. In 
the course of time the fraternity was enlarged by the admission of 
other towns, either as principals or members, and since the days of 
William I, each port has been governed by Jurats and Barons, in- 
stead of aldermen and freemen ; the difference being not merely 
in name, but in some of the functions also. In the year 1347, Sir 
Robert Peyton, second baron Ufford, Earl of Suffolk was com- 
missioned by Edward III., Lord High Admiral of England, and 
commanded the King's whole fleet and sailed from one of the 
Cinque ports, where his naval armament was formed and equip- 
ped to the coasts of the northern powers, and only returned to 
serve on land with the "black prince" at the battle of Poictiers 
where, says Burke, "his Lordship achieved the highest military 
renown by his skill as a leader and his personal courage at the 
head of his troops." The founding of the British navy and the 
silting up of many of the harbors, c ombined to render the Cinque 

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17O RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

Ports a nullity so far as concerned this matter ; but many of the 
old political and municipal privileges and usages continue to exist. 
The Cinque system may now be regarded as a curious relic of 
past days, retained because it is old rather than because it is of any 
use. The Constable of Dover Castle for the time being is Lord- 
Warden of the Cinque Ports ; the clerk of the Castle is under- 
sheriff of the Cinque ports, and these two functionaries are con- 
cerned in the holding of official meetings called the Courts of 
Shepway, the Courts of Brotherhood and the Courts of Guestling. 
The Lord Wardens, (the office is now a sinecure,) no longer reside 
in the castle but during the period when in Kent fix their residence 
at VValmer Castle about seven miles north of Dover. Prince Al- 
bert was for many years and up to the period of his death Lord 
Warden. Afterwards Lord Palmerston was appointed, and in 
1862 attended at Dover and held sessions of the three courts men- 
tioned, though at the time nearly 80 years of age and Prime Min 
ister. In addition to the use of the castle there is a salary of ^£4,- 
000 per annum attached to this now useless office. 

Upon one occasion we made an excursion from Dover to VVal- 
mer Castle through the villages of Orkney and Ringwould. Wal- 
mer Castle is an object of much interest to all tourists, not only as 
the official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, and 
the scene of the last hours of the famous Duke of Wellington, 
but for its antiquity, having been built and provided with a moat 
and drawbridge by Henry Vlli in 1539. We were surprised to 
find the chief part of the moat converted into a garden, and look- 
ing far more picturesque than military. In other respects the 
grim old castle is now intact, and at the period of our visit was oc- 
cupied by the present Lord Warden, Karl Grosvenor. During 
the time Mr. Pitt was Prime Minister, he was, like Lord Palmer- 
ston. the Lord Warden and occasionally spent some days at Wal- 
mer away from the toils of business. The guide shewed us a room 
in which the "heaven born minister" and Nelson planned some of 
their great naval schemes. We were also shown the room in 
which the Duke of Wellington, who resided two months every 
year at Walmer, slept upon a narrow camp bedstead of iron, with 
a straw mattress and cotton coverlet. The room contained no oth- 
er furniture beyond a camp stool and an iron wash-hand stand, 
with a small looking glass affixed. His simple tastes and his hab- 
its as a soldier caused him to prefer such a sleeping room to the 
most sumptuous bed chamber. His windows looked out upon 
the sea and a door admitted him to the ramparts, where he walked 
for two hours every morning. On the 4th of September, 1852, on 
his iron bedstead, in this small, plain room, the hero of Waterloo 
expired, having near him his son, Lord Charles Wellesley, pres- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



iyi 



ent Duke of Wellington, an apothecary from the neighboring town 
of Deal, and the household domestics. This room to which vis- 
itors are now admitted, is reverently kept with as litlle alteration 
as possible. The gardens and shrubbery around are beautiful and 
the view from the ramparts over the sea, wide and magnificent; 
but the peculiar interest which attaches to a place, like Walmeris, 
at least for ourselves, its old associations. We imagine there is no 
human being who has not felt the magnetic power of such associa- 
tions. They grow with our growth and strengthen with our 
strength. When old age comes creeping on and the pulse rises 
slowly, and the life blood runs colder from the heart, and the limbs 
begin to fail ; when the visions of youth and the hopes of early 
manhood and the ambitions of maturer years are obliterated and 
annihilated, when the grave yawns grimly before, and the thin 
white hair hardly covering the shrunken skull, when the winter of 
life arrives, then are these associations in their fullest force, and 
seem to say that winter is but the prelude to a new spring. For- 
geting the events of yesterday, the old man sees clear and 
plain, as though he were a child again, the old haunts and the old 
faces, and his ears, deaf to the voices around him, hear old famil- 
iar voices, long since hushed in the tomb. The barren path of 
age winds through the green memories of childhood, recalling at 
every step, old thoughts, dead loves and perished remembran 

This effort having exhausted our rhetorical powers, this hot 
weather, let us return from whence we came, to wit, to Walmer, 
from whence we proceeded, on the beach, to the famous old port 
of Deal. In its aspect and appearance it is directly the opposite 
of I Jover. There are no hills or cliffs at this part of the coast, but 
the town stands upon an open beach fully fronting the sea. The 
harbor is good and from its accessibility it has long been provided 
with works as a guard against hostile invasion. In the reign of 
Henry VIII., Deal and Sandown Castles were built with this view. 
Both have abundance of draw bridges, round towers and turrets. 
We were informed by a friend who was industriously plying us 
with learned lore, that in the seventeenth century one Col. Hen- 
derson was long confined in Sandown Castle, suspected of being a 
regicide. Our considerate friend stopped short in his narrative, 
and we do not know who Col. Henderson was, nor do we know in 
what king's blood he wished to imbue his hands. But as one 
Charles was laying his head upon the block by order of Crom- 
well about this time and the other was a refugee among the Dutch 
at the Hague, it must be presumed that it was upon one or the 
other that this patriotic and blood-thirsty member of the Hender- 
son family wished to vent his patriotism. 

On our return to Dover we stopped three miles west of the town 



172 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

long enough to examine the ruins of St. Radiguns, "whose mould- 
'ring abbey walls, o'erhang the glade." This religious house, says 
the guidebook, and we never fail to keep this faithful friend by us 
and to occasionally draw inspiration from its pages, was founded 
in the twelfth century for the Premonstratensians, a religious order 
of regular Canons or Monks of Premontre, instituted in the twelfth 
century in the Isle of France by Father Norbet. This devoted 
man is better known to history than Col. Henderson, and when 
only 32 years of age accompanied the Emperor Henry V to Rome, 
was ordained a Priest a few years later, founded this order when 
40 years of age ; was Archbishop of Magdeburg six years sub- 
sequently, and a benefactor, though dead, is not forgotten ; was 
canonized by Gregory XIII, four hundred and forty-ei«ht years 
after his death. We defy the critics to find any of this precise 
and we may add interesting, not to say recondite historical infor- 
mation in the guide book. Let them search its pages, however in- 
dustriously, hold fast the volume with a tight grip, turn over the 
leaves with nervous twitching fingers, stretch every muscle of the 
brain to the fullest extent, until the veins start out upon their brows 
and their eyes grow dim, and they will find nothing of it in the 
cockneys' road book. We chuckle at gaining this advantage over 
those carping, fault finding, overwise (in their own conceit) fellows, 
at mystifying the Shank's mare peripatetic, who only from the itin- 
erary, and at the same time gaining favor with our reader by giv- 
ing him some evidence that we possess a little solid historical 
knowledge. Thus entrenched in the good opinion of our reader, 
he will travel in our company, with a gratifying sense of security, 
though we say it who should not. He will soon learn that he is 
not going to be deceived with legends, fables and such like ro- 
mance, but be supplied with the sound pabulum of the historic 
muse. His guide, philosopher and friend may at times be a little 
discursive, but the reader is advised to cultivate the belief that he 
knows how to handle a subject, how to descend to particulars, en- 
ter into the details and come to the point, as he has evidently done 
in the case of Archbishop Norbet, with the most gratifying success. 
To be serious, and to return to the main subject. This Abbey 
was founded for the White Canons by an Earl and Countess— ev- 
erything must be started in England by a Lord or Lady, one or 
both. It was richly endowed in the reign of Edward I. Its ab- 
bots were summoned to Parliament, and in 1319 it was specially 
honored by a visit from Edmund II. Important historical infor- 
mation to be sure, cries the cynic who believes that all human af- 
fairs are so entangled that the truth cannot be told. We care not 
to be driven from our course by perverseness of this nature and 
shall continue with our history. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 173 

The ruins of the Abbey are extensive and the walls of great 
thickness. Many fine windows and doorways of elaborate work , 
manship still remain in tolerable preservation. Every part of Eng- 
land can lay claim to these traces of a monastic life which has al-. 
together passed away from the country. There is scarcely any 
portion of the land in which the ruins of Abbeys, monasteries and 
priories are not to be found, lying in green, sheltered valleys, or 
retired among the hills, rising up amid the fertile champaign coun-i 
try, embosomed in majestic trees or perched upon grey promento-i 
ries looking out upon the sea. Their architecture is unexcelled in' 
modern times. They were great builders in what is called the; 
"dark ages." But the monks of old were more than architects. — \ 
They were in fact the only literary class of their age. They w 
the repositories of all art, science and knowledge. They have 
handed down to us the great thoughts of the ancients. Whatever, 
there was of morality and intelligence in their day they represent-, 
ed In the midst of a rude, savage epoch these monks were pav- 
ing the way for the reign of universal justice. In the midst of their 
religious meditations they pursued the arts of industry and cultiva-i 
ted science. In appreciating the civilization of our times it is only 
fair to do justice to the men of those days. The lives they led,) 
the life of the monastery, is unsuited to our times. It is the duty 
of religion in this day to uplift and elevate the mass, to ameliorate 
the lot of all who toil, to work out a daily practical result. It can- 
not fulfil its mission in our day and generation living apart 1. 
the world engaged in abstract meditations. 

The acute Hallam, in his "Middle Ages," very truly observes 
that the sole hope for classical literature depended on the Latin 
language which would probably have been lost if three circum- 
stances had not combined to maintain it, viz., the papal supremacy, 
the monastic institutions, and the use of the Latin liturgy. — 
Through the first, a continued intercourse was maintained between 
Rome and the several nations of Europe, so that a common lan- 
guage became necessary. The parochial clergy were very igno- 
rent, and the little learning that existed was among the monks, 
whose monasteries served as secure repositories for the books and 
MSS., which could scarcely have descended to us by any other 
channel. Thus Papacy and its concomitants, which Protestants 
are accustomed to condemn, were eventually of the utmost advan- 
tage to learning, and to the establishment of a more liberal Chris- 
tianity. , 

These are facts, and facts are stubborn things. If they teach noth- 
ing else, they teach that the world owes a debt of gratitude to the 
Roman Catholics for the preservation of the learned treasures of 
Rome and Athens and whatever vast influence they may have 



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174 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

exerted upon mankind. In view of the obligations the world owes 
to the Papacy, it seems strange that the bitterness of religious big- 
otry and intolerance should be so persistently directed towards 
both high and low in the only church" which existed for over 1500 
of the 1879 years which have passed away since the birth of Christ ; 
that the Priests should often be represented as beings without hu- 
man tastes whatever may be their inner religious convictions, and 
the Pope himself be held up to the world as if he were all that is 
bad, the embodiment of evil and the worst foe of the gospel — 
This is not very fair nor will it have much effect in breaking down 
the vast fabric of the Roman Catholic religion nor in building up 
Protestantism. It will have little or no effect, for the simple rea- 
son that it is not true ; is not fact. And it may be inferred with 
tolerable certainty that a time will come when the erroneous ideas 
and this blind zeal will no longer deceive the world nor the zealots 
themselves. Can any fair-minded man assign a reason why the 
Romanists should be less sincere in their religious convictions than 
any other class of Christians"? Laying aside then any claim they 
may have upon our gratitude for the good they have unquestion- 
ably achieved in the past, why cannot we accord to them the same 
purity of motive we claim for ourselves? Unless we can do this 
we are intolerant as Bramin. "A Bramin" says Lord Macartney, 
"or any cast of Hindoos, will neither admit you to be of their re- 
ligion, nor to be converted to yours, a thing which struck the Por- 
tugese with the greatest astonishment, when they first discovered 
the East Indies." 

But to proceed. Though we do not go to the length of the 
matter-of-fact and mistaken Thomas Gradgrind in his theories of 
education, we seek in these memorials to adhere to the fact, and 
if fancy sometimes mingles with them it has always been kept sub- 
ordinate to the serious object in view. Fancy, we hope, has never 
run away with us, whatever tendency there may be in active imag- 
ination to mistake thoughts for objects. While the enthusiastic 
Gradgrind is undoubtedly very clever and entertaining, he is not 
at all true. Let us, however, end our hackneyed common-places 
with the theory of this modern school inspector : 

"Ay, ay, ay ! but you mustn't fancy ! That's it. You are never 
to fancy. You are not to do anything of the kind. You are to 
be in all things regulated and governed by fact. We hope to have 
before long a board of fact, composed of commissioners of feet, 
who will force the people to be a people of fact, and of nothing 
but fact. You must discard the word fancy altogether. You have 
nothing to do with it. You are not to have in any object of use 
or ornament that which would be a contradiction in fact. You 
don't walk upon flowers in fact, and you cannot be allowed to walk 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. I75 

upon flowers in carpets. You don't find that foreign birds and 
butterflies come and perch upon your crockery, you cannot be 
permitted to paint foreign birds and butterflies upon your crock- 
ery. You never met quadrupeds going up and down walls, you 
must not have quadrupeds represented upon walls. You must use 
for all these purposes combinations and modifications (in primary 
colors) of mathematical figures which are susceptible of proof and 
demonstration. This is the new discovery. This is fact. This 
is taste." 

With all respect for fact and many misgivings as to fancy, we 
cannot pretend to have been guided in our writings more than in 
our life by this so called new discovery. While adhering to facts 
with what may be styled a "healthy" pleasure, we have not com- 
mitted the error of attempting to enlighten the reader, by dem- 
onstrating that two and two make four as a means of convinc- 
cing him that all we have said has been upon this principle, has 
led to this undeniable result. On the contrary we have so far 
swerved from the false theories of the immortal Gradgrind as to 
indulge without obstructing our narrative in sufficient common 
place, in the way of reflections, to enable the reader easily to pick 
out our theory of life, and the average reader has a fancy for under 
standing, reading the author as well as his works. As we do not 
write here, however, for the purpose of carrying out an idea, we 
do not consider ourselves bound to adhere to severe rules as to 
harmony and proportion In a series of disconnected sketches or 
rambling reminiscences, a latitude is allowed which would be in- 
consistent with a treatise in which every part bears a relation to 
the whole. Availing ourselves of this theory we must mention a 
fact, on the supposition that the reader has not discovered it for 
himself, which is unconnected with the matters in hand and yet 
pertinent somewhat to all we have said, namely that, like most 
people who affect to think, we have some notion about the world 
in general. We are not likely to have a better opportunity to lug 
in this affair than the present, and we derive an additional pleasure 
from doing so for the reason that our fine flow of spirits has now 
and again caused surprise to our friends, who are familiar with our 
diversified and eventful career, in which there have been more 
"downs" than "ups." Our animal spirits are unquestionably good 
and our temper of mind the reverse of despairing, and we have 
thus been led into a playful vein of irony from time to time, but 
we trust never to the ridicule of grave and serious subjects. Our 
philosophy, if the word is permissible to us, is that of optimism. 
As a matter of fact we think events are so arranged as to turn out 
happily in the long run. Upon this hypothesis the facts of life 
are explained by allowing plenty of time for arrangement and 



176 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

by pointing out the imperfection of our means of judgment. 
"All nature is but art, unknown to thee, 
All chance direction, which thou can'st not see. 
All discord, harmony not understood; 
All partial evil, universal good." 

— Pope. 

In other words there is strictly speaking, no evil at all in the 
world. If a man entertaining such views is not cheerful sometimes 
even unto gaiety, where under heaven is the sunshine of the mind 
to come from ? and if such a man is sometimes merry may he not 
rely upon the indulgence of a generous public? Let us then com- 
bine not against the balm of Gilead, the Papists, the truths of his- 
tory or anything that is good or anybody striving to do good, but 
against those who travesty human nature by charging that the 
mass of mankind are generally ready to combine against excel- 
lence, because we can never adequately understand that of which 
we have no experience in ourselves. 



CHAPTER XVI 



FOLKESTONE — CLUB LIFE — MARTELLO TOWERS — SHORNCLIFF 
CAMP AND THE ORGANIZATION OF THE BRITISH ARMY- 
VISIT TO A COUNTRY HOUSE — LORD ELLEN- 
BOROUGH — ETIQUETTE, ETC. 



Among the agreeable people we met, when on a visit to Wald- 
ershare Park, the seat of the Earl of Guildford, and now occupied 
by the Dowager and her family, at the head of which stands her 
eldest son, Lord North, was an old gentleman by the name of 
Brockman, who, strangely enough, turned out to be the kinsman 
of our lady acquaintances in Marine Parade. Living on his estate 
in Kent, Mr. B. is a fine type of the squirearchy, intelligent, edu- 
cated, prosperous, public spirited, and hospitable. The duties. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 177 

privileges and delights of a country gentleman have been so well 
expressed by a charming writer, that we give them in his own 
words : "Indeed, I do not know a more enviable condition of life, 
than that of an English gentleman of sound judgment and good 
feelings, who passes the greater part of his time on an hereditary 
estate in the country. From the excellence of the roads and the 
rapidity and exactness of the public conveyances, he is enabled to 
command all the comforts and conveniences, all the intelligence 
and novelties of the capital, while he is removed from its hurry 
and distraction. He has ample means, occupation and amusement 
within his own domains ; he may diversify his time by rural occu- 
pations, by rural sports, by study, and by the delights of friendly 
society collected within his own friendly halls. Or if his views and 
feelings are of a more liberal and extensive nature, he has it greatly 
in his power to do good, and to have that good immediately re- 
flected back upon himself He can render essential service to his 
country, by assisting in the disinterested administration of the 
laws ; by watching over the opinions and principles of the lower 
orders around him; by diffusing among them those lights which may 
be important to their welfare; by mingling frankly among them,- 
gaining their confidence, becoming the immediate auditor of their 
complaints, informing himself of their wants, making himself a 
channel through which their grievances may be quietly communi- 
cated to the proper sources of mitigation and relief; or becoming, 
if need be, the intrepid and incorruptible guardian of their liber- 
ties — the enlightened champion of their rights." 

One afternoon Mr. Brockman called to say that he had just seen' 
his kinswomen in the adjoining villa, and had invited them to meet 
us at Beechborough on the 6th of October. He had repeatedly 
extended an invitation to us before this time, and now urged our 
acceptance in the heartiest manner. We afterwards learned that 
our friend, Aubrey Alexander, had written, asking him to call, 
which furnished an explanation of Mr. Brockman's generous 
warmth and pronounced politeness. After a conference with the 
ladies we accepted this invitation and promised to be with him on' 
the appointed day. 

Wishing to see as much as possible of the country, we express- 
ed our luggage to Folkestone and set out on foot, on a bright Sep- 
tember morning, for that place, by a path leading over, the cliffs. 
Our friends promised to join us at Folkestone a few days later. — 
This pathway is never safe, except on such fine days as the one 
selected for our excursion, and many horrible stories are related' 
of adventurous persons, who, attempting to pass it, have been 
blown into the sea below. During a storm these cliffs exhibited, 
as may be imagined, a striking combination of congenial horrors. 

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178 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

13ut seen by us when no driving storm darkened the face of na- 
ture with its portentious gloom, and when the rays of a bright, if 
not unclouded sun gladdened the sparkling waters of the deep 
blue sea, it awakened only pleasant thoughts. 

Folkestone on-the cliff is one of the most fashionable agreea- 
ble and healthy spots on the south coast. The high town is com- 
posed of new, spacious and elegant residences, many of them be- 
longing to families from different parts of the kingdom who annu- 
ally occupy them during the sumnTer. It supports, and this in no 
mean matter, one of the finest clubs out of London, called "The 
Radnor," of which the author was elected an honorary member 
and where he met many charming people and played many a 
rubber. Club life is one of the most agreeable features in the so- 
cial habits of England and contributes largely to the happiness of 
the people. The English clubs, unlike those of France, are estab- 
lished entirely, or almost entirely for social purposes, while in Paris 
the object of assembling is solely for the interchange of political 
thought or for the direct furtherance of purely political ends. — 
Even the great party clubs of Pall Mall, the Reform and Carlton, 
are social first and political afterwards. This the author quickly 
learned, for he long enjoyed honorary membership in the Reform 
Club and daily availed himself of the comforts and conveniences 
of this palatial edifice. These elegant centres of reunion exist in 
all the cities and large towns of the Kingdom, and the author rare- 
ly visited a country town to remain a week that the hospitalities 
of the local club, such as the "Weymouth, and County club" at 
Weymouth, were not extended to him, and he had the "run" of 
several in the West End. Shortly after he reached Folkestone he 
was admitted to the Radnor and it contributed much to the pleas- 
ure of his visit. Among the best remembered men of mark whom 
we met in this club were Lord Elibank, the venerable Marquis of 
Tweeddale, aid-de-camp of the Duke of Wellington during the 
Peninsular war, Admiral Sir Dalrymple Hay, Pleydell Bouverie, 
Sir C Eardley, Gen. Hankey, Dr. Henry Lev/is, Earl Damley and 
Mr. Charles Eyre, a London Solicitor, one of the best informed 
and entertaining talkers in the realm. After he had enjoyed a 
good dinner and a bottle of sherry, the charms of his conversation 
reminded us of a line in Statira's speech, where she describes the 
charms of Alexander's conversation. "Then he would talk. Good 
Gods ! how he would talk." The officers from Shorecliff also 
came of an afternoon for whist or billiards, and not unfrequently a 
few from Dover. Among the most constant ol those from Dover 
were Col. Watson and Captain Thomas. The latter, however, 
was not a part of the Dover garrison. Those who came with no 
view to the intellectual dissipation of cards, sipped Irish whiskey, 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



179 



smoked old pipes and discussed in a pathetic mood the progress 
of liberal idea, for two of the most conservative elements in the 
kingdom are the army and navy. 

The old town of Folkestone, lying on the sands below the cliffs, 
is a curious place, full of narrow streets, blind alleys and stuffy 
courts. It is said to have been occupied bv the Romans and the 
ruins of one of their watch towers are still pointed out. In more 
recent times the old town was the resort of smugglers and pirates, 
and is now much loved and crowded by fishermen, harbor labor- 
ers, sailors and other boisterous spirits, male and female. Like all 
low lying fishing villages it is a foul smelling and uninviting place. 
At low water the harbor is a heap of mud and the stranger' sees 
little but trains coming; and going, steamers landing sallow, beard- 
ed and strange looking people from the continent and piles on piles 
of luggage. 

While making our headquarters in this place, we visited many 
interesting localities on the coast of Kent, notably Romney Marsh 
and Dungeness Light House. It may not be uninteresting to give 
some account of them. Our route from Dungeness was along the 
cliffs by Sandgate, a bold line of hills lying back of a flat shore of 
shingle. As we pursued our way we passed at regular intervals a 
number of Martello Towers. These isolated towers are so called 
from the fact that the first one towards which the attention of Eng- 
land was directed was in Martello bay, Corsica. When the British 
naval force was operating against Corsica in 1784, a round tower 
at Marletto or Myrtle bay made so gallant a resistance as to attract 
the attention not only of the British government, but of all Eu- 
rope ; and the English resolved to construct a number of the same 
kind on their own coast The Marletto tower is a circular brick 
or stone fort of two stories, the lower divided into chambers for 
the reception of stores and the upper fitted up as a casement or 
vaulted chamber for the troops. The diameter usually diminishes 
from about 40 feet at the base to 30 feet at the summit ; the height 
is about 30 feet, and the thickness varies from about five feet on 
the land side to ten or more on the sea face. The vaulted roof is 
so thick and strong as to be shell proof. The circular wall extends 
high enough to form a parapet, and on the circular space within 
this parapet is a gun working on a traversing platform. The door- 
way is at a height of about eight or ten feet from the ground, ac- 
cessible by a wooden ladder, which is removed during a siege. — 
Many of them are surrounded by a ditch and glacis. They con- 
stitute a singular series of defensive works, of very little value 
since the invention of rifled cannon. 

Sandgate the first place of any size after leaving Folkestone for 
Durgeness is an aspiring watering place and lies nestling between 



l8o RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

green hills and the sea. Passing it we reached ShornclifF Camp, 
situated up the naked hills and hence the name "Shorn" or "bare" 
cliff, remarkable for its healthfulness, which fact and its prox- 
imity to the sea has led to its selection as a camping ground for 
troops. It was first used for this purpose during the wars of 
Napoleon, when it was thought of the first importance to keep a 
watch upon him, and if he approached the English coast to have 
a trained force ready to meet him. During the Crimean war large 
bodies of troops were kept here as at present and in fact the catnp 
has been a ?'endrzvous since the year 1804. 

A few brief words may here find an appropriate place as to 
•some of the peculiarities of the British army organization. It 
differs from the French and American is this that in the English 
service there is no Co/one/ Commandant of R< givients, actually 
in command. By the English system, the lieutenant Colonel 
performs the duty of commandant. When promoted, it is not to 
a Colonelcy, but to be a Brigadier, then to be a Major General, 
and so on. After becoming a full general, he is often appointed 
to be the Colonel Commandant of a particular regiment, merely 
that he may draw the pay. as a reward for services. There are 
many, however, who when they have reached the rank of Genera] 
are never appointed colonels, for the reason that the colonelcies of 
numerous regiments are conferred upon a single individual. It is 
a means of increasing the salary of a court favorite. Thus Prince 
Albert was colonel of half a dozen regiments he never saw, and 
received the pay of all, though by holding them he prevented the 
advancement of many meritorious officers to whom the pay would 
have been no small matter. Prince Albert consented to accept 
these positions and enjoy the pay though he was in the receipt of 
^30.000 per annum for his privy purse, and held other lucrative 
appointments. 

His course was severely criticised by all but the Court party. 
He was charged with an excessive love of money, with selfishly 
obstructing the promotion of veterans; of taking pay he did not 
want and cutting off the means of support of old generals with 
large families who needed it ; with a want of generosity in thus 
requiting a government and people who, notwithstanding his large 
private fortune, allowed him annually $150,000, not one cent of 
which he ever used, but which he placed at interest, and at his 
death disposed of in his will. It is obvious from these facts that 
he was considered as a man. like the rest of mankind, not without 
his faults. As however this excellent Prince was guided in his 
course by the genuine principles of virtue, was a good citizen, a 
good husband and father, and sought to direct the Queen in a 
constitutional course fur the promotion of the prosperity and hap 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. l8l 

piness of her people, it would be neither fair nor generous to 
judge him harshly in this particular. In accepting this pay he 
must be presumed to have been actuated, as in the rest of his life, 
by virtuous and commendable motives. 

On this occasion when passing ShornclifT we made only a brief 
halt, but subsequently visited the camp on several occasions. Our 
extensive acquaintance with the officers and with what is styled in 
England "military society, ", v v both here and in many other garrison 
towns, made the subject of English army organization more than 
ordinarily interesting. Let us proceed then with our remarks on 
this grave subject. 

England possesses the weakest land force of any of the Euro 
pean powers, and if she be regarded according to the number of 
her troops, is only a second-rate power, not more formidable than 
Norway, Sweden or Spain. England, however, in her proud old 
days, when her history was written, possessed no larger army than 
she does at present. A hundred years ago in London might have 
been seen many foreign regiments in English pay, and instead of 
sending her own countrymen to the battle field, the armies even of 
the Iron Duke of Wellington were only half composed of Eng- 
lishmen ; the other half consisted of Spaniards, Portugese, Dutch 
and Germans In the war of the American revolution, England 
hired mercenary troops from Hesse Cassel and Brunswick and 
instigated the Indians to attack her American colonies. It was 
the active hostilities of the Cherokee^ against the South Caro- 
linans in 1776, and other frontier tribes north and south, which so 
greatly irritated the colonist against the mother country and em- 
barrassed the operations of the American armies, which fought 
with foes in front and rear. And in the war of 1812 the British 
government continued this deplorable policy commissioning the 
Indian chief Tecumseh a Brigadier General in the British army, 
in which capacity Tecumseh and his red -skin warriors co oper- 
ated with the British and Canadian forces in 181 2-14 and until he 
was killed on the 5th of October, 1813. We shall not stop to 
comment upon this conduct or to give the comments of Bancroft 
or any American historian, anxious as we are to allow the bitter 
animosities of the past to slumber in the grave. We cannot pass 
on, however, without expressing our regret that this kind of states- 
manship still prevails with the Tory party, and during the cam- 
paign of 1879, in Zulu land, the British not only hired African 
savages to operate against Cetewayo, but bribed Cetewayo's own 
brother to deceive and capture the redoubtable chief. The Tories 
seem to have acted on the principle that all things are right or 
justifiable in war, without remembering the trite adage, though 
you should lose everything else, remember to preserve your good 

(46) 



l82 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

name. Let us not wander, however, too much from the point. 

The happy position of England as an island, which defends her 
from foreign invasion is far better than any other European state, 
permits England to rest contented with so small an army and to 
rely mainly upon a powerful fleet for her defense. Whilst other 
powers of the mainland, even in time of peace, are obliged to 
maintain enormous armies, that of England is not at present 
stronger than it was 30 years ago. The strength of the British 
army, has, indeed, for the last 50 years remained unaltered. 

Whilst the continental powers have been engaged in army re- 
form, the English army has remained upon its old footing. In- 
stead of red coats the infantry of the line wear red jackets. They 
carry the best breechioading rifles ; the artillery also possess 
better guns, and the service and drill regulations have been some- 
what altered, but this is all the modification that has taken place. 
The English army is recruited from the lowest classes, and in fact 
the army has not been inaptly styled a reformatory school. It is 
owing to the fact that such numbers of vicious characters enlist 
in the army that desertion is so common. Last year with a home 
and colonial force of 169,000 men, the deserters numbered 7,685 ; 
whereas in the French army of 428,000 men the deserters only 
numbered 300, and it was equally small in the German army of 
400.000 men. 

The English soldiers are better paid, clothed and fed than any 
others in Europe, receiving in one week more than a poor Rus- 
sian does in a month. The pensions, too, are much higher than 
are allowed by other European States. England can, under her 
present system, only bring about 180,000 men into the field ; and 
should she go to war with a powerful Continental State, she 
would be obliged to have recourse to some other recruiting sys- 
tem. In England, the large field manoeuvres, with mixed arms, 
which take place in European countries yearly, are unknown. In 
the whole English army, therefore, there is not a single general 
who has had under his orders 40,000 men. Should the English 
army, therefore, ever have to go to war with a European Power, 
and have to fight great battles, the want of manceuvering capaci- 
ties 6f the troops, and the still less practice of the higher generals 
having under their orders 50,000 and 60,000 men, will cause them 
great prejudice. In the Crimean war it was shown that the Eng- 
lish troops, in point of courage, were quite equal to the elite of the 
French army, but they were far exceeded in their manceuvering 
by the latter, and then the French manceuvered worse than the 
Germans who in this respect take the first rank in Europe. With 
respect to the improved military education of the officers since 
,the Crimean war, great progress has been made in the English 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 183 

army. The Military Academy of Woolwich is excellent and the 
officers are well educated, and the same may be said of Sand 
hurst. But it must be admitted that the English infantry and 
cavalry officers are far behind both the French, German and 
American officers in military education. With respect to the im 
provement of the men, the officers seem to give themselves little 
trouble in the matter. It is left to the non commissioned officers 
The distinction between the officers and the non commissioned 
officers in the English army is still greater than in those of the 
continental armies. The purchase system has been abolished, 
however, and therefore a great evil in the English army is re 
moved. This great reform, however, was so strenuously opposed 
by the Tory party that Mr. Gladstone was forced in order to ac 
complish it to resort to the Royal prerogative. The officers, 
especially of Guards and Cavalry almost exclusively belong to the 
aristocracy, and receive allowances from their parents. Without 
such allowances they are unable to live. The middle class as a 
rule do not send their sons into the army but place them in com 
merce, trade and manufactures. 

This wise course is becoming common with the aristocracy, and 
the Duke of Argyle, whose ancestor 800 years ago was the most 
powerful subject in the realm, a man in whose veins flows the 
bluest of blue blood, (if anybody knows what that, is,) has three 
sons in trade, brothers of the Queen's son-in-law, John D. S. 
Campbell, Marquis of Lome and Governor-General of Canada, 
namely, Lord Archibald Campbell, a wine merchant, Lord Wal- 
ter, a tea taster, and Lord , a cotton broker, and no right 

minded man thinks less of them, though descended from that 
famous Duke of modern times, thus immortalized by Popet: 

"Argyle, the State's whole thunder born to wield. 
And shake alike the Senate and the field." 

The English officers are, everything considered, badly paid. 
An infantry lieutenant must at least have a private income oi 
£100, and twice as much is necessary for cavalry officer. When 
oft" duty the English officers do not wear uniform, and seem as 
proud to be thought gentlemen as officers. The' recent custom 
therefore of the Duke of Edinburg in wearing his uniform when 
traveling and generally when off of duty, as is the case in Russia 
and Germany, has occasioned much comment and of a kind tar 
from complimentary to him. He has been advised that in Eng 
land the civil power has always taken precedence of the military, 
and that no foreign customs will be tolerated which look to giving 
greater prominence to the military or naval ; nor to the intro- 
duction into England of anything which smacks of personal gov- 



184 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

eminent or Imperialism. This he has been advised of notwith 
standing Baconsfield's success in adding- to her Majesty's title the 
words "Empress of India," 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



VISIT TO A COUNTRY HOUSE — LORD ELLENBOROUGH — MATTERS OF 
ETIQUETTE — OSMOND PRIAULX —TOURISTS- 

Having now improved our opportunity of sight seeing to the 
best advantage, being able to converse in an intelligent manner 
about things in this locality, and the time having arrived for our 
visit to Beechborough, we completed our arrangements, and tak- 
ing the Misses S , under our care we set forward for that hospi- 
table abode. The mansion stands on a commanding height. 
We had often seen it from afar in our various excursions, and on 
reaching it we found it one of the stateliest of England's stately 
homes. 

Originally built of stone or brick, it has been disfigured by a 
coat oT stucco, and is now of a drab color. Standing in a widely 
extending park of undulating ground, it has an air of quiet and 
comfortable old age, the ancient porch overgrown with woodbine 
and ivy, the tall gables peeping through taller beech trees. On 
one side the windows looked out upon a sunny orchard and a 
green hill side, which slopes down to luxuriant meadows. 
From the opposite side are to be seen far down in the Valley, 
near the stock yard and barn, a pool of water, always lively with 
ducks, and on the green margin of which a flock of geese were 
always gabbling. Lazy cows chewed their cud over the rails of 
the enclosure, and fat pigs delved up the litter of the yards with 
their snouts. This was the headquarters of one of the tenant 
farmers. 

Here we enjoyed a week's visit, rinding our host and his com- 
pany, for several others besides our party were in the house at 
the time, pleasant and agreeable people. There was a lawyer in 
the company, Mr. Hawkins, who always started some good topic ; 



RAMBLING REMINISCF.NSES. 185 

the rector of a neighboring parish, Mr. Stanhope, a delightful 
companion, and a lord — nothing is complete without one of the 
conservative race — and one of the great lords, too — the venerable 
and distinguished Earl of Ellenborough. Though it has been 
said of this eminent man that he was more eloquent than wise, we 
found him such good and. indeed, improving company that we 
are inclined to think that if all lords were of his type, we should 
soon learn to love. them as much as the average Briton. The 
company assimilated well and the time could not have passed 
more pleasantly — good breeding and general elegance of manners 
prevailing with all. A friend informed us that our venerable host 
took pains in the selection of his company, and never allowed the 
quiet of his country home to be disturbed by those so well known 
as '"trashy London dashers." He generally had in his company a 
few officers and their wives, but not those who recalled too forcibly 
in their conversation barrack life ; a traveler, if such could be found, 
unlike the stock tourist who travels far and sees nothing; a few wri- 
ters or literary men to make a charming spice for all, but like all 
apices, he would not allow too much of them. These "literary 
fellows" want keeping down said he; otherwise they would turn 
his house into an Athenaeum club. In their society, too, he said, 
you feel, if you venture to talk yourself, you should contribute 
something substantial to the "feast of reason" —a thing many find 
it, continued Mr. B., easier to speak of than do. 

Before leaving this hospitable abode and the subject, it may be 
permitted us to interpolate something as to that remarkable man 
whom Guizot pronounced the most brilliant orator in the Tory 
ranks, Lord Ellenborough. Guizot, who was long French Envoy 
to England and no mean authority, expressed this opinion, and he 
was in the habit of hearing Lord Derby, Lansdown, Sir Robert 
Peel, Mr. Gladstone, Disraeli, and other British orators. Hon. Ed- 
ward Law, afterwards Earl of Ellenborough, entered public life in 
1828 9, under the Duke of Wellington, and by the Cabinet of Sir 
Robert Peel was made Governor- General of India, where he was 
guilty of vagaries which filled the Directors of the Company with 
the utmost alarm. Although a civilian, he inflicted intolerable 
slights upon the civil servants of the company. He reserved his 
favor and confidence for the military, yet endangered the discipline 
of the very army which he had endeavored to conciliate by im- 
prudent and unjustifiable means. He made showy progresses, 
which brought ridicule upon the British name. He addressed 
proclamations to the rulers and nations of India, which appeared 
to sanction idolatry, and finally, in the bombastic and inflated lan- 
guage of his proclamation concerning the gates of Juggernaut, 
when brought back from Ghuznee, he reached a climax of absurd- 

(47) 



186 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

ity which no Viceroy had ever attained, yet the British govern- 
ment stood by him. Not so the Directory — the Directory, com- 
posed of business men. They recalled the eccentric Governor- 
General. As soon as he reached England he was promoted to an 
Earldom, and in 1858 was again Minister for India, and soon be- 
came involved in a quarrel with Lord Canning, the then Governor- 
General, the result of which was that he resigned his position in 
the cabinet of Lord Derby — not, however in the usual way. In- 
stead of handing his resignation to the Prime Minister, as if he had 
no superior in the cabinet, he laid it before the Queen. 

In 1855, Lord Ellenborough addressed the House of Lords in 
a speech in opposition to the Government's Russian policy, to 
which the "Times" thus referred next day : "The most briliant 
audience in Britain was kept for above an hour suspended between 
platitudes which no one contest, and the paradoxes which no one 
could believe. Most of those present retired with the melancholy 
conviction that, although the country may be sorely in want of a 
powerful war minister, that heaven born statesman had not been 
found in the accomplished orator who had commenced the discus 
sion." During the Indian mutiny, Lord Ellenborough criticised 
the Government policy and the conduct of affairs until it led to a 
breach between Lord Granville and himself. He continued his 
course of opposition to the Liberals until he was denounced by 
that party as the greatest imposter among living statesmen — the 
greatest charlatan among living politicians. Yet he was consid- 
ered, by many, as the best debater in either house of Parliament. 
We can scarcely render adequate justice to the charm and impres- 
siveness of his manner even in private — the reader can form an 
idea of what it was in public. His voice is sonorous, full, clear and 
penetrating. The figure manly, the features handsome, the hair 
grey, with the snows of seventy winters, yet abundant. His gest- 
ure is easy yet dignified, his emphasis not too frequent, but decisive. 
His eloquence is perfection, and we could not but think that if he 
showed to such advantage in the private circle, the admiration of 
Guizot, as embodied in his fine phraseology was not unduly exci- 
ted by his displays in the House of Peers. In his Toryism he out 
Heroded Herod, and was almost ferocious in his opposition to re- 
formers and any change in the British Constitution tending to- 
wards Liberalism. 

Our visit to this country seat suggests a few remarks on 
visits to country houses before we quit the subject. Since 
an Englishman'.s house is his castle, no one, not even a near rela- 
tion, has a right to invite himself to stay in it. It is not only tak- 
ing a liberty to do so, but may prove to be very inconvenient. A 
general invitation, too, should never be acted on. It is often given 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. I 87 

without any intention of following it up. An invitation specifies 
the persons whom it includes, and the person invited can never 
presume to take with him anyone not specified. If a gentleman 
cannot dispense with his valet, or a lady with her maid, they should 
write to ask leave to bring a servant. Children or horses cairn.. t 
betaken without special mention is made of them, nor is it good 
taste to take too much luggage. The length of the \ isit is always 
specified in the invitation. This saves a deal of trouble. While 
on a visit you should make it a point to give as little trouble as 
possible, to conform to the habits of your entertainers and never 
be in the way. On this principle you will retire to your own oc- 
cupations soon after breakfast, unless some arrangement has been 
made for passing the morning otherwise. If you have nothing to 
do you may be sure that your host has. Another point of good 
breeding is to be punctual at meals. A host always provides 
amusement for his guests— in fact the rule on which he acts is to 
make his visitors as much at home as possible ; that on which the 
visitor should act, is to interfere as little as possible with the do- 
mestic routine of the house. 

But we are again in Folkestone and must give the reader some 
respite by bringing this chapter to a speedv close. 

During our many visits to the historicafspots and other inter- 
esting localities and objects in this part of England, we were usual- 
ly accompanied by our friend Osmond Priaulx, of London, a man 
of talent and learning. Mr. Priaulx dropped us a note when he 
heard we were in Folkestone and intended to remain there a month, 
to say that he would come down by the next train and spend the 
same time by the sea. Delighted at this intelligence, we immedi- 
ately engaged him apartments near our own in Cheriton Road.— 
His active mind, which showed itself in a spirit of prying obser- 
vation and incessant curiosity, his large stores of knowledge and 
his intimate acquaintance with this part of the world and many of 
the Country people, made him not only a charming, but the most 
useful of companions. A man not only of talent but of genius, he 
was entirely unlike some with whom we have journied. We refer 
to those self satisfied, half witted fellows, who, because they have 
gone over certain ground and seen nothing, return as ignorant, 
confused and vapid as they started out on their travels, fancy that 
all that which a man of talent sees and describes has no existence 
out of his imagination. These snappy snobs who have now and 
again floated down the current with us, and who are destitute of 
observation and discrimination, incapable of deriving any benefit 
from travel, make themselves objects of ridicule by perpetrating 
comments upon the accounts of the more gifted class of tourists. 
Such fatuous individuals grope through the world in a kind of 



lS8 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

twilight, bewildered by the obscurity of their incapacity to see ob- 
jects in their true colors and dimensions, and bring strongly to 
memory the significant words of a clever writer, that the chief 
point of difference bet ueen a man of talent and the man without, 
consists of the different ways in which their minds are employed 
during the same interval. They are obliged, let us suppose, to 
walk from Temple Bar to Hyde Park corner. The dull man goes 
straight forward ; he has so many furlongs to traverse He ob- 
serves if he meets any of his acquaintances ; he enquires respect- 
ing their health and their family. He glances perhaps at the shops 
as he passes ; he admires the fashion of a buckle, and the metal of 
a tea urn. If he experiences any flights of fancy, they are of a 
short extent : of the same nature as the flight of a forest bird, 
clipped of his wings and condemned to hop the rest of his life in 
a barnyard. On the other hand, the man of talent gives full scope 
to his imagination. He laughs and cries. Unindebted to the sug- 
gestions of the surrounding objects, his whole soul is employed. 
He enters into nice calculations, he digests sagacious reasonings. 
In imagination he declaims or describes, impressed with the deep- 
est sympathy, or elevated to the loftiest rapture. He makes a 
thousand new and admirable combinations. He passes through a 
thousand imaginary scenes, tries his courage, tasks his ingenuity 
and thus becomes gradually prepared to meet almost any of the 
many colored events of human life. He consults by the aid of 
memory the books he has read, and projects others for the future 
instruction and delight of mankind. If he observes the passen- 
gers, he reads their countenances, conjectures their past history, 
and forms a superficial notion of their wisdom or folly, their virtue 
or vice, their satisfaction or misery. II he observes the scenes 
that occur, it is with the eye of a connoisseur or an artist. Every 
object is capable of suggesting to him a volume of reflections. — 
The time of these two persons in one respect resembles : it has 
brought them both to Hyde Park corner. In almost every other 
respect it is dissimilar. 

Much more might be said upon this subject, but we are restrain- 
ed by that laudable fear of tediousness' which authors should al- 
ways have before their eyes. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. l8g 



CHAPTER XIX. 



ROMNEY MARSH AND DUNGENESS — THE MILITARY CANAL — NAPO- 
LEON — PLANS FOR THE INVASION OF ENGLAND — THE 
ORIGIN OF ENGLISH LIGHT HOUSES — A TYPE 
OF THE MODERN POLITICIAN. 



After a few further, days spent at Folkestone, to which we re- 
turned from our numerous excursions in south-eastern Kent, as 
persistently as a Frenchman to his "mouton ;" days given to the 
blandishments of sea-side society; the intricacies of short whist, 
and the excitement of fishing in a cock boat on the English chan- 
nel, we set out once more by the Coast road to make our contem- 
plated visit to Romney Marsh and Dungeness Light House. More 
than once the reader has been promised the details of this visit, but 
as usual, our numerous digressions have prevented his getting 
them. Instead of going forward by the direct line to the end of 
our journey, we have allowed ourselves to be drawn aside, like » 
child following a butterfly, by the attractions of ShornclifT and our 
interest in the British army, and our sojourn at Beechborough and 
the delights of society in a country house. These have been the 
natural and interesting causes of our delay rather than uncontrol- 
lable impulse in our pen to wander wantonly and wildly. 

The coast road which we again followed, led us, as the reader is 
now aware, over the familiar path to Sandgate, Shorncliffand Salt- 
wood Castle — the green cliffs of Albion being to our right and the 
sparkling waters of the deep blue sea spread out to the left. The 
sky was bright and the air bracing. It seemed but yesterday since 
the merry month of May. The flowers were gay, sweet and pret- 
ty as when in the Spring-time, they leap over the lea and cluster 
round our feet. The glad voice of what seemed a new spring 
made the woods and welkin ring. Yet evidence was not wanting 
that autumn presided over the land. Ripe corn was stacked in the 
fields, ruddy fruit bent the branches of many a goodly tree, the 
air was loaded with the scent of gathered hops. Mother earth, 
with a bounteous hand, scattered rich largess to her children. The 
plantations of wood were kindling into hues of gorgeous beauty, 
mixed and manifold ; the stubble-field gleamed out like tarnished 
gold in the mild lustre of the temperate day ; clouds in the azure 



(46) 



190 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



ocean above floated away like silver barks — softly came and went 
the winds. 

Looking out upon the smiling landscapes which presented an 
enchanting scene of peace and plenty, the lines of the essayist re- 
curred to memory, "a beautiful prospect delights the soul as much 
as a demonstration; and a description in Homer has charmed 
more readers than a chapter in Aristotle." 

About midday we reached Hythe, having lingered frequently to 
examine some object of interest or to take a "bitter." One of the 
chief objects of curiosity of the road was the crypt of St. Leon- 
ard's church, where we saw hundreds of human skulls ranged on 
shelves for inspection. These ghastly remains have sorely puzzled 
archaeologists. The guide informed us they were the skulls of the 
Danes and Northmen who invaded England before the time of 
the Normans, information which we received with much gravity 
and many doubts. It is most probable they were dug up when 
the foundation of the present church was laid. Resuming our 
course we reached West Hythe and found ourselves on a plain 
something like a prairie, and covered with grass, with hardly a 
tree, bush or hedge, with few houses or inhabitants, but abundance 
of sheep. This is Romney marsh. 

The military canal which crosses this country is a singular work 
of defence, constructed in 1804, when the English apprehended a 
French invasion. 

Napoleon had assembled in 1803-4 a vast flotilla of flat-bottom- 
ed boats at Boulogne which was to be used for the invasion of 
England. He was at this time unusually active and energetic in 
hisniovements ; had gone in person to Ponte de Briques, a small 
village three miles from Boulogne on the river Liane, (the writer 
has spent* at Pont de Briques many a happy day fishing) inspect- 
ed the harbor and public works; reviewed the grand army, had 
caused it to be published in the "Moniteur" that the Comte d' Ar- 
tois had offered his services and those of the emigres to the king 
of England and roused the French people to a kind of frenzy by 
rumors that the inhabitants of La Vendee and the Chonans had 
set on foot a plan of general pillage and incendiarism. In such a 
condition of affairs all conservative people, all property holders, 
gave in their adhesion to the established government under the 
impression that there was no security but in absolute power, a 
strong man and a strong government. They consoled themselves 
at the loss of liberty, with the following arguments, which were, 
says Mme.de Remusat, in her recently published "Memoirs," which 
are destined to remain one of the principal authorities on the char- 
acter and policy of Napoleon, perhaps justified by the circumstan- 
ces : "After the storm through which we have passed, and amid 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. ic,l 

the strife of so many parties, superior force only can give us liberty, 
and so long as that force tends to promote principles of order and 
morality, we ought not to regard ourselves" as straying f rom tne 
right road , for the creator will disappear but that which he has 
created will remain with us." This was order, though Napolemi 
claimed that with the French Empire in Europe, began the age of 
civilization, of science, of light and of law. 

Three quarters of a century have passed away and what was ar- 
gument in 1S04-5 has become fact in 1880. Four Napoleons have 
perished and the idea represented by the last one, that of impe 
rialism, which was a menace to the present Republican government 
and to order in France, has perished with time. Thus the man of 
the people, the creator of equality, the rewarder of merit in France 
has disappeared but that which he created remains and is now rep- 
resented by the Republic of M. Grevy. 

The fragment of the Bonaparte family still in France at the head 
of which stands Jerome, known by the nick-name of Plon-Plon, 
the son of Napoleon's brother by his Westphalian wife, is without 
influence. Jerome is a man of ability but an indolent voluptuary 
with a decided repugnance for the active career of a leader. — 
Strange to say, he has always been a Liberal in politics and is now 
the recognized supporter of the French Republic. He has no im- 
perial disposition, has no party of followers, and is not likely to 
create disturbances. If he were so disposed, he could scarcely find 
anybody to urge his claims to a throne, which at best, never had 
anything but a pasteboard existence. The Bonapartes have never 
had anything in France except what was won by the sword, and the 
same royal road to power lies before all men of brains, audacity 
and cruel ambition. Napoleon created in the minds of French- 
men a love of liberty and equality and brought order out of an- 
archy. He and his dynasty are gone — that which he created re- 
mains. 

But to proceed. The course of this canal is nearly.coincident with 
the Northern margin of the Marsh, is from Hytheto Rye, a dis- 
tance of about 23 miles. It has an average depth of q feet and 
width of 70. It was constructed for the conveyance of troops and 
military stores along a route almost unprovided, in those days, 
with any good roads, but it has been seldom used; and indi 
though begun in 1804, it has never actually been completed. A 
raised bank is carried along it, as a cover for musketeers ; as the 
line is purposely made in a series of zigzags. Each angle of the 
bank was intended to be defended by heavy cannon." Military 
stations for artillerymen and infantry were placed at intervals. The 
whole affair looks very dismal now ; the stations are occupied by 
coastguardsmen, who have little or nothing to do ; and a spectator 



192 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

is apt to wish that something useful could be made out of that 
which must have cost John Bull a deal of money. 

Leaving this route at Appledore, we made our way in a covered 
cart to the Southeast, across the Marsh, to the town of New Rom- 
ney. The covered cart is the only vehicle of any kind which tra- 
verses the Marsh — is the only means of accommodation for that 
almost infinitesimal part of the travelling public which seeks busi- 
ness or pleasure in these solitary regions. Without springs or 
cushions, with broad, heavy wheels, crowded with sacks of corn 
and casks of beer, to say nothing of a multiplicity of smaller arti- 
cles, and tugged by ponderous horses of the Flanders breed, the 
covered cart is by no means a rapid or luxurious mode of convey- 
ance. The traveller has ample opportunity, seated upon a sack of 
corn and bolstered by a bale of hops, to study the features of the 
countrv. Stowed away in the cart among a lot of general mer- 
chandize, we commenced our journey at the rate of two miles an 
hour. Some ladies who were in the party, were sadly dejected 
and wonderous fidgety at the going off, but soon resumed an air 
of cheerfulness when it was declared that our fashionable friends 
in Folkestone should not be enlightened upon the subject of how 
we journeyed across the English Australia. The marsh begins 
two or three miles beyond the musketry grounds, and extends to 
Rye. It is a rich grazing country and supplies some of the best beef 
in the London market. The air is, however, full of malaria and 
the ague and chills always present in autumn. The air is indeed 
bad in winter, worse in summer, and at no time good. There is a 
joke that the marshmen know so little of anything outside of the 
marsh, that they believe the world t to be divided into five quart- 
ers — Europe, Asia, Africa, America and Romney Marsh. The 
area, about 44,000 acres, is so rich in grass that it maintains 150,- 
000 sheep. The whole district has been much improved of late 
years by drainage. The marsh forms a kind of peninsular, jutting 
out to the South, so low, that if a fierce wind came from the East, 
the whole might be flooded in a very short time. To prevent this, 
a remarkable wall called Dymchurch wall, has been constructed of 
. earth and rough stone facing. At about three miles from Hythe 
this wall begins, close to the sea. It is three miles long, 20 feet 
high, 15 to 30 feet wide at the top and spreading out to a broad 
base. The sea-face is defended by piles, groins and jetties; while 
sluices are formed to facilitate drainage. The sea wall or barrier 
was built altogether at the expense of the marshmen. From the 
interstices of the wall and in the low sections faxatile grasses spring 
up as also many fluviatic plants. Arrived at Lydd our last dispo- 
sitions were made for visiting the principal object of interest to us, 
Dungeness light house. It occupies the extreme southern point 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. i 



93 



of the marsh and four miles of rugged shingle separated it from 
us. Only vigorous excursionists undertake to make their way to 
it. We felt now that even the covered cart would neither be "de- 
spised nor rejected. 

"It cannot be done" was the irresolute exclamation of one of the 
ladies. 

"What can't be done ?" was the response of the strong minded 
woman. & 

"Why" said the first lady, "we can never walk across the shinele 
to the light house." & 

"It is a mere excuse," responded the strong minded lady. "Have 
you ever tried it ? no never ! well, we'll never give it up till you 
do" said the vigorous dame. 

The hopeful words of this Jady did not encourage the other who- 
gave up in despair, while her companion made 'preparations to 
accompany the gentlemen, saying determinedly: "It can't be done ' 
well, did you ever ? it must be done, and what's more, it shall be 
done and by this little woman." 

Mrs. Peyton and the first lady having decided not to venture 
upon such an expedition they commenced making themsehe^ 
comfortable at the Inn, as the escort of the second lady, and that 
interesting lady herself started with us for the light house. A la- 
borious walk of two hours and a half brought us to the desired ob- 
ject, which with two forts is situated" on the sands at Dumbness. 
No particular description of either would interest. Both the foi ts 
and the light house are annually becoming more and more inland 
the shingle increasing in breadth and thickness at the rate of a 
hundred yards every fifty years. This process has been going 
on for the last two or three centuries. The light house though 1 10 
feet high is gradually losing its vaiue Already plans are discus- 
sed for the erection of another nearer the water. It would be dif- 
ficult to find a more retired spot than Dungeness. Visitors are 
rarely seen there, and the light house keeper though in sight of 
the French coast did not hear of the revolution of 1848 until th 
weeks alter the flight of Louis Phillippi. It may not be uninterest- 
ing to our readers if we delay for a moment to' give a few facts in 
meetion with the origin of English Light Houses. Their his- 
tory is interesting and curious. It was not until 1696 that they 
were introduced into England. Upon the Cornish coast, about 
fourteen miles from Plymouth, there is a dangerous reef of rocks 
against which the Atlantic waves beat and break with uncontrola- 
ble fury. These are the Eddystone rocks, so named from the 
wild tumult of conflicting currents among which they dwell. Stand- 
ing in the highway of commerce, it is not surprising that main a 
noble ship went to pieces upon them ; nor strange that men's 

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194 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

hearts should have been set upon devising some means of giving 
mariners a timely warning. In 1696, Henry Winstanley deter- 
mined to devote himself to this task and commenced work upon 
the Eddystone rocks. During the next season he had raised a 
round pillar or light- house twelve feet high and fourteen feet in di- 
ameter. He labored incessantly upon it until it reached the height 
of eighty feet, when it was so far completed that he took posses- 
sion of it and lit his lamp. The first night he lodged in his strange 
citadel was one of storm and tumult, and for eleven succeeding 
days not a boat could approach the beleaguered garrison. They 
clung manfully, however, to their duty and finally succeeded in 
taking supplies to the heroic light- house keeper. The kindly 
glimmer of his beacon, dazzling upon the troubled water was con- 
sidered by all sailors of that clay a providential interposition in 
their behalf. Winstanley soon found, however, that at a height of 
eighty feet his lantern was sometimes actually buried under the 
water. He therefore recommenced his work and carried up the 
building to an elevation of 120 feet. The first Eddystone light 
house stood until 1703, when requiring some repairs, Winstanley 
and some workmen landed upon the rocks. Poor Winstanley, in 
his strong self-reliance in the stability of his work, had often de- 
clared "he only wished to be there in the greatest storm that ever 
blew under the face of the heavens, that he might see what effect 
it might have upon the structure." The night he landed with his 
workmen was one of storm, a storm which is memorable in history 
for its wild fury and for the fearful destruction it wrought— the 
storm of November 26th, 1703. When the morning of the 27th 
arose on the troubled waters, not a vestige remained of the light 
house, of the architect or of his men There is a wide distinction 
between presumption and courage, between self-confidence and an 
humble trust. 

The next person who wrestled with the stubborn difficulty was 
John Rudzerd. One would scarcely have expected to have seen 
one with his antecedents — for he was a London silk mercer — en- 
gaged in such a critical mission. But so it was. He commenced 
the work in 1706 with such energy and skill, that in two years the 
light might again be seen shining like a star above the waves, at 
the height of 92 feet. This last tower, however, was of wood, 
weighted at the base by a considerable mass of stone work. After 
standing over forty years it was destroyed by fire, its three tenants 
escaping with difficulty. 

At this time there appeared a man of real genius, John 
Smeaton, a native of Yorkshire. He had been articled to an 
attorney and afterwards followed the business of a maker of 
mathematical instruments. He was the first person who ever, in 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. Ig - 

England, pursued the business or calling of a civil engineer, and 
n fact may be said to have created the profession. He resolved 
o construct a tower entirely of stone and though the public an 

enThim IT °i )p ° Sed i° { !\ th /y fina]1 y ^ded their assent and 
lent him aid. Having decided upon the material, the next object 
of anxious consideration with him was the form of his tower His 
thoughts set upon the study of nature's own type of strength— a 

Slf "t h 6 COnsidere <V* jading Zte S take 
such a firm, broad grip upon the soil of its mother earth- he 
studied the rise of its swelling base, which when it attains' the 
3 l ab0ve one diameter, is reduced by a graceful curve con- 
cave to the eye which carries it to a diameter less by one-third 
than its original base. Now, then it runs up more perpendic- 
ularly in the form oi a cylinder, and then, a preparation beL re- 
quired for the support of its spreading boughs, a renewed swelling 
of its diameter is observable. Now, (Smeaton proceeds to reason) 
were we to cut off the branches of our noble oak and in that de- 
nuded state expose its bole to the assaults of wild waves at the 
base instead of wild winds at the summit, we have a style of such 
a lighthouse column as is best adapted to endure the peculiar 
tests of its position This is the well known story of the concep- 
tion of the idea of the Eddystone lighthouse. 

In 1756 Smeaton commenced work upon the rock, cuttino- the 
surface in regular steps or trenches into which the blocks of stone 
were to be dovetailed. In 1759 his tower, 68 feet in height, was 
completed. The structure is a solid mass of stone to the height 
of twelve feet. On the 16th of October, i 759 , the benignant light 
again shone out over the waters, a welcome gleam to the strainino 
eye or the manner, though it was but Hie concentrated light of a 
few tallow candles. And there was no better light till 1807 when 
Argand burners with silver copper reflectors were displayed 
buch was the recent and humble English origin of those numer- 
ous and splendid lighthouses now standing upon every part of 
the coast. Among the most important of those which throw a 
beneficent glimmer of light from wild rocks and dark shores is 
mat ol Dungeness. 

When reaching the inn on our return we found Mrs Peyton 
and her lady friend still industriously keeping up their chit chat. 
We felt grateful to the old maid for having made her time pas, 
so pleasantly. This worthy woman was unlike the pictures us 
"? Y j ^neated of aged spinsters ; her. bosom was not the abode 
of indifference or malignity. On the contrary, she was always 
cheerful, useful to those about her, the dispenser of happiness to 
her circle. Could the reader have listened to her interesting 
gossippmg conversation he must have subscribed to the opinion 



I9 5 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

that she had cultivated in no ordinary way "God's .gift of speech." 
The evening was passed agreeably in the inn, the social party 
havincr been 'reinforced by two wanderers to this region, and 
after a night's rest, we again turned our faces towards Folkestone. 
One of the previous evening's arrivals was a native of Kent, Lt 
General Knatchbull, R. A., uncle of Sir Wyndham knatchbull 
Bart , of Mersham le Hatch. General K. had been absent from 
England, serving in the Indian army, the larger part of his lire, 
and had recently returned to enjoy a green old age among his 
kindred His companion, a young friend of the old veteran, by 
the name of— well, we shall call him Von Humbug -was a some- 
what remarkable character, of whom we shall have a worn to say 
presently With both of them we subsequently became well ac- 
quainted and passed much time in their circles both in London 
and in Jersey, in which latter place Gen. Knatchbull extended to 
us the hospitalities of his well appointed establishment, Clare- 
mount Court. . . . , 

Suspending our narrative at this point, we shall anticipate the 
future by informing our readers that this young man Von Hum- 
bug was a rising politician of the toad eating type He was pur- 
suit Gen. K. with sycophantic servility, hoping thus to secure 
the entre to Mersham le Hatch, and ultimately the social influ- 
ence and supoort of the Baronet. His wily arts became in the 
course oftime a study to us, then so little acquainted with the 
ways of courtiers. Von H. was an embodiment of caution, and 
always careful to be on the right side whenever there were two or 
more sides to a question, the right side beirTg of course the win- 
run- one. As a rule, Von H. pledged himself to no particular 
party but just as a party was entering upon power it was certain 
to find him heart and soul for it. He avoided meddling with 
questions about which it was doubtful which way public opinion 
would turn, but whenever it became evident that a measure would 
become truly popular, he would advocate it with all the heart and 
soul he possessed, which, however, was not very much. Ihus he 
often o-ot the credit of being a wise man, and a far-seeing man, 
and a man who had the interest of his fellow- creatures at heart. 
He was very careful as to who were his acquaintances. it was 
one of his principles never to have much to do with those people 
who could do nothing to advance his interests but was ready to 
attach himself to the skirts of some powerful man, like General 
Knatchbull, whose arguments he would re-echo, and to whose 
utterances he always said ditto. Upon no one point would he 
bring himself to differ with his patron. He was perfectly aware it 
he could bring himself to eat a sufficient quantity of humble pie. 
and was careful meanwhile to fortify his position, as his patron 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. Icj? 

rose, so must he rise, until at last he would reach the pinnacle of 
his ambition. He was always found hanging about in the society 
of those people about whom there is an undoubted air of respecta 
bility — persons of acknowledged breed and position. He was 
rarely heard to say an unpleasant thing, or known to do a gen- 
erous act. For petty offices he electioned principally after dark 
and generally "spotted" his men before {midnight. It was easier 
to extract a promise from them, however, than to get the right 
ticket deposited in the urn. Von H. often found that the men 
whom he had tickled, returned the compliment by "scratching" 
him. He was rich in promises, as well as in money, but it was 
generally found that those who depended upon him got more 
pleasant things said to them than tangible benefits given them. 
Behind the scenes where nobody was looking on he was not quite 
so pleasant and polite. 

Those who did work for him in secret got little thanks and less 
pay. He was ever on the lookout for opportunities to reap the 
fruits of other men's labors. In his business, he utilized schemes 
which had been the thoughts of other men's lifetime. A good 
listener, he took in other men's ideas and retailed them as his own. 
He rarely tried a new scheme himself or ventured an opinion he 
had not heard from another and had reason to believe was the 
popular thing. He waited until it was evident a thing could be 
made to answer, and then he would step in. He kept a sharp 
lookout for new patrons, for .when one patron could help him no 
longer, he quietly dropped him and played the toady to another. 
He and his family never formed a friendship with any family 
about whose social status there was a shadow of doubt; nor in- 
deed, did they form a friendship with any one which couid not be 
dropped when convenient. His own and his family's position be- 
ing weak they could not venture to know doubtful characters. 
We doubt whether he was capable of friendship in the true mean 
ing of the word — friendship which would result in no gam, direct 
or indirect, to himself. Certainly he would not indulge in a sen 
timental friendship which would retard his getting on in the 
world. And being informed by his pitron that he was en: I 
to be married to a woman whose family connections were only 
apparently of the right sort, he severed the knot though it broke 
the girl's heart. But though Von H. was an adept at dropping 
people when it suited his purpose to do so, it was almost impos- 
sible to drop him. You could hardly insult him. he was impervi- 
ous to slights, and would demolish without a grimace, any quan- 
tity of humble pie. He knew that he could advance himself in 
no other way than by sticking to people who could help him, and 
he was too sensible, for mere sentimental grievances, to throw up 



(5o) 



I98 ' RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

1 

his chance of advancement. He felt that a day of reckoning 
might come ; meanwhile he would vent his spleen upon those un- 
lucky individuals who are under his thumb, and whose brains and 
hands are at his disposal. This toady loved the applause and 
good opinion of the world. To this end he essayed to get an 
office, to enter public life. Once a town councilor, a member of a 
board or in a petty office of any kind he would take the greatest 
pams not to endanger his seat. He would express no decided 
opinions, identify himself with no unpopular movement; make no 
inflammatory speeches. He would do his best to conciliate and 
curry favor with all men and all parties. He would never think 
cf advocating a new measure, speak until others had spoken and 
the direction of popular currents could be plainly seen and 
least of all would he think of proposing a reform. If every one 
else were content to let things go on in the old groove he would 
be quite content to do so too. But if a reform was imperatively 
demanded he would not risk his popularity by opposing it — he 
would indeed, avail himself of the opportunity to speak in favor 
thereof. He always feels, for he is still flourishing in the West 
End, very comfortably, and mildly deprecates any attempt on the 
part of the people to demonstrate that ail the world are not really 
so comfortable as he is. He takes a rosy view of things general- 
ly, and not even the recital of the deepest misery can destroy his 
airy cheerfulness. He is now, after the lapse of fifteen years, still 
constantly on the look-out for good things for himself and pro- 
teges, — for even this wretched follow has come to have followers : 
He is ready upon all occasions, to lend a helping hand to jobbery 
when he can gain anything by so doing. And all he does is so 
very polite, so very quiet, so very meek ! He has never acquired 
much influence, and never will, and strange enough, has so far 
never incurred the contempt he deserves. People, as we have 
been recently informed by an English friend, have not yet dis- 
covered that he is only a time server, selfish sharper and shuffling 
hypocrite. They see that he is ever on the winning side and ac- 
cordingly applaud his judgment which has just been fortified in 
their opinion by his election under the liberal party to a seat in 
Parliament, though for the last seven years he has been sustained 
by Tory pap administered by Lord Beaconsfield. He is now in 
Parliament but will undertake nothing but appear onlv as the 
follower of other men. He will make his influence pay, however, 
and will be certain to leave public life richer than he entered it. 
Though in a liberal house he will prove to be one of the worst 
enemies of progress, because he is, and we know him to be so, an 
enemy in disguise. It is somewhat surprising that Englishmen, 
who are supposed to love blunt, outspoken honesty, should be de 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



199 



ceived by him. They are however. We cannot believe that it 
will always be so. John Bull will after while penetrate his dis- 
guises, understand his tactics and be convinced, as other people 
are, of his insincerity. Before this takes place, however, Von H. 
will have no further use for Mr. Bull. He will have feathered his 
nest, be prepared to retire full of plunder and full of "honahs." 

Having sufficiently anticipated events in the foregoing sketch 
of Mr. Von H's character, and career, we must resume our narra- 
tive where we left off. Notwithstanding the doubtful air of 
Romney Marsh, we were much invigorated in body and mind by 
a night's rest at the Inn, and proceeded in the best of spirits to 
visit on the way back to Folkestone some interesting ruins. 
These are the ruins of Salt wood. Landslip and Westhanger 
Castles. According to doubtful traditions it was in Westhanger 
Castle that L<air Rosamond was impnsoued before her departure 
for Woodstock. 

The interest which attaches to these ruins is greatly heighten- 
ed by the moral sentiment which is blended with them. These 
degraded castles, now so charming in their drapery of ivy, were 
formerly no better than the strongholds of robbers, the dens of 
murderers, the homes of rapine. Well has it been said that when 
we recollect that these castles were formerly the residences of petty 
tyrants, who, before the royal authority was sufficiently established 
over the kingdom, from thence exercised their self created rights of 
pillage, on their miserable vassals and even over inoffensive passen- 
gers who fell into their hands, we imagine, when viewing them, that 
we are contemplating the carcass or the skeleton of some huge, 
ferocious beast of prey. 

Timedoesnot admit of any description of ruins, however inter- 
esting, nor of lengthened reflections upon the sentiments which 
they inspire. Our leader was the strong minded lady who accom- 
panied us to the Light House, and she soon conducted us to new 
Romney. Here we took an open boat manned by three fishermen, 
and setting sail soon madeFolkstone harbor. The glowing serenity 
that pervaded the whole prospect of sea and sky on this calm and 
sunny day was most pleasing. 

"The g^sy ocean, hushed, forgot to roar, 
But trembling, murmured on the sandy shore 



200 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



CHAPTER XX. 



FROM FOLKESTONE BY DOVER, DEAL AND CANTERBURY TO LON- 
DON — THE CATHEDRAL — THE "ASHES'' OF KINGS — THE FATE 
OF SOVEREIGNS, ETC. 



After having occupied Folkestone as headquarters for some 
time, the porter was ordered in to cord our luggage, preparatory 
to our return to London. A square top cab drew up in front of 
our lodgings, on which our boxes were placed. Household do- 
mestics gathered round about for a final "tip." Our kind neigh- 
bors hastily threw open their windows, as the news of our depar- 
ture spread abroad and human heads protruded from them as well 
as telescopes. Our cheerful neighbors seemed eager to get a last 
glimpse of the lady in the new ''waterfall" and the gentleman in 
duck breeches. 

Everything having been settled, we jumped into the cab, and 
soon reached the station, only, however, in time to see the train 
slide out of view with deafening shrieks. Here was a difficulty. 
We stopped a few moments to take in the situation. The station 
was becoming deserted. A few minutes later a single porter re- 
mained No sound was now heard, but the rattling of the tight 
cords of the signal post and the murmur of the winds against the 
telegraph wires. Flurried at this unexpected mishap, we deter- 
mined not to be defeated in our plans and concluded a bargain in 
a few words with "cabby," who, at the end of something over an 
hour, set us down in Dover. Proceeding to the office of the Deal 
coach, we took seats in an antiquated vehicle, a stage coach, or 
long stage omnibus, plying by Deal to Canterbury, and were soon 
climbing hills and plunging into valleys behind four vivacious 
greys. Placing Mrs. Peyton and Miss Turner in the interior, we 
mounted aloft and sat by the side of the driver. Drawing the 
duster around our legs and lighting a cigar from that of the gen- 
tleman on the right, we prepared to enjoy the drive and view the 
refreshing variety of scenery through the fog of our cheroot. 

The day was fine, the air just fresh enough to brace the nerves 
and give us a fillip to enjoy anything of enjoyment that might 
present itself. Though baffled in our effort to catch the train and 
our subsequent experiences of the road in a springless cab drawn 
by a jaded hack, we did not feel greatly de trop. The country was 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 201 

soon reached, and we passed on amid scenes enlivened by pretty 
villas which extend, here and there, from the sea coast to Canter 
burv- 

These villas and cottages, with their fanciful porticos and minia- 
ture parterres, are veritable earthly paradises. Each one of them 
is a little world in itself. All are alike and each possesses its in 
dividual characteristics. What an interest they assume in the 
stranger's eye ; what range of thought they call up ! We soon 
passed these and came upon a region of semi-detached villas 
which usher in the village — those rustic settlements every- 
where scattered over the surface of happy, peaceful old England, 
and so dear to the long imprisoned denizen of the city. The 
green verandahs, minionette boxes and pretty strips of garden 
give them a charming semi-rural aspect. The villages are quietly 
left behind echoing to the noise of wheels upon the rubble stones 
— the coach is in the country again, but one village is scarcely out 
of sight before the greys are approaching another. But we are 
evidently now coming to a more important place. The houses 
are larger and more independent looking, the villas are still semi- 
detached, but more imposing. From the summit of a long, gently 
sloping hill, a wide extent of country is seen. That fine old build- 
ing amidst venerable trees, with a well trimmed lawn, stretching 
down to the water, is the squire's hall. It has a quiet, venerable 
air, and has seen many generations of occupants. Dynasties have 
passed over its head — the Tudors, Cromwell, William of Orange 
the Guelphs. It still stands unmoved and the old race still sit by 
the hearth. What joy and what sorrow, what lamentations and 
merrymakings, have not rung through that old hall. Yet it lives 
on through the social revolutions which are following each other 
so rapidly, and of which the emblems are the steamboat, the rail- 
train, the telegraph and the gas lamp. But we have swept by the 
hall and the heavenward pointing spire, where the "rude fore 
fathers of the village sleep,' after exchanging a life of continual 
labor for one of eternal rest : and the school in close proximity to 
the church, where merry children, full of life, romp near to spots 
sacred to the tears and sorrows of mourners ; by cottages and 
farm houses where there are well to-do farmers absorbed in the 
risks and chances of the markets, with abundance of good wheat 
in their barns and little thankfulness in their hearts ; by other 
towns and villages differing in no respect from these, and after 
viewing a long panorama of lovely country and rich and varied 
views we arrive at the ancient cathedral town of Canterbury. 

The first object which attracts attention is the ramparts which 
seem of great antiquity and above which gracefully rise a solitary 
column. Entering the park which is handsomely improved and 

(5 



202 RAMBLING REM1NISCENSES. 

shaded with lofty lime trees, we proceed at once towards this spiral 
column which surmounts a high mound, and find that the ramparts, 
garden, mound and column are all of modern origin. A liberal and 
public spirited gentleman, presented the grounds to the city, and at 
his private expense improved them and enclosed two sides with the 
wall which is built so as to represent ancient ramparts. In grate- 
ful recognition of this munificent liberality the authorities caused 
the mound, 150 feet in height, to be thrown up, and the column to 
be erected upon it, to perpetuate his memory. This is called the 
"Dane JohrC* from the fact that the mound was according to 
tradition partially thrown up ages before, by a man named John 
who was a Dane. 

Canterbury is one of the most ancient cities of the Kingdom 
and has been successively occupied by the Romans, Danes, Sax- 
ons and Normans. By the Saxons it was called the City or 
Stronghold of the men of Kent. For thirteen hundred years it 
has been chiefly famous for its Cathedral and Church dignitaries. 

In 507, St. Augustine commenced the work of christianizing 
the Britons in Canterbury, by baptizing Ethelbert King of 
Kent. A pagan temple was converted into a Christian Church 
and St, Augustine became first Archbishop of Canterbury and 
founded the Cathedral and an Abbey. During six centuries, and 
the turmoils between the Saxons, Danes and Normans, the city 
was subjected to great vicissitudes and the Cathedral was destroy- 
ed and rebuilt more than once. It was here within the sanctuary 
that Archbishop Thomas a'Becket was murdered. This act 
caused the Pope to suspend the services of the Cathedral for one 
year. When Sir Thomas a'Becket had been canonized, pilgrim- 
ages to his shrine became famous and were kept up for three 
hundred years. It was these pilgrimages, which gave rise to 
Chaucer's Canterbury tales 

The Cathedral is built in the form of a double cross, having 
two transepst. Notwithstanding the different ages in which the 
several parts have been ended and the various kinds of architec- 
ture employed, there appears nothing unsightly in its general 
aspect, but on the contrary, the effect of the whole is pleasing. 
Immediately upon entering the church we proceeded towards 
the east in search of the chapel of a'Becket and where he so 
often performed mass. After his death it contained the shrine to 
which Pilgrims of every country flocked. No trace of the shrine 
remains, but the pavement around the spot, where it stood is 
worn away by the knees of devout pilgrims. Through the muni- 
ficence of wealthy visitors this shrine was most lavishly adorned. 
Erasmus who visited it in 1510 says, "that under a coffer of wood, 
inclosing another of gold, which was drawn up from its place by 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



203 



ropes and pulleys, he beheld an amount of riches, the value of 
which was inestimable." He continued "gold was the meanest 
thing to be seen, the whole place shone and glittered with the 
rarest of precious jewels, most of which were of an extraordinary 
size, some being larger than the egg of a goose." All of this 
wealth was subsequently seized by Henry VIII, who at the same 
time ordered the remains of a'Becket to be burned and the ashes 
scattered to the winds. 

By the dissolution of monastaries and religious houses by 
Henry VIII, the possession of 644 convents, 90 colleges, 2,374 
chantries and free chapels, and no hospitals were annexed to the 
crown. According to Burnet, the annual value of this property 
was something over a million and a quarter of pounds sterling, 
besides a vast quantity of plate and jewels. 

It was given out, in order to enlist popular feeling in favor of 
this measure, that it would result in relieving the King's subjects 
of all taxes and services of any kind, and that the revenues should 
be applied to the maintenance of an army of 40,000 men, 3,000 
knights, 60 barons and 40 new earls. Moreover, that a better 
provision should be made for the poor; and for the preaching of 
the Protestant religion. Strype remarks, "Nothing of this came 
to pass, for neither was there provision made for the poor, nor yet 
order set for preaching the gospel, and in fine, a great part of it 
was turned to the upholding of dice-playing, masking and ban 
queting." Of this immense income, only ,£8,000 was devoted to 
the endowment of six new bishopries of Westminster, Oxford, 
Peterborough, Bristol, Chester and Gloucester. Among the in 
numerable monuments, tablets and mural slabs preserved in the 
Cathedral are those of Edward, the Black Prince, who died at the 
Palace of the Archbishop, in Canterbury, 1376, and that of Henry 
IV, son of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, and grandson of Edward 
III. Both of these elegant monuments are in white marble and 
on them are full length effigies of the Black Prince and of Henry 
IV., and of Joan, second wife of Henry IV. and daughter of the 
King of Navarre. 

Every part of Canterbury is worth inspecting by those who have 
any taste for the architectural memorials of the past, but no de- 
scription of them would interest. After a full examination, we 
continued our journey to Chatham, so famous for its dockyards 
and ironclads. The only point at which we stopped between the 
Episcopal City and the "City of Cottages," as Chatham is com- 
monly called, was Faversham, the headquarters of the English 
oyster trade. Though we indulged in a bitter and a few "natives," 
while here, it was not to enjoy the luxuries of the table that we 
made a halt. Gn the contrary, it was to enter the church where 



204 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

once reposed the bones of King Stephen. They are no longer 
here. When the abbeys were dissolved, his corpse, and those of 
his queen and son were exhumed and their contents cast into the 
sea. The bones of sovereigns do not sleep quietly in their resting 
places. Some years ago we stood in front of a plain grey marble 
slab, in front of the high altar of St. Stephen's Church, Caen, in 
Normandy. It was intended to mark the sepulchre of William 
the Conquerer, but not an atom of his body was then beneath it. 

The dreaded Conquerer was himself at last conquered, dying 
as every one knows at the monastery of St. Gervais, Rouen. It 
was a melancholy scene. His eldest son, to whom he had bequeath- 
ed Normandy, was away with the Crusaders. His second son 
William, remained by the side of his dying father only long enough 
to hear himself appointed to the Crown of England, then leaving 
him in his last agony he galloped off to the coast, eager to secure 
his prize. His third son Henry who received his legacy in monev, 
departed likewise to the treasury, and after carefully weighing the 
silver, placed it under lock and key. No sooner had the fatal 
event occurred than nobles, knights, gentlemen, priests, all de- 
camped to look after their own interest and the servants set to 
work to plunder. Meanwhile the body of the late monarch was 
stripped and deserted, till the charity of an obscure individual 
provided for its conveyance to Caen, where the King had ex- 
pressed a wish to be buried. Here his body was refused burial 
till the sum of sixty cents (sous) were paid to a man who claimed 
property in the site of the grave. In 1542 the Bishop of Bayeaux 
caused the grave to be opened and the body of the conquerer was 
found in good preservation, and justified by its appearance the 
reports of Chroniclers respecting his tall statue. During an insur- 
rection in 1572, the grave was violated, the coffin dug up and its 
contents emptied into the street. A. pious priest gathered the 
remains and preserved them in his chamber till a subsequent in- 
surrection when the whole abbey was plundered and all the re- 
mains lost but one thigh bone, which was reinterred and a monu- 
ment raised over it in 1642. During the revolution of 1793 the 
mob rifled the spot and the last fragment of the Great Duke and 
mighty conquerer disappeared. 

The remains of Henry I., who was buried at the Abbey in 
Reading, have likewise disappeared and no man knovveth his 
sephulchre. 

This was true also of the restless and fiery Henry II., who died 
at the castle of Chinon, near the junction of the Vienne and Loire 
in France. The breath was scarcely out of the body of the dead 
man when he was stripped of every rag, his apartments robbed, and 
those who had lately trembled at his word hurried off to make 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 205 

court with his successor. The charity of a neighbor provided a 
winding sheet for the body which was removed for interment to 
the Abbey of Fontevraud, one of the wealthiest ecclesiastical es- 
tablishments in France. Previous to the funeral, the body was 
laid in the Abbey Church when it is said to have shuddered con- 
vulsively at the approach of Richard, an undutiful son. The con- 
querer of Saladin, and hero of a hundred fights, Richard I. was 
also buried here, and Queen Eleanor of Guienne and Isabella d' 
Angouleme the Queen of his brother John. 

In the old Scotch College in the rue Desbrosses St. Victor, Paris, 
were deposited in an urn of bronze gilt the brains of James II. — 
The mob in 1693 broke this urn and the brains contained in it w 
trampled upon the ground. The royal body which was deposited at 
the chapel of the English Benedictines was little less reverenced. 
At the time of the revolution the chapel was used as a prison, and 
among the prisoners was a Mr. Fitzsimons, who witnessed the 
treatment to which the body was subjected and who thus describes 
what he saw : 

"I was a prisoner in Paris, in the convent of the English Bene- 
dictines, in the Rue St. Jacques, during part of the revolution. In 
the year 1793 or 1794 the body of King James II of England was 
in one of the chapels there, where it had been deposited some 
time, under the expectation that it would one day be sent to Eng- 
land for interment in Westminster Abbey. It had never been 
buried. The body was in a wooden coffin, enclosed in a leaden 
one, and that again enclosed in a second wooden one, covered with 
black velvet. While I was a prisoner, the salts- culottes broke open 
the coffins, to get at the lead, to cast into bullets. The body lay 
exposed nearly a whole day. It was swaddled like a mummv, 
bound tight with garters. The sans culottes took out the body, 
which had been embalmed. There was a strong smell of vinegar 
and camphor. The corpse was beautiful and perfect ; the hands 
and nails were very fine; I moved and bent every finger. I never 
saw so fine a set of teeth in my life. A young lady, a fellow-prison- 
er, wished much to have a tooth ; 4 tried to get one out for her, but 
could not, they were so firmly fixed. The feet also were very 
beautiful. The face and cheeks were just as if he were alive. I 
rolled his eyes ; the eye-balls were perfectly firm under my finger. 
The French and English prisoners gave money to the sans-culottes 
for showing the body. They said he was a good sans-culottes, and 
they were going to put him into a hole in the public church yard, 
like other sans-culottes, and he was carried away, but where the 
body was thrown I never heard." George IV tried all in his power 
to get tidings of the body, but could not Around the chapel 
were several wax moulds of the face hung up, made probably at 



(52) 



206 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

the time of the King's death, and the corpse was very like them. 
The body had been originally kept at the palace of St Germains, 
when it was brought to the convent of the Benedictines. Mr. 
Porter, the prior, was a prisoner at the time in his own convent. 

During the French Revolution the mob further signalized their 
hatred of Royalty by scattering the ashes of the dead Kings 
and mutilating their Statues. The tombs of the French Kings 
buried at St. Denis were opened by the revolutionists and their 
contents emptied into the neighboring ditches. It was only in T813 
when some workmen were engage.d in repairing the vaults at 
Windsor that they accidentally came upon the coffin of Charles I. 
A doubtful point of history was then cleared up. for the contents of 
the plain leaden coffin, on which was inscribed in large legible 
character, "King Charles, 1648," were examined in the presence of 
the Prince Regent, (George IV..) Sir Henry Halford, Sir Henry 
Peyton, and others. Within the leaden coffin was one of wood, 
very much decayed, in which, carefully wrapped in cloth, was the 
body. The skin of the face was found dark and discolored, the 
forehead and temples had lost little or nothing of their muscular 
substance ; the cartilege of the nose was gone ; the left eye was 
open and full in the first moment of its exposure, though it van- 
ished almost immediately, and the pointed beard so characteristic 
of the period of his reign was perfect. The strong resemblance 
of the face to that of Charles I on the coins, busts, and especially 
the likenesses of Vandyke left no doubt as to its identity. Upon 
removing the bandage, the head was found to be loose and was 
held up to view. It bore evidence of having been severed by a 
heavy blow, inflicted with a sharp instrument. 

Nothing is known of the resting place of Lord Protector, Crom- 
well. After his State funeral and burial at Westminster, his corpse 
was disinterred and treated with indignity. His head was exposed 
from the top of Westminster hall, while his body hung from the 
gallows in Tyburn. After remaining sometime in these positions 
they were cast into a hole, but no one knows the locality of it, 
though some learned antiquarian's suppose it was near Red Lion 
Square, London. 

The ill-fate attending royal races — their vicissitudes in life-may 
be further illustrated by two instances, furnished by the successors 
of Charlemagne in France and the Jameses in England. The son 
of Charlemagne, Louis de Babonnaire, died for want of food, in 
consequence of a superstitious panic. His successor, Charles the 
Bald, was poisoned by his physician. Charles' son, Louis the 
Stutterer, was also poisoned. Charles, king of Aquitaine, brother 
of the Stutterer, met his death by a blow on the head from a gen- 
tleman he was endeavoring by way of frolic to terrify. Louis III, 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 207 

successor to the Stutterer, a gallant Prince, having cast his eyes 
upon a handsome girl, the daughter of a citizen named Gormand, 
as he was riding through the streets of Tours, pursued her in- 
stantly. The terrified girl took refuge in a house, and the king, 
thinking more of her charms than the size of the gateway, at- 
tempted to force his horse after her, hut broke his back and died 
on the spot. He was succeeded by his son, Carloman, who fell by 
an ill directed spear, thrown by one of his own servants at a wild 
boar, although the dying Prince had the generosity to charge the 
beast with his death. Charts the Fat perished of want, grief and 
poison altogether. His successor, Charles, the Simple, died in 
prison of penury and despair. Louis the Stranger, his successor, 
was killed while hunting. Lotharius and Louis V, the two best 
kings of the race of Charlemagne, were both poisoned by their 
wives, to whose little indiscretions they had paid too much at- 
tention. Of the whole line, after a revolution of 230 years, there 
now remained one, Charles, Duke of Lorraine, and he, after a 
struggle in defense of his rights against the ambitious and active 
Capet, sunk beneath the fortune of his antagonist and ended his 
days in a lonely prison. 

In England the Stuarts were steadily unfortunate. 

Robert the III broke his heart because his eldest son was starved 
to death, and his youngest, James, made a prisoner. James I, after 
.having beheaded three of his nearest kindred, was assassinated 
by his own uncle, who was tortured to death for it. James II was 
slain by the bursting of a piece of ordnance. James III, when 
flying from battle, was thrown from his horse and murdered in a 
cottage, into which he had been carried for assistance. James IV 
fell in Flodden Field. James V died of grief for the wilful ruin of 
his army at Solway Moss. Henry, Lord Darnley, was assassinated 
and then blown up in his palace. Mary was beheaded in England. 
James I and James VI are supposed to have been poisoned by 
Buckingham. Charles I was beheaded. Charles II was for many 
years an exile. James II lost his crown and died in banishment. 
Anne, after a glorious reign, died of a broken heart, occasioned by 
the quarrels of her favored servants. The posterity of James II 
have remained wretched wanderers in a foreign land. 

We have again wandered a long way out of our path and we 
are not quite sure that our reader takes as much pleasure as we do 
in these flights. But what reader is satisfied to jog on forever in 
the same beaten track. It is usually, if not universally the case, 
that in what one reads and what one hears, one expects to find 
something with which one was formerly unacquainted. If this 
reasonable expectation is disappointed, and an author goes plod- 
ding on indulging in a trifling minuteness of narration, in prolix 



208 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

descriptions and an abundance of common places, he is sure to 
fill the reader with languor and disgust. Napoleon I II, at a period 
of excitement in France, gave utterence to the sententious remark : 
"For order I will be responsible" We wish we could say with 
equal confidence, "For preserving our reader from languor and 
disgust we will be responsible." In any event the reader shall not 
be cloyed with trite and obvious thoughts as if he had no appre- 
hension of his own. Be it our object to give him something on 
which to exercise his reason and entertain his fancy. His atten- 
tion will be thus repaid and he will not only excuse but delight, as 
we do, in those excursions through the regions ol the past, 
which interrupt our narrative, but which do not long prevent our 
returning to the starting point. Whether we pursue beaten paths 
or give reins to imagination we seek to be plain, and invariably, as 
brief as is consistent with perspicuity, though this is not always the 
best policy, as it cannot be dissembled, that, with inattentive read- 
ers, darkness frequently passes for depth. 

In the next succeeding chapter, clearing our brain from all fumes 
of fancy, we shall resume our narrative, and conduct the reader — 
we flatter. ourselves he does not belong to the inattentive class- 
more rapidly forward on the journey from the sea coast to the 
interior. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

CHATHAM — !• AVERSHAM — ROCHES'] EK — SIR FRANCIS DOYLE — 
GADS HILL— COBHAM HALL — MSS. LETTERS OF SIR JOHN PEYTON, 
GOVERNOR OF THE TOWER AND OF THE ISLAND OL JERSEY — 
EDMOND BE ALES — THE REFORMATION. 



Emerging from the church at Faversham we saw the train ap- 
proaching, the train by which we expected to reach Chatham. 
Hurrying to the station and stepping into a carriage we were 
greeted with glad surprise by one of our earliest and best Eng- 
lish friends. Sir P'rancis Hastings Doyle, professor of poetry at 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 209 

Oxford, who was returning to London from a jaunt in France. 
Sir Francis was an intimate friend of Osmond Priaulx, at whose 
house we first met him at dinner in 1862, and where we had been 
in the habit of meeting him under the same pleasant circum- 
stances, every Thursday, for years. He was one of a small co- 
terie of literary and political celebrities who assembled every week 
at each others houses. 

Many of them are dead, some are superannuated and others 
have retired from public employments. How melancholy it is to 
travel from one's country, and to make acquaintance with esti- 
mable men abroad, whom we are never to see again. How rapid 
a career is human life ! Happy the man who has it in his power 
to employ it in doing good. Sir Francis Doyle whom we now 
met with, so unexpectedly, is a thoroughly companionable and 
delightful man — not only a poet, but a distinguished poet. Fie 
writes with taste, abounds in elegance, wholly reproves the spas- 
modic efforts of the metrical manipulators of the age, adhering to 
nature in a pure and unaffected style, replete with chaste and 
classic diction. His impassioned thought is elucidated and en- 
nobled in all the sparkling imagery of truly poetic and romantic 
inspiration. He is plain and unassuming in manner and attire, 
would pass very well for one of the squirearchy, is fond of the 
chase and the pursuits of the country gentleman. He has written 
and published a good deal of poetry and some lectures but they 
have acquired no general popularity. He often referred in a 
humorous way to their failure to attract public attention, and 
said : "I don't know why it is ; people don't care to read what I 
write." It was not difficult for us to see that he attributed this 
indifference to the bad taste of the reading public. Though he 
took a rather saturine view of his position with the public, we s 
discovered that no one was more favorably regarded by the liter- 
ary world — his laurels were green, however conscious' he was of 
it, though his locks were gray. Sir Francis Doyle, in his de- 
meanor and personal appearance, is considerably above the com- 
mon order, and is altogether a handsome and noble looking man. 
Among the choice spirits in this particular coterie was the great 
novelist Thackeray, but we never happened to meet him at on 
the reunions. On one occasion, shortly after our arrival in Lon- 
don in 1862. we received an invitation from Edwin de Leon, now 
(1880) of Washington City, formerly United States Consul Gen- 
eral in Egypt, to meet Thackeray at dinner. A previous engage- 
ment prevented our acceptance, and we thus lost the opportunity 
of meeting that eminent man of letters. He was soon afterwards 
struck down with disease, and to the inexpressible grief of a wide 
circle of personal friends, and to all generous minds and lovers of 



(53) 



2IO RAMBLING KEMINISCENSES. 

literature, sunk into a premature grave. Would that it were in 
our power to say something to do honor to the memory of that 
great and worthy man — this is the best return posterity can make 
them for their noble works and virtuous principles. 

To return : little opportunity was afforded us on this occasion 
of enjoying the society of Sir Francis Doyle. The train soon drew 
up at the Chatham station, where, after bidding adieu to ou; dis- 
tinguished friend, we descended to have a look at the dockyards 
and some of those modern ironclads which have superceded En- 
gland's wooden walls. 

Chatham, which possesses considerable claims to antiquity, is 
one of those industrious manufacturing centres too much occupied 
with the work of the present to have time to talk of its ancestors. 
To all not specially concerned in shipbuilding it is the most unin- 
teresting of towns, consisting of a vast collection of dreary, mono- 
tonous looking cottages, in which are crowded a working popula- 
tion of fifty thousand. This mass of human beings owes its sup- 
port entirely to the government expenditures at this point. No one 
lives in Chatham unless employed in the great naval and military 
establishments. We quickly determined to "do" Chatham in the 
shortest possible space of time, and went to work energetically to 
see the sights, the sooner to shake the dust of the town from our 
feet. 

A naval station has existed at Chatham since the days of Eliza- 
beth, and by degrees it has grown into one of the first class En- 
glish naval arsenals and dockyards. Especially has Chatham as 
sumed importance since the introduction of ironclads, the appli- 
ances for building them here being somewhat peculiar to the place. 
Upon applying to be admitted, we found it necessary to enter in 
a book kept for the purpose, our name, profession and nationali 
ty. After this we were conducted to an office, where the order of 
admission was made out, and presented to a guide who preceded 
to conduct us through the establishment. 

The dockyard extends about a mile and a half on the river, and 
consists of wet docks for repairing ships, an immense tidal basin, 
seven covered slips on which to build ships, a mast house, a boat 
house, with a store of ship boats, a rope house, in which cables, 
hawsers and other kinds ot ropes are made, a store-house, a sail- 
loft, two mast ponds, workshops containing duplicates of Brunei's 
block-making machinery, a smithery with forty forges, giving out 
their fierce heat, and steam hammers ol 50 cwt. falling on masses 
of glowing iron ; hydraulic presses for bending thick plates for 
ironclads, a timber pond with a submarine canal for floating in 
timber from the river Medway. sawing mills with numerous verti- 
cal and circular saws, metal mills for making copper bolts, ship 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 211 

sheeting, and order articles in metal, and various other buildings 
necessary for the construction of great wooden and iron warships. 
To describe these shops and the progress would require a volume. 

More extensive than the dockyards are the military establish- 
ments which cover an immense area of ground. There are bar- 
racks for 5,000 infantry, constantly occupied by v invalids from India 
and the colonies ; extensive artillery barracks, with stabling for 
their horses ; barracks for a corps of the Royal Engineers and for 
the school of Military Engineering, which is established in the sub- 
urbs and designed for teaching officers all that concerns siege op- 
erations and defence work. Likewise a military prison, where 
from three to four thousand criminals are confined, and various 
hospitals and other buildings connected with these numerous estab- 
lishments. The whole stretch no less than two miles along the 
Medway and further into the interior. There is nothing peculiar 
about them which would justify a particular description. We were 
much gratified by a visit to the soldier's institute, an admirable 
place, in which soldiers can enjoy the advantages of a good library 
and news room, chess and bagatelle tables, fives and tennis court. 
The building is well warmed, lighted and ventilated. A subscrip- 
tion ol~4d. per month is demanded, the institute being a private af- 
fair of the soldiers, kept up by contributions, and more than 3*000 
soldiers are members of it. 

Adjoining Chatham, and to a stranger apparently forming the 
more aristocratic or west end of it, is the quaint old city of Roch- 
ester, so famous for its ancient cathedral, founded in the eleventh 
century, the chancel choir and trancept of which were added in 
1230 by a noble and wealthy gentleman, Sir William de Hooe, of 
the Hundred of Hooe, in the Isle of Grain in Kent, and the exten- 
sive ruins of its grand old feudal castle, the battlements of which 
are now 104 feet from the ground. Though we visited every spot 
and fragment of this venerable monument of antiquity with the 
liveliest interest, any description of it would but fatigue. The walks 
around it are sequestered and pleasing and altogether calculated 
to raise our admiration and give a more perfect idea of this beau- 
tiful specimen of an ancient fortification, but viewing it we could 
but exclaim, "sad are the ruthless ravages of time." 

We availed ourselves of the opportunity while in Chatham to 
walk as far as Gad's Hill, so notorious in old times as a haunt ot 
tramps, rogues, vagabonds, and all kinds of desperate and aban- 
doned characters. It was here that Shakespeare places the scene 
of one of the pranks of Falstaff, Prince Hal, Burdolph and their 
companions. On entering the Inn standing on the summit of the 
hill and intended to perpetuate the fame of the fat knight, ^ve saw 
hanging on the wall a likeness of Sir John, whose lips seemed to 



212 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

move with the words, "Shall I not take mine ease in mine inn." 
The proprietor of this inn is a man of education above his station 
and conversed with sense and judgment upon ' the subject of 
Shakespeare's plays and the writings of his neighbor, Charles 
Dickens, whose home is not more than a hundred yards from the 
Inn upon the opposite side of the road. He told us that Dickens 
was then at home, at least he had seen him the evening beiore, 
and that he was always glad to see strangers. We had not in- 
tended calling upon the popular novelist. While admiring his 
genius we detested his character. All the world knows that he 
was a snob, and it is generally conceded that he was a drunkard 
and an adulterer. Curiosity, however, seemed to take possession 
of us, and in a moment of freak we formed a hasty resolution to 
look in upon him. Proceeding at once to the entrance of his 
grounds, we were met by a decidedly inhospitable growl, and saw 
in large letters across the gate, "Beware of the dog." A servant 
who answered our vigorous pull at the bell protected us from the 
idiotic looking brute who guarded the premises of '"boz," and con 
ducted us to the house. From her we learned that Dickens had 
gone to London a few hours before, and that the only occupants 
of the house at the moment were a son and daughter. Without 
stopping to see them we returned to the public house, and settling 
our bill, left by a lane passing Dickens' house, to make our visit 
to Cobham Hall. From this lane running across Gad's Hall, we 
saw stretching before us at a distance of three miles, the wooded 
hills and plains of this magnificent park. After passing through a 
pretty and highly cultivated country where many parties were en- 
gaged gathering the ripe hops, we arrived at the park enclosure, 
and crossing a platform entered the grounds by a foot path con- 
ducting almost directly to the hall. Wandering through the arbor 
walks of this elysian wilderness, it seemed like a land of enchant- 
ment. So artfully had the walks been planned, that they seemed 
interminable, and the grounds without limit. The beautiful and 
the vast blended together. In a central situation, sparkling in 
the sunshine, was a serpentine lake, upon which swans of snowy 
whiteness floated, and towards which the drooping trees bent their 
branches. Herds of deer fed upon the green savannahs blazing 
in the sunshine. 

Arriving at the Hall, one of the finest old residences in this part 
of England, and always thrown open to thepublic when the family 
is absent, as was now the case, we were ushered into the private 
apartments and conducted through them by one of the servants 
who acted as guide. This place had been in the Cobham family 
for many years previous to the 16th century, and in 1559 Queen 
Elizabeth was entertained here in great magnificence. Shortly 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 21 3 

after 1603 when Sir Walter Raleigh was dastardly betrayed by 
Lord Henry Cobham, who was himself long confined like Ralek-b 
in the Tower, and finally beheaded, the estate was confiscated We 
may remark en passant that at the time of Raleigh's imprisonment 
Sir John Peyton, of Doddington, who had been a member of 
Queen Elizabeth's Privy Council, was governor of the Tower — 
Among the curious MSS letters of Sir John now in the British Mu- 
seum, presented to the national library of Great Britain by George 
III, are many letters written by Sir John to Robert Cecil, Earl of 
Salisbury, who was sole secretary of State in 1603. While the au- 
thor was in England he enjoyed the privilege of a reader's ticket 
to the library, and time and again spent a few days searching 
among this vast collection. The following are copies of two of Sir 
John Peyton's letters to the Earl of Salisbury, in which he alludes 
to some of the State prisoners. And in the house of this very Earl 
of Salisbury we were now examining the objects of interest and 
calling up the associations of the past. 

SIR JOHN PEYTON TO THE EARL OF SALISBURY. 

r>. ,, rj ,, Tower, July 21st, 1603. 

Right Honorable, 

My very good Lord .•—" According to y'r L'dships directions I 
related unto my Lord Cobham. what course was best for him as 
his case now standeth, he being under a Kings justice, that is com- 
posed of all mercy. I urged him to use no manner of reservation 
which course he vowed to God to hold in his relation, which \ 
send enclosed to your L'dship as required. 

'•Sir Walter Rawley standeth still upon bis innocence, but with 
a mind the most dejected that I ever saw. 

"My Lord Grey continueth in the same manner he did He 
is desirous to write to His Majesty, which I in good warmth de- 
nied, until I might undei stand his Majesty's pleasure. Then he 
entreated me to permit him to write to your L'dship, whereupon 
I assented, and his letter I send enclosed. 

"In all these actions God has shown a protecting providence 
over our good King and the State, wherein my heart rejoiceth.— 
And so I most humbly take my leave." 

Your Lordships servant &c 

JOHN PEYTON, 

Lieutenant of the Tower. 

SAME TO SAME. 

Right Honorable, 

My very good Lord.—"\ must confess that since my attendance 

(54) 



214 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

on y'r L'dship I have been more than gratified, by your noble pas- 
sion towards my son and honorable letters to myself which doth 
double both our desires to do your service, beseaching y'r L'dship 
to command me as one in whom your Lordshnphath had and ever 
may have confidence. The letters directed to Lord Gray were 
brought by a soldier once of the lower countries. 

"I also send your Lordship a letter for my lord Cobham, who 
in all his speech doth in no way spare himself. I never saw so 
strange a dejected mind as in Sir Walter Rawley. I am exceed- 
ingly cumbered with him ; five or six times a day he sendeth for 
me in such passions as I see his fortitude is impotent to support 
his grief. Thus I take my leave. 

Your Lordships ever &c., 

JOHN PEYTON. 

Tower, this 23 July, 1603. 

After the confiscation of the estate of the Cobhams, it became 
the property of the Duke of Lennox, who had the honor of enter- 
taining Charles I. and Henrietta Maria, in the Hall. During the 
revolution and the Republic under Cromwell, the property was 
despoiled by the Roundheads, and after the restoration became 
the property of the Darnleys, and so continues. Though many of 
the rooms have been modernized there is a great deal of the Old 
World grandeur about Cobham Hall. The principal feature is 
the very extensive and select gallery of paintings, a large portion 
of them by the old masters. 

From the Hall we crossed the Park to the village, visiting lime 
tree avenue, which is 3000 feet long, and the Mansoleum, which 
was built in 1782 for use as a tomb. In every part of the park 
the scenery is magnificent and the lime, cedar and oaks of majestic 
size and picturesque arrangement. Slowly and silently we wand- 
ered over the grassy lawns and through the solemn groves, anon 
lingering by the way to gaze a last farewell on that hoary and 
time-honored pile, to cast a parting glance on the glittering towers 
and the lovely scenery surrounding them, pensively musing as we 
walked along of the deep and bitter feelings that occupied the 
bosom of the last of the Cobham race, when he took a last adieu 

[Note. — Sir Edward Burke says on p. 412 of his Extinct Baronetcies that "Sir 
John Peyton, governor of the Tower, temp. Elizabeth, and of the Queens 
privy council ; afterwards in the reign of James I. governor of the Island of 
jersey and Guernsey, to which office he succeeded Sir Walter Raleigh, was in 
the words of an old writer "educated after the politest manner of the age he 
lived in, by serving in the wars of Flanders under the most able and experien- 
ced soldiers and politicians of that time. Amidst the sunshine of a court and 
the affluences of a large fortune, his conduct was so regular and temperate that 
his life was prolonged to the age of ninety-nine years, in so much health and 
vigor that he is said to have rode hunting three or four days before his death."] 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 215 

of the hall of his ancestors and was conducted a prisoner to the 
Tower, which he was destined to leave only for the block.* 

The only object of interest in the village is the church, which 
contains thirteen monumental brasses of the Cobham family, which 
are generally esteemed the finest things of the kind in England. 
Some of them are five centuries old. 

Leaving the church we returned to Rochester, arriving there at 
an opportune moment for witnessing some of the performances of 
that most remarkable of all the beasts in the European menagerie, 
the British lion. The British lion is not one of those unfortunate, 
mangy creatures of African descent, kept at Zoological Gardens, 
or carried about the country in a wooden box to amuse the people, 
but a living, two-legged animal of indigenous growth. He may 
be a literary lion, or a political lion-- a Conservative or a Reform- 
ing lion, or belong to some other species too numerous to par- 
ticuralize. To whatever species he belongs he creates a great 
sensation whenever he goes to a public meeting, as on this oc- 
casion, or a public dinner— the people always go to hear the lion 
roar, or to see the lion feed. Though very unlike the African lion 
in appearance, his supremacy among beasts is acknowledged. — 
Whether he roars from the pulpit, the platform, or the printing 
office, his voice is law. Mis mouth is as large and his lungs as 
strong as those of the African lion, and hence the British lion has 
long been regarded as the mouth-piece of the people, the exponent 
of popular opinion. The specimen 1 saw on this occasion was the 
Reforming lion, in the person of Mr. Edmond Beales, M. A., who 
was hereto roar to a meeting of the Reform League, to denounce 
the injustice to which the British were subjected under their consti- 
tion and laws, and the necessity for radical change. Mr. Bright is 
the great reforming lion of the land, who stands before the people 
in awful majesty as the peculiar champion of their rights and re- 
dresser of their wrongs, but much of his work is done by young- 
cubs who beat the bushes and scour the plains, starting up the 
game, eventually to be brought down and secured by the King 
beast. Mr. Beales, M. A., most decidedly belongs to the breed 
of cub lions. After listening some time to the music of his voice, 
we were reluctantly brought to the conclusion that the British lion 
is not always a remarkably wise beast — wise beasts are less obtru- 
sive and make considerable less noise. 

We cannot afford space to report the roar of the lion of the 
species of Mr Beales, M A. It is enough to say that he has been 



*Lord Cobham was hung in chains and burnt in London in 1407. Warpolc 
speaks of him as a man whose virtues made him a reformer, whose valor made 
him a martyr, whose martyrdom made him an enthusiast. His ready wit and 
brave spirit appeared to great advantage on his trial. 



2l6 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

classified as one of the promising lions, not promising much in 
himself, but to his friends. No rational human being would 
ever suppose Mr. Beales capable of carrying out his benevolent 
purposes towards mankind in general or the British people in par- 
ticular. A politician who, like Mr. Beales, promises everything to 
everybody is not in the way of becoming as distinguished for 
deeds as words. The amicable role played by this demagogue, 
has, however, given him an unbounded personal popularity, and 
he exercises an immense influence. His power is confined to those 
however, who have no influence, namely : the ignorant classes, 
whom he easily deludes, and really, therefore, amounts to nothing, 
at least in so far as the public is concerned. He makes it ot some 
value to himself, for Beales is a selfish lion in the way of securing 
fees in the petty courts where he practices and expounds what he 
calls the law, and in obtaining small offices, for which he has a 
great inclination and of which he has held many, in which he has 
acquired notoriety — not good fame. Such lions as Mr. Beales, do 
not present a fair type of the British animal. John Bright, M. P., 
is of the genuine British genius ; it is such as he whose whisper is 
as loud as a thunder clap and who argue with strong teeth and 
sharp talons. It is this type which has been chosen as one of the 
supporters of the Royal arms. As such he is intended to repre- 
sent the popular opinion of the country, and when he roars and 
lashes his tail, kings and statesmen know he must not be trifled 
with. He is, as we have said, not a particularly wise beast. He 
does not always discriminate rightly between the false and the 
true. When Sampson was sent of God to be the deliverer of his 
brethren, a lion came roaring against him at the first setting out. 
So when, in the present day, a man gets a special mission to de- 
liver mankind from some chain of superstition or ignorance, pop- 
ular opinion is sure to come roaring against him at first ; but, as 
Sampson rent the lion as if he were a kid, so the power and majesty 
of truth, in the end, overcomes popular opinion, and effectually 
stops his roaring. Truth is stronger than a lion, and the triumph 
of truth is sweeter than honey For as Sampson, on his return, 
found a honev-comb in the jaws of the lion, so the herald of truth, 
having overcome the opposition of popular opinion, derives bread 
from the eater and sweetness from his strength, and the jaws and 
tongue of the people henceforward flow with honey in his praise. 
Nothing is truer than that in the long run truth will overcome 
error. To time, therefore, may be safely left the solution of those 
grave problems in government with which Mr. Beales so rashly 
tampers. We heard with pain the leveling principles of this dem- 
agogue, having always believed that the greater the rewards you 
give to virtue the better men you will get to contend for them. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 217 

Mr. Beales has given conclusive evidence of his character, or 
rather want of character. Having made himself troublesome, if 
not a dangerous man, in order to quiet him he was appointed to a 
judgeship in 1870, and ever since has been as silent as the grave. 
Enjoying the honors and emoluments of the judicial station, this 
reforming lion no longer roars. Keen as are his optics he no 
longer sees any defects in the British Constitution ; he only sees a 
stupid and ignorant people crying out about their wrongs, a people 
whom he complacently declares have only rights. This is his 
"official opinion." No longer a reformer, the learned judge rivals 
the late Earl of Ellenborough in his admiration of English institu- 
tions, as at once the pride, the strength and the glory of the 
Fatherland. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



SEVENOAKS — MONTREAL — THE AMHERSTS— KNOLE CASTLE — 
SHOWMEN — TONBRIDGE WELLS — BATTLE ABBEY — RETURN TO 
LONDON. 



A short trip brought us to the old county town of Sevenoaks, 
situated in one of the loveliest parts of Kent. Like many English 
towns, Sevenoaks is remarkable for the clean and tidy air which 
pervades every part of it. In other respects it is in itself not par- 
ticularly noteworthy, yet as one of these old places recalling our 
forefathers it possesses many charms. There are few of us who 
do not love to linger among the dwelling places of our ancestors, 
which, although now knowing them no more, appear still to retain 
a portion of their spirit and exhibit traces of their true and kindly 
nature. The country surrounding Sevenoaks is unsurpassed for 
beauty and variety of scenery, and has long been a favorite retreat 
for city people. During some brief interlude in the monotonous 
round of their busy lives, it is not only pleasant to steal from the 
'mad'ning crowds' ignoble strife' to refresh their minds and bodies 



S5) 



2l8 RAMBLING REM1NISCENSES. 

by a visit to the country, but the pleasant and holy memories of 
the good old days, doubtless renovates their jaded spirits. 

Some of the finest mansions in England are situated in what 
may be called the Sevenoaks neighborhood. One of these, which 
possessed special interest to us, is the old baronial residence of the 
ancient family of the Amhersts, called "Montreal." A pleasant 
walk through cornfields, corpses, and shady lanes conducted our 
pedestrian party to Montreal It was built by Sir Jeffrey Am- 
herst,* in commemoration of his glorious successes in America, 
upon the site of an old manor house, originally erected during the 
Saxon era. When approached, its venerable stone front is seen 
from amidst a grove of splendid old trees. 

The grounds and gardens attached to Montreal are not exten- 
sive, but the house is a handsome structure. In the park there is 
an obelisk to commemorate, as the inscription says "the providen- 
tial and happy meeting of three brothers, on the 25th of January, 
1704, after six years of glorious war, in which the three were suc- 
cessfully engaged." On the other side it runs as follows ; "Ded- 
icated to that most noble statesman, during whose administration 
Cape Breton and Canada were conquered, and from whose influ- 
ence the British Arms derived a degree of lustre unparalleled in 
the past ages." 

The following record of the victories achieved in the far West, 
is also inscribed upon it : 

u Louisburg surrendered, and six French battalions prisoners of 
war. 26th July, 1758. 

Niagara surrendered, 25th July, 1758. 

Ticonderago taken possession of 26th July, 1759. 

Crown Point taken possession of 4th August, 1759. 

Quebec Capitulated 18th September, 1759. 

Fort Levi surrendered 25th August, 1760. 

Isle au Noix abandoned 28th August, 1760. 

Montreal surrendered, and with it all Canada, and ten French 
battalions layed down their arms, 6th of September, 1760. 

St. Johns, Newfoundland, retaken 18th September, 1760." 

The most interesting objects, however, in the vicinity of Seven- 
oaks, are Knole Castle and Park, now the property and residence 
of Earl Amherst — Lord Delaware. It was originally the property 
of the Sackvilles. Lords Buck hurst, then of the Earls and Dukes 
oi Dorset and continued in the latter family till 1825, when it was 

*Jeffrey, Lord Amherst, was born in 17 17, entered the army 1 73 1. served un- 
der the Duke of Cumberland 1 74 1, Colonel in 1756, Major-General in 1758, 
served in America against France 1758, Commander-in-Chief in Canada 1758- 
60, Governor of Virginia 1763 and Governor of Guernsey 1770, Lieut-General 
1 77-, created Lord Amherst of Montreal 1788, died 1797. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



19 



inherited by the present, which is a collateral branch of the family 
of Thomas Sackville, first Earl of Dorset. 

The Castle stands in a park of 1,000 acres, dotted over with 
fine elms and large oaks. Everything about this old domain is so 
venerable, and at the same time so poetical, that in pacing its 
grassy glades, one almost expects to encounter the nymphs ar.d 
satyrs once believed to inhabit its groves. What this splendid 
park was two centuries ago, it is to day. No modern innovations 
or improvements have impaired its sylvan beauty and it stands 
preeminent amid the romantic nooks of Kent. Occupying an 
eminence, as its name implies, the building covers 31 acres of 
ground, the principal portion of which is of the 15th and 16th 
centuries, though parts are much older. It is considered by arch- 
aeologists among the most interesting, as it is certainly one of the 
most famous of English baronial mansions. Grey, stern and ma- 
jestic, it is suggestive of those times when might made right, and 
looks as if any deed of violence might have been committed under 
the shelter of its stout walls. It was once surrounded by a deep 
fosse and lofty vellum, but these have long since disappeared, and 
a well laid out garden occupies their places, The spot which once 
echoed to the imperious tread of the mailed Baron and his half 
savage retainers, is now covered with innocent flowers, which send 
up their offerings of sweet incense. Long occupied by different 
families as a residence, no part of the buildings, interior or exterior, 
has been modernized, but are preserved in the quaint old style in 
which they were originally built. It is remarkable for numerous 
and extensive subterraneous cavities and vaults, which undermine 
the gardens and are said to extend in some directions two miles. 
The furniture with which it was supplied, with the additions of 
subsequent periods, is also retained. Among this is the Chair of 
State which was occupied by James I, when on his visit to Knoie 
in 1610. 

Passing, into the "Stone Court," we enter the "Great Hall" 
where is preserved the massive oak table at which in accordance 
with ancient custom, the domestics were wont to dine in the pres- 
ence of their Lord. The fire place in the Hall is of the requisite 
capacity for roasting a whole bullock, the hospitable form in which 
the roast beef of old England was served up on Ljrand occasions 
by the great Barons. The hall is hung with paintings and old ar- 
mor, weapons of war and the chase, etc. 

From the great hall we were shown successively into the Brown 
gallery, Lady Betty Germain's rooms, the billiard room, the ball 
room, the chapel, the cartoon room, the King's bed room, the din- 
ing room, &c, in all of which there are many fine paintings, curi- 
ous pieces of antique furniture, tapestry, and other objects of art. 



2 20 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

The ceilings and stair cases are alike painted in fresco, and we are 
glad to say not by Verrio. The whole atmosphere of the place is 
impregnated with the odour of a bye gone age, and calls back many 
charming historical associations of our fatherland. 

Among the numerous portraits, many taken from life, we par- 
ticularly observed a full length portrait of James I, which well ex- 
presses in its contracted features, the narrow and pedantic nature 
of his mind ; one of Sir Kenelm Digby, the resolute seeker of the' 
Philosopher's stone ; another of Philip II, the haughty and bigot- 
ed projector of the Invincible Armada ; others of Beaumont, 
Fletcher, Shakespeare, Goldsmith, Johnson. Waller, Congreve, 
Cromwell, &c, &c, The portraits are by (Gainsborough, Kneller 
Jansens, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and other native and foreign ar- 
tists, who vied with each other in the glories of the pencil. In the 
crimson drawing room is the original of that famous painting of 
Count Ugolina in the prison at Pisa. The story is too well known 
to be repeated here, but the stern features of the Count, tortured 
by the pangs of'hunger, recall it to our mind in all its intensity. 

The most curious and interesting room of the mansion is that 
prepared for James I, and which is called the King's bed room. — 
On the wall in well wrought tapestry is told the story of Nebuch- 
adnezzer. The bed is hung with gold and silver tissues, lined 
with rose colored satin and is embroidered with threads of the 
same precious metals. The toilet service, wash-hand stands, tables 
mirrors, etc. are all of massive silver. Such were the arrangements 
made by a fawning subject to entertain the King that "thrift might 
follow fawning." Our visit to Knole recalled Dr. Johnson's remark 
when visiting Luton Hooe, [to Boswell. "Sir," said Johnson of 
Lord Bute's home, "this is one of the places I do not regret having 
come to see. It is a very stately place, indeed; in the house mag 
nificence is not confined to convenience, nor convenience to mag- 
nificence. The library is very splendid; the dignity of the room 
is very great ; and the quantity of pictures is beyond expectation, 
beyond hope." 

After spending two days studying the castle and its art treas- 
ures, we turned our attention to the park which contains some- 
thing over a thousand acres and many romantic scenes of hang- 
ing woods and green valleys. 

One day while wandering amidst these scenes we entered a 
grassy ravine down which a saucy, gossipping brook babbled and 
sparkled half in sunlight and half in shade. The voice of the dash- 
ing waters deadened all other sounds, and it was nol until we had 
passed out of the park and were almost in the centre of the odd 
scene we are about to describe, that we were aware of having in- 
truded upon a convocation which was probably intended to be 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 221 

secret. At a point near the opening of the ravine, the brook had 
expanded into a wide shallow pool, some fifty yards in diameter. 
The water was surrounded by a tract of waste land covered with 
moss and shaded by fine oak and beech trees, the survivors of an 
ancient forest. Their trunks were vast in girth and were covered 
with mosses and whitening canker stains. These old monarchs 
of the wood had assumed all the crooked, deformed and fantastic 
shapes which betoken age and decay. Under their wide spread- 
ing branches had encamped a colony of some forty persons, men, 
women and children. the heavy growth of timber in the. Park 
protected them from view on one side and a range of hills covered 
with furge seoarated them from the highway on the other. A 
numberof carts covered with canvass, a load of dirty planks, a 
couple of rickerty old vans, or rather wooden houses on wheels, 
furnished with doors, windows and chimnies, a monster puppet 
show and a couple of Punch and Judy rostrums, had all been 
pitched down at random upon the ground by their respective 
owners, the several owners having squatted their families and their 
properties in the most convenient sites. The succulent grass was 
being cropped by a cohort of half starved donkeys at the water's 
edge", and here and there a spavined horse burrowed beneath the 
moss in search of more savory diet. On top of the pile of plank 
was a row of small doos of the poodle breed, with their hinder 
quarters shorn to the skin, Some had undergone the ceremony 
of ablution and were shivering with cold, while others, anticipating 
their turn, shivered from sympathy. Near the wagon an old wo- 
man smoking a short pipe, was busy washing in an iron pot the 
parti colored jackets which formed the dramatic costumes of the 
shivering canine performers. By her side was a second female 
plying the needleand thread in behalf of the poodles, in repairing 
their suits. The rest of the company almost defies description, 
and presented a spectacle which can scarcely be paralleled in the 
whole experience of civilization. One and all they had come here 
to make of it a '•washing day," and at this particular crisis v 
doing business with ludicrous energy and enthusiasm. The pool 
was The common wash tub in which men and women were stand- 
ing up to their knees, and rapidly going through those familiar 
evolutions necessary to the purification of linen. Every possible 
rag which decency would allow them to dispense with, had been 
cast off by the entire party, and consigned to the wash ; and all 
were undergoing the cleansing process, some with soap, which 
seemed to be a scarce article, and others with a soponaceous clay, 
found in many parts of England and well known to persons who 
lead a vagabond life. At the point where the pool overflowed and 
the waters went rippling down the ravine, a number of calico gowns 

(56) 



222 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

too worn to stand the rough handling of the washers, had been 
pegged fast to the hank, under the water, to derive what benefit 
they might from a swill. Some vestiges of shirts and spotted 
neck-ties bore them company, and a boy divested of all covering 
but a shirt, stood knee deep in the water to intercept any that 
might part from their moorings. The drying was accomplished 
by women on shore, who spread the articles on the furze bushes or 
hung them from ropes, running from one van to another. 

The most prominent and remarkable of these washers was a tall 
sallow-faced, intellectual person, with a black beard reaching down 
to his breast. The spectacle he presented as he soaped and rub- 
bed and smoothed on his long lean arm what seemed to be the re- 
mains of a lady's lawn collar, was decidedly grotesque and inhar- 
monious. He pursued his work with a gravity which contrasted 
strongly with the frivolity of his occupation, but no one seemed 
conscious that there was anything ridiculous or incongruous in 
the affair, and without exception pursued their occupation with an 
order and industry which promised a speedv and satisfactory re- 
sult. 

But this indispensable operation of washing was by no means 
the only occupation of the hour. At a short distance a fiddler 
was rehairing his bow from the tail of a spavined horse : the own- 
er of a bass drum was cobbling the leather braces and casting lu- 
gubrious glances at a yawning fracture in the tympan. A com- 
mittee of drivers were holding council over a delapidated vehicle, 
while axe and saw, hammer and nails were at work on the crazv 
carts and vans ; the peep show completely disembowled, disclosed 
its mysteries to unheeding eyes, while the owner pottering among 
the strings and pulleys, sought to repair the dislocated machinery. 
All the while a hideous booing and braying arose from a distant 
part of the ground, where a musician was tuning his monster ma- 
chine, and anything more dismal than the wail of the single notes 
as they waved and wavered in unison could not be imagined. 

Of course we had been too long in England to require any ex- 
planation of this singular scene. We saw at once that all these 
were but the necessary preliminaries to a country fair, which was 
to come off the next day. They informed us that they came this v 
round regularly twice a year, and never without having a washing 
day at the brook. They were lodged in the barn (where a hun- 
dred were usually furnished with quarters for the night) belonging 
to the Inn keeper, who charged them nothing for this accommo- 
dation provided they paid their score for gin. Unless their wine 
bill is discharged a portion of their propertv is detained. Upon 
the occasion when we saw them, one of their favorite performing 
poodles was held by the Inn keeper as security for 2s 6d. The 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 223 

showmen said they would redeem him from their first takings at 
the fair of the next day. After leaving the party we passed the 
Inn and remained long enough to verify what the showman had 
said. On approaching the building we heard the plaintive notes 
of the whining hostage, and on entering the top room found the 
poor poodle tied up in the bar. I he publican said these strolling 
actors and showmen were not worse as to morals than the run of 
his customers. That some of the men drank hard, to be sure, but 
that was the exception and not the rule ; that as a class they like 
nothing better than a hot supper and plentiful supply of edibles, 

I after taking which with a "night cap" of hot gin, they turn into 
the clean straw of the sheltering barn. 

The following day we saw at the fair the entire party we had 

! seen at the pool. They had arrived during the night and selected 
their ground, arousing the town from sleep by the hammering, 
lumbering and din of the preparations. The best sites had been 

i monopolized by the first comers who had erected their booths, 
stages, &c. during the night, thus securing the entire day for bus 
iness. As the multitudes do not crowd to the fair until evening, 
there is no particular advantage in this haste, But we will not 

J enter upon the details oi the country fair ; they are familiar to ev- 
ery one, its fun, its folly and its sin. Among all the curious peo- 

I pie attending it none were more curious than our acquaintances 
of the washing pool. Here was the bold musician who had made 
the yesterday hideous with his booing and braying machine, which 
was now all polished and varnished, grinding away at his instru- 
ment with a roar that filled the whole ground. Surrounding him 
was an open-mouthed audience, devouring the inexplicable drama 
performed by the little wooden figures, which dance, twirl, run and 
fight together, by the mere turning of the handle, while among 
the audience the grinder's little daughter, her head covered with 
a tiara, and her breast covered with a white handkerchief, thrust 
herself and her tambourine in hopes of pennies. Conspicuous 
among the performing dogs, all dressed in colors and spangles, 
moving in a minuet to the music of pipes, and the big drum, with 
the cobbled tympan, was the captive of yesterday. And there 
was the sallow-faced, long bearded philosopher, clad in the courtly 
professional garb of centuries past— a peaked hat upon his head, 
a waving mantle falling over his limbs and beneath his chin, form - 
ing a showy background to his long, black beard, a pointed Van- 
dyke collar, which is recognized at once as the identical gem he 
was yesterday washing with such deliberate gravity. He was 
here as Esculapius, and with pill box in hand discoursed "in words 
of learned length and thundering sound" on the ills that flesh is 
heir to and the merits of his medicaments, while a boy at his feet 



224 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

makes all sorts of horrible grimaces of countenance, contortions ol- 
face in exemplification of the sufferings of those who have not tried 
the Doctor's remedies. Near is the traveling theatre with its gauzy 
panorama forty feet long and twenty high, on whose broad plat- 
form fools and clowns, and mummers and harlequins and shameless 
women dance and shout a reel and whirl in one mad rage togeth- 
er, all affording the merest foretaste of the indecency and fooleries 
within. This is the grandest of the temples of pleasure, and is 
flanked by the dancing and drinking booths, where drunkenness 
and wantonness go hand in hand, 

These strolling showmen form but a part of that numerous class 
or varieties of classes who prefer the charms of a wandering life to 
any other, and who have a rooted antipathy to in-door life and 
regular occupation. Some of these are known as "tramps," and 
pass their lives in traversing the Kingdom, professedly in search of 
employment. They are rarely expert and for the most part loathe 
the work they seek. The confirmed tramp would upon no.account 
confine himself to one spot, so fixed with him is the habit of vag- 
abondage. To this class belong the itenerant tinkers, the knife 
grinders, the cane chair plaiters, the umbrella menders, the rat 
catchers, vermin hunters and the whole tribe of unlicensed 
hawkers. Some years ago we saw one of these cane chair plaiters 
industriously plying his occupation in the crowded thoroughfares 
of Liverpool and months afterwards recognized him in a Sea Side 
village inn Hants. It is impossible to reduce them into settled hab- 
its and indeed no one seems to care to take the trouble, though all 
are aware that from all their barter Her Majesty's exchequer is none 
the richer, thatYliey contribute nothing to the support of society. 
Notwithstanding the strange spectacles witnessed at the fairs, the 
btrangest of all is the people themselves, or as Pope expresses it, 

"Let bear or elephant be e'er so white, 
The people, sure the people are the sight." 

Here we must dismiss the subject. Our plan does not admit of 
our entering upon the relations which the vagabond tribes bear to 
and the influence they exercise upon that portion of society with 
which they are brought in contact. The subject will be better 
treated by those who give themselves to the consideration and 
elucidation of social questions. 

Proceeding by a route we had previously decided upon, a most 
circuitous one considering that London was the ultimate object, we 
arrived the day after leaving Sevcnoaks at Battle, having delayed 
on the way only long enough to take a draught from the celebra- 
ted ferruginous spring of Tonbridge wells and to visit Penhurst, 
commonly called the home of the Sydneys. In the environs of 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 225 

Tonbridge we visited some curious rocks from 40 to 70 feet high, 
containing many singular clifts and caverns. One of these which 
is known as the Bell Rock, emits a clear, ringing sound when 
struck. The lap dog of a lady named Bow, fell through a chasm 
in this rock during the last century, an event which she caused to 
be commemorated in the following inscription : 

"This scratch I make that you may know 
On this rock lies ye beauteous Bow; 
Reader, this rock is the Bow's Bell, 
Strik't with thy stick and ring his knell. 7 ' 

Penhurst Park was at the time of the Norman conquest the res- 
idence of the Penchester family and so continued for two centuries 
later. It then passed to the Dukes of Buckingham, subsequently 
to the Dukes of Northumberland and was finally inherited by that 
grand old gentleman, the pride of the court of Elizabeth, Sir Philip 
Sydney. 

Great interest attaches to Penhurst as the home of the Sidneys, 
and especially of the Countess of Pembroke, "the subject of all 
verse, Sidney's sister." This accomplished woman was born about 
the middle of the 16th century and was reared with the utmost 
care, particular attention having been paid to her education. She 
made remarkable progress in every branch of learning and became 
the brightest star in the galaxy of brilliant and talented women 
who ornamented the Court of Elizabeth. At this time one of the 
most conspicuous men for his rank, religion and learning among 
Elizabeth's courtiers, was the Earl of Pembroke. A mutual at- 
tachment sprung up between them, and in 1576 they were married. 
Shortly after in conjunction with her brother, Sir Philip Sydney, 
she composed the Arcadia, a work of superior merit, though al- 
most entirely neglected in the present day. Her fame as a poet, 
however, rests on her version of the Psalms, which were likewise 
written in conjunction with her distinguished brother. Up to the 
appearance of her work only two metrical versions of the entire 
Psalms had been attempted : the first, the well-known translation by 
Sternhold & Hopkins, and the second by Archbishop Parker. Both 
were inferior in vigor, dignity and poetic spirit to that by the Sid- 
neys. As a specimen of the excellence of her version we shall 
here reproduce the opening of that truly magnificent Psalm, the 
139th, and her version has never been surpassed : 

PSALM CXXXIX— PART I. 
O' Lord ! in me there lieth nought. 
But to thy search revealed lies : 
For when I sit 



(57) 



226 RAMBLING REM1NISCENSES. 

Thou markest it, 
No less thou notest when I rise ; 
Yea, closest closet of my thought 
Hath open windows to thine eyes. 

Thou walkest with me when I walk, 
When to my bed for rest I go, 
I find thee there, 
And everywhere: 
Not youngest thought in me doth grow, 
No, not one word I cast to talk, 
But yet unuttered thou dost know. 

To shun thy notice, leave thine eye, 
.0 whither might I take my way? 
To starry sphere ? 
Thy throne is there. 
To dead men's. undelightsome stay ? 
There is Thy walk, and there to lie 
Unknown, in vain I should essay. 

i O Sun ! whom light nor flight >can match. 

Suppose thy lightful, flightful wings 

Thou lend to me, 

And I could flee. 

As far as thee the evening brings ; 

Ev'n led to west he would me catch, 

Nor should I lurk with western things. 

Do thou thy best, O secret night 
In sable veil to cover me; 
Thy snble veil 
Shall vainly fail : 
With day unmask'd my night shall be ; 
For night is day, and darkness light, 
O Father of all lights to Thee. 

As a prose writer she was equally elegant in style. The follow- 
ing lines, quoted from her translation of Philip de Mornay's "Dis- 
course of Life and Death" will satisfactorily establish the fact. 

"It seems to me strange and a thing much to be marveled, that 
the labourer to repose himself hasteneth as it were the course of 
the sun ; that the mariner rows with all his force to obtain the port, 
and with a joyful cry salutes the desc d land ; that the traveller 
is never quiet nor content till he be r the end of his voyage, and 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 227 

that we, in the meanwhile tied in this world to a perpetual task, 
tossed with continual tempests, tired with a rough and cumbersome 
way, cannot yet see the end of our labour but with grief, nor be- 
hold our port but with tears, nor approach our home and quiet 
abode but with horror and trembling. This life is but a Penelope's 
web, wherein we are always doing and undoing ; a sea open to all 
winds, which sometimes within, sometimes without never ceases to 
torment us, a weary journey through extreme heats and colds, 
over high mountains, steep rocks and thievish deserts. And su 
we term it weaving this web, in rowing at this oar, in passing this 
miserable way. Yet lo, when death comes to end our work, when 
she stretcheth out her arms to pull us into the port ; when after so 
many dangerous passages and loathsome lodgings, she would con- 
duct us to our true home and resting place ; instead of rejoicing 
at the end of our labour, of taking comfort at the sight of our land, 
of singing at the approach of our happy mansion, we would (who 
would believe it?) retake our work in hand, we would again hoist 
sail to the wind, and willingly undertake our journey anew. No 
more then remember we our pains ; our shipwrecks and dangers 
are forgotten ; we fear no more the travails and the thieves. Con- 
trawise, we apprehend death as an extreme pain, we doubt it as a 
rock, we fly it as a thief. We do as little children, who all the day 
complain, and when the medicine is brought them, are no longer 
sick ; as they who all the week long run up and down the streets 
with pain of the teeth, and seeing the barber coming to pull them 
out, feel no more pain. We fear more the cure than the disease ; 
the surgeon than the pain. We have more sense of the medi- 
cine's bitterness, soon gone, than of a bitter languishing, long con- 
tinued ; more feeling of death, the end of our miseries, than the 
endless misery of our life. We fear that we ought to hope lor. 
and wish for that we ought to fear. 1 ' 

He*r profound knowledge of the Hebrew tongue and the classic 
languages — the models necessary to a perfect knowledge of poe- 
try — made her the admiration of the scholars of the age. Among 
the truest admirers of her genius and virtues was Spencer, the first 
poet of the time. To her intellectual gifts she joined rare personal 
charms, which were celebrated by Ben Johnson. After a life pro- 
tracted to an advanced age and twenty years of widowhood she 
died September 25th, 1621, and was buried in Salisbury Cathedral, 
and though no monument was ever erected to her memory 
she has been honored with an epitaph, perhaps better known 
than any other which has graced the annals of the land, and 
which cannot fail to perpetuate, in colors durable as the language 
in which it is written, her beauty, virtue, and mental endow- 
ments. 



228 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Underneath this sable hearse 

Xies the subject of all verse ; 

Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother. 

Death, ere thou hast kill'd another, 

Fair and learn' d, and good as she, 

Time shall throw a dart at thee. 
Let us add a word as to Sir Philip Sidney who was one of Eng- 
land's greatest, noblest men. His father, Sir Henry Sidney, was 
an Irish gentleman who married a daughter of the Duke of North- 
umberland, and Philip was born at Penhursl,in 1554. At the age 
of twenty-five, he became one of the most highly trusted counsel- 
lors of Elizabeth, by whom he was sent as Ambassador to the 
Emperor of Austria. 

He proved one of her wisest advisers a few years later when 
the Duke of Anjou sought her hand in marriage. Though the 
Queen was 25 years older than the Duke, he visited England to 
press his suit in person and paid the Queen a secret visit at Green- 
wich. Though he was not handsome, his manners were pleasing, 
and he made a decided impression on her heart. The Queen ord- 
ered her ministers to fix the terms of the marriage settlement ; 
and a day was appointed for the nuptials. The wisest of her ad- 
visers, Sir Philip Sidney, saw the necessity of averting a step which 
might have been very prejudicial to the interest of England, and 
had the courage to address a letter to her, in which he dissuaded 
her from the match with such force of reasoning, that her resolu- 
tion was shaken. She became irresolute and melancholly as the 
day of marriage drew near, and is said to have passed several 
sleepless nights. The advice of Sir Philip prevailed and the Duke 
of Anjou was dismissed. 

In 1585, an English army under the famous Earl of Leicester, 
was sent to Holland to aid the Prince of Orange. The Earl was 
a poor general, and did little for the cause, but Sir Philip. Sidney 
so greatly distinguished himself by his courage and conduct, that 
his reputation rose to the highest pitch throughout Europe. He 
was invited to accept the Crown of Poland, and would have ac- 
cepted but for the Queen. On the 17th of October, 1586. he was 
mortally wounded at the battle of Zutpher. After the battle, while 
lying mangled with wounds, upon the field, a bottle of water was 
brought him to relieve his thirst ; but observing a soldier near him 
in a similar condition, he said, "This man's necessity is greater 
than mine," and resigned the water to the dying man. His body 
was taken to London and buried in St. Paul's Cathedral. 

Besides the beautiful poem of the Arcadia, which places him in 
a high rank among poets, he wrote a number of smaller pieces, both 
in prose and verse. By the writers of that age he is described as 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 22Q, 

the most perfect model that could be imagined of a great charac- 
ter. With the wisdom of a statesman, the valor of a soldier and 
the elegant accomplishments of a gentleman and scholar, he com- 
bined high principles of religion, and great purity of life. No per- 
son was too low to become an object of his humanity. 

Battle is about seven miles from Hastings, and is situated near 
the spot where William the Conquerer fought his great battle with 
Harold, on the 4th of October, 1066. Harold was killed by an 
arrow which passed through the eye into the brain and Norman 
power was thus founded in England. On the battle field William 
I, established the Abbey of St. Martin de bdlo Loco, in gratitude 
for his victory, and as a solemn act for the repose of the souls of 
those who had fallen. After many ages of splendor the Abbey was 
despoiled by Henry VIII and much of it was destroyed. A por- 
tion of the ruins remain and are open to the inspection of visitors 
and another part of the Abbey has been restored and is occasion- 
ally used by the Duke of Cleveland. Everything connected with 
this memorable spot. is too well known to justify being communi- 
cated by us to the reader. Near battle, we visited Normanhurst 
— the splendid seat of Thomas Brassey, M. P., who has just been 
appointed by Mr. Gladstone, first Lord of the Admiralty — and had 
the pleasure to see his father, Thomas Brassey, Sr., the celebrated 
Railroad Contractor and millionaire, who founded the family. He 
was then about 65 years of age and was suffering from the palsy, 
but was still in the full possession of his mental faculties. 

From Battle we proceeded by private conveyance to Hastings, 
stopping in Warrior Square, and after a few days sight seeing there 
and at St. Leonard's, returned by Brighton to London. Arriving 
in the Metropolis about two o'clock and near the tower, and un- 
fatigued by the journey, we determined to avail ourselves of the 
opportunity to make another visit to this ancient building and 
have a look at its contents before proceeding to our quarters in 
Wimpole street. The day was cold and a strong easterly wind 
searched the very bones of the miserable crowd of sight seers, 
many of them Americans, whom we found penned in the open air 
just within the gate. When about 130 persons were gathered to- 
gether, the gate closed, and while another crowd was allowed to 
collect outside it, those within were tolled off in batches of thirty 
and followed a beef-eater, who marched through some portions of 
the Tower, giving a history ot the special features therein, but in 
such an undertone that few heard a word he said. We were taken 
through the magnificent collection of Armor and Arms at a pace 
which forbade the slightest examination of those grand historical 
relics, telling their wondrous tales of ancient chivalry and bloody 
battles. There was not a single piece of Armor, but had a vol- 

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23O RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

ume inscribed upon it, not a lance or sword without a history of 
its own. In that collection of iron, England's past glories were 
told over and over again and yet we were compelled to walk past 
them without a chance of even looking at some articles and with 
only a cursory glance at others, which left no impression on the 
mind except of disgust with the authorities. This is what the 
tourist gets for his trouble in visiting London Tower. 

The next morning was Sunday and our amiable and accomplish- 
ed friend Mrs. Priaulx, who was the follower of the strange man, 
who has been stykd the Plato of Christianity, Swedenborg, not 
only invited, but insisted upon our taking a seat in her carriage 
and going to King's Cross to hear a sermon from Dr. Bayley. — 
Reaching about 10 o'clock the new Jerusalem church, we found it, 
architecturally, comfortable and commodious. At the East end, 
beneath the table of mosaic law stands an Altar bearing the sac- 
ramental elements, in front of which, to the right and left towers, 
a brace of imposing pulpits. In looking over the books in Mrs. 
Priaulx's pew, we found that the new Jerusalem musical arrange- 
ments include anthems as well as hymns. This was an agreeable 
surprise. As the congregation began to assemble, we discovered 
that the Swedenborgians are by no means a sombre sect, for the 
lover and his lass were ubiquitous and there was a pleasing absence 
of the elongated visage. After- awhile the fine toned and well 
played organ piped up, and then from the vestry emerged two 
figures— one of them Dr. Bayley — the other an assisting high 
priest of Emanuel Swedenborg. They wore Geneva gowns of 
pure white, which exhibited in front a plentitude of waistcoat 
and watch chain. The two white figures ascended the two lofty 
pulpits. Now commenced the services, which were conducted 
with irritating slowness ; but in mercy this tardy process is reliev- 
ed by some capital singing. The professional element, one is glad 
to think, has received the sanction of Swedenborg and his disci- 
ples, and we imagine it forms quite as much an attraction as the 
two. gentlemen in the snowy gowns, or the doctrines of Emanuel 
himself. Of the service as such little need be said. The ritual 
bears a strong family resemblance to that of the Morovians. The 
sermon w r as dull and the subsequent Eucharist was all the most 
zealous Protestant could desire. The vagaries and visions of the 
founder of this phase of religion seemed to be judiciously kept in 
the background, and there was, indeed, little to offend the suscep- 
tibilities of the most rigorously orthodox. One of the pastors in- 
vited the working men to a meeting in the week in order that a 
passage in St. Mathew might be explained by a layman in the 
light of the prophet Swedenborg, but as no workmen were visible 
to the naked eye in the church, we were not seriously alarmed for 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 231 

the spiritual safety of the proletariat. Altogether the service was 
exceedingly pleasant, especially for those who are fond of good mus- 
ic and some parade. Mure amused than edified by what we had 
seen* we returned to Cavendish Square and enjoyed a good dinner 
and long chit chat with our friends. 

The following morning we re-entered upon the prosaic duties of 
our town life at that period. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

THE ANGLO-NORMAN ISLE OF GUERNSEY. 

England affords so many objects of interest worthy of descrip- 
tion that a work of the nature of this might easily be made very 
voluminous. This we do not desire, nor probably the reader. 
We shall, therefore, close these reminiscences with a concluding 
chapter, in order to give some very rambling reminiscences of 
the Island of Guernsey, where annually, for years, we spent much 
time. 

This pretty little island lies in a favored archipelago in the bay 
of Lamanche, or tire bay of Mount St. Michel, as the English call 
it, about 85 miles from and S. E. of Weymouth, on the north 
west coast of France, at the extremity of Cherbourg point. It is 
a favorite resort of half pay officers and others of limited income, 
for the necessaries of life are cheap and the luxuries untaxed. It 
is also much frequented by delicate persons who require a mild 
winter climate. The gulf stream after leaving America crosses the 
ocean and expends itself on the shores of Western Europe, to 
which cause may be attributed the genial climate of the southern 
counties of England and the Channel Islands. The vast body of 
tepid water of the gull stream causes also rapid evaporation and the 
fogs which hang over this part of the world and which envelope 
Guernsey with their warm breath, create upon the rocks in the 
midst of the sea a flora, which the most beautiful islands of the 
Adriatic and Mediterranean might well envy. The Aloes and 



2 3 2 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

the Camelia spring up in the open air and the Passion flower en- 
twines itself around the largest trees. 

In London we formed the acquaintance of several Guernsey- 
men and on reaching St. Peter-port were most cordially wel- 
comed, received, indeed, with that warmth and true politeness 
which come from the heart. By Col. James Priaulx, of Mont- 
ville, one of Her Majesty's aid-decamps, we were introduced to 
the Lieutenant Governor, General C. Rochforth Scott, and Sir 
Stafford Carey, the Bailiff, or Chief Justice of the Court of Com- 
mon Pleas. With both we were much pleased, the General 
uniting to the qualities of the old soldier the accomplishments of 
the man of letters,* and the Bailiff, who is a graduate of Oxford 
and former professor of law in the University of London, adding 
to a profound knowledge of his profession, elegant scholarship 
and extensive attainments in several branches of learning. Sir 
Stafford was a tall, strongly built, erect, handsome man of about 
65— with dignified, but affable manners and bearing— moreover, 
a man enjoying that valuable gift, a presence which is said to have 
carried more men to fortune than intellect. Subsequently a warm 
friendship grew up between Sir Stafford and the writer, and he 
takes a sorrowful pleasure in saying of him here, years after his 
•death, that a more noble, honorable, upright man and jud^e never 
lived. & 

Such was the beauty of the island as we looked upon it from 
the deck of the Weymouth steamer which took us to St. Peter- 
port that we lost no time on our arrival in viewing Castle Cornet, 
the fort, the docks, the light houses, the columns^and statues— all 
the objects of interest in and about St. Peter Port and then in visit- 
ing the bays, inlets and commons, going entirely round the island 
and through the interior to the Parish churches situated near the 
centre of each parish, and surrounded by a small cluster of houses, 
stopping to talk to the peasants, entering their houses and exam- 
ining their farm buildings, their farms, their stock, etc., and re- 
turned to the town so much delighted that we pronounced the 
island a garden, a veritable earthly paradise, where a few weeks 
before, the fields had been laden with rich harvests and the or- 
chards covered with fruit. 

Let us now plunge, without regard to order, after the advice of 
Horace, into the midst of what we have to say. 

Within a few days after our arrival we dined at Haviland Hall 
the Governor's residence, and at Candie, that of Sir Stafford 
Carey, mee ting at both places representatives from the leading 

*Gen'l Scott is author of a learned work entitled "Rambles in Egypt and 
t*if 18 '' v He was an ensign in the British army in 181 2 and present at the 
battle of New Orleans in 1815. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 233 

families of the island. This was during the winter, and the winter 
is the gay season in Guernsey, and if the entertainments are on a 
smaller scale than those of London, Paris and New York, they 
are none the less agreeable. 

The resources of the island in the way of society are by no 
means inconsiderable. The native society is quite large and is 
reinforced by the Garrison officers and their families, and there 
are always in the island detachments of Royal Engineers, artillery 
and infantry. The stranger population, composed of those to 
whom we have referred, is never less than 3,000, many being En- 
glish families, who have adopted it as a permanent residence, and 
there are always many yatchmen and other pleasure seekers who 
come here at every season, but more particularly in summer. As 
all are people of leisure, there is no business but pleasure, and 
Guernsey is a decidedly gay and festive spot, a little, though a 
very little, Paris. The usual vices and follies of the great world 
prevail, but probably in a less degree than in larger communities. 
However this may be, we shall not declaim against them in bitter 
or indeed, in any terms, as the Guernsey devotees of fashion are 
no worse, if no better, than others— than modern society in general 
— against which it is not our purpose to tilt the lance. As to 
the customs of good society, it is sufficient to say that they are 
similar to those which prevail in London and New York rather 
than in Paris, only slightly modified by ancient isl and customs. 
The people are, in a general way, very much like other people- 
as fond of dancing as the French, of music as the Italians, and ol 
eating as the English. This brings us to remark that as in En- 
gland and Guernsey, the dinner is the main institution of society, 
and as it differs a little in the way it is prepared and served fi 
our American dinner, it will not tire our readers if we say a word 
about it. In the first place, it maybe truly said of them that they 
are exceedingly good and enjoyable and always select as to com- 
pany. And the company invited must not arrive too soon or too 
late, but strictly at the hour invited. They are never crow-! 
and are spiced with the conversation of educated people— experi- 
enced and traveied ladies and gentlemen, and men of talent for 
talking, if such can be secured, which makes them highly grati- 
fying to the mind and senses. It is customary to dine at rive 
o'clock, but dinnerparties rarely occur before half past six and 
sometimes as late as half past eight o'clock. The place of distinc- 
tion at the table is the seat at the greatest distance from the door 
at which the food is brought in, and to the right of the lad 
the house. This post is usually assigned to the person of highest 
rank, or stranger guest, but great eminence in talents sets aside 
distinctions These rise superior to rules. All the rest take their 

(59) 



234 RAMBLING REM1NISCENSES. 

places promiscuously, unless, as is often the case, the names of 
the guests on cards are placed at the seat they are intended to 
occupy. A servant does the carving lor the company. The din- 
ner begins with a light soup ; this is followed by fish, potatoes and 
salad ; then follow the entrets, then the roast, then the game, then 
the pastries and puddings, then cheese, and last the fruits and 
nuts. With the fish, sauterne and sherry are served, then cham- 
pagne, hock and claret, and the dinner ends with port, claret and 
sherry, liqueurs and coffee. No healths are drunk by anybody 
present. Occasionally, however, a foreigner's health is proposed, 
when he is expected to make a few remarks. After the ices and 
dessert have gone round, the ladies retire, when everything is re- 
moved but the wine and nuts, over which the gentlemen converse 
until nine or ten o'clock, when the gentlemen join the ladies in the 
drawing rooms where such guests as have been invited to an "ev- 
ening" are assembled, and where whist, music and dancing con- 
clude the entertainment. There is a homely old proverb applica- 
ble to these Guernsey dinners — "one may go further and fare 
worse." 

Let us indulge in a few more details. To the after dinner recep- 
tions, or "evenings," the lady of the house invites the company, 
and these parties are usually large and the company somewhat 
promiscuous, often including, il not all, much the greater part of 
the hostess' acquaintances — consequently like the garrison and 
other balls, they are crowded and there is no small amount 
of cramming, squeezing and struggling, especially around the sup- 
per table. These suppers are, by the way, always good, consist- 
ing of fowls, game, &c, all kinds of made dishes, including one 
peculiar to the island, and called pickled ormers.* It is a shell 
fish, something similar to the oyster, only when cooked in Guern- 
sey, by an ancient chef de cuisine, much better. Everything is 
washed down with sherry, claret and champagne. Dancing is 
always going on somewhere, but little else is visible to the on-looker 
than a writhing mass of humanity. Even in winter, in this mild 
climate, the heat on these occasions is oppressive, notwithstanding 
the pains taken to secure good ventilation, and the rapid parsing 
round of ices. Conspicuous at these balls, are, of course, the subal- 
terns in the army and under graduates fresh from the universi- 
ties, the latter 'painfully neat,' as Hood says, and known among 
the Lilies of Guernsey, notwithstanding their irresistible garments, 
as "featherless bipeds." These gallants, who are always at a pre- 
mium at dances, now and again feather their nests by marrying 
the island belles, who are generally heiresses and always pretty. 

*The shells of the ortner are converted into work-boxes and pretty toys of one 
kind or another. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



235 



The Guernsey women, we may as well say here, are tall, well pro- 
portioned, and of blonde complexion in the high and brunette in 
the low parishes ; their carriage is noble and their tone of voice 
sweet and tender. Owing to the extreme purity of the atmosphere 
and their open air exercises, they do not require artificial aid to 
heighten their beauty, the bloom of the rose and lily vie in their 
complexions. Their dress is Parisien and, of course, lacks nothing 
in the way of taste and elegance. 

At this point, where we have spoken of the dinner customs and 
the marrying young man, it may not be out of place to say some- 
thing ii) regard to that fashionable event, the marriage breakfast 
— an event far too rare in the island where there are several 
thousand more females than males — thousands, indeed, of splendid 
girls, marriagable, but unmarried. The disproportion is so gi 
that a stranger might well imagine that the men had fallen upon 
the advice of Mr. VVeller to his son Samivel ; "I'm a goin' to 
leave you, Samivel, my boy, and there's no telling ven I shall see 
you again. Your mother-in-law may have been too much for me, 
or a thousand things may have happened by the time you next 
hears any news o' the celebrated Mr. Veller o' the Bell Savage. 
The family name depends wery much upon you, Samivel, and I 
hope you'll do wot's right by it. Upon all little pints o' breedin', 
I know I may trust you as veil as it it was my own self. So I've 
only this here one little bit of adwice to give you. If ever you 
gets to up'ards o' fifty, and feels disposed to go a marryin' any- 
body — no matter who— jist you shut yourself upin your own room, 
if you've got one, and pison yourself off hand. Hangin's wulgar.so 
don't you have nothin' to say to that. Pison yourself, Samivel, 
my boy, pison yourself, and you'll be glad on it arterwards." The 
real cause of this anomalous state ol~ affairs is simply the fact that 
most of the Guernsev youths are abroad seeking their fortunes — 
some in the British army, some tossed about on the seas in men of 
war, or commercial vessels, some are growing coffee in Ceylon, or 
wool in Africa or Australia and others are cow boys in Colorado. 
Wherever there is work to be done or money or glory to be ac- 
quired, these Guernsey boys are to the front. Yes these are the 
causes of the disproportion and not the want of beauty or accom- 
plishments with the ladies. 

The customs which prevail in regard to marriage are not 
very dissimilar to those of the English. People marry after 
the publication of three banns, and a dispensation of banns is easily 
obtained by those who do not wish to be thus married, and those 
who aspire to the habits of good society never do, as the marriage 
by banns is not considered comme ilfaut. Magnificent breakiasts 
among the wealthy, and substantial suppers among the peasantry 



C36 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

are customary on such occasions, irrespective of expense. These 
breakfasts are worthy of a slight notice. It is usually arranged on 
one or more tables, decorated with silver, glass and flowers — the 
wedding cake is richly ornamented with flowers in sugar and a 
knot of orange blossoms at the top. At either end of the table 
are tea and coffee. Generally the viands are cold, consisting of 
poultry, game, salads, hams, tongues, jellies, cake and indeed 
sweets of every description, ices, fruits, wines, etc. The wedding 
cake is cut by the nearest gentleman and handed round. The 
father — or in case the father be absent, or dead, the nearest friend 
now proposes the health of the bride and bride groom. The lat- 
ter is expected to answer, which we have often heard him do in a 
most amusing and ridiculous manner, and to propose the bride- 
grooms-man. The latter returns thanks, and pledges the brides- 
maids, who answer through the bridegroom. The health of the 
clergyman, if he is present, is also proposed. The health of our 
"American cousins," brought us to our legs oftener than we could 
fitly respond in words that breathe and thoughts that burn to the 
hospitality of these charming people. A coach and four draws up, 
after a sufficient time has passed to allow ample justice to be done 
the breakfast, the company then take leave of the bride in the draw- 
ing room, and she is led to the coach as rice and slippers are 
thrown after the drag, in which she drives off. The rice throwing 
had its origin in the Kingdom of Macassar, where rice is thrown out 
of the back windows of the house all day during a wedding. It is 
supposed that since rice is an emblem of fruitfulness, it is thrown 
in the hope that it will secure an abundant crop of olive branches 

On these occasions presents are given by the bride-groom to the 
bride and bridesmaids, and by the bridesmaids and friends to the 
bride. They consist generally of jewelry and are often costly. The 
servants, too, expect presents and are rarely disappointed, from 
which it may be rightly inferred that a fashionable wedding in 
Guernsey is by no means an insignificant affair. 

Though from the diminutive character of the island, there are 
few opportunities of acquiring wealth, there are several families of 
fortune, not large, but easy and independent, whose money has 
been made by trade in South America, Spain, Australia, Ceylon 
and other countries. This is notably the case with the Careys, 
the Allaires, the MacGregors, the Tuppers and the Dobrees, all 
of whom have had members distinguished for their intelligence, 
spirit and enterprise. Having made money by honorable mercan- 
tile transactions, they know how to keep it, and they have enjoyed 
it so long that the taint of trade has gradually disappeared. Their 
children are brought up to the most exemplary habits of economy 
and saving. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 237 

It is usual to give very young children a few small coins weekly, 
which they take with regularity on Saturdays and deposit in the 
savings banks. This is done to teach them habits of accumulation. 
They are told that the bee gathers honey for the winter, the squir- 
rel nuts against a time of want, and the ant is pointed out a* a 
beautiful example of industrious forethought. They are early 
impressed with the idea that man forms no exception to the rule, 
and that in youth he must provide for the necessities of old age. 
The good results otsuch teachings are seen in the staid habits 
and customs of the people, and in their surroundings— in their 
neat, tidy dwellings, well kept grounds and in their dress and gen- 
eral thrifty appearance. It must not be inferred from this that the 
virtue of economy is carried to an extreme — far from it. These 
good people only practice that kind of thrift which leads to thriv- 
ing. Persons of limited income do not vie with those of larger 
fortune, nor do they lose caste by it. Often have we been invited 
to tea by refined and cultivated persons who accompanied their 
civility with the remark that they were unable to give dinners — 
hence their invitations to equally agreeable and less expensive 
entertainments. It gave us genuine pleasure to accept such invita- 
tions and we always enjoyed much these quiet reunions. While 
an enlightened economy prevails with all there is no parsimony or 
niggardness. No people display a more Christian or charitable 
spirit in all matters affecting the poor. So large are the volun- 
tary contributions to the poor, especially during the Winter, that 
little is left to be done by the parochial authorities. And never was 
a sailor lost at sea, a workman blown to atoms in the quarries, or 
a family overtaken by any unusual misfortune such as the loss of 
the head, that a handsome subscription did not follow — often plac- 
ing the widow and children beyond want. This benevolent spirit, 
which forms so beautiful a feature in the Guernsey character, is 
further shown in large contributions in aid of sober, industrious 
and worthy families who wish to emigrate to America or the Brit- 
ish Colonies, and in contributions to alleviate the misfortunes and 
sufferings of unfortunates in other countries — the victims of fires, 
earthquakes, floods, disease and pestilence. 

The people are physically muscular and active, not so large in 
person as the English or so small as the French, but a fair mean 
between the two. In the high parishes the men and women are 
larger than in the low parishes, which is said to be due to their 
Breton origin in the vale, and to the deplorable extent to which 
marrying in-and-in is carried — the rule down there being to marry 
a cousin if possible. The population of the high parishes claim a 
Norman origin. In every part of the bailiwick the people are of 
a vivacious and lively temperament and a stranger walking through 

(60) 



238 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

the market place, the arcade or high street of an evening, sees gay 
countenances, hears obstreperous laughing and a universal inclina- 
tion to jollity, and this among a people far removed from what is 
st>led an ignorant and restless populace. 

Regret has been expressed, even by Guernseymen, that the 
people do not take more pleasure in the manly sports of the En- 
glish, instead of passing their leisure time at bazaars, or following 
religious and other processions. The better sort of people among 
the" Islanders are not, it is true, fond of procuring themselves 
pleasure by means of violent exercise. But it is otherwise with 
many and especially with the masses, who are fond of cricket, foot 
ball, tennis, quoits and boating, and these games would be practised 
more generally, if their occupations admitted of it. Games, of 
some sort, are common in Summer and every afternoon one or 
the other of those mentioned is played in Cambridge Park, or 
some other suitable ground. And it is common for the College, 
or Garrison Clubs, or the Town clubs, to send challenges to those 
of Weymouth, Southampton, or Jersey, and invite them to try 
their skill, contesting for some prize. On such occasions large 
crowds of people resort to see them play ; and it sometimes hap- 
pens that gentlemen not members of the clubs, more particularly 
the collegians and garrison officers, are among the number of the 
players. " The Summer festival of Elizabeth College, or what are 
styled "the College Sports," occur on a high ground overlooking 
the sea and are fashionably attended. The young men and boys 
dressed in light tights, contend in hurdle races, flat races, sack 
races, hammer throwing, leaping, and in all manner of athletic ex- 
ercises for prizes, generally awarded by some popular lady. 

At the annual races many other sports are common with the 
peasantry, such as hanging hams, fowls and other eatables at trie 
top of a perfectly smooth pole. The nice things at the top of the 
pole reward the successful climber. The most vigorous young 
men make a trial of this fete, but the greater part are unsuccess- 
ful — sliding down with great velocity, to the no small merriment of 
the spectators, men and women. He who is so robust and skillful 
as to reach the top and throw down the eatables, is the hero of the 
hour. 

When the annual Spring and Autumn races occur, on L'ancresse 
common in Guernsey or Gorey common in Jersey, these and 
many other like sports and rustic games prevail. All classes take 
a deep interest in regattas, and when they occur the islanders turn 
out en masse and many visitors come from the neighboring islands 
and even from England and France. These are only some of the 
games and exercises which call forth the powers of the mind as 
well as those of the body — require strength and dexterity, and the 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 239 

mere mention of these will serve to correct the erroneous impres- 
sions on this subject and tend to convey a just idea of the people. 

LITERATURE, ETC. 

Guernsey has produced several meritorious poets and there is a 
brisk vein of poetry running through the population. The most 
famous poet is Georges Metevier, who made valuable contributions 
to other departments of literature. He prepared and published 
some years since a great work with a view to preserving the ancient 
language of the country, styled " Dictionnaire Franco- Nor mand ; 
au Rcaied des nu is-partiaJiers cut Dialecte de Guernsey." 

The book is grand in the design and complete in its execution and 
reflects infinite honor upon the author and the island. Mr Mete- 
vier, who was over 80 years of age when the work was published, 
had been sixty years employed upon it and had the assistance of 
Sir Stafford Carey, Sir Edgar MacCulloch, F. B. Tupper, Rev. R. 
J. Ozanne and Dr. Hoskins. It has added immensely to the stock 
of knowledge already possessed by the scholars, and teaches the 
student, by a striking example, of the vast and almost incredible 
acquisitions the human mind can make, when long and incessantly 
employed in the pursuit of knowledge. 

It is said that the work was undertaken at the suggestion of Lu- 
cian Bonaparte, Prince ofCanino, who was himself an accomplish 
ed philologist, and despite some inaccuracies, is still the best au- 
thority on the subject which it treats. Mr. Metevier lived in his 
books, knew little and cared less about any of the ordinary affairs 
which exercise the minds of men, and though of the most benev- 
olent and amicable disposition, had little more sympathy with any 
of the questions of the day than if he had been living in another 
world. He was the younger brother of Wm. P. Metevier, a Jurat 
of the Royal Court and one of the most excellent and useful men 
in the island. This erudite and good man, as also his venerable 
brother, has descended to the tomb. Hallowed be their memo- 
ries. Mr. Metevier was a profound etymologist, scholar and poet.* 
Several other Guernsey men have succeeded in different de- 
partments of learning, notably Ferdinand Brock Tupper, author 
of the most valuable history extant of the island, who may be de- 
scribed as traveller, archselogist, natural philosopher and historian, 
combined in one. Frederick Lukis and Dr. MacCulloch, distin- 
guished geologists; Rev J. A. Jeremie, D. I)., regius professor of 

■•Mr. Metevier's poetry is smooth and harmonious — much more so in his na- 
tive French-Normand language than in English— is characterized by fine taste, 
sound judgmenc, and lively imagination. It is reason ornamented by imagi- 
nation and rythm. The reader will find, in appendix A, some lines from his 
pen, which appeared in the local Guernsey papers shortly after the author's re- 
turn to America — Ed. 



240 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

Greek at Cambridge; Peter Paul Dobree, hellenist and classical 
writer; Osmond de B. Priaulx, author of "Questiones Mosaicae," 
or the book of Genesis compared with the remains of ancient re- 
ligion," and other valuable educational works; Dr. Hoskins, author 
of "Charles II., in the Channel Islands," and other works; Amias 
C. Andros, author of an interesting work of travels in Spain, etc.; 
Mrs. Carey Brock, author of several popular religious works. 
The island has produced no eminent artist, painter, architect, or 
sculptor, but there is at present a clever portrait painter, a native 
of the island, — a Mr. Paul Naftel, winning fame in London. If in 
these departments they have done little, they have furnished many 
fine soldiers and sailors to the British army and navy, and the isl- 
and militia is well drilled and full of martial spirit. 

The higher cla^s is known as Sixtys, who have for ages held the 
first position and enjoyed the best of everything in the island. 
They are called by the peasantry "the people of the first fashion," 
and are, in fact, the old manor families. Their society comprises 
nearly all that is brilliant in art and intellect in the island ; all who 
are distinguished by their wealth, virtues, or knowledge, and has 
done so from a remote period. Men of fortune are admitted to 
it because they support the burdens of the state ; men of virtue and 
enlightenment, because they chiefly contribute to its preservation 
and glory, and men of birth from a presumption that it transmits 
from father to son more noble sentiments, and a more ardent pa- 
triotism than can be found in vulgar minds. Particular regard is 
therefore paid to the old families, and especially those whose found- 
ers have displayed examples of .distinguished virtue. Some of 
the Sixtys trace back their origin more than a thousand years, and 
are accused of inventing genealogies to establish their pretensions. 
They enjoy no peculiar privileges or precedency, but their educa- 
tion gives them a claim to the first places and public opinion fa- 
cilitates their attaining them. 

The leading Seigneurs and landed proprietors are the Priaulx's, 
Seigneurs of Comte, the Andros', Seigneurs of Anneville, the 
Sausmarez, Seigneurs of Jerbourg, the de Jerseys, proprietors 
of Oberlands, the Collings', Seigneurs of Serk, the Lefevres, 
Seigneurs of Blanchmond, the Le Marchants, proprietors of Haye 
de Puit, and the Mansells, proprietors of the Vaubelets. The pres- 
ent representatives of these families are as different as possible, in 
all but spirit, from their warlike ancestors, who clad in steel armor 
and mounted on Percheron chargers often made whole districts 
tremble. This was their principal employment, during the middle 
ages, when these Seigneurs exercised a complete mastery over their 
villeins, making them perform all kinds of menial offices in time 
of peace and follow their persons in time of war. In those days there 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 241 

were but Sixteen Seigneurs in Guernsey — the rest of the popula- 
tion was in a state of vassalage. As this was the character, posi- 
tion and former state and condition of the Sixtys, it is hardly sur- 
prising that they still feel a little pride of position. The Sixtys 
affect French manners, as well as the French language* and re- 
semble their architypes in affability, easy elegance and alertness. 
They are not a little proud of their immediate descent from the 
Norman Conquerers of England and boast, as indeed does the 
entire population, that they have never been over- run, subjugated 
or conquered by any race, or nation whatever. Although very 
exclusive, within recent years many have crept into their social 
circle, who ought not to be there — these for the most part have 
been disreputable or what are styled "shady" English. 

The second rank, is known as Fortys and are said, with what 
truth we know not, to be descendants of the fanes tenants of the 
middle ages, or those serfs who by superior parts, acquired lands 
of the Seigneurs exempt from any service, burden, tax or duty to 
the Lord of the Manor, or lands in which Seignorial rights were, 
for a valuable consideration, surrendered. The Fortys are sturdy 
men of affairs, bankers, merchants, manufacturers, care little for 
learning or the arts, and nothing whatever for the gayeties and 
frivolities of the fashionable world. They are full of practical 
ideas, plodding industry and progressive energy. Whatever trade 
and commerce Guernsey can boast of, is in their hands; if they 
do not originate they carry out all public improvements, rear 
blooded stock, apply science to agriculture — they are the men of 
to-day — the Sixtys of yesterday. The latter will not admit them 
to social intercourse, however agreeable they may be in manners, 
in social talents and elevated in character. This is to be regretted 
since many of the Fortys would be ornaments to the island so- 
ciety Such men as John D. Utermarch who though descended' 
of humble Dutch origin, and enjoying few advantages of early 
education, was a man of such perseverance, strength of will and' 
extraordinary audacity that he made the most of every oppor- 
tunity that came in his way, and rose to a prominent position at 
the bar, ranking with such eminent jurists as Charles de Jersey 
and Henry Tupper — the latter the most learned lawyer, compre- 
hensive statesman and unselfish patriot of his day, and Hilary O. 
Carre and James Gallienne, both of plebian extract, but of such' 
talents and acquirements as to rank with the best advocates of the 
Royal Court. Ought such men to be neglected and go unhonored 
in any society ? Certainly not, still less for such shams as are 
every day met, not only in Guernsey, but the world over — men. 

*A society called the Society de Guernsais has been formed with the special 
object of preserving the French -Guernsey language. 



(6l) 



242 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

whom the world calls great and noble, and are only so on the 
o-utside, like the giants one sees in the pantomines who are made 
of paste-board, and have a very ordinary sized man moving 
about in them. 

Mr. Tupper became, in time, one of our wannest friends and we 
cannot allow the opportunity to pass, when his name is mentioned, 
without paying a tribute to his memory. He was a man of vig- 
orous intellect, large heart, just and noble sentiments. He was 
not brought up to enervating luxury. His father was poor — there 
was more bread than butter in that family, but means were found 
to enable him, after completing his academic education at Eliza- 
beth College, to enter the celebrated law school at Caen, in Nor- 
mandy, where he was, in due season, graduated. Returning 
home, he devoted himself to the law practice and met with large 
success. Subsequently he was elected to the States and soon be- 
came the leader of that body and conspicuous for his liberal and 
enlightened statesmanship. In private, he was noted for his be- 
nevolence and generosity, and in public and private lor the warmth 
of his temper, which occasionally approached to bitterness, in his 
contests with the narrow party of obstruction, composed of the 
old school, or men inimical to all change. Sir Stafford Carey, we 
have said, was a man with a presence. Mr. Tupper was a man 
with a manner. By manner we mean that invisible quality which 
insensibly pervades, with the happiest effect, the works of genius, 
which animates the pencil of the artist, the pen of the poet, and 
the sentiments of the orator. Such was his manner that he was ir- 
resistibly charming. The warmth with which he received his 
friends, the vivacity with which he spoke, the skill with which he 
told an anecdote, the charity with which he viewed the short com- 
ings of his neighbors, the ardor with which he denounced a wrong, 
the fidelity with which he adhered to his iriends, in good and evil 
report, in a word his character and his manner drew round him hosts 
of friends and admirers whom he held by a power no language can 
express. And yet this irreproachable and magnetic man had ene 
mies who pursued him with relentless hatred to the grave. Death 
has placed him beyond their reach. For ourselves, we felt for 
him the affection of a brother, admired his virtues, his talents, his 
acquirements, his soul— we never met him without a rising sense 
of pleasure in our breast, feeling a strong desire to be nearer to 
him. This accomplished man and charming companion, who 
commenced life poor, and ended it the wealthiest man in the 
isiand, died while we were yet in Guernsey; was accorded a public 
funeral ; and we followed his remains to the tomb with profound 
sorrow. 

The peasantry are industrious and thrifty, and make successful 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 243 

farmers, excellent gardeners and frnit growers, skilled mechanics 
brave soldiers and hardy sailors. Their qualities have been illus- 
trated on many fields, under the lead of such martial spirits and 
Sarnian heroes as Lord de Saumarez, Major Gen'] Sir Isaac Brock, 
Captain Charles Andros, R. N., General Sir Gaspare! Le Marchant 
and others. 

Whether they be descended from the Seigneurs, or Serfs of 
the middle ages, we know not, but whatever their origin, they are 
a staunch, true and steadfast race. Many of them preserve their 
pedigrees with curious pride, which they would hardly do if 
sprung from slaves, and have the spirit of a long line of ancestors 
as honorable as any of the islanders of whatever rank, and they 
generally begin a history of themselves with a genealogy. A 
Mr. Guille, a cabinet maker of the Hauteville, gave us on one oc- 
casion, when we called to have a chair repaired, an interesting 
account of the Guiiles, and showed his family tree. Mr. Guille 
knew something of his father, a little of his grandfather, and up to 
that point his pedigree was history beyond fable and tradition.. 
Yet we went over it with care, though all family history, but our 
own, is dull reading, and we felt satisfied it was as reliable as a 
majority of such genealogies, though it made out he was de 
scended from Noah. 

Some of the manor houses and country seats are handsome and 
commodious, and surrounded by paik like grounds, ornamented 
with ancient forest trees and fine shrubberies; they look like Eng- 
lish halls. The principal country seats are the Vaubelets, Les 
Eperons, Oberlands, Haviland Hall, St. Helene. Rosenheim, 
Var.quiedor, Saumarez, Woodlands, St. George's, Haye de 
Puits and the Vallon. Like the town houses their interiors are 
quite artistic. The furniture, much of it old oak, the decorations 
and all the surroundings are in extremely good taste and are just 
what one would expect to see in the houses of cultivated people. 

This is particularly the case with Rosenheim, the home of Gen. 
Huysh, a gem in itself, in its furniture, its objects of art, virtu, etc., 
and in its grounds, conservatories, etc. 

The rural population generally reside in substantial stone 
houses, some of them of great antiquity —one of them in St. Mar- 
tin's Parish having A. D. 1604, the date of its erection, cut in a round 
over the front entrance, which has the characteristic Guernsey 
round arched stone doorway. These farm houses and cottages 
while plainly furnished are comfortable and neat, and there is noth 
ing peculiar to them but the round arched stone doorway and the 
iern bed. This lounge, or bed, is a wooden frame placed always 
on one side or the other of the principal sitting room or kitchen 
fire place. It is spread with fern leaves, is called a lit de fouaiUe, 



244 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

and is the resting place of the farmer and his employees when 
they return of an evening, and of any visitor who may come in. 
These beds have been used in the island time out of mind, and 
are connected with all the traditions and habits of the people. 
The writer has often, when stopping during a pedestrian tour, re- 
posed upon them, finding them soft, elastic, and with an agree- 
ab'e aromatic or spicy fern odour. The peasants are noted lor 
honesty. Robbery and thieving are scarcely ever known in the 
country parishes and lost articles, when found, are generally re- 
stored. The trades people while fond of getting a good price for 
their goods and wares, rarely resort to cheatery and we have known 
them to give extra weight, or an additional quantity of an article, 
where they considered the customer outwitted in the price. 
They take pains to explain to strangers the difference in the 
Guernsey weights and measures from those of France and Eng- 
land and thedifference in the value of the foreign and the Island 
currency, and for the most part they are good humored and 
obliging. 

The fourth rank is composed of the day laborers. 

According to ancient custom they were thus ranked, that is to 
say : ist, the Seigneurs, or the nobility ; 2d, the Freemen, or franc 
tenants ; 3d, the Freedmen ; 4th, the Serfs, and as it was the cus- 
tom, if not the law, that each person should marry in his own 
rank, their different orders were long preserved uncontaminated. 
Within the past century there has been a good deal of marrying 
between the Sixtys and the Fortys, the wealth of the Fortys con- 
stituting a very acceptable inducement to the less wealthy of the 
Sixtys. But the Fortys thus admitted into the higher class feel 
their dependence and are often humiliated. It is a painful situa- 
tion to be where they have no authority or influence and it would 
be wiser probably to marry in their own class. 

From what has gone before, the reader will not be surprised to 
learn that the Sixtys regard trade as derogatory, or infra dig, 
and that no one engaged in it, is admitted to their society, nor are 
such persons allowed, with their consent, to fill offices of dignity or 
profit. An election for Judge or Jurat of the Royal Court oc- 
curred while we were in the Island. Accepting an invitation to 
be present, we attended the states of election on the occasion. 

Abraham Bishop, a prosperous and wealthy merchant, was 
nominated for the post. His election was opposed by one of the 
Sixtys, upon the grounds of Mr. Bishop's connection with trade 
and his consequent unfitness for the position This ancient 
policy on part of the old families, has excluded from the States, 
in times passed and still does so, many men of character and 
talents for legislative work. And men have been elected merely 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 245 

because they were descendants of the old Seigneurs, who were 
hopelessly eccentric, or congenitally stupid. The States have 
not heretofore been noted for the acumen, the efficiency or the 
learning of its members, though that body has never, at any time, 
been entirely without men of good parts. To raise the standard 
of ability in the House by electing the better men of the Fortys 
was not agreeable to the Sixtys— still less an effort to purge the 
public councils of all who from great age, incapacity or bad char- 
acter were unsuited for its duties. While such a policy would 
have given moral weight and political strength to the States it 
would have impaired the influence of those who have so long con- 
trolled it. And this was something which could not be tolerated. 
Like Juba, King of Numidia, who had Roman senators in his 
train, the Sixtys like to have Fortys following at their heels. 

The deputy who stood forward to oppose Mr. Bishop's election 
went on sharply to criticise his presumption in allowing his name 
to be presented, and this while he admitted Mr. B. to be a man of 
capacity, of fortune and of deep stake in the community. Though 
this was not denied, the deputy said Mr. Bishop's business pur- 
suits, his want of social standing, and his lack of special legal 
training, (something by the way which none of the Jurats had ex- 
cept the Bailiff) altogether disqualified him for the office. 

The member who had adventurously nominated Mr. B. feebly 
essayed to justify his course, as taken in accordance with the lib- 
eral tendencies of the age, and in the hope of securing more pro- 
gressive ideas and efficiency in the States, but his remarks were 
so badly received that he soon resumed his seat amid the ill sup- 
pressed sneers of that haughty aristocracy, which hardly regarded 
Mr. Bishop as better than a huckster, and, of course, the election 
went against the Merchant Prince, as Mr. Bishop was sometimes 
styled. 

The ancient Greek gods were jealous of those who tried to vie 
with them. Apollo slew Marsyas for daring to contend with him 
on the lyre. Minerva changed Arachne into a spider for boast- 
ing superiority to her. The Sovereign of the Gods could not en- 
dure the luxury and pride of the earthly despot and it became the 
business of Nemesis to compass his destruction. She invoked 
against him Ate or infatuation. Ate darkens his mind and forces 
him to enter of his own will on the path whose end is destruction. 
It seems to have been an article of an Athenian creed that there 
was a sort of wickedness in one free man attempting to rise up to 
or above the level of his fellow citizens. This was a kind of in- 
verted doctrine of the divine right of kings and traces of this sort 
of thing m ay be seen in the history of Guernsey. 

The reader must not infer from all this that the Sixtys in the 

(62) 



246 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 






States are milk sops, far from it. For centuries they looked upon 
their Jurats as personages of very great dignity. Several of those 
on the bench in former times were men of ability and learning, 
some kept up much state in their living, all were of the Seigneur 
class, and they do not wish the office to decline in dignity by the 
introduction to it of persons of inferior caste. This it is and noth- 
ing more. They consider, in fact, that they owe a duty to society 
and that it would be a deriliction of duty to vote a Forty, even if 
the Forty was well qualified and above reproach, into the high 
office of Jurat. So far from being milk sops, the Guernsey Sixtys 
as a rule are men of great cleverness, only a little behind the age, 
or Torys de fond au comble ; they are men of nicety of principle, 
a dignified sense of honor, refinement of feeling, in a word of such 
tastes, sentiments and habits as are engendered and cherished by 
education, and the pursuit, however desultory, of knowledge, and 
these qualities impart a kind of serenity and blandness to the 
whole atmosphere of Sarnian society highly grateful to the culti- 
vated visitor. 

THE SPORTING CLUB. 

' Some of our most enjoyable days were spent on L'ancresse 
Common, first as a guest and afterwards as a member of the 
"Sporting Club." This club is of great antiquity, was no doubt, 
founded at a time when there was game to be had, which is no 
longer the case, and when fishing, as an amusement, was more 
common than now. To day it is merely a dining club, the 
members driving to the common and spending the day idly wan- 
dering-about, looking out upon the ocean, as it rolls on the shore 
with musical, lapping sound, and inhaling the air, fragrant with 
the breath of wild flowers. 'This common, and the cliffs and co- 
tils are famous for the purity of the air, the sweetness of the wa- 
ter which flows from their little springs, the fertile vallies that lie 
between, and for the plants and herbs which are interspersed with 
the grass. These are said to give a peculiar flavor and richness to the 
milk and butter of the cows pasturing on them. Guernsey butter is 
unquestionably good, but we do not credit this statement any more 
than the story told of Helicon, whose plants were said to cause 
the serpents that fed upon them to lose their venom. The Guern- 
sey people believe it all the same. 

After the best part of the day is thus spent, the members assem- 
ble at the club house at 6 o'clock for dinner, and nowhere are bet- 
ter dinners served than at the Sporting Club. After several hours 
spent at the table, the Club, with its guests, returns to town by 
the light of the stars, in omnibusses, reluctant,to separate sooner 
than is absolutely necessary. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 247 

The President of the Club, when we first dined with it, was Maj. 
Genl. Barry, Royal Engineers, a venerable patriarch, who, though 
past 80, was not infirm, but erect and stately, and full of the 
peculiar wit and humor of that splendid Irish race from which he 
was sprung-, and of which he was an ornament. At the lower end 
of the table sat Rear Admiral, Sausmarez Brock, R. N., Vice- 
President, who was hardly less winsome than the President, and 
who never failed to entertain us with his experiences afloat and 
ashore, in India and Africa, but especially in the Crimea, where he 
was Military Governor of Eupatoria — events to which his memory 
fondly clung. His anecdotes, equally amusing and instructive, are 
worthy of a place in the Guernsey library. To the right of the 
President sat the Lt. Bailiff, the present Sir E. MacCulloch, a tall, 
thin, refined looking old man, amiable, engaging and entertain- 
ing, — mild and circumspect in private and public. To the left of the 
V. P. sat the late J. Priaulx, the noblest Roman of them all, a man of 
gentle and polished manners, but who at times of excitement, be- 
came somewhat reckless in tone and bearing and oblivious to the 
conventionalities of society. The generosity of his heart, his in- 
flexible integrity and his noble aspect, gave something of dignitv 
to his language and gestures, however extravagant they might be 
at times. Opposite Mr. Priaulx sat Col. Durnford, who was re 
garded as a native born Sixty, having intermarried with one of 
the manorial families. He was mild, polite, affable and moderate. 
He courted the good will of others and imparted to them his own 
He was neither wit nor humorist, but in his face, his sentiments and 
his language, there was something so honest and engaging that 
one was quickly charmed and attracted. The rest of the mem- 
bers seated themselves promiscuously and were — we take a sad 
pleasure in preserving their names — : 

General Barry, Royal Engineers; 

Admiral Brock, Roval Navy ; 

Sir Edgar MacCulloch. Lt. Bailiff: 

Joshua Priaulx, Seigneur of Comte; 

Joshua Gosselin, of Springfield ; 

Julius Carey, Premier Connetable ; 

Col. Durnford, R. A., of Havalet; 

John Le Mottee, Royal Court; 

Col. Bell, O. A. D., of Swiss-ville ; 

A. D. MacGregor, of Melrose; 

P. S. Dobree, of Ronceval ; 

Le M. Thomas Le Marchant, of Haye de Puits. 

Gen. Barry, Admiral Brock, Mr. Priaulx, Col. Durnford and 
the members generally, had been great travelers and had grown 
thoroughly liberal and cosmopolitan — were without the limitations 



248 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

and prejudices of nationalities, races and sects. It is the fortune 
of most men who mingle in the world and attain to even middle 
age, to make many friends and lose them in the course of nature. 
Such has been our fate. 

Of the fourteen members above enumerated, eight are in their 
graves. Their pleasant and familiar faces will be met no more here 
below, yet the club exists, the music of birds is still heard on the 
common, the waves murmur ceaselessly on the shore, and the air is 
still full of the aroma of odoriferous herbs and sweet scented flowers. 
Man dies, but nature lives, and we recall the sad lament of the 
poet : "Woe that the linden and the vine should bloom, and a just 
man be gathered to the tomb." Sausmarez, Brock and his insep- 
erable boon companion, Barry, are gone ; Joshua Priaulx and his 
old crony, Joshua Gosselin, two jovial men who enjoyed life so 
thoroughly that one could not help wishing they might live for- 
ever—their visiting cards are now tombstones. MacGregor and 
Dobree are gone — but we are getting blue. The dead sleep well. 
They need neither sympathy nor tears, and as for regrets, they 
are unavailing. We cannot, as Lamb lamented, "lay our ineffect- 
ual fingers on the spokes of the great wheel" and stop where we 
are. Growing old is a part of the inevitable programme of life. 
It belongs to the natural process of gradation, by which nature 
accomplishes all her work, never doing anything abruptly. Men 
grow and bud and blossom and bear fruit, or live barren like certain 
trees, and then also like the trees, fade and fall and disappear. 
We can only accept the situation. 

THE INSTITUTIONS OF THE ISLAND, ETC. 

A few words only need be said of the institutions of the island. 
Guernsey has preserved almost in their original form, her ancient 
municipal charters and has to day a municipal government pre- 
cisely what it was in the middle ages, and they enjoy it insecurity, 
though it is behind the age. They have preserved their laws, 
their coinage and their language, though none of them are Eng- 
lish. In their Norman language they conduct the pleadings in 
their courts and the affairs of their States, or local Parliament. 
Though England garrisons the island for defense, no British sol- 
dier dare arrest a Guernseyman, and the Lieutenant Governor 
himself would long hesitate before he would encroach upon the 
local police. 

These ancient laws and customs of the island are very superannu- 
ated in some points and very little in harmony with modern pro- 
gress. The British Parliament wished, years ago, to introduce 
many necessary reforms and gradually to substitute for these old 
Norman laws its own laws and authority, but this the Guernsey 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 249 

people would not hear of. When Parliament sought to obtain its 
ends by a Royal Commission, the States answers fiercely : "Are 
you ignorant that you are not our masters ? We have never been 
conquered by, nor submitted to you. Recollect that we are the 
descendants of the Normans of the Conquest, and that our ances- 
tors imposed their domination over you." Reasons which it is 
very certain would not hold good before heavy ordinance. The 
justice of these views was recognized ; the island does not apper- 
tain to the English government, but belongs to the domain of the 
Queen, who is its suzerain, and who yet retains the prerogatives 
of the Norman Kings. Thus the Parliament held in check by 
these ancient privileges of the crown saw itself powerless, and 
everything is left to the States. Who are to be most admired in 
this conflict — the little people who have preserved such a sacred 
regard for their rights, or the great nation which respects them? 
Such is nevertheless the cause of the independence of the island. 
That their liberty has not been sterile is apparant. On every side 
are seen signs of activity and industry — not only in the smooth 
and beautiful roads, in the substantial character of their houses, 
but in the general well-being of the community and at the gigantic 
granite quays, jetties and docks. In a moral point of view they 
enjoy religious toleration and a free press. Hence strangers col- 
lect in great numbers in all the channel islands, for the condition 
of all is the same, attracted by the fineness of the climate, the 
beauty of the scenery and the freedom of the institutions. 

Many of the manor houses still standing and occupied, bear the 
names of the Huguenots, who took refuge here. The Hauteville 
is the most ancient part of the town, but the Basseville the more 
populous ; it is principally inhabited by merchants and those con- 
nected with the trade of the island. 

The principal towns are St. Peter- port, with a population of 
17,000, and St. Sampson's. Of the latter it is not necessary to say 
more than that it is the chief port for the export of granite. St. 
Peter port is situated on the northern acclivities of the island, 
nearly opposite and in full view of the islands of Herm, Jeddo 
and Serk, three miles from the first two and about seven miles 
from the last. The streets wind up the hills and with the excep- 
tion of the Avenue St. Julien, are steep and narrow but are well 
paved, and the houses, which are built of granite, are roomy and 
substantial. The number of churches is large, but they contain 
few monuments of note, with the exception of the town church and 
the Roman Catholic church, in which there are some good pictures 
and statues. 

HAUTEVILLE HOUSE, VICTOR HUGO, PRIVATE THEATRICALS, ETC. 

The most famous house in the island is that of the illustrious 



(63) 



25O RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

poet, Victor Hugo, in the Hauteviile. On the summit of a cliff, it 
overlooks the town, the fort and the immense horizon of the sea. 
The house awakens a lively curiosity in all visitors to the island, 
and fabulous stories are told in Guernsey of its costly furniture, its 
massive plate, its gorgeous decorations. 

The day after our arrival the poet invited us to breakfast, having 
been introduced to us by John Talbot, Esq., editor of the Star— an 
invitation we accepted with much pleasure, and this was the be 
ginning of a lasting friendship between us and his family,* then 
consisting of Madam Hugo, his sister-in-law, Madam Cheney, and 
the children of his son, Charles Hugo. This is not the place to 
give our impressions of Victor Hugo nor his house — we do not 
wish to recall anything but a little representation which was given 
in it not long afterwards. A charade was performed upon a sub- 
ject proposed by Victor Hugo. 

In the first scene the shadowy Cymbeline appears enveloped in 
clouds of tulle-illusion and having at her feet the beautiful Lean- 
der, pale as a confirmed poet. Transparent and ideal he pays 
court to her with rhymes and sighs something after the style of an 
amorous sonnet of romance. ■ 

Leander, immaterial as he appears, is not the less anxious to ob- 
tain a nocturnal meeting under the trees and upon the moss. His 
eloquence is transparent. After some moments of cooing in prose 
and verse Cymbeline consents, and to the end that her platonic 
lover may find her without noise, she gives him the key of her 
chamber, a delicate little key of gold, a real piece of bijou, which 
one might well believe was made to open the door of the heart of 
a young girl. 

At the moment when Leander disappears the reasonable moral 
man of the piece enters dressed in blue. Me is a fat person and 
a rich banker. He, like Leander, is enamored with Cymbeline, 
but he loves as a simple mortal — a staunch man of business. At 
his sight the shadowy Cymbeline quickly returns to the prose of 
every day life and descends in smiles from her celestial perch to 
receive this kind of chrysalis gentleman, at once Marquis and pro- 
prietor, who is permitted by her parents to love her when Leander 
is present, but Cymbeline does not grant him this privilege. 

The Marquis explains to her what folly it is to love Leander; 
how "much more advantageous to accept his suit — he will open to 
! her the doors of a luxurious and happy life in his Burgundian 
Chateau. She shall sleep late, go to bed early as Queen of Yuetot, 
she shall have four meals a day, and he will attend her with paternal 

^Victor Hugo presented the writer, before his departure for America, with 
his likeness, flatteringly inscribed in his own handwriting. It is preserved at 
Steephill as a precious souvenier of the immortal poet. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 25 1 

care at them all. For amusement she shall hunt the wild beast, and 
enjoy every day young patridges garnished with wild boars' heads. 
Her Sundays shall be passed at Mass, the grand Mass and at Ves- 
pers. The Marquis ends by laying his heart, his kitchen and his 
hand at Cvmbeline's feet. The indignant beauty dismisses this 
prosaic lover, who withdraws defeated, but not discouraged, with 
a malicious smile in which can be seen the hope of ultimate tri- 
umph. 

The final soliloquy of Cymbeline: 

"This Marquis, tie ! the horrible man ! hast thou ever seen him ? 
To hear love spoken of by this dolt who always has his spoon at 
his mouth ! To eat ! who eats to sleep and sleeps to snore. While 
Leander, the zephyrs scarcely dare supply him with breath." Sud- 
denly Cymbeline stops stupefied, is a motionless mass, utterly in- 
ert. Some one quickly enters by the window and throws himself 
at her feet. It is Leander, his cigar in his mouth, his cravat in 
disorder, his hair unkempt, drunk as a lord. The Ex Endymion 
throws himself upon Cymbeline, whom he imagines to be the daugh- 
ter of the porter, a certain Manton, with whose daughter for along 
time he has secretly threaded the ways of love. 

Stupefied Cymbeline seeks to escape from his arms and make 
herself known. Leander holds her by right of conquest and to 
show that he has come to the promised rendezvous draws from 
his pocket a key which causes Cymbeline to raise a cry of horror. 
Instead of a key of gold he presents to her a passport, in rusted 
iron which opens the way to Marten's heart. It is easy to believe 
that this ogress key would have eaten up the little key of gold if 
they had not met in the same pocket. Happily in the midst of 
poor Cymbeline's confusion, the Marquis reappears with the kev 
of gold. 

The end may be conjectured, the Marquis stupefies Leander by 
•his presence and sobers Cymbeline. The result of the whole thing 
is, that Cymbeline and he marry and have many children. 

As to the words of the Charade, they were anti-real, improba- 
ble and unfindable. What was this unknown tongue? No one 
will ever seek for it. No one will ever find it. No one will ever 
know it. One laughs at it and that is all. 



It is usual in the island to provide similar evening amusements 
for guests and we shall long remember with pleasure the private 
amateur Theatricals at Candie got up by Sir Stafford and Lady 
Carey and by Mr. and Mrs. Joshua Priaulx, at the Mount, and the 
inimitable and side splitting comic songs of Julius Carey and others. 

The drama is. held in high esteem by the Guernsey people and 
actors and actresses treated with much civility. A pretty actress 



252 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

is surrounded by the fops, who do not hesitate to express their ad- 
miration for her as a glorious creature. "I say Nash aw — that I 
am — aw — really not accustomed — to seeing such lovely creatures 
in the hay market — aw — haw." "You are quite right" responds 
de Boots, of the Guards, who is leaning against the side of 
the door. "They are rare, she is--aw a most glorious creature-aw." 
There are several halls in Peter- port for the exhibition of plays and 
a small but comfortable theatre. The exterior is unimposing, but the 
interior well decorated. During the Winter pantomimes, historical 
dramas and other plays are performed. The actors and actresses 
are habited in the costumes of the people at the period when the 
personages represented were supposed to have lived. While the 
critics prefer the drama, the people like best comic pieces, in which 
there is a buffoon, whose grimaces and low jests, like those of buf- 
foons elsewhere, obtain the greatest share of applause. Th 
music which accompanies the acting, or "orchestra," is inferior 
unless, as is sometimes the case, the garrison band plays. Th 
island cannot boast of any native dramatists and the plays are gen- 
erally French, or adaptations from the French, though rarely if 
ever, from such tragic writers as Corneille or Racine, Crebillon, or 
Voltaire. P^ew of these modern adaptations can stand the test of 
criticism, but are popular with the masses, as they abound in 
show, noise and nonsense. Though this is so, one must not con- 
clude that the average Guernsey man is miserably ignorant of the- 
atrical matters, that they have banished all sense and propriety 
from their stage and that they cannot be pleased with anything but 
farcical buffoonry. At times they have in the island excellent 
companies and plays acted in the theatre, or in their houses by 
amateurs, in which there is great purity and force of language, 
harmony of versification, intricacy of plot, multiplicity of incident, 
probability of catastrophe, variety of decoration and many other 
excellencies expected in modern drama. Mr. and Mrs. Wybert 
Rousby were the lessees of the theatre at the time we are writing 
about, and the best amateurs were Julius Carey, since Constable, 
Col. Win. Bell, Secretary to the (Governor, and Charles Carey, 
son of the Bailiff, whose performances were always rapturously 
received. 

Though the people are French in descent and speak a dialect of 
the language, their manners and customs are English rather than 
French. None of the peculiar restraints thrown around the inter- 
course of young people of opposite sexes in France, exist in Guern- 
sey. On the contrary, their intercourse is without restraint as in 
England or America and every belle commands as many adorers 
as she lists, who love her platonically — never disunity the idea of 
her beauty from that of her virtue. Love is not considered a mere 



! 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 253 

matter of convenience, or a commerce oflibertinism, but as a laud- 
able passion, a powerful mover of the heart, and as a great induce- 
ment towards a display of that courage and virtue which charac- 
erize heroes. 

Depraved men of the style of Hugo's Leander, will not easily 
be brought to believe that love may be an innocent commerce of 
gallantry and reciprocal affection, of which no one need be asham- 
ed. Yet in the eyes of these Islanders nothing is more true. The 
beau makes no concealment of the lady whom he loves and hon- 
ors. The most modest poet names in his verses the fair one who 
inspired them ; and the chastest lady never blushes to be the ob- 
ject of a guiltless passion, nor scruples to return it publicly. They 
know how to keep love and vice apart, and though at bottom 
their passions be still the same with the rest of mankind, yet with 
them the heart and the senses have different routes and their ob- 
jects are seldom the same. They know the difference between an 
ordinary woman and that sublime being, the divine sovereign of 
their thoughts, an object of the greatest reverence, never to be ap- 
proached but as an angel clad in human form. 

PUBLIC LECTURES, ETC. 

It may be further remarked that learning is not so much culti- 
vated as it might, and under other circumstances probably would 
be, and when it is, it is not so much for the love of it, as for its use 
and convenience in common life Yet there are men of learning 
in the Island, as we have seen, and a well patronized College, 
which under the late head master, Rev. M. Corfe and his prede- 
cessors, acquired much reputation; and a considerable stock of 
books in the College library and those of the Mechanics Institute 
and the Guille-Allez collection. Besides this, Osmond de Beau- 
voir Priaulx, of London, a wealthy and highly cultivated Guern- 
seyman, has presented his large and well selected library to the 
Island, and at his death it is to be placed in Candie House, which, 
with its beautiful grounds, was also presented by Mr. Priaulx to 
the town parish, of which he is a native. This gift adds so largely 
to the stock of books, in the Island, that students will possess fa- 
cilities for conducting their investigations, never before enjoyed. 
Mr. Priaulx's generosity and public spirit are worthy of every 
praise. In all this man of true nobleness of soul does, he is animated 
by an ardent desire to promote the public good of Guernsey. The 
present libraries are largely attended by readers, — so much so, 
that it entirely refutes the idea sometimes advanced by cockney 
tourists, that the people are destitute of literary taste. 

Among these readers there are some whose lives have been de- 
voted to the acquisition of knowledge, such as Mr. Metevier, and 



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254 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

F. B. Tupper, Osmond Priaulx and Paul Dobree, whose names 
are not confined to the narrow limits of the Island, but are known 
to men of science and literature throughout Europe ; men who do 
honor to their country by their mental acquisitions. A frequent 
visitor to the libraries and to the fields where the rural population 
were engaged in cultivating their crops, and to the extensive stone 
quarries in the vale parish and other spots where work was progress- 
ing, we could but admire the quiet demeanor, industry and intelli- 
gence of the laborers and were happy to learn that they did not 
labor in vain. Few working classes in Europe are better off than 
those of Guernsey ; who have comparatively little to complain of. 
They are well paid, and are in comfortable circumstances when 
moderately prudent. Provisions and other necessaries of life are 
cheap in comparison with the prices in England, and this class de- 
posit out of their modest earnings considerable sums in the savings 
banks. Much has been done by the more intelligent and pro- 
gressive portion of the people to amuse and instruct the working 
classes, and by lectures, penny readings and other pastimes, in 
which there is a judicious leaven of amusement, to draw them off 
from restaurants, gin palaces, and other objectionable evening re- 
sorts. The plan met with much success, and the rooms where 
they occurred were crowded week after week. The attractiveness 
•of these reunions was increased by the addition of music and sing- 
ing. Regarding the movement as wise and well intentioned, it 
gave us pleasure to encourage them by accepting, from time to 
time, invitations to preside over them. On one particular occa- 
sion, the following is the brief report of what occurred, taken from 
the "Guernsey Star," (Newspaper). 

st. jomn's readings. 

The first of these interesting and instructive meetings was held 
yesterday in the St. John's Hoy's School, the chair being taken 
by Col. Peyton, who, on this occasion, spoke in able and eloquent 
terms of the advantages of education, his whole speech from be- 
ginning to end, evincing signs of deep and careful thought, and 
drawing from the audience continued and hearty applause. His re- 
marks were in substance as follows: 

Col. Peyton said that concurring very heartily in the object 
sought to be secured by the St. John's Society, he had readliy 
consented to take the chair upon this occasion. No one regretted, 
however, more than himself that the Committee was under the 
necessity of extending the invitation to him, as this was due to the 
fact that his friend, Mr. Blundell, was unable to occupy the chair. 
He had usually done so the past season, but was prevented now 
by the melancholy cause of ill health. This amiable and accom- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 255 

plished gentleman had contributed so much, said Col. Peyton, to 
the success of these reunions by his zeal and energy, by the ox- 
tent and variety of his knowledge and the popular character of his 
lectures, that his absence this Winter would be seriously felt, not 
only by the Committee of Management, whose labors he smoothed 
and lightened, but yet more by the large and appreciative audi- 
ences his name and fame always brought together in this Hall. 
Since, however, we are unfortunately deprived of Mr. Blundell's 
valuable services, he was glad to supply his place on this occasion, 
and he trusted it would not be long before we had the pleasure to 
see him once more in renewed health and strength, occupying his 
accustomed position on this platform. 

Having said this much, Colonel Peyton remarked that he might 
very well resume his seat, but he would probably be excused, if he 
availed himself o( the opportunity to say a few words in regard 
to the laudable objects sought to be attained by this and similar 
societies ; namely, the amusement and instruction of the people. 

No truth was more fully recognized nowadays, than that the 
people must in self defence be educated. It is justly considered 
necessary to their protection, as well from foes within as without. 
Prom the indigenous vandal or gamin, who, according to Lord 
Macaulav. is growing up under the shadow of our Churches, Uni- 
versities. Libraries and Museums, as from the foreign invader, who 
would, on the first appearance of weakness, seek to overrun and 
desolate the land . In modern times no ignorant and unenlight- 
ened people, how numerous and spirited soever, are secure in the 
presence of a valiant and educated enemy. The history of the 
recent Franco-German war forcibly illustrated this axiom. The 
total defeat and overthrow of the French armies, so distinguished 
in history for their prowess, the breakdown of the government 
more characterized under the second Empire b}. T an intriguing 
spirit than a wise diplomacy, and the volatile character of the peo- 
ple, a trait aggravated by their ignorance and superstition, rend- 
ered them all but helpless in presence of their educated and en- 
terprising enemy 

A prudent statesmanship deeply impressed with these occur- 
rences, is seeking, for forewarned is forearmed, toj provide 
nst the repetition of such disastrous history on British soil — 
not so much by heavy ordnance, numerous battalions, strong 
fortresses and iron clads, though these precautions are not neg- 
lected, as by popular education. 

Colonel Peyton said that he was inculcating no new lessons. 
Nearly Soo years before Christ, Hosea, one of the minor prophets, 
declared, ' ' My people are desk oyedfor lack of knowledge'' And 
it cannot be doubted that the ignorance of the Jewish people be- 



256 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

* 

trayed them into many crimes and consequent miseries. And 
this has been the history of other nations and other and later 
times, as it is sure to be that of every nation and people who 
neglect a matter of such gravity. History, like everything hu- 
man, continued the Colonel, was undergoing a revolution. The 
idea formerly attached to history was that it was a kind of biog- 
raphy of kings and nobles so written as to inspire a reverence for 
the Divine and hereditary wisdom. The battles in which these 
heroes fought were described by particular scenery in which kings 
had cloven the skulls of their antagonists with the battle axe, or 
had fought with superhuman pertinacity and success. The world 
has become tired of such histories, of such fancy pictures. The 
peoples were forgotten in the accounts of battles which they 
fought and where they died by thousands. They were not al- 
lowed to appear in tournaments, whose silken tents their hands 
wrought, whose queens of beauty their skill arrayed in brilliant 
costumes. It was forgotten who built the castle where the petty 
lord displayed his tyranny, or the vast cathedral towering like a 
glorious dream from earth to Heaven. How the people pro- 
gressed from slavery to liberty, how the arts advanced from the 
rudeness of earlier times had been passed over, totally ignored, 
though all the spacious, magnificent, .the vast and wonderful ex- 
hibitions of human enterprise, with which the world is covered, 
we owe to toil, to the goddess of poverty. 

Sir Walter Scott first broke the sleep of history in his novels, 
and history has assumed a truer and nobler position. It is now 
written in a different spirit, the people are viewed in a more be- 
coming light and awarded their real position. All the merit is 
not now given to the warrior and statesman — the artist, the me- 
chanic and the philosopher come in for their share. It is known 
and acknowledged, at least among Anglo-Saxons the world over, 
that the source of all political power is the people and the source 
of all national wealth their industry- Hence their was in Amer- 
ica, statues to the tallow chandler's son, Franklin, who in the lan- 
guage of Manilius, as applied by Turgot, 'Snatched the lightning 
from Heaven and the sceptre from tyrants." And in England to 
Sir Humphrey Davy, the son of a Cornish wood-carver, whose 
discoveries in chemistry have surrounded his name with extraor- 
dinary brilliancy ; and since the Crimean war, monuments to the 
guardsmen as well as officers. This more just appreciation of the 
people and what is due to them, is a happy omen of the future. 
The Omnipitent has taught us the unity of the race, not only by 
creating us in his own image, but by declaring that he has made 
of one blood all the nations of the earth. Who then with any 
broad human svmpathy and Christianity can look upon the face oi 



RAMBLING REMINISCEXSES. 257 

a fellow human being, however destitute, degraded and despised, 
without recognizing in him a brother sprung from the same 
origin and inheriting the same immortal destiny. 

Let us, therefore, unite in our humble way, in the good work of 
providing a proper moral and intellectual training for the masses. 
The good and wise of this country and America have long sought 
to accomplish this mission by scattering abroad the> treasures of 
knowledge by bringing useful information within the reach of all, 
and thus to exalt, to teach and to bless mankind. One of the 
most eminent laborers in this field was the late Lord Brougham, 
who, as principal founder and promoter of the society for the dif- 
fusion of useful knowledge, and author of many articles in the 
Penny Magazine, did yeoman's service in the cause. The chair- 
man regretted that he had not been able to procure in the island a 
copy of the works of this great scholar, essayist, historian, lawyer, 
and statesman, else he might have quoted many eloquent passages 
in support of the general proposition which he had enunciated, 
namely, that intellectual advancement was the sure forerunner of 
moral improvement ; that we had but to make the people wiser, 
to refine and make them better. 

"We owe it," said Colonel Peyton, "no less to ourselves than to 
society, that we should shed abroad the light of education. By 
education he did not mean the simple poring over books, but the 
whole process by which we draw forth the powers and capacities 
of the human mind into full and free activity ; and it is just in pro- 
portion^ the inward and originally slumbering powers of the in- 
tellect are drawn out, that man rises above the sphere of a mere 
physical existence and comes to be guided by his reason, his con- 
science and his feelings. 

Such societies as this were laboring successfully in one direction 
by uniting oral instruction with rational amusement during hours 
when the most laborious have a little leisure. The long evenings 
of winter cannot be spent here, where instructive lectures are de- 
| livered, well selected extracts from good books — books through 
which the current of wisdom flows — are read and sweet music is 
discoursed without a certain cultivation and refinement of both 
mind and heart following. This is a great result to obtain ; there is 
another. It by the attractive character of these entertainments 
you keep a single individual from the seductions and charms of 
the public houses, from the hardening and degrading influences 
of the gaming table, or if you prevent one from dissipating his 
time in strenuous idleness, your labors will not have been in vain. 
All success, then, to your society. (Loud cheers followed this 
address.) 

On another occasion, namely, the 25th of March, 1875, we pre- 



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258 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

sided over a meeting of the Workingmen's Association, at their 
rooms in Pollet street, of which the following is a brief report as it 
appeared in ths Guernsey Star of the following day ; 

LECTURE ON ELECTRICITY — WORKING MEN'S ASSOCIATION — 
REMARKS BY COLONEL J. L. PEYTON. 

A lecture on electricity was delivered last Tuesday evening by 
Mr. Power at the Temperance Hall Pollet, in connexion with the 
working Mens' Association. The chair was occupied by Col. Pey- 
ton, who expressed his gratification at being able to introduce to 
the audience, as lecturer, a gentleman of theoretical knowledge 
and practical experience in everything having reference to the sci- 
ence of electricity, and the useful purposes to which it has been 
and is likely to be applied — in a word, an electrician sons tons les 
rapports. Many of those present were doubtless acquainted with 
the history of electricity; with the tact that it was known to 
the ancients, though their knowledge was so limited that it served 
no useful purpose, but rather tended to increase the superstition of 
those primitive times. Thales, of Miletus, knew the effect pro- 
duced by the friction of amber and other bodies, and the fact is 
mentioned by Theophrates nearly 315 years before the birth o\~ 
Christ. Plin}' also informs us of the knowledge of animal electricity 
possessed by the Romans — of its possession not only by the Tor 
pedo, but by other fish, and also by the human body. It is re- 
lated by writers of old. that certain ancient philosophers, when 
dressing and undressing, emitted occasionally certain crackling 
sparks, and of one it is said that his body emitted flames without 
burning his clothes. To a people prone to place ignorant reliance 
in omens and prognostics, to believe blindly in supernatural ap- 
pearances, there was enough in such phenomena to excite their 
wonder and stimulate their belief in false religions. In the Middle 
Ages some scanty knowledge of this subtle principle was possessed 
by the monks, but the world hardly began to emerge from its 
general ignorance on the subject until the day of Gilbert, who in 
1660, by some new discoveries, added much to our stock of knowl- 
edge ; and afterwards Boyle, and then Newton, who first construct- 
ed an electric machine of glass, extended this knowledge. After 
Newton, followed Hawshee, Dufay, Leyden, Weston, and others, 
who still further illustrated the subject by their discoveries; but it 
was reserved forthe American philosopher, his fellow countryman, 
Franklin, to raise electricity to the dignity of a science, and to 
connect it with the thunderbolt, which he not only disarmed of its 
terrors, but brought down and converted into a useful element. 
Since then Faraday and others have made many valuable discov- 
eries and now it is recognized as one of the most potent and val- 



RAMP, LING REMINISCENCES. 259 

liable agencies with which the world is acquainted. We constantly 
hear of electro-chemistry, electro dynamics, electro-magnetism, 
electro type, electro plate, electro-telegraphy, &c, words that de- 
note the connection of the sciences and substances with electricity. 
Of electricity, the Colonel asserted that it might be generally said, 
that it enters the sick chamber and proves more efficacious than the 
warm breath of Spring in restoring health to the prostrate frame ; 
raising up from the bed of despair the benumbed and helpless par- 
alytic, and once more nerving him for the contests of the world ; 
that by its aid we write our letters, transmitting them in an instant 
across the widest seas ; by it we will construct the simple instru- 
ments of peaceful industry, and forge the thunderbolts of war, 
blow up the fortresses, sink the fleets and scatter the armies of our 
enemies. "But," said Colonel Peyton, "I will not pursue this in- 
teresting subject further, tempting as it is, but give way to the lec- 
turer, whose particular task it is tonight, and who is far better 
qualified to do it justice in all its bearings. 

"The Chairman sat down amidst loud applause and was followed 
by the lecturer," 

PHYSICAL FEATURES, FORMER STATE, ETC. 

After having said so much of the manners and customs of the 
•pie, it will not bo amiss to bestow a few further remarks on the 
Island they inhabit, its soil, climate, scenery and its former con- 
dition, religion, etc. 

The Island of Guernsey is about nine miles long and five wide, 
contains about 15,500 acres, two thirds of which is under cultiva- 
tion, and a population of 30,000 souls. It is nearly in the shape of 
a right angle triangle, the highest point being 300 feet above the 
level of the sea. The Northern parishes, St. Sampson and the vale 
are low and flat, while the Southern and Eastern, called the high 
parishes, are elevated and broken, presenting a line of rug 
cliffs to the sea. These cliffs be^in in St. Peter-port, extend to 
the sea in St. Martin's, and thence South and South east through 
the Forest. St. Andrews, St. Peters-in the wood and Tort- 
The bays are very beautiful, so much so that it is not unusual to 
hear gushing maidens style them heavenly. The sea in these bays 
seems literally to sleep in the arms of the shore. The most ro- 
mantic and admired are Fermain, Munlin Huet, and Petit Bot 
bays, all of which are defended by Martello towers. The vallies 
abound in lovely scenery, and the soil is everywhere singularly 
fertile. The water lanes are a feature in the scenery. The most beau- 
tiful are water lane in St. Martin's and that in the Couture nearer 
town. The farms are from three to thirty acres in size, the largest 
form in the Island, the Vaubelets, having 30 acres, and the fields 



26o RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

do not average more than an acre. They are divided by embank- 
ments of earth on which furze grows luxuriantly; this furz is used 
for heating the ovens for baking. There are few gates, but the en- 
trance to a field is guarded by a bar placed across from two stone 
pillars, The usual crops are hay, turnips, carrots, potatoes, man- 
golds, wheat, oats, and barley. The ground is plowed by a large 
trench plow drawn by four or sometimes six horses one after the 
other, or by oxen — the formers unite in this work each leading a 
horse. Nobody, however, well off owns six horses, often not even 
one. Great attention is paid to their cows, which are, as we have 
said, larger than in any of the Islands, and are evidently the blend- 
ing of blood in early days. For many years the races have been 
kept distinct, and the improvement, in all the Island, is strictly 
within the lines of pure breeding. They are deep milkers and 
high colored, the prevailing color being a rich fawn, with much 
white laid on in large patches. When they dry off they fatten ea- 
sily and make excellent beef. There is a difference of opinion as 
to the value of the Guernsey and Jersey cows. It is an open 
question whether the cows of Jersey or Guernsey are the best. 
While the Guernsey cattle are the largest of the channel Islands 
breed, for symmetry, the palm is awarded to those of Jersey. The 
former do not vary so much in color as the latter, but they are 
usually red and white. It is the custom to tether cattle when out. 
The produce of the Jersey and Guernsey cows average the same, 
for, although the greatest rivalry on this point exists between the 
farmers of both Islands, on investigation it will be found that the 
amounts of produce correspond. The fattening of oxen is carried 
on in both Islands to a certain extent, and it may be computed 
that one-sixth of the supply of meat is fed on the Island. 

The waters surrounding Guernsey abound in fish, of which the 
most prized are turbot, brill, John Doray, plaice, sole, lobsters, 
crabs, ormers and shrimps, and two eels — the one small, called the 
sand eel, the other the conger, weighing often 30 pounds. The 
peasantry esteem the conger eel highly, and salt it as they do 
the sand eel for winter use, and as it sells for only one penny a 
pound it is a boon to them. The cancer crab, sometimes called 
the Guernsey crab, is one of the most delicate, highly flavored and 
delicious crustaceous fish ever eaten. It is in great demand in 
England and France and fetches a high price. As may be readily 
imagined, the people draw a large part of their support from the sea* 

THE ISLAND ONE HUNDRED YEARS AGO. 

It now remains for us to gtve a slight idea of the changes the 
Island has experienced during the last century. Within this pe- 
riod it has emerged from a very rude and primitive condition. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 26t 

In 1770 the Governor lived in a mean, comfortless old house — 
this miserable building is still standing on Tower hill, and is now 
called the haunted house, and is tenanted by laborers in common 
with bats and owls ; and the garrison consisted of only four compa- 
nies of invalids. There were no barracks and many of the soldiers 
lived in the town and as there were no drills or other military 
duties to be performed, some of them acted as porters, by way 
of gaining a few pennies The Royal Court held its sittings in a 
storeroom, and the public records were kept in the cottage of the 
Greffier. and prisoners were confined in the fort. The meat 
and vegetable markets were held in the open streets on Saturdays. 
There was only one teacher in Elizabeth College, and the theatre 
was a store room in which roving actors performed about Once in 
every four years. The shipping of the Island consisted of one 
ship, four brigs and a few sloops and cutters. The land trans- 
portation was done by oxen and ponies. The shops were small, 
low and dark, and scantily supplied. There were three or four 
small breweries and some small factories of rope, tobacco and 
candles. Barley bread was used six days in the week, wheaten 
on Sundays, as a treat. There was no printing press, newspaper, 
or druggist, and not a greenhouse. Little butcher's meat was 
eaten, the inhabitants living principally on fish, conger eels, and 
vegetables. There was no post office. The Sixtys then resided 
in High, Cornet, Smith and Pollet streets — usually dined at one 
o'clock, tead at four and supped at nine o'clock. 

F. B. Tupper's history, from which these particulars are derived, 
goes on to say, these early hours extended, in some measure, even 
to company ; and notwithstanding, the inhabitants maintained a 
constant social intercourse, as the money which is now spent in 
general entertainments, and in carriage hire, was then devoted to 
more frequent, genuine, and rational hospitality. It must be add- 
ed, however, that the convivial meetings of the gentlemen, who had 
few amusements, or intellectual resources, were often stained by 
hard drinking, a vice prevalent in Great Britain and Ireland at 
that time. Unhappily, also, the marriage of near relations was 
very frequent, although that of first cousins was pronounced un- 
christian by the Colloquy in 1591, and the ill effects are manifest 
to this day in many families, The public assemblies were held 
weekly, in a large room at the bottom of the Pollet ; and the ladies 
were not the less joyous, or the less lovely, because they v. 
to parties in hoods and pattens; indeed, it was not until after the 
peace of 1815, that hack carriages were introduced. 

The language of all classes in their own families was, with few 
exceptions, either French or Guernsey French, chiefly the latter ; 
but the upper classes could speak English, as they were generally 



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262 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

educated in England, where these Islands were then as little known 
as the Orkneys are now. 

The roads throughout the Island were mere lanes, only wide 
enough for a cart, but the greater part had a narrow, high foot- 
path, and when two carts met, one had to go into a field, or in a 
recess called gensage, to allow the other to pass ; these lanes were, 
moreover, extremely rough, and often flooded in Winter, and 
very muddy during the rains of Summer. 

In consequence, the inhabitants of the country had so little in- 
tercourse with each other, or with the town, that their parishes 
could be discovered by their different accents. It must be con- 
fessed, however, that the lanes formed a most agreeable shady 
walk for pedestrians in Summer, as the high hedges on either side 
were planted with trees, and covered with wild primroses, violets 
and harebells. The gentlemen who cultivated their own small 
estates, usually dined in the kitchen with their farm servants who 
sat below the salt, as did the retainers of the lairds in Scotland at 
that time: One of these gentlemen, of ancient family, — Mr. Chas. 
Andros, who resided at Les Piques in St. Saviour's Parish, — was 
the Lieut-Bailiff, a man of good property, and highly respected. 
Carriages were almost useless, as excursions were necessarily made 
on foot, or on horseback, and the few which existed were either 
open gigs or close vehicles on two wheels, substantially construct- 
ed without springs, the horse in the latter being always led, not 
driven. It was about this time that Lieut. -Governor Irving intro- 
duced the first four-wheel close carriage, with a pair of horses, ever 
seen in the island. t 

Thus in 1775, Guernsey was essentially unimproved, badly cul- 
tivated, and without easy means of communication, either exter- 
nally or internally. We have said that parties met at an early hour, 
and even as late as the year 1796, at a ball and supper given by the 
gentlemen of the island, at the Assembly rooms in St. Peters-port, 
to Major- General Small and the officers of the garrison, on the 18th 
day of January, to celebrate the Queen's birth day, "the compa- 
ny/', was requested, "to assemble at six o'clock." The late King 
William IV, while Prince William Henry, visited Guernsey twice, 
the first time as a midshipman in the Hebe frigate, and the second 
in command of the Pegassus, of 28 guns. On the latter occasion 
a ball, apparently without a supper, to prepare which there prob- 
ably was not time, was given to him by the Guernsey gentlemen, 
on the 7th of June, 1786, the entire cost for nearly two hundred 
persons present being only ,£36.4 58 or 14s. 6d. per head for the 
50 gentlemen who subscribed, as we learn by a copy of the ac- 
count : twenty- five years later, balls and suppers given to the naval 
and military officers cost about ^500, so great was the sad change 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCKS. 263 

effected in a few years by a large garrison and squadron, and a 
greater intercourse with strangers. 

In reviewing the state of Guernsey, just 100 years ago, we must 
not forget that both England and France, the pioneers of Euro- 
pean civilization, were then very far behind what they now are in 
roads, buildings, equipages, literary gratifications, and other com- 
forts and elegancies of life. The steam engine has since given an 
impetus to every species of improvement, which might otherwise 
have lain dormant for another century. England was covered with 
almost Egyptian darkness The state of the established church 
and the conduct of most of its bishops and ministers would now 
be considered lamentable. Highwaymen invested the public roads 
and education was so little diffused that the lower orders were de- 
plorably ignorant and brutal. All these are notorious facts. One 
of our informants remembered, when he was at school at South- 
ampton, in 1775, that the stage coaches, of which there were only 
two, set out thence for London at four o'clock, a. m , and reached 
their destination at nine o'clock, p. in. Even more than thirty 
years afterwards, the coaches were thirteen or fourteen hours per- 
forming the same distance. Now the journey is performed in less 
than three hours by rail. The mode of living in Scotland at the 
same period was very similar and by way of soothing the minds 
of his Guernsey readers at the truthful picture he drew of them 
and their antecedents, Mr. Tupper quotes these lines from Cham- 
ber'sjournal : "The accommodations possessed by families of good 
figure, in Scotland, were generally limited to three or four rooms, 
not more than one of which would be unfurnished with a bed. Of 
the middle ranks, most lived in bed rooms. Arrangements, now 
deemed indispensable, were unknown " Mr. Tupper, who was a 
perfectly veracious man, did not intend that the truth should be dis- 
guised because it was not palatable to some of his countrymen, and 
proceeds to say that in 1804, a gentleman of an ancient Guernsey 
family and a Jurat, sat in his parlor, which had a dirt floor and 
little furniture. He was, says he, the second richest man in the 
island, from which it is quite evident that the first in wealth* was 
no Croesus. The Guersey historian goes on to say that three of 
his sons became general officers, the fourth a Jurat, the fifth the 
Dean of Guernsey and the sixth, the Receiver-General, or tax 
gatherer of the island, while one of the daughters married a distin- 
guished Major-General and was the mother of a baronet. (See 
Tupper's history of Guernsey, p. 404.) 

Mr. Tupper was a pronounced democrat in his political opinions, 
which he is said to have imbibed during his long residence in 
North America, and cultivated a certain republican simplicity in 
his manners and habits. -In the above account of the lurat and his 



264 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 






descendants, it crops out, however, unintentionally, that there was 
nevertheless in Mr. Tupperthe usual English latent love of a lord; 
since in his opinion the crowning- sucess of the floorless tenant's 
family was his daughter's bearing a son who became a baronet, or 
a little Baron. 

In a historical point it is not necessary to add to what we have 
said, more than that the Channel Island group of which Guernsey 
is the most important, with the single exception of Jersey, are the 
only remains of all the former Norman possessions of England, and 
these islands have followed the fortunes of England in all changes 
of religion and government. Their transfer from the Bishop oi 
Coutance to the diocese of Winchester was effected only in A. D. 
1500 by a bull of Pope Alexander VI, long after England had 
ceased to hold any part of Continental France. 

Long as the island has been known it can boast of few antiquities. 
Such as exist are of Druidical and Celtic origin. The ruins of 
Vale Castle are the most interesting monuments of the more re- 
cent past. Mr. Lukis has a private museum containing many ar- 
chaeological and other curiosities taken from the Cromlechs of the 
islands — in it there is much unburnt pottery, many stone weapons 
taken from excavations, where there were found many human 
bones, etc. 

The climate is mild, equable and salubrious — the mean temper- 
ature in summer being 59 and of winter 43 Far. or about the cli- 
mate of Nubia. 

Guernsey is fairly well watered with small springs and little rivu- 
lets which find their way through the valleys to the sea. The soil is 
carefully cultivated and is very productive — the yield being in- 
creased by the application annually of large quantities of sea weed, 
or vraic to the ground, the fertilizing properties of which are remark- 
able. Fruit and vegetables are the principal crops, though some 
wheat is grown and a considerable part of the land is reserved for 
pasture, where one sees the Guernsey variety, of what is known in 
America as the Alderney cow, or more recently the Jersey cow. 
There is little difference between the cows in any of the Channel 
islands and in America it is now the rule to class them all as Jer- 
seys. This is our opinion, though some persons will tell you that 
the Guernsey cows, which are the largest in the Channel Islands, are 
asdifferent from the Jerseys as is the Ayrshire from the Devon. 
There is also a fine breed ol diminutive horses which originally 
came from France. They are strong and mettlesome. Though 
small they are well formed and some of them beautiful — there are 
no mules, but a few asses and some goats. There is no timber in 
the island, only a few shade trees in Cambridge Park and round 
about country houses, and the fuel of the peasants is gorse, that of 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 265 

the wealthy classes coals brought from Newcastle and Wales. The 
grape only conies to perfection under glass and no wine and little 
cider is made, though the apple grows well but not in sufficient 
quantities to be manufactured into cider. The pears are extreme- 
ly good, especially the Chaumontel, which is peculiar to the Island. 
There are no manufactories of iron, cloth, paper, or other articles 
with the exception of a small factory in the Pollet of candies, jams 
and sweet meats, and in the country a few mills for grinding corn 

RELIGION, PAST AND PRESENT, ETC. 

The people are pronounced protestants and great respect is 
paid to religion by all classes. Many of them are enthusiastic 
I christians and illustrate in their lives and conduct, that human soci- 
eties do not contain the entire man: that there remains in him the 
J noblest part of himself— those lofty faculties by which he soars to 
! God, to a future life, to unknown blisses in an invisible world. 
' These are his religious convictions, that true grandeur of man, 
the consolation and charm of weakness and misfortune, the invio- 
lable refuge against the tyrannies of this world. 

The island is divided into twelve parishes with a Rector for 
■ each, several curates for the chapels of ease; a handsome Cath- 
olic Church and a number of churches for the various sects who 
I are dissenters, or non- conformists.* The church of the town 
parish is well worth a visit. It is very old, ornamented with 
I many fine tablets and monuments, and is altogether the finest 
; ecclesiastical building in the Channel Islands. The oldest church 
I building, now in ruins, is the Chapel ol St. Apolline. 

As far back as 1603-20 there was much dissent in the Channel 
island group and to counteract it James I appointed a strong 
churchman, Sir John Peyton. Governor of Jersey. The following 
is the account of it in Tupper's History of Guernsey, pp. 195-196. 
"The circumstances which led to the appointment of Sir John 
Peyton to the Governorship of Jersey, are not without interest as 
throwing light upon the religious condition of both Jersey and 
Guernsey at this period, and may be briefly and not inappropri 
ately referred to at this point. On the accession of James I., the 
Church in Guernsey and Jersey was in a distracted condition, the 
principles of Calvin, having to a considerable extent taken root 
in both Islands. As early as 1555 Calvin had declared, in his 
epistle to the English Church in Frankfort, that he had observed 
in the 'public Liturgy many tolerable vanities, the relicts oi the 

*A dissenter is one who differs in opinion and separates from the service of 

the Church of England. 'I he non-conformist is one who doe:> not differ in 

opinion on theological points, but refuses lo conform to the rites and modes of 
worship of the established church. 






266 RAMBLING REM1NISCENSES. 

filth of Popery, and there was not in it such piety as was expect- 
ed.' These views of the eminent reformer and founder of the 
Calvinistic sect, were adopted by numerous inhabitants of Guern- 
sey and Jersey, particularly among the lower orders. On Sundays 
there was a slim attendance at the Parish Churches, 'a beggarly 
account of empty boxes,' in the way of empty pews— and even 
those who were regularly at divine worship, from motives of 
worldly policy, lauded the greatness of Calvin's character, while 
studiously avoiding any open declaration of adherence to the relig- 
ious creed promulgated by him. All this was extremely distaste- 
ful to the orderly and orthordox mind of the new King, for while 
James had lived among the Scotch Presbyterians, he was not of 
them. This truth soon became painfully apparent to the Puri- 
tans, who had, anterior to the death of Elizabeth, entertained san- 
guine hopes of aid and comfort from him. These expectations 
were now dashed, and they had another illustration of the wisdom 
of the oft quoted biblical aphorism : 'Place not your trust in 
Princes.' The King evinced a determined purpose to reinstate 
the bishops in their ancient power and place, and to establish in 
all the reformed Churches, unity of religion and .uniformity of de 
votion. With this view, when Raleigh was attainted of treason, 
his Majesty appointed Sir John Peyton, of Doddington, Co. Cam- 
bridge, Governor of Jersey, to whom he entrusted the task of 
bringing back the straying Jerseymen to the fold of the Church 
of England. King James could scarcely have found one more 
peculiarly fitted for the responsible duty entrusted to his diplo- 
macy than Sir John Peyton. Sir John had been previously Lieut 
enant-Governor of the Tower and a member of the Privy Council 
of Elizabeth. He was conspicuous at once for the dignity of his 
birth and the vigour of his intellect ; for the extent of his learning 
and the orthordoxy of his religious opinions, and was. says I e 
Quesne, 'A man of great spirit and determination.' He was, in 
the language of an old writer, 'Educated in the politest manner 
of the age he lived in. by serving in the wars of Flanders under 
the most able and experienced soldiers and politicians of that time.' 
Amidst the sunshine of the courts of Elizabeth and James I, and 
the affluence of a large fortune, his conduct was so regular and 
temperate, that his life was prolonged to the age of ninety nine 
years in so much health and vigor that he rode on horse back 
hunting three or four days before his death. Heylin thus relates 
the downfall of Presbyterianism in Jersey under the administra 
tion of Sir John Peyton. The rector of St. John Parish being 
dead, the Colloquy appointed 'one Brown' (so called by Heylin), 
to succeed him, and carried their point, although the Governor — 
who by his patent held the presentation of all the livings in Jersey, 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 267 

deanery excepted — protested against the nomination. Soon after 
wards, the Governor, who was well inclined to further the things 
wished, and Marret, the prociireur du roi, forwarded several com- 
plaints to the Council against the Colloquy, declaring that that 
body had usurped the patronage of all the benefices in the island, 
and praying the King to grant them such a form of discipline and 
church government as would prevent the repetition of similar 
abuses. These complaints were referred to the two royal cum- 
missioners just named, Gardner and Hussey, when the clergy 
contended that their right of appointment to the Ministry, " and 
their exercises of ecclesiastical jurisdiction, had been confirmed 
to them by his Majesty. While the questions at issue were pend- 
ing, disputes occurred between the clergy and the laity ; and the 
Royal Court annulled the sentences pronounced by the consistory, 
which was moreover accused of holding secret and treasonable 
meetings. The parish of St. Peter becoming void, Sir John Pey- 
ton presented it in 1 6 1 3 , to a clergyman named Messervey, who 
had resided at Oxford, and was patronized by the Bishop of that 
See. The colloquy refused his admission, chiefly on account of his 
having been ordained by that prelate, as to accept Messervey 
seemed to them almost an acknowledgment of episcopacy. After 
considerable trouble growing out of these matters, Jersey was 
brought under the polity and ritual of the Church of England, and 
forty years later Guernsey." 

At the period of our second visit to the island the very Rev. J. 
Guille was dean and rector of St. Peter-port. He was a good 
preacher, pastor and man. The more distinguished of the rectors 
were Rev. Richard J. Ozanne, a most kind, sympathetic and hos 
pitable man ; Rev. C. D. P. Robinson, of St. Martin's, and Rev. 
J. Geraud, of St. Saviours. These three were very strong men able 
theologians, eloquent preachers, and men of true piety. The 
remaining nine Rectors were hardly above mediocrity in talents or 
acquirements, but like their more distinguished colleagues were 
diligent in the performance of their duties, seizing the opportuni- 
ties which their situation affords to noble minds and pure hearts for 
the exercise of active virtue. By their pastoral visits to all, espe- 
cially to the lowly cottagers, they exerted their greatest powers, 
guiding the mother's hand in rearing her children and teaching 
them the important lessons of religious education and domestic 
economy, awakening by kind praise the ambition of the young, 
and soothing with lenient hand the sorrows of the old. In such 
pccupations they exalt the character of their calling and extend 
its benefits, shedding upon the poor blessings which mitigate 
their wants and proverty. teaching them that in religion they can 
truly nnd the compensation of all their difficulties and trials. 



268 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

They thus made themselves fathers of the people, and while em- 
ploying their benevolence in guiding them in peace through 
things temporal, with higher christian benevolence guiding them 
in hope to things eternal. They thus made up for want of bril- 
liant intellectual parts and other deficiencies, and' if not all that 
could be wished, were at least acceptable to their flocks. 

The reader will find in appendix C. the names of all Guernsey- 
men who have been prominent in literature and in the public service 
from 1600 to the present day. 

During our repeated visits and long sojourns in Guernsey we 
made many friends whom we most highly valued and shall ever 
cherish in affectionate remembrance. Among them was Lady 
Carey, the amiable and accomplished wife of Sir Stafford Carey, 
and a relative of the poet and ecclesiastical author, Dr. Jonathan 
Shipley, bishop of St. Asaph, from 1769 to his death in 1789. 
Lady Carey had in her possession twenty letters in the hand wri- 
ting of Dr. Benjamin Franklin, and one from his nephew, Jonathan 
Williams, which she derived from an aunt to whom they were 
given at Dr. Shipley's death, and which she placed in our hands to 
be disposed of as we saw fit. Unwilling to retain the originals we 
had them carefully copied and now give them, after a quarter of a 
century, to the American public, who have always manifested an 
extraordinary interest in everything relating to the wonderful man 
by whom they were written — a man whose whole conduct and 
writings, indeed, present the somewhat singular union of great 
genius united to practical good sense, and of singular worldly 
shrewdness, with the loftiest integrity of principle. No honors 
could make him forget or deviate from the principles with which 
he started life. Remembering his own humble origin and subse- 
quent rise, he rightly considered every man as originally equal as 
regarded real intrinsic worth, and equally by precept and example 
contributed more than any one whatever, to breaking down those 
invidious bars to eminence and success in life, which the conven- 
tional habits and artificial feelings of society had heretofore inter- 
posed to the elevation of those unblessed by birth and fortune. 
(For these letters see appendix B.) 

To Guernsey, the so called England of the channel Islands, we 
must now say farewell, and with no small regret. We love her and 
her people, and love to recall the happy days spent on her shores. 
No Americanshouldfail to visit "sweet little Guernsey." Its climate, 
its scenery, its history, its inhabitants, its manners and customs, its 
ancient laws and institutions, its antiquities, its Druidical and Celtic 
remains, its monuments, its language, its learning and' culture, 
combine to make it for the Western traveler one of the most in- 
teresting spots in the old world. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 269 



APPENDICES 



APPENDIX A, 

TREES. 

LINES BY GEORGES METEVIER. 
Suggested by reading "Over the Alleghanies," &c, by J. L. Peyton. 

Look at the sycamores of Blannerhasset, 

At their Titanic trunk, their stretch'd white arms, 

As, honour'd friend, John Lewis Peyton, has it, 
A scribe whose ev'ry line displays rare charms ! 

Still, how forget the tree on whose huge limbs. 

Tost in autumnal gales, unseen, alone, 
A boy once caroll'd warm faith's artless hymns, 

LulPd by the distant wave's incessant moan ? 

Long ere the houseless myriad, unrepell'd, 
Found here a refuge and o'erfiow'd the land, 

High and low, rich and poor, had firmly held 
A people's old hereditary band. 

We know each other, loyal, frank and true, 

Norman, or Angevine, or Aquitanian, 
And grey beards laugh at Cockneyland's mad crew, 

The Radical, the Chartist, and the Fenian. 

But what am I to them or they to me ? 

Nothing ; and this is all I wish to say. 
He who hews down God's image, our old tree, 

Is God's flint-hearted foe, think what he may. 

A name, a legend, record of the past, 

Marks, here and there, some giant undefiled, 

But with'ring infidelity's cold blast 
Annihilates the seraph and the child. 

The child ! Such was Mteonides, who won 
Truth's leafy diadem, though blind and poor, 

Such was that meek "Divine," the only one 
Who sits in his Lord's bosom evermore. 



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270 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

And if a truant in our elm's vast womb* 

Oft shelter'd innocence, why should he not, 
Joyous, near the green threshold of his tomb, 

Remember, as he prays, that holy spot ? 

Oak, ash, pine, hawthorn, kindly lent a name 

To worthy fathers whom the vulgar scorn, 
Each homestead's hearth wants its primaeval flame ; 

Where is eve's glory, hope's fond Angel, morn ? 

Aosdana. 
* "L'Orme du bas du Belle." 

Concerning this venerable elm. a volume of delicious reminiscences, even at 
this very late hour, might be said or sung. Sciolism would, peradventure, laugh 
at them. Did not, however, one of our early masters, a philosopher and a healer 
of souls as well as of bodies, warn pretenders who have neither traveled through 
the world of words nor through the world of facts, that "Nil arrogantius gram- 
matico est," — "c'est une bete frottee d'esprit." 

Let us therefore modestly reproduce the article "belle," from a Glossary 
printed at Jena, six years ago, an elaborate work of which the compiler, still a 
French scholar, never saw a single proof: — 

"Belle, s.m. Cour interieure attenant aux batiments." 

"Norm. bel. besle, boil, V. fr. boille, pour cour. jardin." 

"L'origine norse de ce terme so demontre par un article des Leges Scanioe, 
IV., I." 

"Toute la ville se divise en portions egales (partiones) qu : on appele Boel 
dans la langue maternelle " 

"II y a encore a Voiogne une petite place qui se nomrae le Eel-Pinaud ; la 
place qui etait au milieu du chateau de Caen etait aussi nommee le Besle." 
Dumeril. p 39. Voir le reste, p. 59 du Gloss. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 27 



APPENDIX B. 



[Dr. Franklin to the Lord Bishop of St. Asaph.] 

London, June 24th, 1771. 

My Lord : — I got home in good time and well. But on pe- 
rusing the letters that were come for me during my absence, and 
considering the business they require of me, I find it not conveni- 
ent to return so soon as I had intended. I regret my having been 
obliged to leave the pleasing society of your L's and family, 
and that most agreeable retirement good Mrs. Shipley put me so 
kindly in possession of. I now breath with reluctance the smoke 
of London, when I think of the sweet air of Twyford : And 
by the time your races are over, or about the middle of next 
month (if it should then not be unsuitable to your engagements or 
other purposes) I promise myself the happiness of spending anoth- 
er week or two where I so pleasantly spent the last. 

I have taken the liberty of sending by the Southampton stage, 
directed to your Lordship a parcel containing one of my books 
for Miss Georgiana, which I hope she will be good enough to ac- 
cept, as a small mark of my regard for her philosophic genius. 
And a specimen of the American dry'd apples for Mrs. Shipley, 
that she may judge whether it will be worth while to try the prac- 
tice. I should imagine that the sweet Summer apples which can- 
not otherwise be kept until Winter, are best to be thus preserved. 
I doubt some dust may have got among these, as I found the cask 
uncovered ; therefore it will not perhaps be amiss to rinse them a 
minute or two in warm water, and dry them quick in a napkin. 

With the greatest esteem and respect and many thanks for your 
and Mrs. Shipley's abundant civilities I am, my Lord, Your Lord- 
ship's obliged and most obedient humble servant. 

B. Franklin, 

P. S. The parcel is directed to be left at the Turnpike next be 
vond Winchester 



[Doctor Franklin to Mrs. Shipley, wife of the Bishop of St. Asaph.] 

London, Aug. 12, 1771. 
Dear Madam: — This is just to let you know that we arriv'd 
safe and well in Marlborough street, about six, where I deliver'd 
up my charge : — 



272 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

The above seems too short for a letter ; so I will lengthen it by a 
little account of our journey. The first stage we were rather pen- 
sive. I try'd several topics of conversation, but none, of them 
would hold. But after breakfast we began to recover spirits and 
had a good deal of chat. Will you hear some of it? We talked 
of her brother and she wished he was married. And don't you 
wish your sisters were married too ? Yes. All but Emily ; I 
would not have her married. Why ? Because I can't spare her, 
I can't part with her . The rest may marry as soon as they please, 
so they do but get good husbands. We then took upon us to 
consider for each what sort of husband would be fitted for every 
one of them. We began with Georgiana.* She thought a coun- 

*Miss Georgiana Shipley was the eldest daughter of the Bishop of St. Asaph 
and seems to have been Dr. Franklin's favorite in the family. It was to her that 
he addressed the following letter on her loss of her American Squirrel, who, es- 
caping from his cage, was killed by a Shepherd dog. 

London. Sept. 26, 1772. 
Dear Miss : — I lament with you most sincerely, the unfortunate loss of poor 
Mungo. Few squirrels were better accomplished ; for he had had a good edu- 
cation, had travelled far, and seen much of the world. As he had the honor of 
being, for his virtues, your favorite, he should not go, like common Skuggs, 
without an elegy or an epitaph. Let us give him one in the monumental stvle 
and measure, which has neither prose nor verse, is perhaps the properest for 
grief. Since to use common language would look as if we were not affected, 
and to make rhimes would seem trifling in sorrow. 

EPITAPH. 

Alas ! poor Mungo ! 
Happy wert thou hadst thou known 

Thy own felicity. 

Remote from the fierce bal'd eagle, 

Tyrant of thy native woods ; 

Thou hadst naught to fe # ar from his piercing talons. 

Nor for the murdering gun 

Of the thoughtless sportsman. 

Safe in thy wir'd castle. 

Grimalkin never could annoy thee. 

Daily wert thou fed with the choicest viands, 

By the fair hand of an indulgent mistress ; 

But discontented. 

Thou wouldst have more freedon : 

Too soon, alas ! didst thou obtain it ; 

And. wandering 

Thou art fallen by the fangs of wanton, cruel Ranger ! 

Learn hence, 

Ye who blindly seek more liberty, 

Whether subjects, song, squirrels, or daughters.. 

That apparant restraint may be real protection ; 

Yielding peace and plenty 

With security. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 273 

try gentleman, that lov'd travelling and would take her with him, 
that lov'd books and would hear her read to him ; I added, that 
had a good estate and was a member of Parliament and lov'd to 
see an experiment now and then. This she agreed to ; so we set 
him down for Georgiana and went on to Betsy. Betsy, says I, 
seems of a sweet, mild temper, and if we should give her a coun- 
try Squire, and he should happen to be of a rough, passionate 
turn, and be angry now and then, it might break her heart! O 
none of 'em must be so; for then they would not be good hus- 
bands. To make sure of this point, however, for Betsy, shall we 
give her a Bishop ? O no that won't do. They all declare against 
the church, and against the army ; not one of them will marry 
either a clergyman or an officer ; that they are resolved upon. 
What can be the reason for that ? Why you know, that when a 
clergyman or an officer dies, the Income goes with 'em ; and 
then what is there .to maintain the family ? there's the point. 
Then suppose we give her a good, honest, sensible city merchant 
who will love her dearly and is very rich ? I don't know but that 
may do We proceeded to Emily, her dear Emily, I was afraid 
we should hardly find anything good enough for Emily; but at 
last, after first settling that, if she did marry, Kitty was to 
live a good-deal with her ; we agreed that as Emily was very 
handsome we might expect an Earl for her. So having fix'd her, 
as I thought, a Countess, we went on to Anna Maria. She, says 
Kitty, should have a rich man that has a large Family and a great 
many things to take care of; for she is very good at managing, 
helps my Mama very much, can look over bills, and order all sorts 
of family business. Very well, and as there is a grace and dignity 
in her manner that would become the station, what do you think 
of giving her a Duke ? O no ! I'll have the Duke for Emily. 
You may give the Earl to Anna Maria if you please : But Emily 
shall have the Duke. I contested this matter some time ; but at 
length was forced to give up the point, leave Emily in possession 
of the Duke, and content myself with the Earl for Anna Maria. 

You see, my dear Miss, how much more decent and proper this broken style 
is, than if we were to say, by way of an epitaph, — 

Here Skugg 
Lies snug, 
As a bug 
In a rug, 
And yet, perhaps, there are people in the world of so little feeling as to think 
th.s would be a good-enough epitaph for poor Mungo. 

If you wish it, I shall procure another to succeed him; but perhaps you will 
now chouse some other amusement. 

Remember me affectionately to all the good family, and believe me ever your 
affectionate friend, B. Franklin. 



(69) 



274 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

And now what shall we do for Kitty ? We have forgot her, all 
this time. Well, and what will you do for her ? I suppose that 
though the rest have resolved against the army, she may not have 
made so rash a resolution. Yes, but she has : Unless now, an 
old one, an old general that has done fighting, and is rich, such a 
one as general Rupare ; I like him a good deal ; you must know 
that I like an old man, indeed I do . And some how or other all 
the old men take to me, all that come to our house like me better 
than my other sisters : I go to 'em and ask 'em how they do, and 
they like it mightily ; and the maids take notice of it, and say 
when they see an old man come, there's a friend of yours Miss 
Kitty. But then as you like an old General, hadn't you better 
take him while he's a young officer, and let him grow old upon 
your hands, because then, you'll like him better and better every 
year as he grows older and older. No, that won't do. He must 
be an old man of 70 or 80, and take me when I am about 30. And 
then you know I may be a rich young widow. 

We dined at Staines, she was Mrs. Shipley, cut up the chicken 
pretty handily (with a little direction) and helped me in a very 
womanly manner. Now, says she when I commended her, my 
father never likes to see me or Georgiana carve, because we do 
it, he says, so badly : But how should we learn if we never try ? 
We drank good papa and mama's health, and the healths of the 
Dutchess, the Countess, the merchant's lady, the country gentle- 
man, and our Welsh Brother. This brought their affairs again 
under consideration. I doubt, says she, we have not done right 
for Betsy. I don't think a merchant will do for her. She is 
much inclined to be a fine gentlewoman ; and is indeed already 
more of the fine gentlewoman, I think, than any of my other sis- 
ters ; and therefore she shall be a true Countess. 

Thus we chatted on and she was very entertaining quite to town. 

I have now made my letter as much too long as it was at first 
too short The Bishop would think it too trifling, therefore don't 
show it to him. I am afraid too that you will think it so and have 
a good mind not to send it. Only it tells you Kitty is well at 
school, and for that I let it go. My love to the whole amiable 
family, best respects to the Bishop and 1000 thanks for all your 
kindness, and for the happy days I enjoyed at Twyford. 

With the greatest esteem and respect 1 am Madam, Your most 
obed't humble servant. 

B. Franklin 






(Dr. Franklin to the Bishop of St. Asaph.] 

London, Aug. 15th, 1771. 
My Dear Lord.— Many thanks for your letters to the Primate 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 275 

and Mr. Jackson, which I shall take care to forward if I shall 
happen not to have an opportunity of delivering them personally. 

Your repeated kind invitations are extremely obliging. The 
enjoyment of your Lordship's conversation, good Mrs. Shipley's 
kind care of me sick and well, and the ever pleasing countenances 
of the whole amiable family towards me, make me always very 
happy when I am with you. But I must not abuse so much good- 
ness, by engrossing it. You have many other friends, and I ought 
to be contented with my turn. 

I own that I do flatter myself that my pamphlet upon colds 
may be of some use. If I can persuade people not to be afraid of 
their real friend fresh air,* and can put them more upon their 
guard against those insiduous enemies, full living and indolence, 
I imagine they may be somewhat happier and more healthy. 

You guessed rightly, but after my fellow traveller had recover- 
ed her spirits, we did not want conversation. The story of the 
Noises at Hinton she did introduce, by intimating that having by 
accident heard a part, it had been thought proper to tell her the 
whole. "I do not believe any such thing, not a word of it ; and I 
wonder that so sensible a woman as Mrs. Rickets can be in the 
least uneasy about it." I had not the smallest suspicion of any 
plot to draw the story from me ; and this declaration, of her not 
at all believing any such things, was very proper to put me off 
my guard, and induce me to talk freely on any of the circumstan- 
ces ; so that I might have fallen into the trap, if her knowing the 
whole already had not made me think it useless to mention any of 
them. I assure you she gave me no kind of trouble on the jour- 
ney, behaved in the most agreeable, womanly manner all the way, 
and was very interesting. 

I propose to set out on Tuesday next for Ireland. I wish all 
kinds of happiness to you all, being with the sincerest esteem and 
veneration for your Lordship, and much affection (if that word is 



*Dr. Franklin wrote as early as 1768 to Monsieur Dubourg on the free use of 
air, as follows : 

"You know the cold bath has long been in vogue here (London) as a tonic . 
but the shock of the cold water has always appeared to me. generally speaking, 
as too violent, and I have found it much more agreeable to my constitution to 
bathe in an another element. I mean cold air. With this view, I rise almost 
every morning and sit in my chamber without any clothes whatever, half an 
hour or an hour, owing to the season, either reading or writing. This practice 
is not in the least painful, but, on the contrary, agreeable : and if I return to 
bed afterwards, before I dress myself, as sometimes happens. I make a supple- 
ment to my night's rest of one or two hours of the most pleasant sleep that can 
be imagined I find no ill consequences whatever, resulting from it, and that 
at least it dues not injure my health, if it does not in fact, contribute much to its 
preservation. I shall, therefore, call it for the future, a bracing or tonic bath. 



A 



276 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

permissible) for Mrs. Shipley, Your most obliged humble servant, 
Bishop of St. Asaph. * B.Franklin. 



[Same to same.] 

London, Aug. 19th, 1771. 

My Lord, — By the Southampton coach I have sent your Lord- 
ship the Book of State trials, which would have been sent sooner 
but that I hoped to send the Northumberland book with it. I 
have searched and enquired among my friends for the book and 
cannot find it. I suppose I have lent, and do not just recollect to 
whom. 

I dined on Sunday last at Sir John Pringle's with Messrs Banks 
and Solander, and learned some further particulars. The people 
of Otahitee (George's Island) are civilized in a great degree, and 
live under a regular feudal government, a supreme Lord or King, 
Barons holding districts under him, but with power of making war 
on each other ; Farmholders under the Ba'rons ; and an order of 
working people, servants to the farmholders. They believe in a 
supreme God and inferior Gods, all spirits, with a celestial govern- 
ment similar to their own. They have some ceremonies of Ado- 
ration, but seldom used. They erect temples for their gods; but 
they are small and stuck upon a pole in the fields, partly to honor 
the gods and partly for their convenience to lodge in when they 
happen to come down among men ; a little temple being, they 
say, as commodious for a spirit as a large one. Their morals are 
very imperfect, as thev do not reckon chastity among the virtues, 
nor theft among the vices. They have honors and distinctions 
belonging to different ranks but these are paid to a father no lon- 
ger when he has a son born, they are afterwards paid to the son ; 
and this keeps some from marrying who are unwilling to lose 
their rank, and occasions others to kill their children that they 
may resume it. They had no idea of kissing with the lips, it was 
quite a novelty to them, though they liked it when they were 
taught it. Their affectionate and respectful salutation is bringing 
their noses near each other's mouths and snuffling up one another's 
breath. Their account of the creation is, that the great spirit first 
begot the waters, then he begot the Earth and threw it, a great 
mass, it into the waters ; then not liking to see it all in one place, 
and a great part of the waters without any of it, he fastentd a strong 
cord to it and drew it so swiftly through the waters that many oi 
the loose parts broke off from it and remain in the sea, being the 
islands they are acquainted with. They believe the great mass is 
still in being somewhere, though they know not where, and they 
asked our people if they did not come from it. They have a con- 
siderable knowledge of the stars, sail by them, and make voyages 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 277 

of three months westward among the islands. Notwithstanding all 
the advantages our people could show we had from our arts, &c, 
they were of opinion after much consideration that their condition 
was preferable to ours. 

The inhabitants of New Zealand were found to be a brave and 
sensible people, and seemed to have a fine country. The inhabi- 
tants of New Holland, seemed to our people a stupid race, for 
they would accept none of our presents. Whatever we gave 
them they would look at a while, then lay it down and walk 
away. Finding four children in a hut on one part of the coast, 
and seeing some people at a distance who were shy and would not 
be spoken with, we adorned the children with ribbons and beads 
and left with them a number 'of little trinkets and some useful 
things ; then retiring to a distance, gave opportunity to the people 
to fetch away their children, supposing the gifts might conciliate 
them. But coming afterwards to the hut we found all we had left, 
the finery we had put upon the children among the rest. We 
call this stupidity. But if we were disposed to compliment them, 
we might say, Behold a nation of Philosophers ! such as him 
whom we celebrate for saying as he went through a Fair, How 
many things there are in the world that I dont want. 

Please to present my best respects to good Mrs. Shipley. Her 
kind letter has relieved me from an uneasiness I was under lest 
by some sottise or other in my long hasty scrawl I might have 
given offense. My love to all the young ladies accompanies the 
sincere and great esteem and respect with which I am, my Lord, 
vour Lordship's most obedient and most humble servant. 

B. Franklin. 

Our journey is postponed to Saturday next. 



[From the same to same. 

London, Aug. 21, 1773. 

My Dear Lord. — Inclosed I send a Boston newspaper in 
which the sermon is advertised. The speaker of the Assembly 
of the Massachusetts, in his letter to me says, "The Bishop's sermon 
is much liked, as it discovers a catholick spirit, and sentiments 
very favorable with regard to America." Dr. C nauncey an an- 
cient dissenting Minister of Boston writes, "The Bishop of St. 
Asaph's sermon I got reprinted in 24 hours after it came to hand. 
'Tis universally received here with approbation and wonder, and 
has done much good. It sold amazingly. A second impression 
was called for in two days." 

I daily expect to hear more of it from the other colonies. I 
hope the good family all continue well and happy. 

(70) 



278 RAMBLING REM1NISCENSES. 

With sincere esteem and affectionate respect I am ever your 
Lordship's most obed't humble servant. 

Bishop of St, Asaph. B. Franklin. 

[Same to same.] 

Craven Street, March 10, 1774. 

My good Lord: — In page 26 and Leg. of the oldest of these 
pamphlets and page 64 of Leg. of the newest, your Lordship will 
find the subject of communication with settlements on the Ohio 
pretty fully handled. 

The rarity of goods brought from distant countries makes peo- 
ple willing to give such an additional price for them as more than 
compensates the charge of carriage. A gentleman assured me 
that not long since being at a Fair in Transylvania, he saw there 
a shop full of English Queen's ware, which had been carried up 
the Rhine and down the Danube. The ware is bulky, of low value 
proportioned to its bulk and hazardous to carry, and yet the price 
defrayed the expense and risque. 

I send also another pamphlet, at the end of which, page 143, is 
reprinted a little piece of mine on the differences then arising be- 
tween the countries. 

I apprehend that one view of the intended bill may be the dis 
couraging of emigration. The prospectors may suppose, that il 
titles to new land cannot be obtained in America, people will not 
go thither to obtain lands. They will however find themselves 
mistaken. The natives of America are those who settle new 
lands, removing from those they have begun to cultivate as fast as 
they have an opportunity of selling them to new comers, who are 
not so fit for the woods as themselves. And this will go on for 
people will confide that Government can never be so unjust, as to 
turn them off, and indeed it will never be done. 

But suppose such an act could be executed, what would be the 
consequence? The American gentlemen, (not at present in favor 
here) who are possessors of large tracts of land, fit for settlement, 
would then have the whole market in their own hands, and their 
estates would thereby be increased in value beyond imagination. 
Sir Francis Bernard and his associates (of whom I have the honor 
to be one) have 120,000 acres in Nova Scotia which we wish to 
have settled. The settlement on the Ohio is against us, as it 
draws the people another way. Perhaps he may move the meas 
ure for his own sake, and that of his English friends. I ought not 
to object to it, if I thought only of my own interest ; for I have 
declined my share in the Ohio purchase. But I think people 
should be left at liberty to go where they can be happiest. I and 
rav son have also some other considerable tracts, so that if such 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 279 

an act should pass, Government will do me more favour than they 
have done me injury by taking away my place. 

With greatest esteem and respect I am, my Lord, your Lord- 
ship's most obedient and most humble Servant. 

B. Franklin, 



[Same to same.] tfa1-J t 
[This letter is without date, but is supposed to have been written 
by Dr. Franklin during the autumn of 1774, and before the next 
letter dated Sep. 28th, 1774. J. L. P.] 

EXTRACT FROM KALM'S TRAVELS IN AMERICA. 

"It has been found repeatedly that these trees (Peach trees) can 
"stand the frost much better on hills than in the vallies ; inasmuch 
"that when those in a valley were killed by the frost, those on a 
"hill were not hurt at all. It is remarkable that in cold nights, all 
"the leaves to the height of seven or even of ten feet from the 
"ground have been killed by the frost, and all the top remained 
"unhurt. Further, it is observable that the cold nights which hap- 
pen in Summer never do any hurt to the high grounds, damag- 
ing only the low and moist ones." Vol. 11 page 83. 

The above extract shows that the phenomenon mentioned by 
my dear good friend is not uncommon in North America. I re- 
member to have once travelled through a valley there, on both 
sides of which the leaves on the trees were killed to a certain 
height, the line of the blast appearing very even and level as for as 
the eye could reach, all below the line being blasted, and all above 
green. I think I have heard it observed here, that frost in a dry 
night does not hurt so much as when the leaves have been wet. 
Fogs sometimes lie on low grounds, and one can see over them 
from the side of a hill. Perhaps a frost with such a fog may affect 
the trees immersed in it more than those above it. In a hilly 
country, too, though the vallies are warmest in the day time, while 
the sun shines, from the many reflections of his rays; yet, as soon 
as he is set, the contrary takes place ; the cooler air of the hills set- 
tles into the vallies, and the warmer air of the vallies ascend to the 
hills. This I have frequently observed in little excursions from 
Philadelphia in the Summer season. Riding out in the day I have 
been sweltered in the vallies, nothwithstandmg the thinness of my 
dress, and refreshed when passing over the hills. Returning in 
the evening, the same thinness of dress made a sensible of a chill- 
ing coolness in the vallies, while the air on the hills was agreeably 
warm. 

Your very kind invitation to Twyford, with the strong impres 
i have from experience of the happiness I might enjoy there, 



28o RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

in a family I so truely love, almost staggers my resolution of visit- 
ing America this Summer. But I grow exceedingly home-sick. 
I long to see my own family once more. I draw towards the con- 
clusion of life and am afraid of being prevented that pleasure. Besides 
I feel myself become of no consequence here. I find I cannot pre- 
vent nor alter measures that I see will be pernicious to us ail. But 
there, where my opinion and advice is a little more regarded, I 
imagine I may still be of some use, in diminishing or retarding the 
mischief. It is true, my country pays me well for residing here. 
But I think a mere labourer, though paid as usual for a day's 
work, would not be satisfied to turn a grindstone all day, where 
nothing was to be ground. 

Please to present my respectful compliments to good Mrs. Ship- 
ley, and all the amiable young ladies, with your valuable son, 
who, I hear by Mr. and Mrs. Jackson, is at present with you. I had 
a little of the pleasure of their company before they set out for 
Spa. 

I have not yet heard from America how the sermon was receiv- 
ed there. But expect it will have several editions in different 
places and be greatly applauded, as indeed it is here among all 
the friends of Liberty and the common rights of mankind. I 
think even the New Englanders will for once have a good opinion 
of a Bishop. 

With the sincerest esteem and most affectionate respect, I a«: 
my Lord, your much obliged and most obedient servant, 

B. Franklin. 



[Same to same.] 

London, Sept. 28, 1774. 

I received my dear friend's letter of the 8th post and should 
have written sooner but that I have been in continual expectation 
of being able to visit you. A succession of thwarting businesses has 
prevented my giving myself that pleasure hitherto. And writing 
by post is now attended with such inconvenience, that I am apt to 
postpone it. 

I am glad the conduct of my countrymen meets your approba- 
tion, who are so good a judge of what is right and prudent. 
I think I can answer for them that whatever is agreed on at the 
Congress will be executed with universal resolution, firmness and 
perseverance. There may be a few personal exceptions, but . of 
little moment. Your information is true that great orders for 
goods have been sent over by some in expectation that a new im- 
portation agreement would probably take place ; but the managers 
there apprehending that the merchants were not all to be relied on, 
have set on foot a new coiisamption assessment, among the country 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 281 

people, which since Gage's absurd proclamation against it has 
made great progress ; and this has occasioned already several 
counter orders, as the importation can answer no end if the people 
will not buy. I suppose you must have heard that some steps are 
taken to form a coalition if possible among those of our great folks 
who agree in disapproving the present measures, though they 
have not had a good understanding on other accounts. If they 
can unite, they will have greater weight in endeavouring to un- 
horse the present wild riders, and thereby prevent the ruin that 
seems to threaten our great political building by their mad man- 
agement. 

I had the great pleasure of hearing in all companies the speech 
extolled as a master piece of eloquence and wisdom. Great num- 
bers of them have been printed and dispersed over the nation: 
And I think one may see already its beginning effect. The abuse 
of America in the papers is of late much diminished, and new ad- 
vocates for her are arising daily. I send you inclosed one of the 
smaller edition. The publishers who have put their names to it, 
have as yet only delivered quantities to the subscribers, (who dis- 
tribute them gratis) being afraid of offending Cadell if they should 
advertise it and sell it at the price mentioned ; though they think 
they could sell great numbers if they had the author's leave. 

I had the honor of a long conversation lately with Lord Chat- 
ham, whose sentiments upon American affairs, I found such as I 
could wish. I hear the same of Lord Camden's. And I know 
the same of so many others, that I think if the proposals of the 
Congress should appear tolerably reasonable, a strong push may 
be made the ensuing session for the repeal of all the mischievous 
acts that have of late almost dissolved our union. I hope nothing 
will prevent your being present. It was said the Parliament would 
meet in November. But I hear now that January is intended. 

Please to present my best respects to all the good family with 
whom I long to be. I am a letter in debt to Georgiana ; which I 
will pen when I can. With the sincerest esteem and respect I am 
ever, my dear Lord, your obliged and affectionate humble servant, 

B. Franklin. 

[Same to same.] 

London, Jan. 7th, 1775. 

I find it impossible to visit my dear friends at Twyford as I 
promised myself, my time is so fully occupied by business. 

The petition from the Congress has been presented to the King 
by Lord Dartmouth to whom we delivered it for that purpose. 
The answer we received was, that his Majesty had been pleased to 
receive it very graciously, and had commanded him to tell us, "It 

(71) 



282 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

contained matters of such importance that he should as soon as 
they met Jay it before his two Houses of Parliament." We have 
been advised not to let it be printed till it has been communicated 
to Parliament as an immediate publication might be deemed dis 
respectful to the King. But I inclose a copy for your perusal. It 
will fall short of what you wish in the manner, not equalling the 
admirable remonstrances of the French Parliaments or the Cou 
des Aides; but having made some allowances for unpolished 
America, you will not, I hope, think it much amiss. When I con- 
sider that Congress, as consisting of men, fhe free, unbiased, un- 
solicited choice of the freeholders of a great country, selected from 
no other motive, than the general opinion of the wisdom and in- 
tegrity, to transact affairs of the greatest importance to their con- 
stituents, and indeed of as great consequence as any that have 
come under consideration in any great council for ages past ; and 
tnat they have gone through them with so much coolness, though 
under great .provocations to resentment ; so much firmness under 
cau-.c to apprehend danger, and so much unanimity under every 
end .-mv our to divide and sow dissentions among them ; 1 cannot 
but look upon them with great veneration. And I question 
whether I should be so proud of any honor, any King could con- 
fer upon me, as I am of that I received by only having my health 
drank by that Assembly. By the way I am well informed they 
drank the Bishop of St. Asaph in three successive bumpers; but 
it was not so mentioned in the papers, lest some other friends 
might be displeased. I have cut out of a Boston paper and in- 
close an advertisement of the speech* by which may be seen some- 
thing of the esteem in which it is held there. My best wishes attend 
the whole good family. Miss Georgiana will be so good as to 
excuse my not writing to her at present. 

With sincertst respect and affection, I am ever your Lordship's 
most obedient and most humble servant, B. Franklin. 



! 



[Same to same.] 

Philadelphia, May 15th, 1775. 
My Dear Lord — I arrived here well the 5th, after a pleasant 

*The following is the advertisement cut from the Boston paper and enclosed 
to the Bishop by Dr. Franklin: 

'••The Bishop of St. Asaph's excellent SPEECH intended to have been spoken 
on the Bill for altering the Constitution of this Government, will be published 
tomorrow in a Pamphlet, and to be fold by the Printers. It was fold in England 
for One Shilling, but the price here is no more than Six Coppers. We set it at 
this low price in order that it may be immediately purchased and read. It is (at 
the particular desire of many gentlemen,) printed in a Pamphlet, rather than 
News-Papers, that the contents of so truly valuable a performance, may be more 
effectually preserved for the perusal of future generations. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 283 

passage of six weeks. I met with a most cordial reception, I 
should say t'vc>w\ all parties, but that all parties are now extinguish- 
ed here, Britain has found means to unite us, I had not been 
here a day before I was unanimously elected by our Assembly a 
delegate to the Congress, which met the'ioth, and is now sitti 
All the governors have been instructed by the Ministry to call 
their Assemblies and propose to them Lord North's pacific plan. 
Gen. Gage called his; but before they could meet, drew the 
sword; and a war is commenced, which the youngest of us may 
not see the end of. My endeavours will be if possible to quench 
it, as I know yours will be; but the satisfaction of endeavouring to 
do good, is perhaps all we can obtain or effect. Being much 
hurried I can only add my best wishes of happiness to you and 
all the dear family, with thanks for your many kindnesses. I am 
ever, with the highest esteem and respect my Lord, your Lp's 
most obliged and obed't humble servant, B. Franklin. 

Lord Bp St. Asaph. 



[Same to same.] 

Philad'a, July 7th, 1775. 

I received with great pleasure my dear friend's very kind letter 
of April 19, as it informed me of his welfare and that of the amia- 
ble family injermyn Street. I am much obliged by the informa- 
tion of what passed in Parliament after my departure ; in return I 
will endeavor to give you a short sketch of the state of affairs here. 

I found at my arrival all America from one end of the 12 united 
Provences, to the other, busily employed in learning the use of 
arms. The attack upon the country people near Boston by the 
army had roused everybody and exasperated the whole Continent. 
The tradesmen of this city were in the field twice a day, at 5 in the 
morning and six in the afternoon, disciplining with the utmost dili- 
gence, all being volunteers. We have now three Battalions, a 
troop of Light Horse and a company of Artillery, who have made 
surprising progress. The same spirit appears every where, and 
the unanimitv is amazing. 

The day after my arrival, I was unanimously chosen by our As- 
sembly, then sitting, an additional delegate to the Congress, 
which met the next week. The numerous visits of old friends and 
the public business have since devoured all my time ; for we meet 
at nine in the morning and often sit till four. I am also upon a 
Committee of Safety appointed by the Assembly, which meets at 
six, and sits till near nine. The members attend closely without 
being bribed to it, by either salary, place or pension, or the hopes 
of any ; which I mention for your reflection on the difference, be- 
iween a new, virtuous people, who have publick spirit, and an old 



482 RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 

corrupt one, who have not so much as an idea that such a thing 
exists in nature. There has not been a dissenting voice among us 
in any Resolution for defence, and our army, which is already 
formed, will soon consist of above 20,000 men. 

You will have heard before this reaches you of the defeat of the 
Ministerial troops in their first sortie ; the several small advanta- 
ges we have since had of them, and the more considerable affair of 
the 17th, when after two severe repulses, they carry'd the unfinish- 
ed trenches of the post we had just taken on a hill near Charles- 
town. They suffered greatly, however, and I believe are convinc- 
ed by this time, that they have men to deal with, tho' unexperi- 
enced, and not yet well arm'd. In their way to this action, without 
the least necessity, they barbarously plundered and burnt a fine, 
undefended town, opposite to Boston, called Charlestown, con- 
sisting of about 400 houses, many of them elegantly built; some 
sick, aged, and decrepit, poor persons, who could not be carried 
off in time, perished in the flames. In all our wars, from our first 
settlement in America, to the present time, we never received so 
much damage from the Indian Savages, as in this one day there. 
Perhaps Ministers may think this a means of disposing us to re- 
conciliation. I feel and see everywhere the reverse. Most of the 
little property I have, consists of houses in the sea port towns, 
which I suppose may all soon be destroyed in the same way, and 
yet I think I am not half so reconcileable now as I was a month 
ago. 

The Congress will send one more petition to the King, which I 
suppose will be treated as the former was, and therefore will be 
the last; for tho' this may afford Britain one chance more of re- 
covering our affections and retaining the connection, I think she 
has neither temper nor wisdom enough to seize the golden oppor- 
tunity. When I look forward to the consequences, I see an end 
to all commerce between us ; on our sea coasts she may hold some 
fortified places as the Spaniards do on the coast of Africa, but 
can penetrate as little into the country ; a very numerous fleet, 
extending 1500 miles at an immense expense may prevent other 
nations trading with us ; but as we have or may have within our- 
selves everything necessary to the comfort of life, and generally 
import only luxuries and superfluities, her preventing our doing 
that, will in some respects contribute to our prosperity. By the 
present stoppage of our trade, we save between four and five mil- 
lions per annum, which will do something towards the expense of 
the war. What she will get by it, I must leave to be computed by 
her own political arithmeticians. These are some of my present 
ideas which I throw out to you in the freedom of friendship. Per- 
haps I am too sanguine in my opinion of our abilities for the de- 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 285 

fence of our country after we shall have given up our seaports to 
destruction, but a little time will show. 

General Gage, we understand entered into a treaty with the in- 
habitants of Boston, whom he had confined by his works, in which 
treaty it was agreed that if they delivered ther arms to the select 
men, their own magistrates, they were to be permitted to go out 
with their effects. 

As soon as they had delivered their arms, he seized them and 
cavil'd about the meaning of the word effects, which he said was 
only wearing apparel and household furniture, and not merchan- 
dize or shop goods, which he therefore detains : And the contin- 
ual injuries and insults they met with from the soldiery, made them 
glad to get out by relinquishing all that kind of property. How 
much those people have suffered, and are now suffering rather than 
submit to what they think unconstitutional acts of Parliament, is 
really amazing. Two or three letters I send you inclosed, may 
give you some, tho' a faint idea of it. Gage's perfidy has now 
made him universally detested. When I consider that all this 
mischief is done my country, by Englishmen and Protestant 
Christians, of a nation among whom I have so many personal 
friends, I am ashamed to feel any consolation in a prospect of re- 
venge ; I chuse to draw it rather from a confidence that we shall 
sooner or later obtain reparation ; I have proposed therefore to 
our people, that they keep just accounts, and never resume the 
commerce or the union, 'till satisfaction is made. If it is refused 
for 20 years, I think we shall be able to take it with interest. 

Your excellent advice was, that if we are to have a war, let it be 
carried on as between nations who had once been friends, and wish 
to be so again. In this ministerial war against us, all Europe is 
conjur'd not to sell us arms or amunition, that we may be found 
defenceless, and more easily murdered. The humane Sir W. 
Draper, who had been hospitably entertained in every one of our 
Colonies, proposes in his papers called the Traveller, to excite the 
domestic slaves, you have sold us, to cut their master's throats. 
Dr. Johnson, a Court Pensioner, in his Taxation no Tyranny, 
adopts and recommends that measure, together with another of 
hireing the Indian Savages to assassinate our Planters in the Back 
Settlements. They are the poorest and most innocent of all peo- 
ple ; and the Indian manner is to murder and scaip men, women 
and children. This book I heard applauded by Lord Sandwich, 
in Parliament, and all the ministerial people recommended it. 
Lord Dunmore and Governor Martin, have already, we are told, 
taken some steps towards carrying one part of the project into ex- 
ecution, by inciting an insurrection among the Blacks. And Gov- 
ernor Carleton, we have certain accounts, has been very, industri- 



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286 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

ous in engaging the Indians to begin their horrid work. This is 
making war like nations who never had been friends and never 
wish to be such while the world stands. You see I am warm ; and 
if a temper naturally cool and phlegmatic can, in old age, which 
often cools the warmest, be thus heated, you will judge by that of 
the general temper here, which is now little short of madness. We 
have however, as yet asked no foreign power to assist us, nor 
made any offer of our commerce to other nations for their friend- 
ship. What another year's persecution may drive us to, is yet 
uncertain. I drop this disagreeable subject ; and will take up one 
that I know must afford you and the good family, as my friends, 
some pleasure. It is the state of my own family, which I found 
in good health ; my children affectionately dutiful and attentive to 
everything that can be agreeable to me ; with three very promising 
grandsons, in whom I take great delight. So if it were not for 
our public troubles and the being absent from so many that I love 
in England, my present felicity would be as perfect, as in this 
world one could well expect it. I enjoy, however, what there is 
of it, while it lasts, mindfull at the same time that its continuance 
is like other earthly goods, uncertain. Adieu my dear friends, 
and believe me ever, with sincere and great esteem, yours most 
affectionately, B. Frankl'N. 

My respectful compliments to Mrs. Shipley. 

Your health on this side of the water is everywhere drank by 
the name of the Bishop. 

I send for your amusement a parcel of our newspapers. When 
you have perused them please to give them to Mr. Hartley, of 
Golden Square. 






[Note. — In reference to the conduct of General Gage and Dr. 
Johnson, Dr. Franklin remarks in his Papers entitled "The retort 
courteous," vol. n, page 485 of his Posthumous Works: 

"General Gage being with his army, (before the declaration of 
open war) in peaceable possession of Boston, shut its gates, and 
placed guards all around to prevent its communication with the 
country. The inhabitants were on the point of starving. The 
General, though they were evidently at his mercy, fearing that 
while they had any arms in their hands, frantic desperation might 
possibly do him some mischief, proposed to them to capitulate, 
in which he stipulated, that if they would deliver up their arms, 
they might leave the town with their family and goods. In faith 
of this agreement, they delivered their arms. But when they be- 
gan to pack up for their departure, they were informed, that by 
the word goods, the General understood only household goods, 
that is, their beds, chairs, and tables, not merchant goods ; those 



RAMBLING REMINIS CENSES. 287 

he was informed they were indebted for to the merchants of Eng- 
land, and he must secure them for the creditors. They were ac- 
cordingly all seized, to an immense value, what had been paid tot- 
not excepted. It is to be supposed, though we never heard of it, 
that this very honorable General, when he r turned home, made a 
just distribution of those goods, or their value, among the said 
creditors. But the cry nevertheless continued, These Boston peo- 
ple do not pay their debts 1 

The army having thus ruined Boston, proceeded to different 
parts of the Continent. They got possession of all the capital 
trading towns. The troops gorged themselves with plunder. They 
stopped all the trade ot Philadelphia for near a year, of Rhode 
Island longer, of New York near eight years, of Charleston in 
South Carolina, and Savannah in Georgia, I forget how long. This 
continued interruption of their commerce, ruined many merchants. 
The army also burnt to the ground the fine towns of Falmouth 
and Charlestown near Boston, New London, Fairfield, Norwalk, 
Esopus, Norfolk, the chief trading town in Virginia, besides in- 
numerable tenements and private farm houses. This wanton de- 
struction of property operated doubly to the disabling of our 
merchants, who were importers from Britain, in making their pay- 
ments, by the immoderate loss they sustained themselves, and 
also the loss suffered by their country debtors, who had bought 
of them the British goods, and who were now rendered unable to 
pay. The debts to Britain of course remained undischarged, and 
the clamor continued, These knavish Americans will not pay 211 / 

Many of the British debts, particularly in Virginia and the Car- 
olinas, aros^from the sales made of negroes in those provinces by 
the British Guinea Merchants. These, with all before in the coun- 
try, were employed when the war came on, in raising tobacco and 
rice for remittance in payment of British defcts. An order arrives 
from England, advised by one of their most celebrated moralists, 
Dr. Johnson, in his Taxation no Tyranny, to excite these slaves 
to rise, cut the throats of their purchasers, and resort to the Brit- 
ish army, where they should be rewarded with freedom. This 
was done, and the planters were thus deprived of near 30,000 n{ 
these working people. Yet the demand for those sold and unpaid 
still exists; and the cry continues against the Virginians and Car- 
olinians, they do not pay iheh debts /"] 

Philad'l, Sep. 13, 1775. 

My Dear Friend : — I write but seldom to you, because at this 

time the most innocent correspondence with me may be suspected, 

and attended with inconvenience to yourself. Our uaited wishes 

for a reconciliation of the two countries, are not I fear soon to be 



288 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

accomplished; for I hear your ministry are determined to perse- 
vere in their mad measures, and here I find the firmest determina- 
tion to resist at all hazards. The event may be doubtful, but it is 
clear to me that if the contest is only to be ended by our submis- 
sion, it will not be a short one. We have given up our commerce; 
our best ships, 34 sail left this port on the 9th instant. And in our 
minds we give up the sea coast, tho' part may be a little disputed, 
to the barberous ravages of your ships of war ; but the internal 
country we shall defend. It is a good one and fruitful. It is, with 
our liberties, worth defending, and it will itself, by its fertility ena- 
ble us to defend it. Agriculture is the great source of wealth and 
plenty. By cutting off our trade you have thrown us to the Earth, 
whence like Ant<zus we shall rise yearly with fresh strength and 
vigor. 

This will be delivered to you by Mr. Jonathan Williams, a neph- 
ew of mine, whom I left in my lodgings. Anything you see fit to 
send me, may be safely trusted to his care and direction. He is a val- 
uable young man, having, with great industry and excellent talents 
for business, a very honest and good heart. If he should stay in 
London, I beg leave to recommand him to a little of your notice. 

I am here immersed in so much business that I have scarce time 
to eat or sleep. The Winter, I promise myself, will bring with it 
some relaxation. This bustle is unsuitable to age. How happy I 
was in the sweet retirement of Twyford, where my only business 
was a little scribling in the Garden Study, and my pleasure, your 
conversation, with that of your family ! 

With sincere and great esteem and respect, I am ever, my dear 
friend, your affectionate and most obed't and hum'le Servant, 

B. Frankiin. 

Upon the third page of this letter isthe following memoranda in 
Dr. Franklin's hand writing : 

The perfidy of General Gage in breaking his capitulation with 
Boston and detaining their effects ; 

The firing of Broadsides from men of war in defenceless towns 
and villages filled with women and children; 

The burning of Charleston, wantonly, without the least reason or 
provocation ; 

The encouraging our Blacks to rise and murder their masters; 

But above all, the exciting of the Savages to fall upon our innox- 
ious outsettlers, farmers (who have no concern in, and from their 
situation can scarce have any knowledge of this dispute) especially 
when it is considered that the Indian manner of making war, is by 
surprising families in the night and killing all, without distinctions 
of age or sex ! What would be thought of it, if the Congress 
should hire an Italian Bravo to break into the house of one of your 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 289 

ministers and murder him in his bed ? All his friends would open 
in full cry against us as assassins, murderers and villia?is, and the 
walls of our Parliament House would resound with their execra- 
tions ! Of these two damnable crimes, which is the greatest ? 

These proceedings of officers of the Crown, who it is presumed, 
either act by Instruction, or know they sh^W please by such conduct, 
give. people here a horrid idea of the spirit of your Government. 



Passy near Paris, Feb. 9th, 1778. 

My very dear Lord: — I flatter myself that notwithstanding dis- 
tance, absence, and the interruption of friendly correspondence 
which the circumstances of the times occasion, you may still be 
pleased to hear (what I wish to hear of you and your truly amiable 
family) that health continues, and as much happiness as public 
calamities will permit to sensible minds. We both of us have the 
satisfaction of having join'd in endeavours to prevent these calami- 
ties ; and I know you join with me in the sincerest wishes of see- 
ing an end to them. But the time is not yet come. 

The bearer of this line is Mr. Alexander, son of an intimate and 
dear friend of mine. He is ambitious of the honor of being known 
to so good a man as the Bishop of St. Asaph. He is a young 
gentleman of very promising parts, and bears an excellent char- 
acter. I beg leave to recommend him to your Lordship's notice. 
I am sure he will endeavor to merit it. With the greatest esteem 
and respect I am ever most affectionally your Lordship's obedient 
humble servant, B. F. 



[Same to same.] 

Passy, June 10th, 1782. 

I received and read the letter from my dear and much respected 
friend with infinite pleasure. After so long a silence, and the long 
continuance of its unfortunate causes, a line from you was a prog- 
nostic of happier times approaching, when we might converse and 
communicate without danger from the malevolence of men en- 
raged by the ill success of their destracted projects. 

I long with you for the return of peace, on the general princi- 
ples of humanity. The hope of being able to pass a few more of 
my last days happily in the sweet conversations of company I 
once enjoyed at Twyford, is a particular motive that adds strength 
to the general wish, and quickens my industry to procure that 
best of blessings. After much occasion to consider the folly and 
mischiefs of a state of warfare and the little or no advantage ob- 
tained even by those nations who have conducted it with the most 
success, I have been apt to think that there has never been or ever 
will be any such thing as a good war, or a bad peace. 



(73) 



29O RAMBLING REM1NISCENSES. 

You ask if I still relish my old studies ? I relish them but I can- 
not pursue them. My time is engross'd, unhappily, with other 
concerns. I requested of the Congress last year my discharge 
from this public station, that I might enjoy a little leisure in the 
evening of a long life of business ; but it was refused me; and I 
have been obliged to drudge on a little longer. 

You are happy as your years come on in having that dear and 
most amiable family about you. Four daughters — how rich ! I 
have but one, and she necessarily detained from me at 1,000 
leagues distance. I feel the want of that tender care of me which 
might be expected from a daughter and would give the world for 
one. Your shades are all placed in a row over my fire place, so 
that I not only have you always in my mind, but constantly before 
my eyes. 

The cause of liberty and America has been greatly obliged to 
you. I hope you will live long to see that country flourish under 
its new constitution, which I am sure will give you great pleasure. 
Will you permit me to express another hope, that now your 
friends are in power, they will take the first opportunity of show- 
ing the sense they ought to have of your virtues and your merit. 

Please to make my best respects acceptable to Mrs. Shipley, 
and embrace for me tenderly all our dear children. With the 
utmost esteem, respect and veneration, I am ever my dear friend 
yours most affectionately, 

B. Franklin. 



[Same to same.] 

Passy, March 17th. 1783. 

I received with great pleasure my dear and respected friend's 
letter of the 5th inst., as it informed me of the welfare of a family 
I so much esteem and love. 

The clamor against the peace in your parliament would alarm 
me for its duration, if I were not of opinion with you, that the at- 
tack is rather against the minister. I am confident none of the 
opposition would have made a better peace for England if they 
had % been in his place ; at least I am sure that Lord Storm ont, who 
seems loudest in railing at it, is not the man that could have 
mended it. The reasons I will give you when I shall have, what 
I hope to have, the great happiness of seeing you once more, and 
conversing with you. They talk much of there being no recipro- 
city in our treaty. They think nothing then of our passing over 
in silence the atrocities committed by their troops, and demand- 
ing no satisfaction for their wanton burnings and devastations of 
our fair towns and countries. They have heretofore confest the 
w to be unjust, and nothing is plainer in reasoning than that the 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 291 

mischiefs done in an unjust war should be repaired. Can Eng- 
lishmen be so partial to themselves, as to imagine they have a 
right to plunder and destroy as much as they please, and then 
without satisfying for the injuries they have done, to have peace 
on equal terms? We were favorable and did not demand what 
justice entitled us to. We shall probably be blamed for it by our 
constituents. And I still think it would be the interest of Eng- 
land voluntarily to offer reparation of those injuries, and effect it 
as much as may be in her power. But this is an interest she will 
never see. 

Let us now forgive and forget. Let each country seek its ad- 
vancement in its own internal advantages of arts and agriculture, 
not in retarding or preventing the prosperty of the other. Amer- 
ica will, with God's blessing, become a great and happy country ; 
and England, if she has at length gained wisdom, will have gained 
something more valuable and more essential to her prosperity, 
than all she has lost ; and will still be a great and respectable na- 
tion. Her great disease at present, is the number and enormous 
salaries and emoluments of office. Avarice and ambition are 
strong passions, and separately act with great tone, on the human 
mind ; but when both are united and may be gratified in the same 
object, their violence is almost irresistible, and they hurry men 
headlong into factions and contentions destructive of all good gov- 
ernment. As long, therefore, as these great emoluments subsist, 
your Parliament will be a stormy sea and your public Counsels 
confounded by private interests. But it requires much public 
spirit and virtue to abolish them ; more, perhaps, than can now be 
found in a nation so long corrupted. 

Please to present my affectionate respects to Mrs. Shipley, and 
all my young friends, whom I long to see once more before I die. 
I hope soon to congratulate you on the marriages that I hear are 
in contemplation. Everything interests me that regards the happi- 
ness of your family ; being ever, with the sincerest esteem and 
affection, my dear Sir, your most obedient and most humble ser- 
vant, B. P^ranklin. 



[Same to same.] 

Passy, Aug. 22nd, 1784. 
Dear Friend. — When I am long without hearing from you, 
I please myself with re perusing some of your former letters. In 
your last of April 24th, '83, you mention the departure of Anna 
Maria with her husband for Bengal.* I hope you have since 
heard often of their welfare there. When you next favor me with 

*Note. Anna Maria married Mr. Jones, afterwards Sir William Jones, a 
learned Indian Judge and celebrated linguist and Oriental scholar, 



292 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

a line, please to be particular in letting me know bow they do. 
My graqdson, a good young man, (who as a son makes up to me 
my loss by the estrangement of his lather,) will have the honor of 
delivering you this line, and will bring me, I trust, good accounts 
of your health, and that of the rest of your family. I beg leave 
to recommend him to your civilitities and counsels. As to my- 
self, I am at present well and hearty, the stone excepted, which, 
however, gives me but little pain and not often, its chief inconve- 
nience being that it prevents my using a carriage on the pavement ; 
but I can take some exercise in walking, am cheerful and enjoy 
my friends as usual. God be thanked ! 

Your kind invitation to spend some time at Twyford with the 
family I love, affects me sensibly. Nothing would make me hap- 
pier. I have solicited the Congress to discharge me, but they 
have sent me another Commission, that will employ me another 
year at least ; and it seems my fate, constantly to wish lor repose, 
and never to obtain.it. 

With the greatest and most sincere esteem and respect, I am 
ever, my dear friend, yours most affectionately, B Franklin 



[Same to same.] 

Star Inn, Southampton, Aug. 1785. 

Dear Friend, I am just arrived herefrom Havre de Grace, 
not at all fatigued by my journey thither, being favored with one 
of the King's letters carried by large mules who walk very easy. 
But I cannot bear a wheel carriage or I would do myself the great 
pleasure of going to see you and the family I love at Twyford. 
I hear that my cousin William, who is coming from London to 
join us, proposed to stay a day or two on a visit to you. I write 
the inclosed note to hasten his coming hither, as we want his as- 
sistance in our preparations, and shall probably sail sooner than 
he expects. My respects and best wishes attend you and yours. 
Adieu my very dear, dear friend, and believe me ever your's most 
affectionately B. Franklin, 

My G rand-son desires to be respectfully remembered. 

[Jonathan Williams* to the Bishop of St. Asaph.] 

Philadelphia, Sep. 19th. 1785. 

My Lord: — I have already given your Lordship an account of 
our agreeable passage and safe arrival ; least that letter should 
fail, I shall repeat the substance of it. 

Our venerable friend, the Doctor, was, I think, better at sea. 
than he had been ashore ; there was but one day, in which he suf- 
fered any pain and that was not severe. There never was on the 

*Nephe\v of Dr. Franklin. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 293 

ocean, a better ship, better provided, nor better commanded. We 
were six weeks at sea and then landed on the wharf amid the ac- 
clamations of thousands of grateful people, who rejoiced to see 
their benefactor return to spend the remainder of his life among 
them ; every public mark of respect was immediately shown him, 
and in spight of his desire of retirement, the people insist unani- 
mously on being governed by him. 

Your Lordship will see by the public prints what are the gene- 
ral sentiments, and you will see nothing exaggerated. 

When I hear of another opportunity I will write a third letter; 
for Miss Shipley's last command made so strong an impression on 
my mind, that my conscience would not be at rest, if I did not 
take at 'east three chances of conveying to her so agreeable news, 
as that of the welfare and happiness of her lover. 

With my most respectful compliments to your Lady and daugh- 
ter, I have the honor to be, with the greatest respect, my Lord, 
your Lordship's most obedient and most humble servant, 

Jon. Williams. 



[Dr. Franklin to the Lord Bishop of St. Asaph.] 

Philadelphia, Feb. 24, 1786. 

Dear P'riend: — I received lately your kind letter of Nov. 
27th. My reception here, was, as you have heard, very honoura- 
ble indeed : but I was betray'd by it, and some remains of ambi- 
tion, from which I had imagined myself free, to accept the Chair 
of Government for the State of Pennsylvania, when the proper 
thing for me was repose and a private life. I hope, however, to 
be able to bear the fatigue for one year, and then to retire. 

I have much regretted our having so little opportunity for con- 
versation when we last met. You could have given me infor- 
mation and counsels that 1 wanted, but we were scarce a minute 
together without being broke in upon. I am to thank you, how- 
ever, for the pleasure I had after our parting, in reading the new 
book you gave me, which I think generally well written, and likely 
to do good. Tho' the reading time of most people is of late so 
taken up with newspapers and little periodical pamphlets, that few 
nowadays venture to attempt reading a Quarto Volume. I have 
admired to see that in the last century, a Folio, Burton on Melan- 
cholly, went thro' six editions in about twenty years. We have 
I believe more readers now, but not of such large books. 

You seem desirous of knowing what progress we make here in 
improving our Governments. We are, I think, in the right road 
of improvement, for we are making experiments. I do not op- 
pose all that seems wrong, for the multitude are more effectually 
set right by experience, than kept from going wrong by reasoning 

(74) 



294 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

with them. And I think we are daily more and more enlightened : 
So that I have no doubt of our obtaining in a few years as much 
public felicity as good government is capable of affording. Your 
newspapers are filled with fictitious accounts of anarchy and con- 
fusion, distresses and miseries we are supposed to be involved in, 
as consequences of the revolution ; and the few remaining friends 
of the old Government among us, take pains to magnify every 
little-inconvenience a change in the course of commerce may have 
occasioned. To obviate the complaints they endeavour to excite, 
was written the enclosed little piece, from which you may form a 
truer idea of our situation than your own public prints would give 
you. And I can assure you that the great body of our nation, 
find themselves happy in the change, and have not the smallest in- 
clination to return to the Domination of Britain. There could not 
be a stronger proof of the general approbation of the measures 
that promoted the change itself, than has been given by the as- 
sembly and council of the State, in the nearly unanimous choice 
for their Governor of one who had been so much concerned in 
those measures ; the assembly being themselves the unbribed 
choice of the people, and therefore may be truly supposed, of the 
same sentiments. I say nearly unanimous, because of between 70 
and 80 votes, there were only my own and one other in the nega- 
tive. 

As to my domestic circumstances, of which you kindly desire 
to hear something, they are at present as happy as I could wish 
them. I am surrounded by my offspring, a dutiful, affectionate 
daughter in my house, with six grand children, the eldest of which 
you have seen, who is now at College in the next street, finishing 
the learned part of his education ; the others promising, both for 
parts and good dispositions. What their conduct mav be when 
they grow up and enter the important scenes of life, I shall not live 
to see and I cannot foresee. I therefore enjoy among them the 
present hour, and leave the future to Providence. He that raises 
a large family, does indeed, while he lives to observe them, stand, 
as Watts says, a broader mark for sorrow ; but then he stands a 
broader mark for pleasure too. When we launch our little Fleet 
of barques into the ocean, bound to different ports, we hope for 
each a prosperous voyage ; but contrary winds, hidden shoals, 
storms and enemies, come in for a share in the disposition of events ; 
and though these occasion a mixture of disappointment, yet con- 
sidering the risque when we can make no insurance, we should 
think ourselves happy if some return with success. My son's son, 
whom you have also seen, having had a fine farm of 600 acres con- 
veyed to him by his father when he was at Southampton, has dropt 
fur the present his views of acting in the political line, and applies 



RAMBLING REMINISCENSES. 295 

himself ardently to the study and practice of agriculture. This is 
much more agreeable to me, who esteem it the most useful, the 
most independent, and therefore the noblest of employments. His 
lands are on navigable waters, communicating with the Delaware, 
and but about sixteen miles from this city. He has associated to 
himself a very skilful English farmer, lately arrived here, who is 
to instruct him in the business, and partake, for a term, of the 
profits ; so that there is a great apparent probability of their suc- 
cess. 

You will kindly expect a word or two concerning myself. My 
health and spirits continue, thanks to God, as when you saw me. 
The only complaint I then had, does not grow worse, and is tol- 
erable. I still have enjoyment in the company of my friends ; and 
being easy in my circumstances, have many reasons to like living. 
But the course of nature must soon put a period to my present 
mode of existence. This I shall submit to with, less regret, as, 
having seen during a long life, a good deal of this world, I feel a 
growing curiosity to be acquainted withsome other, and can cheer- 
fully with filial confidence resign my spirit to the conduct of that 
great and good Parent of mankind, who created it, and who has so 
graciously protected and prospered me from my birth to the pres- 
ent hour. Wherever I am. I hope always to retain the pleasing 
remembrance of your friendship, being with sincere and great es- 
teem, my dear friend, yours most affectionately, P>. Franklin. 

We all join in respects to Madame Shipley and best wishes for 
the whole amiable family. 



[Dr. Franklin to Miss Catherine Louisa Shipley.] 

Philad'a. May 2nd, 1786. 
My Dear YoUxNg Friend. — I received both your kind letters, 
that of Aug. 2nd, and that of Sep. 30th, together with the charm- 
ing purse of 13 stripes and stars, which you have so obligingly 
made for me and sent me. In return I have knit for you and send 
enclosed, the art of procuring pleasant dreams, the little piece you 
demanded of me. Accept it with my thanks both for the purse 
and our dear Georgiana's pleasing verses. I write to her by this 
opportunity, and to my inestimable friend your father. Will you 
be good enough to excuse, therefore, the shortness of this to you. 
My time is so cut to pieces with everybody's business, that I can 
neither do or say all I would. My love to all, and believe me 
ever, my dear friend, your most affectionately. B. Franklin. 



[Dr Franklin to Miss C. L. Shipley,] 

Philad'a. April 27th, 1789. 
It is only a few days since the kind letter of my dear young 



2y6 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 

friend, dated Dec. 24th, came to my hand. I had before in the 
public papers met with the affecting news that letter contained. 
That excellent man has then left us ! His departure is a loss, not 
to his family and friends only, but to his nation and to the world, 
For he was intent on doing good, had wisdom to devise the means, 
and talents to promote them. His sermon before the Society for 
propagating the Gospel, and his speech intended to be spoken, 
are proofs of his ability, as well as his humanity. Had his coun- 
sels in those pieces been attended to by the Ministers, how much 
bloodshed might have been prevented, and how much expense 
and disgrace to the nation avoided ! 

Your reflections on the constant calmness and composure at- 
tending his death, are very sensible. Such instances seem to 
show, that the good sometimes enjoy in dying a foretaste of the 
happy state they are about to enter. 

According to course of years, I should have quitted this world 
before him. I shall, however, not belong in following. I am now 
in my 84th year, and the last year has considerably enfeebled me, 
so that I hardly expect to remain another. You will then, my 
dear friend, consider this probably the last line to be received from 
me, and as a taking leave, present my best and most sincere res- 
pects to your good mother, and love to the rest of the family, to 
whom I wish all happiness ; and believe me to be while I do live,* 
your most affectionately, B, Franklin. 



Remarks on Chapter xi of the Consideration on Policy, 
Trade, &c, by Dr. Franklin. 

Suppose husbandry well understood and thoroughly practiced 
in a country, and all the lands fully cultivated. 

Those employed in the cultivation, will then raise more corn and 
other provisions, than they can consume. 

But they will want manufactures. 

Suppose each family may make all that is necessary for itself. 

Then the surplus corn must be sold and exported. 

Farms near the sea or navigable rivers may do this easily, 
But those distant will find it difficult. From some the expense of 
carriage will exceed the value of the commodity. Therefore, if 
some other means of making an advantage of it are not discover- 
ed, thecultivatior will abate of his labors and raise no more than 
he can consume in his family. 

But tho' his corn may not bear the expense of carriege to mar- 
ket, nor his flax, nor his wool, yet possibly linnen and woolen cloth 
may bear it. 

*Dr. Franklin died April 17th, 1790. 



RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 297 

Therefore, if he can draw around him working people who have 
no lands on which to subsist, and who will for the corn and other 
subsistence he can furnish them with, work up his flax and wool 
into cloth, then is his corn, also, turned into cloth, and with his flax 
and wool rendered profitable, so that it may easily be carried to 
market, and the value brought home in money. This seems the 
chief advantage in manufactures. For those working people sel- 
dom receive more than a bare subsistence for their labour ; and 
the very reason why six penny worth of flax is worth perhaps 
twenty shillings after they have wrought it into cloth, is, that they 
have during the operation consumed nineteen shillings and six 
pence worth of provisions. 

So that the value of manufactures arises out of the earth, and is 
not the creation of labour as commonly supposed. 

When a grain of corn is put into the ground it may produce ten 
grains. After defraying the expense, here is a real increase of 
wealth. Above we see that manufactures make no addition to it, 
they only change its form. So trade or the exchange of manufac- 
tures, makes no increase of wealth among mankind in general ; no 
more than the game of commerce at cards makes any increase of 
money among the company, tho' particular persons may be gain- 
ers while others are losers. But the clear produce of agriculture 
is clear additional wealth. 



(75) 



298 RAMBLING REMINISCENCES. 



APPENDIX C. 

The following are the names of the more prominent Guernsey 
men since 1650 ; 

Sir Edmund Andros, Colonial Governor of New York and Vir 
ginia, etc. 

Maj.-Gen. Sir Isaac Brock. 

Daniel de Lisle Brock, Bailiff. 

Col. Saumarez Brock, Knight of Hanover. 

Mrs. Carey Brock, Author. # 

Sir Octavius Carey. 

Sir Stafford Carey, Jurist. 

Rev. Peter Paul Dobree, Scholar. 

Dr. Hoskins, Author. 

Sir Jno. Jeremie, Governor of Sierra Leone, 

Dr. John MacCulloch, Author. 

Sir Edgar MacCulloch, Bailiff. 

Georges Metevier, Author. 

Osmond de B. Priaulx, Author. 

Maj-Gen. Le Marchant. 

Col. H. Le Mesurier. 

Admiral Lord Saumerez. 

Gen. Sir Thomas de Sausmarez, 

Gen. Sir George Smith. 

Charles de Jersey, Jurist, and Procureur du Roi. 

Henry Tupper, Jurist and Liberal Statesmen. 



FINIS. 



THE AMERICAN CRISIS. 



WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR. 



"THE AMERICAN CRISIS, 

OR PAGES FROM THE NOTE BOOK OF A (FOREIGN) STATE AGENT 

DURING THE CIVIL WAR." 

BY 

John Lewis Peyton, 

Bachelor of Law, University of Virginia, Corresponding member 

of the Virginia and Wisconsin Historical Societies, Fellow of 

the Royal Geographical Society, London, etc., etc., in two vols, 

8 vo., London, 1866, Saunders, Otley & Co., Brooke St. West. 

NOTICES OF THE PRESS. 

"Here we pause reluctantly ; the extreme interest we take in 
the political portion of Col. Peyton's most valuable and instructive 
work, has induced us to discuss somewhat at large what we may 
venture to entitle 'Sentiments proper to the present Crisis,' and 
that with reference as well to England as to America. It is not, 
however, to the statesman or historian alone that these volumes 
will be interesting. Their author has mingled largely in the best 
society on either side of the Atlantic ; public and private life in 
both hemispheres, with their leading warriors, orators, statesmen, 
artists and men of letters, have come as a matter of course under 
his notice, and are sketched ably by his graphic pen ; — he is in 
turn a Hogarth and a Watteau, as eccentricities and absurdities, 
graces and amenities are to be delineated. Nor is graver informa- 
tion wanting ; his work is replete with historical anecdotes, valua- 
ble statistics and sound and apposite reflections upon subjects of 
contemporary or social interest." — British Press. 

"We have seen no work upon the American Civil War, more 
entertaining and thoroughly readable than that by Colonel Pey- 
ton, the style of which is terse and vigorous." — London Cosmo- 
politan. 

"Some of the most interesting portions of these charming vol- 
umes contain a summary of Col. Peyton's experiences, as well in 
the political, as in the literary worlds. His sketches are graphic, and 
beyond all controversy, life-like. We commend these volumes 
cordially and conscientiously to perusal, and we err if their circu- 
lation be not extensive. Their author was, we believe, some two 
or three years ago, resident for a little while amongst us, and has 
since been for a longer season domesticated in Jersey. It is not 



(76) 



11 THE AMERICAN CRISIS. 

improbable that he may, erelong, once more be a visitor to the 
Channel Islands, and in that case we are sure that we may prom- 
ise him for ourselves, and equally confident that we may prognos- 
ticate for him from our neighbors, a very hearty welcome. What 
Sidney Smith called 'stress of politics,' has driven many an hon- 
ored exile for freedom or for conscience sake, upon our shores, 
but surely none more worthy of our esteem than this intelligent 
and gallant gentleman of whom— his enemies themselves being 
judges— the very worst that can be said must be 'Victrix causa 
Dies placuit, victa Peytoni."— Guernsey Star. 

Colonel Peyton's book is a half narrative of his reminiscences 
of the Great Civil War, or rather of his personal intercourse with 
the chief actors, both military and political, and half a description 
of his experiences in England and his impressions of English so- 
ciety. He exhibits considerable skill in blending his adverse feel- 
ing towards Jefferson Davis (whom he regards as a commonplace 
politician and not a genius at all) with the necessary amount of 
attachment for the Confederate cause. Some of the chapters which 
he devotes to his personal observations while in this country, will 
be read With interest, and portions of them with amusement. Of 
course he does not like Mr. Cobden or Mr. Bright. Of Lord 
Russell's appearance and manner he speaks with contempt which 
is not wholly unmerited, but ill-becomes a panegyrist of Mr. Al- 
exander Stephens, of whose outer man, he has given the most un- 
flattering of descriptions. But he is at all events impartial in his 
satirical judgments. When he presents what is on the whole a very 
uncomplimentary portrait of Mr. Roebuck, he is perhaps more 
true to life, but he makes a poor return for much zealous service." 
— London Daily Star . 

"This subject is unrivalled in importance to Americans, and a 
very arduous one with which to deal; the interests involved are so 
manifold, and the questions connected with it are so complicated 
that it requires a master mind to do them justice. Col. Peyton has 
taken very elevated views of all these great questions. We have 
rarely met with a writer who combines so much impressive earn- 
estness with so much sound sense and masculine depth of thought." 
— London Gazette. 

"The American Crisis is a work of great interest, written in a 
most spirited and masterly style."— Thanet Advertiser. (England.) 

"The American Crisis is a highly entertaining work, and one in 
which the reader's interest will seldom or ever flag. Many of the 
sketches are hit off with much skill and effect."— Herald. 

"The earlier portions of Colonel Peyton's work draws a lively 



THE AMERICAN CRISIS. Ill 

picture of the feelings which prevailed in the South, and especially 
in Virginia, during the first month of the war. The sanguine ad- 
vocates of Secession were full of hope and animation, predicting a 
speedy triumph for their cause, which should force Massachusetts 
itself to return all fugitive slaves, and place the prosperity of New 
England at the mercy of the Southern Confederacy. 

Colonel Peyton's second volume is devoted, for the most part, 
to life in England. He gives us particulars about Hotels and 
Lodging-houses, describes our railway management and railway 
carriages ; sketches some of our great men ; tells us about our 
dinners, our evening parties, our country houses, and our manner 
of living in them ; in point of fact, is communicative to English- 
men ; and the other, on England, for the use of Americans. But 
we can imagine many reasons which may have made it more con- 
venient to treat together the two countries which have been con- 
nected by his own experience. He is not at all a fatiguing writer 
to follow ; we may read with tolerable care what he has to tell us 
about America, and may then proceed with undiminished energy 
to glance at his remarks on a subject which, after all, has an inter- 
est for most of us — ourselves." — The Guardian. 

"Full of spirited sketches and interesting descriptions/' — The 
Month. English Magazine of the Catholics. 

"The work contains some admirable sketches of distinguished 
Southern leaders, among them, President Davis, Secretary of 
State, Hunter ; Sec'ys of Navy and War, Mallory and Benjamin ; 
Gen's Lee, Johnston, Presston, and others, and of such Federalists 
as President Lincoln, V. P. Johnson, Gen. B. F. Butler, Parson 
Brownlow, etc. They are original and striking in style, showing 
very great discrimination and acuteness." — The Standard. 

"It is curious to see with what contempt this gentleman of high 
birth and sulid position, looks down on the mushroom leaders of 
Secession. Most of these men are sketched by Colonel Peyton in 
sharp and biting acid." — Hepworth Dixon, in the London Athe- 
nceum. 

"These volumes are compiled from notes of the author, who 
was an agent in Europe from one of the late Confederate States. 
The incidents commence from the outbreak of the war and there 
are numerous authentic facts and data given, which will throw 
light upon many circumstances connected with the long struggle 
between the Northern and Southern States. The description of 
scenes visited, the reflections on social subjects and the statements 
connected with the secret history of the war, acquired by the 
author in his official capacity, are of the highest interest and im- 
portance." — The London Sunday Observer. 



IV THE AMERICAN CRISIS. 

"The American Crisis rises to the rank of a voluminous State 
paper. Colonel Peyton's work is destined, we believe, to be the text 
book for posterity, as far as regards the political questions opened 
up by this Civil war, the most gigantic conflict the world has ever 
witnessed. The author gives very spirited sketches of the prepa- 
rations for the fight, and the interest taken in them by the veterans 
of the South. Throughout he proves his sound common sense 
and perfect mastery over the difficult science of political economy. 
Colonel Peyton has told the history of the American Civil war, its 
commencement, progress, and ultimate close, with precision, and 
with considerable historic care. Be has woven with the main 
thread of his story, too, so many strands of minor interest, so ma- 
ny sketches, and so many glances at English and American do- 
mestic and country life, that each succeeding year cannot fail to 
add to its value as a photograph of its own times."- -Jersey Express. 

"The book impresses us like the animated conversation of an 
intelligent and philosophic traveler, a man of cosmopolitan tastes 
and catholic views, not writing so much as talking of that he has 
observed and very entertainingly and instructively."— The Month- 
ly Journal. 

"This sprightly, chatty, interesting volume, from the facile pen 
of Colonel Peyton, shows how an exiled Virginian is spending his 
time abroad in contributing to a better knowledge of our people 
and country among the English, while he furnishes delightful 
reading to countrymen at home. The free, easy, off-hand style of 
the volume, cannot fail to entice the reader to the end of the work, 
while it gives him glimpses "behind the scenes," which will often 
amuse, sometimes startle, and occasionally provoke him." — The 
Richmond ( Va~.) Whig. 

"In these two handsome volumes the author presents a candid, 
interesting, and valuable series of sketches of men, events, etc., at 
the commencement of the war of 1861. He enters, in the first 
chapter of his work, at considerable length into the question, not 
so much of the right of secession as of its feasibility and desirabil- 
ity at that time. Upon these points there will always exist many 
modifications of opinion even in the South, and it is only 
necessary to say here that, accepting a mission from North Caro- 
lina as State agent in the interest of the Confederacy, the author 
proceeded through the blockade of Charleston, S. C, in the C. S., 
man of war, Nashville, to England, stopping on his way at the 
Bermudas, and in London found himself thrown in familiar con- 
tact with other Southern Commissioners, and English sympathiz- 
ers of rank and influence. The reader will find the work very- 
entertaining. The views and comments of Col. Peyton are those ot a 



THE AMERICAN CRISIS. V 

liberal minded traveler, cosmopolitan in taste, with a quick eye 
for the characteristic, the humorous, and the picturesque. We 
repeat what we said in the beginning of this paper, that Col. Pey- 
ton's style is direct, lucid, unassuming, and at all times full of sim- 
plicity and ease. He observes keenly and narrates incidents and 
adventures as he describes character, with the art of the raconteur 
and succeeds in rivetting the attention." — Jno. Esten Cook in The 
Southern Review, Baltimore. 



(77) 



THE ADVENTURES OF MY GRANDFATHER 



THE ADVENTURES OF MY GRANDFATHER, 

By John Lewis Peyton, L. B., F. B. G. S., &c, 

Author of 'The American Crisis;" A Historical and Statistical 
View of the State of Illinois, etc., etc. In One Volume, demi. 
8vo. Price, 16s. 



NOTICES OF THE PRESS. 

"A very interesting and remarkable work."— Sir Bernard 
■Durfec. 

"We have rarely risen from the perusal of any work with 
greater satisfaction. It is an interesting and elegantly written 
volume."— Weymouth Paper. 

"Le livre est 'ecritde main de maitre. La biograohic et les 
laisons qui tiennent les lettres, sont d'un style parfait, et en 
somne, lelivre est des plus interessant."— Gazette de Guernsey, 

"The adventures are in themselves as fully fraught with interest 
as those of Robinson Crusoe, or the pioneers who first penetrated 
into the far West, and had to combat with the terrors of the 
Kocky mountains, or the hostilities of the red Indians His 
agreeable volume will give him an additional claim to the esteem 
which has been already, and so deservedly, accorded to his char- 
acter and talents by all classes of our society."— Guernsey Star. 

"We again heartily commend this volume to the attention of 
the reading public who will, we are sure, heartily join us in thank- 
ing its enlightened and accomplished author for the literary treat 
which he has afforded them."— British Press. 

"He has produced a very able and graphic biography. It 
possesses all the qualities necessary to become popular, and there 
is nothing to hinder the work from having an extensive run"— 
Mail and Telegraph. 

John Wilson, Publisher, 93 Great Russet Street, London, W. 
C, Lngiand. 



OVER THE ALLEGHANIES AND ACROSS THE PRAIRIES 



By the same author. 
OVER THE ALLEGHANIES AND ACROSS THE 
PRAIRIES. 
Personal Recollections of the far West, one and twen- 
ty YEARS AGO. 
Simpkin Marshall & Co., Stationers Hall Court, London, Eng- 
land, 1870, I. Vol. 8vo. 

NOTICES OF THE PRESS. 

"Colonel Peyton, who is favorably known to the British public 
by his previous works, is an intelligent and observant traveler, 
who tells well what he has seen, so that his narrative makes a vol- 
ume of very pleasant reading." — Notes and Queries, London. 

"The production of a scholar and a gentleman. We can but re- 
commend our readers to possess themselves of it. assured that 
they will find that they have secured a fund of pleasant reading." 
— London United Set vie?' Magazine.. 

"The reminiscences are very interesting and give an excellent and 
truthful idea of the North American Indians, their mode of life 
and warfare." — The Athenosum, London. 

"Colonel Peyton's work is of historic value, and we heartily com 
mend it to all." — The London Review. 

"Full of personal reminiscences of an interesting character. Some 
of the episodes are full of the romance of real life. He shows him- 
self to have been a keen observer." — Public Opinion, London. 
— "Colonel Peyton's work is agreeably written." — The Guardian, 
London. 

"His chapters are fraught with a fresher interest than we get in 
these days of railway and fast traveling." — Low's Pub is hers Cir- 
cular, London. 

"This volume written in a very lively and entertaining style has 
more claims upon readers' attention, than a glance at the title might 
lead one to suppose." — Illustrated London News. 

"As a useful and reliable companion, few can compare in inter- 
est with Colonel Peyton, whose agreeable volume we have read 
with much pleasure." — The Weekly Times, London. 

"We commend this volume of stirring stories to the lovers of 
adventure." — Lloyd's Weekly, London. 



Viii OVER THE ALLEGHANIES AND ACROSS THE PRAIRIES. 

"An exceedingly interesting volume, abounding in pleasant 
reminiscences, by the well known Colonel Peyton, son of Senator 
John Howe Peyton of Virginia. Colonel Peyton is author of two 
other very clever works well known in England, "7 he American 
Crisis," " The Adventures of My Grand- Father." To English- 
men the work will prove more interesting than fiction, and Amer- 
icms will find it a living history of their own day and generation." 
The Cosmopolitan, London. 

"A pleasant, amusing, and charming volume." — Norwood 
News, London. 

*'A sprightly, chatty, interesting volume." — Richmond ( Va.~) 
Whig. 

"An interesting contribution to the history of the recent past 
in the rapidly developing regions of the West and North West." 
— The Courier, (Georgetown, District of Columbia.) 

"Books that illustrate the rapid growth of the great empire of 
the United States are always interesting, and that is done by both 
of the volumes before us (Colonel Peyton's) and Parker Gilmore's 
"A hunters adventures in the great West." Mr. Gilmore's work, 
however, is far less valuable than Colonel Peyton's. His book is 
amusing as well as instructive, &c." — The Examiner, London. 

"Many pages might be called illustrative of Col. Peyton's genial, 
descriptive style and great native abilities." — Guernsey Cornet. 

"Col. Peyton is a most desirable traveling companion, he is 
genial and good natured, and sees the bright side of everything, 
as well as the dark, and thinks it best to make the most of the for- 
mer. * * The book is exceedingly entertaining, and the easy, 
friendly style in which it is written, will engage the attention from 
the first page to the last." — The Nezvs of the World, London. 

"In description, whether of scenery or incidents, Col. Peyton's 
pen is graphic and his narrative is characterized by an easy, nat- 
ural flowing style, combined with elegance of diction," — The Tele- 
graph, London. 

"Indeed the book whether taken up for mere amusement or 
studied for solid instruction, is one that must commend itself to all 
classes of readers." — The Guernsey Star. 

"We are very much pleased to observe that the author, if \t<A 
a Catholic, is at all events above the narrow minded prejudices of 
most Protestant writers."' — The Month, of London. 

"His book abounds in lively sketches of the rough, manly tem- 
per of the western Americans, different alike from the unhealthy 
activity of ilie .Northerners, and the comparative indolence of the 



OVER THE ALLEGHANIES AND ACROSS THE PRAIRIES. IX 

Southerners. He is not tender with their weaknesses —weaknesses 
which, in a paragraph of his preface, he shows to be really ele- 
ments of strength. 'The wonderful growth of the United States 
in their western territories,' etc., The book is of historic value. - 
The Review, London. 

"To Americans, this book is of great historical value for its rem- 
iniscences of celebrated men and newly born cities, while the gen- 
eral reader will find in its pages much new information. We have 
no doubt that an American edition would be received with great 
favor."— Canadian News. 

Hauteville House, Guernsey, 2d Jan. 1870. 

Mon Cher Colonel : — J'ai lu avec le plus vif interet votre excel- 
lent ouvrage. Vous m'exprimez, sur le primierie page, des senti- 
ments qui me tonchent vivement. Je suis votre concitoyen en 
liberte et en humanite. 

L'abolition de l'esclavage a rendu PAmerique a elle-meme; 
d'esormais il n'y a plus rii nord, ni sud ; il y-a la Grande Repub- 
lique. J'en suis comme vous. 

Recevez, Colonel, mon cordial shake (of the) hand. 

To Colonel John Lewis Peyton. Victor Hugo. 

"That these works possess unusual merits, we feel safe in assert- 
ing. One merit — it is not in our eyes a slight one — is that Col. 
Peyton everywhere writes like a gentleman. The age we live in 
has carried its 'fast' and 'slap dash' propensities into literature. 
Repose, simplicity, and that charming unreserve which charac- 
terizes the well-bred author, as it characterizes the well-bred gen- 
tleman writing for persons of culture and intelligence is his. His de- 
scriptions and comments possess great directness and picturesque- 
ness, mingled with a natural and agreeable humor ; and render 
his volumes extremely agreeable reading. * The works 

would prove highly successful, we think, if republished in Amer- 
ica." John Esten Cooke, 

(In the Southern Review.) 



(78) 



HISTORY OF AUGUSTA COUNTY 



HISTORY OF AUGUSTA COUNTY, VIRGINIA, 
By J. Lewis Peyton. 

Author of "The American Crisis," "Over the Alleghanies," "A 
Statistical View of the State of Illinois," etc., etc. 



Extracts from some of the notices of the press, etc. . 

From the Lynchburg (Va.) Daily News. 

"It is a work of immense labor and research and embodies 
many facts and documents of great value to the future historian 
of Virginia. Written in an easy, flowing, scholarly style, it every 
where indicates the high cultivation of its distinguished author. 
He may well be proud of his work, and trust it to carry his name 
and fame down to a remote posterity." 

From the Norfolk Virginian. 

"This is an able record of the great county which once em- 
braced the States of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. It is character- 
ized by the most careful and intelligent research, and possesses 
great literary and historical value. Colonel Peyton has done 
himself much honor, and his State much service in the production 
of this valuable work." 

From the Richmond (Va.) State. 

"This is an invaluable addition to Virginia historical literature. 
The field was fruitful, and the distinguished author has made 
exceptionally good use of it. The work bears evidence of- inde- 
fatigable research, but the tedium of a purely historical narrative 
is relieved by the introduction of a great deal of folk-lore, which 
is presented in a very entertaining style. We trust this work is 
an earnest of farther historical investigation on the part of Colonel 

Peyton." 

From the Virginian. 

"The laborious research which has been bestowed upon it, the 
lucid and graphic style of the composition, the tragic events de- 
tailed of border warfare, and the vast fund of historical informa- 
tion it contains, will command for the book a warm reception 
from the public." 

From the Saturday Review, London. England, 

"It is an able and elaborate work. It is, of course, in great part 
a history of Virginia, especially in her earlier position as a British 



HISTORY OF AUGUSTA COUNTY. XI 

Colony ; but contains, also, many geographical, historical and bi- 
ographical details of purely local interest. That part of the nar- 
rative which relates to the civil war deserves a special word of 
commendation, as illustrating forcibly both the thorough loyalty to 
the Confederacy of the men who protested most earnestly against 
secession and the cruelties perpetrated by Sheridan and the other 
federal commanders, Northern sympathizers would do well to 
study at least one such work as Colonel Peyton's before they 
again refer to the treatment of the southern rebels as an example 
of democratic lenity. 1 ' 

From the Atlantic Monthly, Hoston, Mass. 
•'The History of Augusta County, Va., by Col. J. Lewis Peyton, 
is a substantial county history, in which is gathered much local 
material. Many curious details are preserved in it, and the work 
will take its olace as one of the storehouses for the future histo- 
rian." 

From the Staunton Vindicator. 

"It is one of the most popular as it is one of the most readable 
works of the day. : ' 

From the Rockbridge Enterprise. 

"Colonel Peyton's previous works had well prepared him for 
this one— works which have given him an English as well as an 
American reputation. In point of polish and elegance of style, of 
fullness and minuteness of detail, and in glowing interest, it ranks 
with the best books of this country. It is a sound, instructive his- 
tory, with the charm of one of the Indian romances of Fenimore 
Cooper. Every public and private library in the State should 

have a copy." 

From the Augusta Democrat. 

"Whiie the author modestly calls it a history of the county, it 
has no small claims to be called a 'History of the State,' so care- 
fully has he traced all the great events of the early and later days 
of the Republic with which Augusta had any connection," 
From the Farmville (Va.) Journal. 

"Colonel Peyton, the author, is the son of the Hon. John Howe 
Peyton, one of Virginia's most eminent lawyers, and is a man of 
fine literary taste and extensive scholarly attainments, a practised, 
forcible and elegant writer. These qualifications embodied with 
an ardent affection for his native county and a laudable feeling- of 
ancestral pride, bein^ a descendant of the Lewis family so 
greatly distinguished in the early history of Virginia, make him 
eminently fitted for the task he has undertaken and so admirably 
accomplished." 



X11 HISTORY OF AUGUSTA COUNTY. 

From the Alleghany (Pa.)Tribune. 

Sl r0m C0l0nd Pe y ton ' s acknowledged ability and learning the 
book must prove a valuable edition to the history of Virginia " 
From the I^nchburg Virginian. 
"Colonel J. L. Peyton's History of Augusta is a work of great 
interest and value, especially to the people of Virginia. It cot 
tains the history of Angnsta from its first settlement by Europeans 
down to the present time-a county once extending from the 
Blue Ridge to the Mississippi. It deals with the Indian tribes, their 

finguLhed sonsT' "* SketCheS ° f Au S ustas m °* **■ 

From the Philadelphia Press. 
"It is a valuable history of Augusta county, but there is much 
in it to interest and instruct the general reader." 
From the Richmond Dispatch. 

for'^nn 3 a , n | nterestin g book, and gives not only a history of the 
formation of Augusta county, but all sorts of valuable information 
concerning it. It is an essential contribution to Virgmia's history 
and is characterized by careful research and fullness of detail . 
From the New York Publishers' Weekly 

"The work will be found full of interest and valuable information." 
From the Highland Recorder. 

"This is a complete history of the great county of Auo- ust a and 
abounds in valuable information not to be found in any other work 
Colonel Peyton's sty e is incisive, clear and vigorousjand the work 
written with great minuteness of detail." 

From the Los Angelos Herald. 
^ Th fi £ Io ™ n ? na . rra tjve will deeply interest the general reader 
and will be fascinating m the extreme to every Virginian Their 
Wood has flowed m the veins of many Califormans^among hen 

From the Greenbrier Independent 

'The 'History of Augusta County' is deeply interesting and 
ought to have a wide circulation." cresting, and 

From the Virginias. 
''Colonel Peyton combines the qualifications of the laborious 
student and the finished scholar. A native of the county a de 
scendant of the heroic founder, Col. John Lewis an ardent stnrW 
and lover of local annals, experienced as an author a'd t rai n^ by 
extensive travels to observe men and manners, Colonel Peyton rl 
pecu iar y fitted for the task of writing the history of this ^ d 



HISTORY OF AUGUSTA COUNTY. Xlll 

From the Staunton Spectator. 

"In point of historic information, conveyed in clear, graceful and 
classic language, it is one of the most valuable and readable works 
of the times. The distinguished author has been imbued with the 
laudable and noble purpose of embodying in recorded form the 
historical and legendary learning he has amassed. The work will 
captivate old and young. It should be a text book in the schools 
and colleges of the State." 

From the Valley Virginian. 

"It abounds in glowing descriptions of nature, profound 
thoughts and lofty sentiments, the style everywhere being charac- 
terized by warmth and animation. This excellent work, with Col. 
Peyton's previous contributions to our literature, justly entitle him 
to take rank with the great Virginians who have conferred honor 
on their native land by their splendid and commanding talents.'' 
From the Watchman, Richmond. 

"It is a book of rare interest from the distinguished Virginian, 
Colonel J. Lewis Peyton, and contains a fund of historical, geo- 
graphical and biographical information." 

From the Richmond Whig. 

The took displays great ability, laborious research and is writ- 
ten in a vigorous and elegant style." 

From the Industrial South, Richmond. 

"It is a work of wide spread interest and permanent historic 
value." 

From the Christian Observer, [Louisville.] 

"The work is of special interest, and is a valuable addition to the 
history of Virginia." 

Judge R. W. Hughes, United States District Judge ; says : "I 
have read your history of Augusta with deep interest. It contains 
a great deal not elsewhere to be found, and you have entitle:! your- 
self to the public gratitude by rescuing from oblivion and embody- 
ing in enduring form historical treasures which ought not to have 
been left to perish." 

Hon, Robert W. Withers, late United States Senator, says : 
"I have read your a! e and elaborate work with deep interest. It 
will take its place among the standard histories of the country." 

Prof. George F. Holmes, of the University of Virginia, says : 
"It is an able and exhaustive record of the history of the coun- 

ty." • 

Prof. J. B. Minor, of the University of Virginia, says : "It is 
a most able and interesting work upon your county — a county 



XIV HISTORY OF AUGUSTA COUNTY. 

famous for the important part it took in the early history of the 
State, for its superior population and in the past hundred years 
for its great and virtuous lawyers. The work displays great in- 
dustry and acuteness." 

Prof. Schele de Vere, University of Virginia, says: "I have 
delayed acknowledging the receipt of your 'History of Augusta 
County,' that I might read it before doing so. Its perusal has af- 
forded me much pleasure and instruction. The interest of the 
narrative is absorbing. I congratulate you on your success. It is 
a model work of its kind." 

Rev. Moncure D. Conway, of London, England, says : "It 
is written with great care and is a most interesting and valuable 
work." 

Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, of Boston, Mass., says ; "I 
thank you warmly for the opportunity you have given me of read- 
ing your really valuable history of Augusta county." 

John Esten Cooke, says: "You have written what seems to 
me not only a most interesting, but also a most valuable book I 
have recently been re-reading your excellent 'American Crisis,' 
and think it your most attractive work. You should employ your 
leisure, I think, in adding to these life-like sketches, which I think 
you have the art to make more interesting than any other author 
of the time." 

Dr. Francis Galton, L. L. D., of London. England, author 
of Hereditary Genius, says : "There seems much in the book oi 
interest. You say, p. 307, in respect to the Preston family, "that 
it is not improbable there are hundreds of grand and great grand 
children who will sustain the character of this great American 
family for brains, bravery and beauty.' Why not work out the 
family to show first, 2nd and 3rd ?" &c, &c. 

"Had I possessed the volume in time, I would have used parts 
of its investigations in my vol. I. of American Literature. The 
town meeting, the starting point of civilization, was a good but not 
perfect thing; and so, it seems to me, the manor house you so 
eloquently describe, was a good but not a perfect thing. North- 
erners cannot comprehend the strength and the meaning of Vir- 
ginia's noble history until they study the causes of the develop- 
ment of her families."— /Vo/. Chas. F. Richardson, writing to the 
author. 

"Such county histories are of very high value now, and in the 
future will be well nigh priceless, * * to all who love their 



HISTORY OF AUGUSTA COUNTY XV 

country. Virginia is the nurse of heroes." — Theodore W. Dwight, 
Pres't. of Columbia College Law School, N. Y. 

"I assure you that I have read your history of Augusta Co. Va., 

with much pleasure and profit. I have always had a fondness for 

local history of that sort, for in them we get a fineness of detail, 

and a local coloring that are lost in more pretentious books." — H. 

W. Grady, Editor of Atlanta Constitution. 

"It is a most interesting and admirably executed work, and 
apart from its historical worth, can hardly fail to have a consider- 
able influence on both sides of the Atlantic in the chain which 
binds together the branches of the English-speaking raca." — 
Lloyd Sanders, of London, English author. 

"You have laid the county of Augusta, and the entire State un- 
der great obligations, and fixed your name upon the annals of his- 
tory. I congratulate you upon your success, and hope it may 
stimulate to further exertions in the same line." — Col. 7hos. L. 
Presto?i, of Charlottesville. 

The distinguished author has received similar complimentary let- 
ters from scores of statesmen, literary men, etc., in this country and 
Europe, among whom may be mentioned President Cleveland, Hon. 
T. F. Bayard, Hon. Geo. Bancroft, late Minister to Prussia, Edgar 
Fawcett, novelist, &c, Prof. T. A. Lounsbury, of Yale, Prof. 
Young, of Princeton, Prof. Swift, of Rochester, N, Y., Prof. Gil- 
man, of John Hopkins University, Prof. Chas. Manly, of Furman's 
University, S. C, The Head Master of Victoria College, Jersey, 
Sir Edgar MacCulloch, Bailiff of Guernsey, Eugene Defosse, 
Paris, Sig Nicolini, Pisa.Italy.and others too numerous to mention. 
— [Sam'l. M. Yost & Son, Publishers, Staunton, Va.] 



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